Close



Page 348 of 411 FirstFirst ... 248298338346347348349350358398 ... LastLast
Results 3,471 to 3,480 of 4110
  1. #3471
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    360
    I feel really dumb today......

    Been using those shoddy USB card-readers for loading things onto SD card for the printer.
    Totally forgot that an old WMS pc thats been in my closet for years has an awesome Sony multi-card reader.

    Was digging around for old RAM for a buddy....somehow I recalled there was DDR sticks in that rig, but not a card-reader lol.

  2. #3472
    Technician
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    80
    So, I'm printing a Voronoi Skull (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:518748) for upcoming Halloween decorations, and I am stringing like crazy.

    I'm used to hearing "temperature" and "retraction". The problem is, retraction numbers are absolute and I have no idea if I should be going incrementally by .1mm, or 1mm or 10mm.

    And are there any other practical suggestions for minimizing stringing? Anyone have a good test file that can run quickly and help determine what to fix to improve stringing?

  3. #3473
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    KS
    Posts
    907
    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    What filament? Retraction doesn't always fix stringing. 1.4 to 1.6 should be good.

    Post pics of the stringing too. If it isn't too bad sometimes it is easier to just melt them in post processing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Merijeek View Post
    So, I'm printing a Voronoi Skull (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:518748) for upcoming Halloween decorations, and I am stringing like crazy.

    I'm used to hearing "temperature" and "retraction". The problem is, retraction numbers are absolute and I have no idea if I should be going incrementally by .1mm, or 1mm or 10mm.

    And are there any other practical suggestions for minimizing stringing? Anyone have a good test file that can run quickly and help determine what to fix to improve stringing?

  4. #3474
    Technician
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    80
    This is Hatchbox Orange PLA, since it's what I had the most of. No, not exactly the best color for a skull.


    This picture was done at a retraction of 1.5 and a temperature of 215c.
    Last edited by Merijeek; 10-05-2016 at 06:38 PM.

  5. #3475
    Engineer
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    523
    Quote Originally Posted by Merijeek View Post
    This is Hatchbox Orange PLA, since it's what I had the most of. No, not exactly the best color for a skull.


    This picture was done at a retraction of 1.5 and a temperature of 215c.
    Stringing is also often related to temperature. As 215 is a bit high for most PLA, you might drop it to 200-205 to see if that improves things.

    You might also check out the S3D support page:
    https://www.simplify3d.com/support/p...ging-or-oozing
    Last edited by DaveB; 10-05-2016 at 08:24 PM.

  6. #3476
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    360
    Stringing is not really that big a deal. Sometimes ya just gotta live with a bit if everything else is looking good.

    Strings are also about the most easy printing defect to remove post-print. Go to Harbor Freight, or Northern tools (or comparable discount tool store) and get adjustable heat gun for $10-15. Heat the print and just wipe away all the strings with a shop rag.

    And like Dave said, you may want to try and dial in the nozzle temp a bit. 215c is a bit hot for PLA. Most run it just over 200c. I use 190-200c for PLA myself.

  7. #3477
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    902
    I need to print a piece that is 170 by 170. It will not be very tall so that is not an issue. Has anyone tried a slightly larger piece of glass or other method to extend the bed for special circumstances? this would only be for occasional use!
    I am thinking for limited use I may go to the hardware store and just get a piece cut. It will be printed in PLA so temp isn't to bad.

  8. #3478
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    KS
    Posts
    907
    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    Quote Originally Posted by wirlybird View Post
    I need to print a piece that is 170 by 170. It will not be very tall so that is not an issue. Has anyone tried a slightly larger piece of glass or other method to extend the bed for special circumstances? this would only be for occasional use!
    I am thinking for limited use I may go to the hardware store and just get a piece cut. It will be printed in PLA so temp isn't to bad.
    I'm not sure if there is enough travel for that, it would be very close to tripping the Y switch or hitting the front. 160 might be do able. You might have to split and glue that one.

  9. #3479
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    902
    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    I'm not sure if there is enough travel for that, it would be very close to tripping the Y switch or hitting the front. 160 might be do able. You might have to split and glue that one.
    I haven't been able to open the file yet to get the exact dimensions but they told me 170X160. I'll have to measure the machine when I get home and see what I can do.

    I figured for a one shot deal I might be able to get a chunk of window glass or something thin so heat moves faster and cut it to size.

    Since it will be PLA and the part is about 10mm thick heat (heated bed) may not be a big issue.

  10. #3480
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    902
    Anyone read up on this yet? Looks interesting.

    http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printe...l-upgrade.html

Page 348 of 411 FirstFirst ... 248298338346347348349350358398 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •