# Specific 3D Printers, Scanners, & Hardware > RepRap Format Printer Forum > MakerFarm Forum >  i3v 12" build log

## sniffle

So got in my giant box o stuff today :-)

Considering that i was working around a 20 month old.  I managed to get through the y bed completed.  I realize its not much but overall not bad considering the circumstances.  He wants to help so bad he just know what i am asking for when i ask for it... :-D

Quick pic the parts are back in the box and out of reasonable reach from him.  Hoping to get a couple more parts together tomorrow after work.

After the general assembly (before extrusions are placed)i am thinking i am going to clear the individual pieces... Or i i will pull it apart in late spring/early summer and paint it properly.  Time will tell.

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## AbuMaia

If you decide to paint it, do it before assembly, even before you clean out the holes of the scrap wood. If you get too much paint in the holes, it can make assembly more difficult. I learned the hard way on the i3. When I upgraded to i3v, I left the wood as untouched as possible until after it was painted.

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## sniffle

A little late then... I dont have a warm enough place to paint and not doing it in the house and im not waiting for it to warm up :-P I have ideas for getting around that problem later without needing to drill out the holes after the fact.

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## danrodz

I too am thinking of doing some paint or stain in the spring. It is far too cold for painting now in western NY and there is no way I'm waiting that long!

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## sniffle

Painters tape and q-tips for the holes should do the trick in the spring

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## pichuete

hi guys .i just got my i3v 12" this friday and during the build i have noticed that one of the stepper motor (Z-axis in my case) can`t be moved by hand, even with force... this is my first printer so i dont know if this is normal or i just got a bad motor .

ill appreciate any help 

thanks

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## beerdart

Welcome to the Board.
When you say cant move is that with power on or with the motor powered off.  If power off it should move.

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## pichuete

> Welcome to the Board.
> When you say cant move is that with power on or with the motor powered off.  If power off it should move.


without power . i haven't got to  the electronics yet .

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## sniffle

So build update of sorts. 

I have been working on the build for the last 2 nights, after working 12's.  I am down to electronics and extruder.  Probably a few hours tomorrow will get it finished if i can get the kids to leave me alone :-P  no pictures been too focussed on getting ti built while the kids were away and too tired to think about it after the fact :-)

I'll hopefully get it's new home cleaned up and it placed this evening with a pic or two. :-)


I will say that when putting together the large "deluxe" display that the holes really didn't line up at all, and the housing doesnt take have cutouts for the solder pins.  for me at least there is slight stress on the board due to the 16mm bolts not being quite long enough as well.  I think my first design improvement for the printer will be fixing that.

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## razer1141

> So build update of sorts. 
> 
> I have been working on the build for the last 2 nights, after working 12's. I am down to electronics and extruder. Probably a few hours tomorrow will get it finished if i can get the kids to leave me alone :-P no pictures been too focussed on getting ti built while the kids were away and too tired to think about it after the fact :-)
> 
> I'll hopefully get it's new home cleaned up and it placed this evening with a pic or two. :-)
> 
> 
> I will say that when putting together the large "deluxe" display that the holes really didn't line up at all, and the housing doesnt take have cutouts for the solder pins. for me at least there is slight stress on the board due to the 16mm bolts not being quite long enough as well. I think my first design improvement for the printer will be fixing that.


I ran into the same issue with the LCD adapter over the weekend. I ended having to enlarge a couple of holes on the white controller board just to get the bolts to fit through. I also used some of the longer bolts as I thought there was too much stress on the board as well.

Not sure if you gotten this far or not, but another issue I had was with mounting the Rambo and the heat bed relay. The edge wooden plate that the rambo board mounts on, once mounted to the frame, comes right next to the holes to mount the relay. It was so close that the edge pcb of the relay would hit the bottom lip of the rambo's wooden frame. I took a look at the build video up close and noticed the bottom edge of my wooden plate was shaped differently compared to the one in the video. I didn't want to cut the wooden frame as I already had it painted so I created some spacers and used those to mount the relay. I would be interested to know if you found a better way to handle this.

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## sniffle

Havent gotten there yet.  Ill report back when i get there

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## sniffle

So fi ished the printer up today for the most part havent run any filament through it yet still have a little work to do.

For some reason im only getting backlight on the display.  With no text even after i recompiled and uploaded the firmware and i have to figure out why the board isnt powering up without the usb connected as after calibration and config i plan to mostly use this stand alone with the sd card and abl.

As to the problem of the heat bed relay and the rambo mount.  I have it to at the moment i just have the rambo mou t losely fit in place.  Depending on material needed to be removed i may shave the relay pcb down instead of the rambo mount as i can shave it off faster and easier than the wood.  If that would eat i to the mount holes ill just remove a combo of both to make sure there wont be any accidental shorts from the rambo board touching the relay.


Now off to buy glass and some more bolts so that i can ensure that the mount isnt the issue.

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## sniffle

Pics to come a little later when i get off my phone

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## printbus

> For some reason im only getting backlight on the display.  With no text even after i recompiled and uploaded the firmware and i have to figure out why the board isnt powering up without the usb connected as after calibration and config i plan to mostly use this stand alone with the sd card and abl.


Does the graphic display on the 12-inch connect to RAMBO through two ribbon cables like on RAMPS? If so, make sure you haven't swapped them.  And if you had a RAMPS setup, I'd say the power issue sounds like a 12V connection to RAMPS is missing.  The 5V electronics will power from USB when ever it is there, otherwise get power from a regulator off the 12V input to the board.  RAMBO should be the same...

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## sniffle

There us a jumper i believe to supply the 5v from the power supply instead of usb.  Gonna check that out.

And yes it uses the same connector as the ramps board i will double check them

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## printbus

> There us a jumper i believe to supply the 5v from the power supply instead of usb.  Gonna check that out.
> 
> And yes it uses the same connector as the ramps board i will double check them


Yeah, I see the jumper for power selection now on the RAMBO schematic.  I had the prior understanding that RAMBO was pretty much an exact copy of the MEGA2560 + RAMPS + stepper drivers, but that's not true to the lower details I guess.  I'd prefer the jumper - the automatic power select built into MEGA2560 board can be a pain when you want to shut the printer off while the printer is still connected to a computer.

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## sniffle

yeah i found the jumper so that part is working now as i want.  still troubleshooting the display.  i don't have anywhere to sit my laptop within reach of the 3ft cable they send.  gonna power down double check and inspect my soldering on the adapter.  and try swapping the cables even though i have them placeed properly according to reprapelectro manual for the 1.1b board.

I figured i should go to the source of the board in the US :-)

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## sniffle

and yep they were backwards because makerfarm has you install the board upside down :-)

working now though... so on to calibrating it :-)

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## razer1141

I had an issue with the graphic display as well. I tried swapping the cable back and forth a couple of times and it didn't do anything for me. I ended up flashing the firmware as well and after that it worked for me. Reading the build guide led me to believe the firmware was already flashed to the board, but maybe this is not the case. Or at least the firmware loaded doesn't play well with our lcd.

If I remember correctly, there isn't much you can shave off before getting to the mounting holes, but there is about a 1/4" lip on the wooden plate that extends below the rambo board. Like I said, I used 2 spacers on the relay (on the bottom bolts) that were the same thickness as the wooden plate so the upper edge of my relay rests on the wooden plate. With both the rambo and the relay on the same plane, there is about 1/8" gab in between them, so as long as everything was mounted snugly, I don't think you would encounter an accidental short.


layout.jpg

In the image, the wooden plate to the right is what is displayed in the video and looks like it would solve the issue. I may remove my plate at some point and remove that small strip of wood along the bottom so I don't have to use those spacers anymore.

I started printing the test cube and it got about 50% of the way done when it stopped feeding plastic. The extruder gear was moving, but no filament was coming out. I pulled out the filament and hobbed bolt wore down the side of the filament. I assume this means I have a clog in the Hexagon hotend so I'll have to figure out what I need to do to fix it.

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## WhiskeyTango

My i3v-12" should be shipping out today, hopefully I'll have it by week's end.  Interesting to read about everyone's build experience here and in other threads in this forum.  This will be my second 3D-printer kit, looking forward to having a second machine, and one that will print in more than just PLA.  I have already planned to paint and upgrade it while building, using my first printer to manufacture the improvements "on the fly" (simple stuff to start off with - stand-offs for the boards, perhaps new side pieces for the LCD screen and a custom cable-carrier that I've already designed for my first printer).  Thanks to everyone for sharing their thoughts and ideas here!

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## gmay3

> ... perhaps new side pieces for the LCD screen ...


I have these modeled in google sketchup already for the rear mounted spool holder I've been working on. If they would be any help to you just let me know!

*EDIT*
These are the LCD parts for the 8 inch, basic LCD. I'm unsure if they are compatible with the 12 inch.

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## WhiskeyTango

> I have these modeled in google sketchup already for the rear mounted spool holder I've been working on. If they would be any help to you just let me know!
> 
> *EDIT*
> These are the LCD parts for the 8 inch, basic LCD. I'm unsure if they are compatible with the 12 inch.


Thank you Gmay3, I may take you up on your offer. And no worries if your  parts don't fit for the screen supplied with the 12" model - I'm pretty adept at solid modeling with ProE/Creo2.  Though as of this  morning I haven't heard back from Colin/Makerfarm that my order has  been sent - hopefully I'll get an email soon with a tracking number and  and estimated delivery date.  Since I am also doing a radical custom  redesign on my first printer my Makerfarm build won't be a quick affair,  it may be a while before I get to the actual LCD install part of the  i3v.  But hey, it's always great to have options and I appreciate  anyone's help!

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## gmay3

Cool sounds good, I also have the STLs which would probably be more useful to you with ProE/Creo! 

I hope your printer arrives before the holidays, otherwise it may come down your chimney which might crack a part or two.  :Wink:

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## sniffle

They arent it uses the full graphics display thats at least gouble the height

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## WhiskeyTango

> Cool sounds good, I also have the STLs which would probably be more useful to you with ProE/Creo! 
> 
> I hope your printer arrives before the holidays, otherwise it may come down your chimney which might crack a part or two.


Thank Gmay2, and since I have a sealed gas fireplace I certainly hope there is no "holiday delivery"!  :Big Grin:

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## pichuete

*LCD Display* 
i had the same issue with the LCD Display during the build,  the frame holes didn't align well with the display so i had to enlarge it in order to fit and put some washers . 

*Y Iddler.*

Testing the Y bed movement i noticed that the belt tends to rub in the wood mount even though i spent some time trying to get my belt as aligned as possible . my Fix was suggested by Printbus in his Build Thread . i add an additional washer .

*Micro Adjustable Z Endstop
*
the screw that is use to adjust the Z height. is interfering  with the bottom right  mounting screw on the X iddler mount base. i haven't come with a solution to that yet . if i put it farther right it doesn't contact the Z endstop .

*PronterFace Issue

*So by mistake i soldered one of the pins of the LCD adapter Backwards . i tried to desolder the pins (which was very hard to do due to the amount of pins and size) with no success . so for the moment the only way to test my printer is via pronterface until i get a new adapter. 

Im having 2 issues. 

Home position for Each Axis

when i "click" any of the Axis home buttom . the motors only move a little like 3mm and it stops , it does not go all the way until they hit the endstop . i checked my endstop connection and with the M119 command and everything is working "properly".

PronterFace temp error shoting down printer

when i connect the board to pronteface im getting this error.

Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered !
Error printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)
[ERROR] Error printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)

I proceed to check if my thermistor where working right . im getting temperatures for both thermistor in the Temperature Graph  connected on EX0 and Bed Slots . also i noticed that pronterface does not give me this error if it detects temperatures on EX0 and EX1 by moving one of the thermistors to the second extruder Slot . 

Ill apreciate any help to solves this issues . i will like to do at least some test if is posible until i get my LCD adaptor.


sorry for my english  :Smile:

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## WhiskeyTango

Sorry to hear about the Pronterface issues, Pichuete.  I'm not familiar with that software - I'm planning on [trying to] install Repetier-Host/Slic3r on my i3v when I get it...hopefully that won't open up a new can of worms though.  I've actually had a lot of good results from R-H/Slic3r on my Printrbot Simple over the past year.  With luck that software will run on a Rambo board as well... (If anyone out there has done this I'd like to learn about your experience...)

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## TopJimmyCooks

Mintemp- as a safety measure, the Marlin firmware shuts down the printer if the hotend thermistor reads Zero (0) degrees.  It assumes the thermistor has failed and shuts the power down, to avoid a runaway heating issue.  

Your thermistor is not working right, and since it's reading zero its probably not wired/connected right.  when you turn the printer on and poll the temperature in pronterface, it should show room temperature for both bed and hotend, 18 to 24 degrees or so.

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## razer1141

> *LCD Display* 
> i had the same issue with the LCD Display during the build,  the frame holes didn't align well with the display so i had to enlarge it in order to fit and put some washers . 
> 
> *Y Iddler.*
> 
> Testing the Y bed movement i noticed that the belt tends to rub in the wood mount even though i spent some time trying to get my belt as aligned as possible . my Fix was suggested by Printbus in his Build Thread . i add an additional washer .
> 
> *Micro Adjustable Z Endstop
> *
> ...



Initially, when I was setting up my printer I wasn't getting anything on the LCD, so I tried using pronterface as well. I was also getting the same errors. I ended up solving my screen issue and my pronterface issue by updating the firmware and using the one listed in the build guide. I'm not sure what firmware is on the rambo when it ships, but I'm pretty sure it's not the right one for this printer. I downloaded Arduino software directly from their website and got the firmware for the build guide.

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## pichuete

> Mintemp- as a safety measure, the Marlin firmware shuts down the printer if the hotend thermistor reads Zero (0) degrees.  It assumes the thermistor has failed and shuts the power down, to avoid a runaway heating issue.  
> 
> Your thermistor is not working right, and since it's reading zero its probably not wired/connected right.  when you turn the printer on and poll the temperature in pronterface, it should show room temperature for both bed and hotend, 18 to 24 degrees or so.


I'm getting temperature readings on ex0 and bed.  Apparently pronterface is trying to get a temperature reading for ex1(which I don't have a second extruder)  when I connect the thermistor from the bed to the ex1 slot the error goes away.  

So my question is how do I set pronterface or firmware to only work with ex0?

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## razer1141

> My i3v-12" should be shipping out today, hopefully I'll have it by week's end.  Interesting to read about everyone's build experience here and in other threads in this forum.  This will be my second 3D-printer kit, looking forward to having a second machine, and one that will print in more than just PLA.  I have already planned to paint and upgrade it while building, using my first printer to manufacture the improvements "on the fly" (simple stuff to start off with - stand-offs for the boards, perhaps new side pieces for the LCD screen and a custom cable-carrier that I've already designed for my first printer).  Thanks to everyone for sharing their thoughts and ideas here!


I don't care much for the Graphical LCD screen mount included in the kit. It gets the job done, but I would rather be able to access the SD card slot from the side like on the basic LCD screen instead of having to reach behind the Graphical LCD and find the slot.


pichuete,

Are you using the firmware the was on the board, or did you flash the one listed in the build guide?

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## pichuete

I'm currently using the stock firmware.  I'll update it when I get home and report back.  Thanks for the advice.

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## sniffle

i've dropped my sdcard like 6 times because of access to the card being so restricted...

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## razer1141

> i've dropped my sdcard like 6 times because of access to the card being so restricted...


Yeah, had the same issue. I'm thinking if I get slightly longer LCD cables (the ones included were a pretty tight fit to begin with). I can print a new LCD mount that has the screen against the left side bracket that way the card can be accessed from the side like on the other screens.

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## gmay3

Yikes, I didn't think the SD card location could get worse but apparently it has! 

Another thing to think about is getting a Raspberry Pi and running an Octoprint server. You can send files through your internet browser through wifi to the raspberry pi's sd card and then the pi just hooks in to the usb port of your ramps board. It's one of the best and most plug and play upgrades you can make on your printer! You could likely buy everything you need for the same price of longer LCD cables and you time of upgrading the mounts.

I hated having to pop that sd card in and out every time I needed to make a change and I haven't done it since. I'm actually running mine with the LCD detached right now!

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## sniffle

Yeah thats a soon to be implemented upgrade for me.

I went straight for the geared heart just to show off to my wife :-D 

But after this im going to swap to abs get another cold end printed as well as the abl stuff.

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## sniffle

btw does anyone have a suggestion for an extruder version i should print.... there are several to choose from.  I do want a wades style direct drive like whats on it.  just curious if anyone has a specific design they think is better than others.

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## sniffle

as before now that i have a chance... pics incoming :-)

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## sniffle



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## pichuete

men this is driving me crazy ...... im trying to update my firmware and im getting an error i can not even compile (error compiling ) i have the following

board arduino Mega 2560 or mega ADK
Port 7 

please help!!
 :Confused:

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## sniffle

Do a google search rambo 1.1b user manual.

There are a couple things in there that arent mentioned in any videos that colin has published.


Also are you sure that is the port that your printer is hooked up to?

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## pichuete

thanks for the advice this has been a big learning curve for me . my ports and everything was good . but in order to upload the firmware i had to install  u8glib on the arduino library .

no everything is working even my LCD  :Big Grin:

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## razer1141

> men this is driving me crazy ...... im trying to update my firmware and im getting an error i can not even compile (error compiling ) i have the following
> 
> board arduino Mega 2560 or mega ADK
> Port 7 
> 
> please help!!


I'm not sure what issue you would be having, I didn't have any issues once I downloaded the required u8glib library.

Did you install the driver for the board? If not, here's the link. http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMBo_USBdriver.zip


Disclaimer: I am not familiar with Arduino by any means, so please try to verify this information first before doing anything.

Doing some quick research, it appears when Arduino compiles a program its compiled to a hex file. You can then use a program called Xloader to upload this program directly to your Arduino without having to compile the source. If this is correct, then I will share my hex file with you.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7n...ew?usp=sharing Here is a link to a hex file I created.

Here is a program that I found that is able to upload Hex files directly to the arduino. http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/arduino-xloader

Make sure the rambo driver is installed and that you have the correct com port selected in the program. The com port can be found in device manager and there is information on how to do this in the build guide.

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## printbus

Has anyone contacted Colin on these firmware issues? Yes, there have been problems in the past with 10-inch printers shipping with 8-inch firmware.  One would have thought similar issues wouldn't occur with the new RAMBO board, but... Although their boards may not ship with the right firmware, and the build guide and videos don't always point to the right firmware download, Colin has always been able to provide people with a link to the right firmware source for their printer - having to search out additional libraries shouldn't be necessary.  And the Arduino IDE already comes with an uploader called Avrdude.   Uploading is built into the IDE. As long as you have Arduino configured for the right type of AVR processor board, you shouldn't need to go off looking for a third party upload tool. At least I'd be surprised at having to.

EDIT: Well, yeah, getting the USB driver set up is almost always a problem spot. I'll grant you that.

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## razer1141

> Has anyone contacted Colin on these firmware issues? Yes, there have been problems in the past with 10-inch printers shipping with 8-inch firmware.  One would have thought similar issues wouldn't occur with the new RAMBO board, but... Although their boards may not ship with the right firmware, and the build guide and videos don't always point to the right firmware download, Colin has always been able to provide people with a link to the right firmware source for their printer - having to search out additional libraries shouldn't be necessary.  And the Arduino IDE already comes with an uploader called Avrdude.   Uploading is built into the IDE. As long as you have Arduino configured for the right type of AVR processor board, you shouldn't need to go off looking for a third party upload tool. At least I'd be surprised at having to.
> 
> EDIT: Well, yeah, getting the USB driver set up is almost always a problem spot. I'll grant you that.



I emailed him today about it. He said that the build guide specifically states the ramps board comes preflashed, but doesn't mention either way about the rambo. He confirmed the rambo needs to be flashed before use. I responded with the manual looks like it originally included ramps only and the others were added aftwards and that it leads one to assume it comes preflashed. Since only the rambo is sold in the kit, I think some more information regarding the rambo should be added. The link to the firmware is in the build guide though. I think it should clearly state the rambo needs to be flashed and add a link to the arduino software. The only mention of Arduino software is in the ramps zip file and its so old(0023 I think?), it doesn't even support the INO file included in the rambo source.

Also, thinks for the heads up regarding the arduino software. I really have no knowledge of arduino and other than flashing my rambo, have never touched it in my life.

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## sniffle

yeah, i was about to say the rambo board comes sealed in its own box that has oviously never been touched when you open it.

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## razer1141

yeah, it was sealed in the box, but I figured he ordered bulk and possibly had his source preflash the required firmware.

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## sniffle

honestly i think he has a laser cutter and orders in batches weekly.  it seems like a fairly small operation but he has great customer support which is why i bought the makerfarm version.

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## razer1141

> honestly i think he has a laser cutter and orders in batches weekly.  it seems like a fairly small operation but he has great customer support which is why i bought the makerfarm version.


Yeah, that's the same reason why I bought mine. Do you happen to have a close up picture of the rambo/relay issue? I was telling Colin about the issue and he has requested photos showing the issue so he can get it fixed, but I won't be able to get back to my printer until tomorrow evening.

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## sniffle

I'll take some pics a little later... i'm currently 6hrs-7hrs into a print, once it's done i'll tighten theings up as much as i can and take pics  it's just the bottom edge of the rembo board holder needs to be about 1/8th of an inch shorter or the relay needs to be an 1/8th inch lower

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## WhiskeyTango

Just curious...since there has been a decent discussion of firmware in this thread:

Once  I get the box'o'stuff for building my 12" i3v, I plan on running my  printer with Repetier-Host/Slic3r since these have worked so well with  my first printer.  I've done some looking on the web and haven't found  any definite instructions on getting this software running on a Rambo  board.  Specifically I'd like to see a procedure for loading whatever  drivers, other support programs, etc. in a step-by-step, easy to follow  sequence that will help someone who isn't familiar with the process to  get up and running from scratch (for example - me, once I get the  previously mentioned "box'o'stuff").  Has anyone any information or a  process/procedure for doing this?  I'm not sure but it looks like  Repetier-Host has or needs it's own firmware?  BTW, if there is a thread already existing on this here, let me know - I did a search for "Rambo Repetier" and all I got was this thread and the one complaining about the EZ3D printer...

And  if a procedure doesn't exist for this specifically, I'll be happy to  write one and share it here once I figure it out.  But anyone who can  help with info on how to do this, I'd like to hear from you!  BTW, I  just got the email from Colin that my printer has been shipped, should  be delivered Saturday!

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## printbus

> ... I plan on running my  printer with Repetier-Host/Slic3r since these have worked so well with  my first printer.  I've done some looking on the web and haven't found  any definite instructions on getting this software running on a Rambo  board.  Specifically I'd like to see a procedure for loading whatever  drivers, other support programs, etc. in a step-by-step, easy to follow  sequence that will help someone who isn't familiar with the process to  get up and running from scratch (for example - me, once I get the  previously mentioned "box'o'stuff").  Has anyone any information or a  process/procedure for doing this?  I'm not sure but it looks like  Repetier-Host has or needs it's own firmware?


Not necessarily the exact answer you are looking for, but...  Repetier-Host doesn't require use of special firmware.  Repetier does have a firmware build of their own, but you don't have to use it and no one has posted here about loading their i3v with it.  Once you have the USB interface set up, you should be able to run Pronterface, Repetier-Host, or other host application without issue. The download for Repetier-Host installs everything you need (except maybe the USB driver - I don't recall on that), including both Cura Engine and Slic3r slicers.  FWIW, the RAMBO board is just an integrated, single board approach to what is often a separate MEGA2560 processor board, RAMPS expander board, and four stepper motor driver boards.  So, RAMBO firmware is basically a variation of RAMPS firmware.  There may be other differences, but one difference is that RAMBO uses a digital/firmware adjustment (probably using gcodes) for stepper motor current limit (these are trimpot adjustments on RAMPS).  The MakerFarm i3v-12 goes a step farther, configuring Marlin for the graphic LCD panel.  There is support for countless variations built into the Marlin source code - these are just a couple.  By manipulating the contents of the Marlin configuration.h and configuration_adv.h files, you can build firmware for just about any kind of printer running any kind of electronics.  

As far as configuring Repetier-Host, I've focused on Cura Engine as my slicer but a recent post in my build thread (see link in my signature) walks through pretty much every RH-Cura setting as I currently have them. Use or ignore as you see fit.  I should be adding a similar listing for the RH-Slic3r settings to that post in the next couple of days.

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## WhiskeyTango

> Not necessarily the exact answer you are looking for, but...  Repetier-Host doesn't require use of special firmware.  Repetier does have a firmware build of their own, but you don't have to use it and no one has posted here about loading their i3v with it.  Once you have the USB interface set up, you should be able to run Pronterface, Repetier-Host, or other host application without issue. The download for Repetier-Host installs everything you need (except maybe the USB driver - I don't recall on that), including both Cura Engine and Slic3r slicers.  FWIW, the RAMBO board is just an integrated, single board approach to what is often a separate MEGA2560 processor board, RAMPS expander board, and four stepper motor driver boards.  So, RAMBO firmware is basically a variation of RAMPS firmware.  There may be other differences, but one difference is that RAMBO uses a digital/firmware adjustment (probably using gcodes) for stepper motor current limit (these are trimpot adjustments on RAMPS).  The MakerFarm i3v-12 goes a step farther, configuring Marlin for the graphic LCD panel.  There is support for countless variations built into the Marlin source code - these are just a couple.  By manipulating the contents of the Marlin configuration.h and configuration_adv.h files, you can build firmware for just about any kind of printer running any kind of electronics.  
> 
> As far as configuring Repetier-Host, I've focused on Cura Engine as my slicer but a recent post in my build thread (see link in my signature) walks through pretty much every RH-Cura setting as I currently have them. Use or ignore as you see fit.  I should be adding a similar listing for the RH-Slic3r settings to that post in the next couple of days.


Thank you Printbus, I'll definitely be looking into your link and reading up on more info relating to the Rambo board and getting it up to par for what I want to do once I get to that point.  BTW, just an FYI - my experience with 3D printers is limited to just the Printrbot Simple, although I've been using/modifying/upgrading it for the past year now.  I didn't have to do anything with firmware to the stock Printrboard that it came with, just configure R-H for the Simple's print volume and other related PLA set-up parameters and then set up Slic3r, so the whole firmware thing is rather new to me.  I've never had any problems with R-H/Slic3r  which is why I'd like to continue using it with the Makerfarm i3v.  Now that my printer is on its way I want to get prepared for the build.  I appreciate your help!

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## printbus

> ...I didn't have to do anything with firmware to the stock Printrboard that it came with, just configure R-H for the Simple's print volume and other related PLA set-up parameters and then set up Slic3r...


Once the printer is up and running, that should be all you need to do for the i3v-12 too.  It's unfortunate that MakerFarm isn't shipping the RAMBO preflashed with turnkey firmware.  That can be a significant undertaking by itself for someone new to Arduino and Marlin.

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## WhiskeyTango

> The MakerFarm i3v-12 goes a step farther, configuring Marlin for the graphic LCD panel.  There is support for countless variations built into the Marlin source code - these are just a couple.  By manipulating the contents of the Marlin configuration.h and configuration_adv.h files, you can build firmware for just about any kind of printer running any kind of electronics.


One more thing - does the Rambo board as supplied with the printer already come with firmware pre-loaded so all we have to do is load R-H/Slic3r?  I thought the manual for the Rambo said we need to load the firmware before the printer software, but maybe I mis-read something.  Or is there an additional firmware file needed for running the LCD that is already loaded or needs to be loaded? Thanks for your help!

(and sorry for all the questions)

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## printbus

BTW - the general opinion on Arduino IDE versions is that 1.0.5 is where it's at, not the latest IDE available from Arduino. I think there have been a few people using the latest IDE (and any updated math libraries etc. that go with it), but the general recommendation is to stick with 1.0.5 for Marlin for now as a stable, proven version to work with.

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## printbus

> One more thing - does the Rambo board as supplied with the printer already come with firmware pre-loaded so all we have to do is load R-H/Slic3r?  I thought the manual for the Rambo said we need to load the firmware before the printer software, but maybe I mis-read something.  Or is there an additional firmware file needed for running the LCD that is already loaded or needs to be loaded? Thanks for your help!


I can't keep all these simultaneous builds and build threads straight.  This thread, and possibly others, are suggesting the MakerFarm RAMBO board does not come with the proper firmware preloaded. Issues with the LCD interface support is the specific issue with the preloaded firmware.  What this means is that you have to obtain the proper source files for Marlin (Colin would provide you a link to these; it's been said the link in the i3v-12 build guide gets you to the right source files).  The files should have the configuration parameters already pre-set (right board type, right display type, print bed dimensions right, etc.). You have to load these Marlin source files into the Arduino IDE (Integrated Development Environment) that you've also downloaded and compile ('verify' in the Arduino language) them, using numerous library type functions included in Arduino libraries for the AVR processor used on the MEGA2560/RAMBO type of board.  Then, also through the Arduino IDE, you flash (or 'upload') this into the AVR processor on the printer.  Wanting to run RH or Pronterface does not require any additional changes to the firmware installed on the printer.

EDIT: The as-delivered firmware in RAMBO might be configured for no smart panel (ie, no LCD and no SD card), or may be configured for the more common 20x4 character LCD.  Or maybe there's no firmware installed at all.  I'm not sure anyone has figured that out. It's possible that the as-shipped RAMBO will work fine with RH or Pronterface, and that the display and/or SD reader might be all that doesn't work.

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## WhiskeyTango

No worries, I'll go back through this and some of the other threads I've read.  I've also downloaded the manual for the Rambo and I'll probably be contacting Colin as well  - I'll figure it out  :Confused:  . Thank you for your help, and I may post a little guide for newbies like me when it's all said and done...

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## razer1141

> No worries, I'll go back through this and some of the other threads I've read.  I've also downloaded the manual for the Rambo and I'll probably be contacting Colin as well  - I'll figure it out  . Thank you for your help, and I may post a little guide for newbies like me when it's all said and done...


The rambo firmware needs to be flashed. The link to the source is in the build log as well as the windows driver. Download the Arduino 1.x software directly from arduino's website. You will need to download the u8glib library to compile.

In the build log there is a tutorial on how to flash the ramps boards with firmware. The process is basically the same, but you need to use the firmware for the rambo instead of the ramps and use the newer Arduino software. There's also information on how to install the rambo driver and get the com port in the guide.

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## sniffle

I skipped ahead a little to write this... Ill go back and read/edit if needed.

Google reprapelectro rambo 1.1b user manual 

it has a full writeup on flashing firmware to the board.  Including setting the board as rambo in the dropdown in the arduino software.

edit: http://reprapelectro.com/wp-content/...ser-Manual.pdf

supposedly if the board isnt registered as rambo in the arduino software the screen may not work.  I followed the user manual just in case...
/end edit:

The board does not come with firmware preinstalled.

On my phone atm or i would just post a link.

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## WhiskeyTango

Thanks Sniffle and Razer, I'm looking forward to building and setting up my Makerfarm system  :Cool:

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## sniffle

I need to make a 12" build notes post for things that need a heads up.

Rambo needing flashed

The interference of the rambo holder and the relay

The downloaded version of slic3r from makerfarm is setup for the 8" dimensions need to be adjusted to utilize entire bed

I think thats mostly it for now

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## razer1141

> I need to make a 12" build notes post for things that need a heads up.
> 
> Rambo needing flashed
> 
> The interference of the rambo holder and the relay
> 
> The downloaded version of slic3r from makerfarm is setup for the 8" dimensions need to be adjusted to utilize entire bed
> 
> I think thats mostly it for now


Maybe start another thread for the i3v 12" FAQ or something. Since there are two or three others currently in the process of building their, they may be able to contribute additional information as well.



I grabbed a quick picture of mine this morning. My cable sleeving just came in and I plan to put it on this evening.
20141218_072713.jpg

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## sniffle

Yeah ive been too busy playing... Today is the day of wire tidying and pic taking before i get frustrated with abs again... 

Pla is easy abs is finicky.  I got 1 semi successful abs print... The abl dtuff from zennmaster.  I need more clips for the bed and a feeler gauge time to rub to the store :- D

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## gmay3

I've been finding that the .127 mm feeler gauge is a good place to start for ABS printing at .2mm layer height.

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## sniffle

I also have to figure out abl on the rambo board...

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## pichuete

has anyone have measure the overall current consumption for the I3v 12" . i have been having some power issues . i bought a 12v "30a" power supply from amazon one of those "Cheap" Chinese LED Power supply . and it only lasted 1 print. after that i put my RC charger power supply which is a 350w 12v and the power outlets where melting after 2 hours of use .  im using 12 AWG high grade RC wires . so i guess that's not the issue .

i also have seen that most of the larger Printers use 24v as a power source . i was wondering if is possible to power this printer with that voltage and reduce the Amperage and replace the 12v Relay for the bed . according to the Rambo user manual the board can be powered from 10 - 24v but i dont know if extruder heater and bed can be compromised .

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## printbus

> has anyone have measure the overall current consumption for the I3v 12" ....
> 
> i also have seen that most of the larger Printers use 24v as a power source . i was wondering if is possible to power this printer with that voltage and reduce the Amperage and replace the 12v Relay for the bed . according to the Rambo user manual the board can be powered from 10 - 24v but i dont know if extruder heater and bed can be compromised .


Since I like to over analyze things, I've been waiting on the power consumption numbers too. By area, the 12-inch heat bed should consume 24-26 amps, factoring for the larger area against the stated power consumption of a 10-inch heat bed.  The MakerFarm web site, however, says the consumption for the 12-inch heater is 20+ amps.  That's a pretty useless spec.  The hot end heater, motors, and electronics are probably in the 3 to 5a range.  

The 12V heat bed is a 12V heat bed. There MIGHT be a way to modify it otherwise. IIRC, my 8-inch heat bed was broken down into four areas, with a separate trace zig-zagging in each area.  They were powered in parallel if I recall. It should be possible to cut open the traces interconnecting the zig zag blocks and rewire block pairs so they are in series and can then run at 24V.  You'd be in a world of hurt however if the heat beds are laid out with an odd number of trace blocks. If the RAMBO won't let you keep the cartridge heater on 12V, you'd have to replace it with a 24V one. The heaters aren't that expensive.

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## sniffle

btw printbus, takes between 3-5 min for my 12" bed to hit 110 degrees.  using 12AWG wire and 1 layer of cardboard underneath


really annoyed with abl setup right now... it makes logical sense to me...

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## razer1141

Sniffle, are you having any issues with your prints? I've noticed my prints aren't as tall as they should be, but the other dimensions are pretty close to correct.

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## printbus

> ...I've noticed my prints aren't as tall as they should be, but the other dimensions are pretty close to correct.


Are they compressed or cut off?  If compressed, what values are you using for DEFAULT_STEPS_PER_UNIT in configuration.h? Another thing to check would be to make sure the tubing shaft couplers on the Z motors aren't slipping. 




> btw printbus, takes between 3-5 min for my 12" bed to hit 110 degrees.  using 12AWG wire and 1 layer of cardboard underneath





> i bought a 12v "30a" power supply from amazon one of those "Cheap" Chinese LED Power supply . and it only lasted 1 print. after that i put my RC charger power supply which is a 350w 12v and the power outlets where melting after 2 hours of use .


FWIW, both of these posts suggest the heat bed on the 12-inch printer draws a LOT of current.  More than just the linear increase expected due to the increase in heater area.

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## bstag

Interesting I have not had this issue with my heat bed yet. The power supply I use http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Which i had used in the past for LED lighting display that had a couple thousand leds and is UL certified. The fan on the power supply has not kicked in yet. I am also using a aluminum bed which has a higher thermal conductivity  then glass but the close to the same heat capacity as glass.

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## razer1141

> Are they compressed or cut off?  If compressed, what values are you using for DEFAULT_STEPS_PER_UNIT in configuration.h? Another thing to check would be to make sure the tubing shaft couplers on the Z motors aren't slipping. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FWIW, both of these posts suggest the heat bed on the 12-inch printer draws a LOT of current.  More than just the linear increase expected due to the increase in heater area.


Thanks for the information. The prints are compressed. I'm not sure what the default steps per unit is set to. I know I haven't changed it, but I will check and see what is set. I'll try to mark the tubing/rail/shaft with a sharpie and see if it is slipping. I did order a couple of metal couplers a while back, but the ones I wanted I could only find shipped from amazon, so I think I have a week or two before I see those.

As for the PSU/Heatbed, I also ordered a 12v 30a LED power supply for ~$25 from amazon and Ihaven't had any issues. I'm using corkboard as insulation and it does take a couple of minutes to warm up, but I haven't timed it. I will try to remember to do that. I used Fork Crimp terminals on the wires attached to the PSU if that makes a difference.

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## pichuete

I'm pretty sure I got a bad PSU to start with.  From the beginning it sounded like it was going to explode.  I will measure the overall current when my new PSU arrive.  I'm guessing that the consumption is pretty close to 30 amps when the bed and extruder are on.  

I bought a 12v 75 amps server PSU to be in the safe side.  Most of the big 3d printers use 24v..

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