# Specific 3D Printers, Scanners, & Hardware > CTC 3D Printers >  Filament refusing to feed.

## dlps73

Situation - using the Utilities/Change Filament/Load Right Menu and waiting until the correct temperature -  as I start pushing the filament in it appears to start feeding and then it just "skips" this is accompanied by a rapid tick, tick, tick noise and the filament won't progress any further.
I've tried on the second head and it does the same.
The printer has had about 20 hours use.

Cheers.........Doug

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## bigo93

1) You have a clog. The ticking sound is the motor unable to extrude the filament.

2) Temperature is not high enough for the filament you are using. It's not melting so the motor will not extrude, which again makes the ticking sound.
Again the thermisters arent accurate, It might say 200 degrees on your printer, but the real temperature may be 180. You need to find the correct temps for each roll of filament you use.
When loading the filament, the extruder heats up to it's preset value. So increase the preset to increase the temp used for loading and unloading.

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## dlps73

Thanks Bigo93 - I think I'll go with the clog version as it's been printing fine...

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## Alibert

I have had this countless times with my replicator clones.

The cause is most likely that there is still a piece of previous filament in the heatbreak/heatthroat under the extruder drive gear. When you feeed new filament, it doesn't push the old filament through but slips to the side where it can not enter the heatbreak. As the old filament is under the gear, you can not remove it by unloading the filament as the gear can not grip it.

You will need to remove the fan from the front to solve this (two front screws). After removing the fan you will most likely see a piece fo filament sticking out the heatthroat. Heat up the nozzle and either push it down with a needle or so, or pull it out with tweezers. Aftter it has been removed remount the fan and feed the new filament as usual.

Be aware that the fan will start to spin when the nozzle reaches 50C, so make sure that nothing will hit the blades and break one. Also be aware that there are two nylon spacers behind the cooling block, don't let them drop and roll into a hole to the electronics compartment. Guess how I found those two things out....   :Wink:

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## EagleSeven

> Situation - using the Utilities/Change Filament/Load Right Menu and waiting until the correct temperature -  as I start pushing the filament in it appears to start feeding and then it just "skips" this is accompanied by a rapid tick, tick, tick noise and the filament won't progress any further.
> I've tried on the second head and it does the same.
> The printer has had about 20 hours use.
> 
> Cheers.........Doug


As others have said,
the guide-tubes (throat) may be full of un-melted filament.
I've had to use a drill-bit and/or a brass-rod 
to clean out filament that broke close to top of tube,
since it would not melt enough to be able to push it thru with new filament and was stuck.

First try pushing in a brass-rod with pliers, before disassemble though,
you can apply more force with hand than motor-drive can.
May be able to push it down enough to start melting.

Note: brass-rod should be just large enough to fit in guide-tube without sticking,
use only brass-rod so it will not damage drive-gear on motor

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## 3dex ltd

Yes as EagleSeven stated, a drill bit or pliers are you best option if you have a small piece of filament in the top of the nozzle. Can be a right pain

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## dlps73

Jam.jpg


Thanks for all the replies - I've taken the fan off and the path is clear. Whatever the obstruction is it's about 24mm from the nozzle upwards  (after the drive gear).
I'll try and find something thin to dislodge it - I've ordered a Cleaning Kit from eBay in the interim.....

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## Alibert

OK, it is halfway down the heatthroat. There should be a PTFE tube there, so a blockage there is surprising for a machine with only 20 hours unless the temperature was too high for the PTFE tube and it deformed (or the chinese forgot to put one in?).

If you heat up the nozzle to 200C and use pliers to hold the heat block (carefull not to grip the heating element or thermistor), you can then unscrew the brass nozzle with a wrench without twisting the heat block. With the nozzle removed (it is hot, drop it on your heatbed), push filament through from the top. Most likely the PTFE with the blockage will pop out so you can inspect it. If there is no PTFE tube there you will need to get some (3mm OD and 2mm ID). If the PTFE tubed is deformed, replace it. If you can not remove the blockage, then replace the PTFE tube. ...... and order extra tube and extra nozzles from china so you have them handy when needed (you will need them in the future). It only costs a few dollars but you will need to wait a few weeks for them to arrive.

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## EagleSeven

> There should be a PTFE tube there, so a blockage there is surprising for a machine with only 20 hours unless the temperature was too high for the PTFE tube and it deformed (or the chinese forgot to put one in?).


The PTFE insert type tube is Not needed !
It causes more problems than it helps !
( a Stainless-steel tube with No insert works best, for the Longest time )
The inside diameter of the steel only tube is about the same as the ID of inserts.

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## Alibert

> The PTFE insert type tube is Not needed !
> It causes more problems than it helps !
> ( a Stainless-steel tube with No insert works best, for the Longest time )


Nevertheless most (all?) replicator clones  I know of are delivered with ptfe liners. If you have that kind of heat throat, the inner diameter is too large to use it without a ptfe liner regardless of the ptfe/all-metal debate....

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## EagleSeven

> Nevertheless most (all?) replicator clones  I know of are delivered with ptfe liners. If you have that kind of heat throat, the inner diameter is too large to use it without a ptfe liner regardless of the ptfe/all-metal debate....


Our CTC-Bizer did Not come with PTFE type tube.
No, the inside diameter of the steel only tube is the same as the inside-diameter of inserts.

Try 'em, you will Like 'em !  :Cool:

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## cjalas

High Lubricity Thermal Barrier Tube for MK7/MK8 Extruder (M6 threaded)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZMY4W76


This is what you want for your extruder throats.

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## dlps73

Unfortunately - doesn't deliver to Australia.....

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## Alibert

> Our CTC-Bizer did Not come with PTFE type tube.
> No, the inside diameter of the steel only tube is the same as the inside-diameter of inserts.


I stand corrected. This is the first time I heard of a rep clone with all-metal hotend. Kudo's to CTC.

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## dlps73

Thank you for all the replies and advice. I finally heated the extruder up to 240C and managed to melt/push the obstruction through - thanks again....

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## M2ATG

> 1) You have a clog. The ticking sound is the motor unable to extrude the filament.
> 
> 2) Temperature is not high enough for the filament you are using. It's not melting so the motor will not extrude, which again makes the ticking sound.
> Again the thermisters arent accurate, It might say 200 degrees on your printer, but the real temperature may be 180. You need to find the correct temps for each roll of filament you use.
> When loading the filament, the extruder heats up to it's preset value. So increase the preset to increase the temp used for loading and unloading.



Hello guys.

Reading the thread you seem to have cured your problem. Any insight into any thing in particular as a fix?

I have tried to remove filament with the extruder apart, also tried excessive heat (Pre-Heat@250) in order to melt whatever is blocking the nozzle.

Not really sure how to proceed...     dissemble and clean tubes / 0.4mm drill bits / Threaded feeder tubes / possible replacement parts.

Found UZTHEDENTIST on youtube with mods and fixes(ideas above).

This is my 2nd printer from CTC (printchainstore) that took them 5 weeks to replace. I have started proceedings on ebay, upon arrival of the 2nd printer the PSU Fan bearings sound warn and whine while trying to spin up, not sure if the fans have a cut off if there is too much resistance on them that they stop. Now the extruder failing to function. Has been a right game so far.

see my links to youtube videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rkMYvZ1Iuvc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtkMNSur50k
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akfPGWbRdW8

Any help is appreciated.
M2ATG

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## bigo93

Are you sure that fan noise is from the PSU?

There is a small fan next to the motherboard, it is supposed to pass air over the heatsink in front of it, but apparently it does almost nothing to help.

So you can actually remove that fan.
Also because it is mounted to a short plank of frame, it can vibrate a lot!
I think this sound is actually that fan vibrating that frame.
Remove the fan or unplug it and see if the sound goes away.

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## EagleSeven

> Are you sure that fan noise is from the PSU?
> 
> There is a small fan next to the motherboard, it is supposed to pass air over the heatsink in front of it, but apparently it does almost nothing to help.
> 
> So you can actually remove that fan.
> Also because it is mounted to a short plank of frame, it can vibrate a lot!
> I think this sound is actually that fan vibrating that frame.
> Remove the fan or unplug it and see if the sound goes away.


Yes, I removed the very loud 40mm fan at Mobo and replaced it with a 120mm fan,
hung below the Mobo. 
(used plastic tie-wraps to suspend there, since not much there to make a solid attachment,
after removing the plywood cover-plate, that is not needed)
Very quiet that way and larger fan cools Mobo better !

I also printed 4 shock-mount Feet, that raises printer up from table about 2 inches ,
which  gives more space, for that 120mm replacement fan, under printer.
(file for Feet can be found at thingiverse.com)

Note: also added a removable Dust-Filter on Fan,
which the 40mm fan did Not have

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## bigo93

These feet?  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:916254

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## Geoff

> Hello guys.
> 
> Reading the thread you seem to have cured your problem. Any insight into any thing in particular as a fix?
> 
> I have tried to remove filament with the extruder apart, also tried excessive heat (Pre-Heat@250) in order to melt whatever is blocking the nozzle.
> 
> Not really sure how to proceed...     dissemble and clean tubes / 0.4mm drill bits / Threaded feeder tubes / possible replacement parts.
> 
> Found UZTHEDENTIST on youtube with mods and fixes(ideas above).
> ...


I bought my printer off printchainstore too, it seems they are selling second hand, refurbished and ex-faulty printers possibly - so far nearly everyone who has received one has had these problems. I had a long list, including a deep scratch in the aluminum bed and also a faulty extruder motor.

I had to use an electric guitar string and clean out the nozzle pipes specifically on the left extruder plus a tired old motor, they sent it out completely blocked and unusable without repair.

I have to say, overall this was not a particularly happy purchase for me.

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## Geoff

> Unfortunately - doesn't deliver to Australia.....


Yes they do, I got mine delivered in 5 days from china - but that doesn't mean I recommend buying one.

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## EagleSeven

> These feet?  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:916254


The feet we printed are very similar to those but have more plastic at top 
to hold them on printer better, when lifting up or moving printer.
And they used pipe-insulation for the spring, not many metal-springs.
(insulation can be purchased at hardware stores)

This is feet we printed with Black PLA to match printer color
and they work very well !
(Since we already had the pipe-insulation they were easy to assemble)
These will fit several different models and makes of printers

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:691234

ctc feet.jpg

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