# Specific 3D Printers, Scanners, & Hardware > Einscan-S 3D scanner >  Post your scans here !

## Hugues

My first scan, 48h after reception, not bad considering i did it on a Mac ! 

I scanned an orange, because everybody know what it is , and i think it's probably a difficult object to scan, it's kind of uniform, and i wanted to see if it picked up the skin texture.

Well it's beyond my expectations !  :Big Grin: 

I cannot upload the mesh here, it's 300 MB, i tried on Thingiverse, but i think it's too big. You can see every little bump and texture of the skin, i scanned in high res mode, it took a few minutes only. Picture is a printscreen, and i also try to show the mesh, so many triangles in every little bump.

Shining 3D team -> You guys are incredible !

This tool is opening up so many possibilities now.

orange1.jpgorange2.jpg

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## Elpulpo

Hey there. I'm not a backer but very interested in the Einscan. Suggest you upload scans to Sketchfab for everyone to appreciate.

Cheers,

AndyL

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## EinScan-S

Hi, AndyL, we have a official page on Sketchfab. We have uploaded a lot of scans. click this link  https://sketchfab.com/einscan

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## Rebecca

fantastic~! expecting for more wonderful scans sharing here~

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## Hugues

Scanned my motorcycle helmet this afternoon, high details selection,
the resulting file was 1 gig !!  :EEK!: 

It took me about an hour, 20 scans maybe, each time the software managed to align the new scan with the rest, perfect !

I cannot upload the stl file here, but just to give you an idea of the level of detail:
at the back of my helmet, there is a slightly embossed logo, same color as surrounding, i measured its thickness at around 0.1 mm, 
the scanner did not have any problem to pick it up, you can read it at the back of the helmet: Nolan

Amazing !

The image below is a printscreen of the mesh after being reduced to around 170 meg, using Meshlab


helmet.jpg

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## awerby

The Einscan does look like an interesting product; I called it "vaporware" because it didn't appear that they were actually selling it yet, but just taking pre-orders. But it's good to know that some of them are out in the world and working for people. I guess they're ramping up production at this point. It seems that it is capable of capturing good detail, and integrating the scans (at least those taken in turntable mode) into solid models. They don't talk much about the "free scanning" option on their site, except that it's capable of dealing with larger objects. I'd definitely like to try one out, but I guess that won't happen until the end of August at the earliest. 

Andrew Werby
www.computersculpture.com

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## Hugues

The scan above was taken without their turn table, but using a tripod instead. I was turning the helmet.

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## Elpulpo

Yup, EinScan-S. Saw that. Rest assured, I'm watching you! :-)

However, I like to see what your average user can achieve. Once bitten, twice shy :-)

Cheers,

AndyL

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## Nerv

Just to show you what the EinScan-S is really capable of, this model is so accurately detailed you can pick up surface deviation that wasn't even that obvious to the eye.

The shape is what made this part very challenging to scan. The internal profile transitions from one side to the other, and getting all of that to align perfectly takes practice, but it is very possible with the package as it is.

This part is 510mm x 460mm x 115 mm. This was all in a single scan session.

Finally.jpg

Same scan, just from underneath:

Finally_Bot.JPG

Just in case anyone was on the fence about what this scanner is actually capable of. No scanner in the world even comes close to the EinScan-S for the price.

Someone asked if the HP sprout could do this? I would love to see someone try! This part is really large!

Now I can use this file to design parts to attach to it as intended. This scanner isn't intended for reverse engineering, but scanning items to get silhouettes for design work, this it can do very well.

Best regards,

Dave @ Nerv

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## Nerv

This surface roughness shown is actually really there. Very thin burned oil deposits are on that surface and I painted over them for scanning because I wasn't too concerned about such fine detail. 

The scanner picked it up anyway: Every single little bump and nick is actually casting flaws on the part, not scan glitches like so many other scanners produce.

Pan_Surface_Deviation.JPG

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## Hugues

Wow ! Impressive clean scan !
Did you get to install version 1.4 ?
If so, do you find it faster to auto-align ?

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## Nerv

These are the typical times I found while scanning with v1.4. I didn't measure prior versions.

Scanning: 21.1 seconds typical - Same time regardless of how many scans have taken place.
Auto alignment: 1 second per 100 MB video ram used +/- 1 second, so at 1254 MB Graphics memory, it took 12.09 seconds to auto align.

If possible, better to take something apart and scan the smaller parts than get them all in one big scan due to the memory/time relationship. Having said that, I would say actual scanning takes 1/3 the time, alignment 1/3 and camera positioning the final third. Having a camera position strategy with proper alignment references in place makes a massive difference, if you don't, that will take up far more time than the actual scanning does.

I recorded this data so I could decide what was best for me to invest my capital in. I was thinking of getting a very fast 8 or more core processor but found that processing time is only a small part of the equation and the gains would be so small as compared to even just placing black cloth and or tape on areas that you don't want captured so you don't have to remove the data after each scan.  

Once properly setup I never have to remove data after a scan, and the auto alignment works 100% of the time. That scan model I posted had zero manual alignments, that was 180 scans.

Thanks for your positive feedback,

Dave @ Nerv

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## 3dprintau

@Nerv did you coat the model, then use tripod. What detail setting did you scan low, medium or high? Excellent scan!!!

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## Nerv

No coating, I used tripod mode (only mode I use - "Freescan mode") High detail mode, medium brightness. 

In a previous post a while back I said this scanner will not pick up dark objects, that was very false. I scanned an engine bay the other day that was painted black and I was astounded the level of detail I was picking up.

I'm not sure, but I think when textures are added to the software the color will no longer matter much and coating will not be necessary. This is what Artec found when they built the Eva with textures, and since they are based on the same technology I wouldn't be surprised if the outcomes are similar.

With this scanner, if you want to pick up near black and still be able to pick up brighter colors you have to scan with the "Dark and bright" setting which doubles your scanning time to around 40 sec. No big deal if it's a small object, huge deal if it's a large object. With this setting it picks up almost everything. Not having to coat is nice.

Dave @ Nerv

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## airguy

Yesterday i got my scanner too ! 3rd batch.
Here is a scan i did this morning.
Freescan mode total 57 scans, took me about an hour+
all scans were auto aligned perfectly.
the model was unpainted so it was total white.
scan.jpg

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## This

Can you tell more about the original dino,
like size colour, and how you scanned it, it looks very good  :Smile:

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## curious aardvark

that looks great. How big was the original and have you printed anything you've scanned yet ?

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## airguy

the original dino is 30cm X 15cm
it is actually this model :
http://www.collecta.gr/dino/dino-all...40-detail.html

but my model was unpainted , just white.
In freescan mode, medium quality , i rotated the dino a LOT of times (57)  :Smile: 
I left the scanner in the calibrated position and on the turntable i rotated the dino by hand in all his angles to get the hidden spots.

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## Rebecca

wow, good work~!

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## Hugues

> ...
> I left the scanner in the calibrated position and on the turntable i rotated the dino by hand in all his angles to get the hidden spots.


Nice scan. Congrats.

You don't need to leave the scanner in the calibrated position. Myself i free scan for the past few weeks and calibrated only once.

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## 24c

Yes, that's a nice scan, nicely focussed detail, so well done. (y)
 Did you mesh it from the point cloud .asc files or use the auto align function in the software?
I found the optical distance from scanner to surface is around 430mm to get a clean focus on the black & white unphase lines, and I think it helps if you don't deviate too much from the previous scan. 
I made a mistake on my first free scans by having the scanner too far away from the object, and I'm sure it decreased the surface resolution, and I noticed surface artefacts too. Anybody else have a recommended distance?
57 scans seems a lot, as 8 is for the typical turntable scan, but moving the camera higher and lower is more beneficial to get easier alignment, than doing the equivalent of one planar rotation, then flipping the object. It definitely seems to work better moving the scanner around.

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## airguy

> Nice scan. Congrats.
> 
> You don't need to leave the scanner in the calibrated position. Myself i free scan for the past few weeks and calibrated only once.


I know , i didn't have much space on the table and i was too lazy to take it apart and connect it again...  :Wink:

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## airguy

> Yes, that's a nice scan, nicely focussed detail, so well done. (y)
>  Did you mesh it from the point cloud .asc files or use the auto align function in the software?
> I found the optical distance from scanner to surface is around 430mm to get a clean focus on the black & white unphase lines, and I think it helps if you don't deviate too much from the previous scan. 
> I made a mistake on my first free scans by having the scanner too far away from the object, and I'm sure it decreased the surface resolution, and I noticed surface artefacts too. Anybody else have a recommended distance?
> 57 scans seems a lot, as 8 is for the typical turntable scan, but moving the camera higher and lower is more beneficial to get easier alignment, than doing the equivalent of one planar rotation, then flipping the object. It definitely seems to work better moving the scanner around.


Thank you i guess i got luck on that !
I did auto align that worked like a charm , but i also saved the .asc files in case i needed them.
How can i do the alignment manually with .asc files ??? is there a tutorial somewhere ???
Since i didn't move from the calibration position although i was in free mode my distance was close to 430-500mm and i never moved the scanner , i was only repositioning the model.
I also thought that 57 scans were a lot but there were many hidden angles and i was too lazy to setup the scanner on the tripod ...
The model was 99% scanned and only about 1% of the surface was left to auto water tight. Especially the area inside the mouth was very hard !
I had around 10-12 scans to get the inside....

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## Hugues

> ...
> How can i do the alignment manually with .asc files ??? is there a tutorial somewhere ???
> e....


The .asc files are already aligned, but they contain the XYZ coordinates of the point cloud. To convert that to an .stl file, follow this procedure:
http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...6417#post66417

Could be helpful if you are not happy sometimes with the way Einscan does the meshing.

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## airguy

Thank you , i will try it for fun anyway !

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## eTraxx

Ok. Having seen some of the magnificant scans posted here mine seems somewhat primative. Still. Here goes. This was done using the turntable, hi-res. Model was sprayed with white primer. I scanned it with the tires down, then a scan on the right and left side. .. Next will be trying free scanning.

comparephotos.jpg

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## manish

hi,

i am the new member of Ein-scan.
Quality wise hats off.
Still struggling with accuracy.
not achieving what was expected less than 0.1mm.
Here are some images of scan, i did.

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## manish

hi,

i am the new member of Ein-scan.
Quality wise hats off.
Still struggling with accuracy.
not achieving what was expected less than 0.1mm.
Here are some images of scan, i did.6.jpg7.jpg8.jpg9.jpg11.jpg

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## Eric_Wang

Hi manish:

The accuracy of one-shot scan is 0.1mm, not the whole scan .

Eric

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## 24c

> The accuracy of one-shot scan is 0.1mm, not the whole scan


Now that is very interesting, and explains why i get more artefacts, blurring of detail using the turntable in more than one pass or shot!
Excellent feedback, and it backs up the observations of others re turntable scans.  :Smile: 

Mike

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## Hugues

> Hi manish:
> 
> The accuracy of one-shot scan is 0.1mm, not the whole scan .
> 
> Eric


So then it means what we lose compared to 0.1mm is due to the alignment process ?

I wonder if we can achieve a better accuracy when aligning with Meshlab. Although it's more time consuming.

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## 24c

> I wonder if we can achieve a better accuracy when aligning with Meshlab. Although it's more time consuming.



Exactly Hugues, my thoughts entirely, and it's also important to move the object to get most information in the first pass, which is harder to do on a single axis turntable. 
What Nerv and others have done with Free Scan mode backs this up, and you really want to progress your scans to provide non ambiguous information to the cameras, that way the self align function doesn't get confused.

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## cadcare

hi manish,
can you upload this stl file to mediafire to check the scanning quality. if youi are in india please send your address or cell no.

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## manish

hi cad care,

you are from india?
which place?
my number is 9920997945

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## dklassen

What file types does their software output? .obj? Also, can you scan part of an object and still output a mesh / fused file or does it have to be a closed 360 scan?

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## Hugues

> What file types does their software output? .obj? Also, can you scan part of an object and still output a mesh / fused file or does it have to be a closed 360 scan?


- STL file and also point cloud file (xyz coord)
- yes, no need to scan 360, the software will close the mesh

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## Nerv

The software also with save as .Obj for direct import in CAD, the result of my direct request based on use with scan files in SolidWorks using the Scanto3D add-in.

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## Slack

Okay, first real scan, after playing around for a day or two. Its in Medium Res, using Bright/Dark and turntable. (My old laptop can't handle High Res!). I scanned it three times.... once with it lying on it's back. The Croc is 180mm long and 80mm wide between front legs.
Croc1.jpgCroc2.jpgCroc3.jpgCroc4.jpg
Croc Original1.jpg

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## dklassen

Just having a little fun with the SLS-2.

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## sl33pydog

First successful scan.  A lot of people are right, the tripod mode is the best way to go.  I wish weller made their power cables detachable in the back.Capture1.JPG

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## sl33pydog

Second and third scan.  The second is a LG projector and the third one is a bottle of odor eater scanned using the other projector.  Granted I won't know if it's accurate, just interesting if the projector ever goes out and parts aren't available, you can use another projector (assuming you put in the correct settings in the computer and projector).Projector medium.JPGodor.JPG

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## Hugues

Interesting
Thanks a lot

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## 24c

> Granted I won't know if it's accurate, just interesting if the projector ever goes out and parts aren't available, you can use another projector



That is interesting, and re accuracy, I assume there might be a parallax error, but, as the cameras are only seeing the patterns projected over the object, if you sit the projector over the other vertically, maybe when you calibrate it, it would self correct. 
I did take my cover off and the projector unit is pretty well integrated with the cameras, and although your system works, it might be best suited to turntable scans aka fixed scanner positioning, as it'd be a heavy lump on the end of a tripod boom with a separate projector strapped to it.  :Smile: 
Mike

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## Slack

Medium Detail.... Bright/Dark.... Turntable.... Object is approx 175mm long x 150mm wide x 175mm high.
Render Shepherd 1.jpgRender Shepherd 2.jpgRender Shepherd 3.jpgRender Shepherd 4.jpgShepherd Front Chair.jpg

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## curious aardvark

that's bloody good !

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## curious aardvark

> hi cad care,
> 
> you are from india?
> which place?
> my number is 9920997945


lol was going to say you probably don't want your number on the web. 
But then as 99% of call centres are in india - you're probably safe :-)

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## sl33pydog

> That is interesting, and re accuracy, I [/COLOR]assume there might be a parallax error, but, as the cameras are only seeing the patterns projected over the object, if you sit the projector over the other vertically, maybe when you calibrate it, it would self correct. 
> I did take my cover off and the projector unit is pretty well integrated with the cameras, and although your system works, it might be best suited to turntable scans aka fixed scanner positioning, as it'd be a heavy lump on the end of a tripod boom with a separate projector strapped to it. 
> Mike


Yah definitely not for portability compared to the scanner.  I was curious when you said you looked inside so I opened mine too.  To my surprise everything was modular with normal connectors like USB to the cameras.  Looks like easy to replace pieces and maybe a chance to upgrade the cameras.  That face plate was super difficult to take off.  I would not recommend it to people if they haven't opened something up before like a phone or tablet.  I'm going to try to find cameras to upgrade this if the original camera supplier won't sell individual cameras.  I want to make a base station for higher rez scans.

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## 24c

As I'm on v1.7.1 now, and I see there is a v1.7.2 out on 3dker, I thought I'd do another test scan and a photo reference. It's only a one pass scan on the turntable (and if it had more steps the cavity detail would be clearer, less shadows to obscure the projected patterns), but the results are impressive, much better than the early software, so well done Shining 3D.  :Smile: 

Einscan-S object.jpgEinscan-S-simplify.jpg

Mike

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## Slack

This was done using the turntable, Medium Light, High Detail. Object approx 60mm high x 40mm wide. I did 6 scans.Bear1.jpgBear2.jpgBear3.jpgBear4.jpgBear5.jpg

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## Slack

Turntable, Light/Dark, High Detail, 3 scans. Object is approx 180mm high x 140mm deep x 100mm wide.

Pelican1.jpgPelican2.jpgPelican3.jpgPelican4.jpgDSC04427.jpg

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## curious aardvark

anyone got any prints of things they've scanned ?

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## Budschinger

First try, not bad...!

original:

IMG_0681.jpg 

scan:

Bildschirmfoto 2015-12-16 um 15.11.32.jpg Bildschirmfoto 2015-12-16 um 15.12.00.jpg Bildschirmfoto 2015-12-16 um 15.11.51.jpg Bildschirmfoto 2015-12-16 um 15.13.13.jpg

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## Budschinger

print (low quality) / original:

IMG_0686.jpg IMG_0683.jpg IMG_0684.jpg IMG_0685.jpg

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## curious aardvark

now that's excellent !

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## sl33pydog

Tried out the scanner by scanning the dashboard of my dodge dakota. Medium on Dark settings.  Worked out really well.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1241317

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## Nerv

bigscan.JPG

Here is a recent one... 9 gig worth of scan data. Amazing what the new software can do now.

Dave @ NERV

www.NERVIndustries.com

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## curious aardvark

okay i am officially super impressed ! 

How the hell did you do that ?

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## Nerv

There is a very specific scan technique you can use with this scanner that almost guarantees accurate scan alignment every single scan. I have no idea how many hours I have been scanning with this scanner but it has been plenty. I'm surprise the unit hasn't given me any problems such is the amount of time I've been scanning.

That scan has much more data than what you can see in that image, it has all sides of the engine (which is a full size V8) as well as the transmission. It takes days to do a scan of this size (it took me days anyway). Glad we can save projects now!

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## 24c

Great scan Dave, and I can believe it's a 9 gig file too.  :Smile: 
Mike

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## Budschinger

Can you please tell more about this "very specific scan technique"?

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## Nerv

I'll put together a detailed procedure and post it on our website soon. 

Regards,
Dave @ NERV
www.NervIndustries.com

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## Budschinger

ok, great!

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## Budschinger

Can't find any further information on your website!?

You used SolidWorks? Which Software? Which Add-Ins?

Thank you....

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## 3DWP

@Nerv Hi Dave, hope to see some tips soon. You seem to have lots of experience with the Einscan, thanks for all the info and help.

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## 3DWP

> I'll put together a detailed procedure and post it on our website soon. 
> 
> Regards,
> Dave @ NERV
> www.NervIndustries.com


I used the contact form to ask but no reply.. Asked again for a tutorial.

Are you there Dave?  :Smile:

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## bitsmisin

Also interested in a tutorial. I can manual scan and auto align in one rotational plane, but as soon as I flip it (to get missing data), it can't figure it out. Maybe I need an intermediate rotation to allow it to understand. Works for natural shapes as there is little symmetry but a uniform shape it struggles. 

Also, is the scan to scale? It is hard to tell. Any good way to orientate correctly once in meshmixer? This is all new but exciting!

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## 3DWP

> I'll put together a detailed procedure and post it on our website soon. 
> 
> Regards,
> Dave @ NERV
> www.NervIndustries.com


Dave/Nerv isn't responding, guess he doesn't want to share the tutorial anymore.. 

I saw software version 1.7.3 is out, downloading now. Did people use it already?

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## This

I have been scanning with 1.7.3 for a few days works great, but I only have the Einscan-s also for a few days.
it is giving my iMac and Win scan laptop a workout, these files are huge  :Cool: 

And here are my first test scans  :Smile: 

The Catwoman head is a little smaller the a life size head.



The Rancor is about 5cm in height.

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## 3DWP

> I have been scanning with 1.7.3 for a few days works great, but I only have the Einscan-s also for a few days.
> it is giving my iMac and Win scan laptop a workout, these files are huge 
> 
> And here are my first test scans 
> 
> The Catwoman head is a little smaller the a life size head.
> 
> 
> 
> The Rancor is about 5cm in height.


Wow, nice scans! I am scanning right now with 1.7.3 but my objects are a bit shiny so not too successfull. I have sprayed them with chalk, helps a bit. I'll try some matte figurines later.

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## This

I also noticed that the surface is very important to get a good scan,
white or light gray and matte as possible, and one uniform color, and especially no black or dark colors.

I guess some hairspray should also dull the surface a lot, and is easily removable.

I looked into some special spray cans, that spray a matte white powder on the surface that can be brushed off.
http://www.laserdesign.com/3d-scan-spray/
https://www.igo3d.com/en/3d-coating-spray.html

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## bitsmisin

Anything from a local hardware store? What about plastidip or is it too thick and messy? What about reference marks for uniform objects to help align things? 
How important is having the scanner perpendicular to the object to get the right focal point. I noticed on the auto mode, because of the angle the bottom was out of focus but top was sharp. More reason to ditch the turntable maybe. 
Those scans above are amazing though!

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## This

The best and most easy material from the hardware store is liquid latex rubber, if you add a white pigment it should dry up white, and is easily removable,
I am going to try that this week.

I must say the free scans give a better result, and I use the projected cross to keep the main part in focus, but when the final meshing is done, it seems to add all the sharper detail for the final mesh.
I have not got the idea that there are parts of the object out of focus, and you can always cut away unwanted parts in the segment you scanned before adding to the group scans.

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## 3DWP

> The best and most easy material from the hardware store is liquid latex rubber, if you add a white pigment it should dry up white, and is easily removable,
> I am going to try that this week.
> 
> I must say the free scans give a better result, and I use the projected cross to keep the main part in focus, but when the final meshing is done, it seems to add all the sharper detail for the final mesh.
> I have not got the idea that there are parts of the object out of focus, and you can always cut away unwanted parts in the segment you scanned before adding to the group scans.


OK so free scan is sharper? I don't understand the calibration part, in the manual it says if you move the scanner you have to calibrate again. But how often do you have to do this? If you go to free scan you also move the camera so what am I supposed to do?

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## Hugues

> OK so free scan is sharper? I don't understand the calibration part, in the manual it says if you move the scanner you have to calibrate again. But how often do you have to do this? If you go to free scan you also move the camera so what am I supposed to do?


I only calibrate when i upgrade their software.

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## This

It's not that free scan gives better detail, it allows you to move the object yourself to fill holes in the scan, and will make a better complete scan.

The calibration part (I think) is to calibrate the scanner with the turn table, so the software knows exactly where the model is, for aligning scans with the steps of rotation,
this will make a faster scan, but could leave hidden parts of the object out of the scan.

While I'm doing free scans, I keep an eye out for the cross that is projected on the object, and adjust so it is not to close or far away from the scanner,
in theory, when the cross hair is sharpest it should scan best, but certain parts of the object will always be closer or further away.
I don't see less detail on the resulting scan when the line pattern, on the object during scanning, is not sharpest.

I am really amazed of the detail of the scans, and auto aligning works great.

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## This

I completed the scan of the Catwoman bust,
Also did some experimenting with Meshmixer to adjust and cleanup the scan.

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## Nerv

Marthijn contacted us directly and I see in this thread you guys have been asking how the tutorial(s) are coming along. I haven't been on this forum in quite a while, our silence isn't intentional, just busy in other areas. 

We have been trying to prepare a detailed tutorial with images to aid users in scanning successfully with the EinScan-S, but it hasn’t happened yet. The project we were working on that required extensive 3D scanning is no longer a priority so we haven’t been using the scanner much as of late.

Here are some quick tips though for those that find them helpful:

First, don’t rotate around your part if you are free-scanning, this will always give you a higher misalignment rate. Instead, start at a point that is very central to the part you are scanning, then pan at as close to the same viewing angle across the part at 50% overlap as one long pass. When you want to get more data from that area, start back at the beginning before you change your scanning angles, then do the same sweep again. If the data is almost identical in the overlapping regions, the alignment is almost perfect and almost never fails. When changing the angle you are “sweeping”, start at a common point and try for 100% overlap – this is very important.

Next, to reduce the amount of “stacking errors” there are a few ways you can try to globally align the scans as you move away from your starting point. Depending on the shape, you can start with a textured surface (plywood is great or something similar with non-repeating texture). If you tape or paint the base alignment area with a random pattern of dark thick lines it will greatly reduce the amount of scan data you collect to have this reference object. The random pattern also helps with quick alignment. If you offset this surface a little from your main object, EinScan will automatically remove the reference object when you complete the scan, provided none of the supporting elements are touching both are scanned, and that the reference object has less scan points than you main object. If the reference does have more points, that will be the only part that remains when the project is completed.

The flatter the reference object with relatively less depth to its texture the better it will work because it can be captured from many angles and still give back very similar data. For example, we tried the bottom of floor tiles and they worked well for that reason. When we placed our scan object on top of that, it didn’t matter how little of overlapping data we had on the part itself, or if it was going around a corner (a difficult scenario that is prone to misalignment) the scan data would snap in place exactly in the right spot because it used the reference surface scan data instead. From our testing though, wood is best.

Where this all gets very interesting is with a custom little program we wrote here. It allows you to create your own project files that will function based off a set of previous scans. So if you were to take the time to make a nice base scan of your reference object, you could save that as a project and then never have to re-scan that data. Then, once you are finished your project, simply close the program, remove the scans that were part of the initial base prep (if done properly they will have identifying info in the scan file names) and then you can complete your project, or if it is really large you can just take chunks of your aligned scan data, open just that chunk and then only add additional scan data to that region. This saves many hours waiting for alignments when scanning huge projects. We have some really big scans.

We feel these features should be handled by the software but we have met a little hesitation from the Chinese in this regard. It wouldn’t take much to get much more capability out of this scanner but we are very impressed with what we have been able to do with the investment that had to be made thus far. We have had to try many approaches though, months of effort and testing.

I hope this helps!

Best regards,

Dave @ NERV
www.NervIndustries.com

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## 3DWP

Thanks for the tips! So it is ''possible'' to move the scanner around the object? I just rotated the objects and left the scanner in position..

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## Hugues

You can do both, you can even turn the scanner on its side or upside down, I did and saw no differences

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## This

I am almost done with my first total scan, just the fingers are missing.

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## scobo

Wow, fantastic scan !
Any chance you could upload the stl here ?
I'm liking the sound of this scanner the more I read about it.

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## This

I won't upload the total scan...yet, but here is the scan of the hand

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ra...a-24205c8d0cc2

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## scobo

Nice one, thanks.
Trying to get a look at few sample STLs before I place an order although I'm pretty much convinced already.

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## This

There are example scans from Einscan on their Sketchfab page
https://sketchfab.com/einscan

but be aware there are also Einscan-pro scans

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## scobo

Thanks,  I'll check them out too. 👍

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## scobo

Just got my scanner today, here's a couple of my first attempts.
No post scan processing or clean-up.

The famous Thingiverse owl 3D printed on my Davinci 1.0 .....




A small fishing bear model measuring 52mm in height.

Original ....




Scan ....

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## annarosy

that looks great.Can you tell more about the original dino,

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## scobo

> that looks great.Can you tell more about the original dino,


Which scan are you referring  to ?

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## scobo

This is the biggest scan I've done so far at 216mm in height. It took 3 passes on the turntable at various angles.
I used Meshmixer to lightly smooth a couple of areas where the alignment left marks but any remaining creases or wrinkles are from the original part and not scan artifacts.

Necklace stand

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## neveroddoreven

I still struggle to scan flat circular objects, which is the most popular type of thing I scan (usually a replacement cover for something).  I'm using a piece of plywood with gentle grain to help orient upon turning the object around.  I use a binder clip to prop hold the circular object upright so it's standing on edge.  Interestingly, binder clips completely vanish from scans, the scanner can't see them at all (great for me).  With this setup, I can at least get a few sets of scans that I am trying to clean up with Meshlab/Meshmixer.

Also, I used to have a lot of problems with dark black plastic items (either matte or gloss).  Others have recommended some expensive sprays to cover the surface.  A light dusting from a can of Tinactin foot spray is working great for me, and it wipes off clean later!

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## This

The expensive sprays is just to add a white matt surface to the object, you can use whatever you like, even hairspray is great to make the object matt.
those expensive sprays lets you wipe it off without any residue left 

if you scan an object with light and dark areas there will be a surface (scale) difference in the final scan,
so it's better to make the object one solid colour or tone down the difference between the dark and lighter parts.

Scanning geometric smooth objects is not easy, because the software has no reference where one part ends and the next scan part begins, it needs a reference,
a trick it to stick small black dots in a random pattern on the surface and inside to let to software see those reference points.

PUTTIN-ON-DOTS.jpg

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## scobo

I've been trying chalk spray recently.
Works pretty well, easy to remove and cheap.

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## neveroddoreven

I've tried the dots, and also tried using stick on rubber feet which are raised rectangular shapes cut into irregular triangles. The problem is allowing the scanner to simultaneously see registration marks on both sides of flat or hollow parts.  If it doesn't see enough registration points simultaneously, it won't mesh.

I will next try making a pair of long sticks with one irregular registration end, and flat faced magnets embedded on the other end.  These should clamp together through flat objects, and stick out far enough to be visible from all angles.

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## scobo

I just got some of this stuff ...... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3312579843...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Gives a nice even, light blue coating which scans very well and cleans of easily.

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## This

I would be very interested to some pics of some objects painted with this coating, before and after cleaning  :Smile: 
just to see what residue is left behind, if any.

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## scobo

No residue at all, it contains talcum powder so it just wipes clean off.
I just wiped this with my finger (2nd picture) but if you apply it lightly enough, you can even blow it off.
It didn't scan well at all without the coating, being jet black.

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## scobo

Something weird going on with this thread, I can only see pictures people have posted from page 7 onward ???
Anyone else finding this ?

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## This

> Something weird going on with this thread, I can only see pictures people have posted from page 7 onward ???
> Anyone else finding this ?


Same here, just pics from page 7 and up,
maybe the posters took them down ?, I host my images on Dropbox, and once in a while I do a clean-up of older posting images.

btw, I found a local supplier of the chalk spray, and will give it a try  :Smile:

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## scobo

You could be right. Although it usually leaves a dead link behind when you delete pictures and don't edit the post too.

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