# Specific 3D Printers, Scanners, & Hardware > Pegasus Touch Laser SLA Printer Forum >  Open Sourcing the Pegasus

## doobie

Howdy, I'm creating this thread to track my progress on working on an open source software package for the Pegasus Touch.  

1) I have figured out the following items so far: 
   A) enable/disable laser (not sure if it is tuned right or not)
   B) control brightness of backlight on screen
   C) know if Z limit is reached
   D) know if case is open.

2) I'm working on and have ideas for controlling the galvo.  It uses an ADC that I need to figure out how to communicate with.  I have the basic theory, but I'm debating if I do a python script or try to load it into the PRU.  I'm unable to load anything into the PRU on my BBB so I'm having some issues getting things to work, but I'm pretty sure I know which pins to toggle and what the toggles should look like.

3) Haven't nailed down how to control the Z axis.  I believe I can get the enable, but nothing I've done so far will move it up or down.

4) I have info on obtaining root access, but I would recommend getting a new BBB for work to prevent any damage to the existing one (unless you have given up the retina software).  I have a few things to upload to the git repo, but it'll probably be in a few days.
https://github.com/doobie42/pegasus3dprinter

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## fred_dot_u

As an ordinary owner and currently non-user, this is exciting stuff to see. I certainly don't have the skill to pop a new beagle into the case and reprogram the thing, but have enough skill to pop a new beagle in the case and run with an established working program.

Is it unrealistic to think that your efforts would result in the Pegasus working with a program such as Simplify3D?

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## doobie

If what I'm working on works...  Anything that spits out gcode will work.  I've never used Simplify3D.  I'm looking at integrating my code into BeagleG which is a gcode processor for a variety of hardware platforms for Beagle's.  Once I'm done (as as I make progress), the code will all be open source so anyone can help add, modify, fix, or improve it.  There won't be any limits on what it'll be able to do (unless I completely fail in getting control of it, but I think I'm fairly close; so long as I find the free time).

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## fred_dot_u

After seeing the video on github associated with the BeagleG processor, I can see why you'd be aiming in that direction.

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## doobie

I'm having issues resolving how to enable the galvo's I think.  I cannot get them to budge even following the code I see from disassembling to example code.  I was able to enable/disable/drive the laser, but not move it's position.  I also was unable to get the z stepper motor to move, but have some ideas.

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## doobie

I have the galvo, laser, and stepper under control.  It's all in python, so it isn't usable for printing, but a first step.

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## doobie

I have a gcode parser in C that can drive the galvo and laser.  I have stepper code in python that seems to reliably move the Z axis.  I'm working to move the Z axis into C, but it has become problematic.  I spent about an hour last night trying to do it, and of course I gave up and went to do some reading and realized my mistake but didn't feel like powering everything up, maybe tonight or tomorrow....  Going to be bringing my printer to a local Maker Space (maybe two tomorrow) to show off what I've done with it.

I'm pondering doing a Kickstarter in which I will put together a BBB configured for the new software.  Not 100% sure if I'll do that or just let everyone "fend" for themselves.  I'd have to look into it, I figured it would be like $100 to cover the cost of a BBB board and time to get the software developed/installed on the boards, and the software would become open source in the end.

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## fred_dot_u

Are there aspects of the Pegasus that are not working and not expected to be addressed by FSL? Will having an alternative control system available correct these problems? I'm disappointed that there isn't more traffic on this particular topic, as it would certainly add to the level of understanding.

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## doobie

You can use any resin you want without paying $1500 license fee to FSL, you can resale your printer without paying a transfer free (buyer), you will have full control over the printer.  

I'm using everything open source so others can contribute/fix/tweak.

You're always able to move back to the FSL system by putting that BBB into your machine.

Downsides I'm not a GUI person so it probably won't be a nice GUI to start.

And no warranty.  Of course I doubt FSL would warranty anything if they software screwed up and broke your printer or wasted resin.

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## fred_dot_u

I like the "any resin" aspect you've noted. My Pegasus is yet in the box from the kickstarter days. I had sent a question to FSL back then and was requested to return the printer for a full re-fit. Since its return, it's remained in the box. I currently have no place to set it up for practical use. Setting up, printing, followed by breaking down is not indicated. I've been keeping up on all the troubles other users have had and hope I can use their experiences to benefit my use in the future. I'm hopeful I'll have a workspace by the time you're ready to release your work.

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## doobie

I'll have to take a look at what they have.  I'm currently using slic3r with some Muve3d laser settings for my config file to generate g-code (what the printer uses to move the laser point/etc).  I don't know if it'll do reliable prints with the FSL.  I'm mainly worried I will burn through vats faster than I can keep up while debugging.

I stopped using my printer because my workspace was in my garage, which is heated, but would cost a fortune to heat to 70 degrees so it stays around 40-45 in the winter and my prints went from ok to dead over night when the temps dropped in 2014.

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## fred_dot_u

From my reading, temperatures are pretty important and my house in the summer runs 80-84 deg F, as we are penny pinchers for running the A/C in the Florida heat. Now that the house is just about perfect temp, in the mid 70's for the winter, my wife has a remodel project running that means no working room. No room in the garage, no room in the spare bedrooms, and the living room was a hoarder's hide-out already. For all the bucks spent on the remodel, I could have had a beautiful huge workshop. It's going to take my lifetime to save enough to build one and by then I'll be so close to keeling over, it won't be worth it.

I'm not sure what you mean when you say you'll have to take a look at what they have?

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## doobie

> I'm not sure what you mean when you say you'll have to take a look at what they have?


It was in reference to your comment about some people having trouble with their prints; I was going to look into what issues they were having.

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## fred_dot_u

From what I can recall, plate flatness is one aspect. When a printer can produce 0.025 mm resolution, a divot in the plate or a minor (to a filament printer) warp will cause print failure. Bed leveling is another concern.As already noted, temperature control is important too. I think one user had a problem related to the bed zero location being  too far down, compressing the silicone or the supervat so much that all  the resin was squeezed out in some locations. From what I've read, none of these failures can be attributed to software.

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## doobie

Ahhh, my code might take into account the last ones. I'll have a calibration method where you can indicate where the bed is relative to their "limit sensor".  I was also thinking of creating a way to tell when the plate is at or near the bed, but I'm not sure how well this would work out as it would mean attaching a button at the edges of the bed that would act as another limit sensor.  The FSL3D cape would support me adding two of these buttons I think, if not I might be able to hijack some other unused pin.

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## fred_dot_u

When I first read about the troubles with bed leveling, I figured some inexpensive pressure sensors and an arduino would be an easy accessory. I found something "way back then" that would take well to clip on the edge of the plate and be compressed between the bed and plate and display either arbitrary values or difference between sensors. These things were tiny and now have become lost. If/when I get mine up and running, I'll probably pursue that option. It would be easier than sticking calibrated spacers at each corner and using objective feel by sliding a slip of paper between the plate and spacers. I think someone else suggested dial indicators and that might be easier too.  Horrible Freight sells fifteen dollar indicators. Four of them and some 3d printed stands to hold them vertical might do the trick, although it would be important to calibrate the indicator bases to ensure they were all alike. I have a mini-mill and may build aluminum indicator stands for more consistent measurements, but that's for later.

What happens if one tries to use a non-FSL resin in the vat? It's not like there's a registration number embedded in the liquid or that one has to enter such information into the panel.

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## doobie

Depends on the resin, it'll either over harden or not harden enough.  The Pegasus will try to harden the resin with the amount of energy required for FSLs resin; other resins may or may not have success, and with RetinaCreate there is no control over those types of settings.

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## fred_dot_u

That alone is makes all your work worthwhile. Of course some experimenting would be required once you can change the numbers, but not being able to do so without shelling out big bucks is a miserable aspect of their licensing. I'd like to hear from someone who has paid for that ability to learn how well the method provided worked for him

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## doobie

Hopefully I'll be successful.  I have all the basic code in my software, I need to add some calibration hooks so I can control exposure, Z lift rates/amounts, how many steps for how much distance, and the mapping for the X/Y so things print the right size.  I have some MakerJuice G+ that should arrive next week.

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## doobie

I enabled a file based calibration file.  I'm going to need to study a variety of different slicing problems (I've been using slic3r so far), but I'm being told Creation Workshop might be better for laser printers.  I also need to determine speeds to lift off the VAT and how far to go before going back down.  My MakerJuice will arrive sometime next week and I'll be able to start printing then..assuming I decide my calibration parameters are close enough to working.  I'll start with a 20mm cube and likely print the first layer a few times before I'm happy with it.

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## doobie

Yaya!  I just enabled the LCD.  Next step to enable X; and in parallel complete my calibration tools.  Once the calibration tools are done I think I'll be ready for printing.  I started working on a Z axis calibration tool.  I haven't began the X/Y yet.

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## fred_dot_u

Your reverse engineering skills boggle the mind! 

If you could open up/unlock the Cubify Cube 3rd gen in the same manner, you'd have people flocking to your door! I'd love to be able to use Simplify3d on my soon-to-be-obsolete Cube 3rd gen.

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## doobie

Dang, broke the rest of my code enabling the LCD.  Ahh the fun of development  :Smile:

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## fred_dot_u

Is there a solution to broken code? Revision reversal?

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## doobie

Well turns out somewhere along the way a beagle bone black tool upgraded itself and wasn't compatible with the version of Linux I was using.  *sigh*  all my debug time for today was gone.  Still have a compatibility issue between my code and the LCD, but that'll hopefully be something I can resolve later.

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## doobie

Using up the last of my resin.  I printed 2 layers for a 20mm x 20mm cube, it ended up being 30mm, so I adjusted my scale and am now trying to print the full thing.  About 20 minutes in and 1.77mm printed.  I'm being very conservative in my stepping and pauses, so each layer has a 10 second pause between them, and I move up about 20mm between layers and I move 1/4 of that very slowly.  We'll see how it goes in a few hours.  I'll debate if I will keep it printing util it is done or not.

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## fred_dot_u

I enjoy hearing of your progress with this project. I'm also quite surprised that there are no other contributors to this topic, even if only to say they appreciate the updates. You've accomplished something I'd never thought I would see with this printer.

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## doobie

Thanks.  I try to keep a balance between too much and too little  :Smile:   This print is showing me things I really need to do before it's ready even for others to start trying it out.  One main issue I just ran into is the network stack seems to have given out and I lost my SSH window so I cannot see progress anymore.  I need to make sure I can recover if things disconnect/die out.  I have no idea how far along it is now after an hour, it is at least 5.37mm.  I still hear the print, for better or worst, sticking after each layer.  I'll probably stop it printing in an hour or two.

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## doobie

Well I think my X/Y scale *was* correct or pretty close originally, it was laser power that was WAY high causing it to solidify much more than it should have.  My Z is either really short or my software cut out mid print.  I'm not really sure due to the network issue.  Going to try another print probably tomorrow night with 1/2 laser power.  My network connection is slow but I'm trying to upload a short video of a layer or two.

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## doobie

Here's a video I took of it printing a few layers: youtube link

Here is my first cube.https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...hJMjVjU3pleHRB

Quite a bit over exposure  :Smile:

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## doobie

Second cube wasn't much better, but I think I have some positioning issues.  I need to try to write some new calibration code to see what is going on, down side is that I have a vat full of resin to store/deal with and do a full cleanup before I can do the testing; one of the downsides of starting to use the resin.

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## fred_dot_u

I understood that one can leave the resin in the vat as long as it is shielded from light. I've learned from my reading that it's also very important to filter out cured debris from the resin before performing any additional prints.

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## doobie

Third attempt I tried turning off a feature I created just before I started the print, I'm pretty sure it'll fail; but it's still printing now.  Running way too fast, but who knows, we'll see.

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## doobie

Just enabled all of my debug again and analyzed the results.  I'm definitely trying to print outside of my 20x20 cube area.  The extremes of the laser point indicate 35x35; which is pretty close to the "blob" I had print.  Time to see what pushes it outside of that cube area.  200mb of data in my debug log  :Smile:

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## doobie

I dry ran a cube; this is the first few layers of a 20mm cube.  This is basically what I tried printing the last two times that over exposed 5-10mm out from the edges of the cube.  I cleaned up some of my code and don't think I'm going 35x35mm anymore, and seem to be within .05mm of size based on my gcode processor.  The part that does go outside is my slicer has a skirt around the print which is common for PLA/ABS prints.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kGSB5FVPKk

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## doobie

Well, good news is....I made this cool video.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e4TlYq0LWaY   Bad news is....I accidentally deleted all my code and hadn't backed up for a while.  Semi good news...I recovered most of the files.  I think it is only a few day setback....

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## fred_dot_u

Great video. Too bad about the accidental delete.

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## doobie

I think I recovered everything, it's going to be a busy few weeks so I'm not sure how much I'll be able to get done, probably only a few minutes here or there.  Hopefully by the end of May I'll have something working well if not sooner.

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## fred_dot_u

I know this is partially off-topic, but it's aimed at your astonishing reverse engineering skills. I'm a Cube 3rd gen owner and they will likely become obsolete. Their proprietary slicing software is mediocre at best, but worse than that is the requirement to use chipped cartridges at a price slightly more than US$150 per kilogram for filament.

Obviously you'll be busy for a few weeks, so I would not suggest that you take on an additional project such as this, but what are your thoughts on a project of that nature?

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## doobie

Is it a filament printer?  Does it use an arduino or other controller?  I'm sure it wouldn't be THAT hard to reverse engineer, I don't have one so I couldn't say for sure.  Worst case with a ABS/PLA and stepper motor printer I'm betting you could get some open source software on it.  The Pegasus Touch is a different beast because it is a galvo laser 3d printer.  Not very common, and I don't think there are any open source ones that are really widely used/known.

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## doobie

Also, I'm not sure if you have seen this: http://hackaday.com/2013/04/26/cube-...bulk-filament/ or if it is even valid on the 3rd generation?

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## fred_dot_u

The Cube 3rd gen is a rather polished piece of consumer equipment. It certainly was designed well, with fully enclosed mechanicals, contoured plastic panels and LED workspace illumination. Dual extruders and closed source everything. There's a USB port for the flash drive (A?) and an unused USB printer port (B?) that is marked in the manual as "future use." With the general consensus that 3D Systems is giving up on this item, I doubt there's any future use involved.

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## doobie

Ahhh, has anyone done a tear down?  Once you tear it down, and figure out the controller and can replace it you can probably do anything with it.  Seems like there are some hacks (not sure if they still work as there was talk about Cube doing firmware updates to prevent them from being used).

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## fred_dot_u

I don't know anyone else with a Cube 3rd gen, and the forums for this item seem a bit quiet. The older models have some hacks but nothing new on the Cube 3, which is mostly the latest consumer grade printer.

The Pegasus never really made it to consumer grade, did it? It was a Kickstarter hack job that's lost the following it developed when it first appeared.

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## doobie

Yeah I don't think the Pegasus really made a name for itself mainly because of all the trouble people had during the kickstarter and I think people don't really want proprietary printers (materials/resin/filament/etc) these days for many reasons.  I wouldn't buy it again today.  I wouldn't even consider it.  I *might* buy one from someone if it were really cheap and I get my code working well enough that I could use my software on it.

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## fred_dot_u

I have a continuing search/email trace on ebay for this printer and have seen prices as high as KS level and more recently, down to US$1600, which is still rather high for a printer with such a poor track record.

The Gizmo line of printers look promising, but I was burned with this KS campaign, so I'm not going to invest in that one.

If someone had developed an ideal release surface, do you think this printer becomes viable again?

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## chooch

My Pegasus only shined when I started using non-FSL resin. Here are a few prints I managed to get out after figuring out the right recipe for success:

Oblivion drone: 
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!se...A/EQ1HSe2UK4IJ

Human skull: 
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!se...g/xeK77-Y_AWEJ

Arc reactor: 
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!se...s/SYLqXtaEi40J

My printer still actually works today, it's just that I have to use PDMS coated vats.

Also, I'd like to refine and take out all the shortcomings of the printer that I need to compensate for when thinking about using it.

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## fred_dot_u

Cooch, I see you didn't specify which non-FLS resin you've used. Was it a matter of luck that it works with the Pegasus? Is the stuff you're using less expensive than the name-brand resin?

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## chooch

> Cooch, I see you didn't specify which non-FLS resin you've used. Was it a matter of luck that it works with the Pegasus? Is the stuff you're using less expensive than the name-brand resin?


I used Madesolid's MS V1 black resin... it was $100 a liter on Amazon, which is less than FSL's. Not sure Madesolid still offers it, as they have had MS v2 for awhile and now they have Vorex resin, which is about the same price as FSL, but the Vorex is probably stronger.

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## doobie

Cool.  I wasn't aware other resins worked in the printer!  I'll maybe have to try it at some point.  It would be nice if they gave us better control over calibration.  For my Z axis I have four parameters I've set up for the lift:  Speed0, Speed1, Speed2, SpeedL speed.  You program the speeds for how fast or slow you want each step to be, on a lift it'll do speed0, speed1, speed2, then you can have it pause, then it'll lower at SpeedL.  You can also control how far it moves up for each of the raise speeds.  The lower distance is based on how far it moved up and where it goes on the down.  

I'm trying to figure out how to calibrate it. I ripped up my PDMS on one of my prints; I'm not sure if I moved it too fast or too slow, I'm really hoping I didn't screw up the VAT itself.  I actually tore through the PDMS coating to the VAT, so there may be stuck on resin in that area, which I'm not yet prepared to try to replace yet.

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## doobie

Was playing around trying to work on my GUI last night and created a nice looking calibration feature for the Z axis.  It works for me, but might be a little confusing.  I'll try to make a video to get some suggestions.  I enabled some flexibility in adjustments beyond what FSL provides.  They have a fixed 5micro per step, I enabled it so that you can adjust that slightly by using how many steps per MM (200=5 microns).  In the process of trying to develop it and using some "precision" measurement tools I found that I am not controlling the Z axis well.  And possibly this is why I destroyed my PDMS layer.  I need to make some modifications to how I move the stepper so that I take into account the acceleration and deceleration of the stepper and build plate.  I need to found info on doing this and coded it up, but haven't had time to try it out.  I need to figure out how to fix my VAT as I don't have a warm enough location and probably won't for at least a month or two (likely the stable temp will be between 40 and 60).  I also need to clean it a bit better because it is very messy even after wiping it down with IPA.

I also know my calibration on the x/y galvo isn't really correct either, that one will take a bit more effort, but I think I should be able to get prints with what I have regardless of that calibration.  

I've been unable to get my GUI to work while printing, but I have a command line method for running the galvo.  I'm pondering attempting to enable FSL software on my BBB to see if I can do anything with it.  It would greatly speed up comparisons/debug if I could.

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## fred_dot_u

I had read that cleaning the PDMS type vat results in cloudiness and possibly other problems.

If your ambient temperature is a problem, have you considered to start up your cooking oven at the lowest temperature, placing the vat inside after powering the oven off? Obviously, you'd want to do so after the oven reached a reasonable temperature to avoid damaging the vat. Once the oven has warmed and then cooled to a reasonable level, it would retain enough warmth to combat cold, I would expect. I'd try that as long as my wife was not home, of course!

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## doobie

My original Z axis code was off by 20micron, oops!  That is A LOT!  And I think why I destroyed my vat and possibly why I was smushing the print.  My new updated code is off by 1 micron; better, and maybe within a margin of error of my measuring tools.  I was basically moving up and down 1cm at a time and measuring how much it really moved.  I need to order material to redo my vat and then I'll probably try another print.

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## doobie

I'm having issues with github, but if I can work through it by the weekend I plan on releasing my first code stream to it.  I have one change I want to make to the code to maybe make things work better.  Right now I fill my buffer with about 8000 points before sending it to the printer, I think I want to change it to just doing each line from the gcode.  It'll make it smoother and it'll look more like the FSL's print code.

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## doobie

Ugg, software isn't working today.  This is what I get for getting busy and letting things sit.  I have no idea why it would work worse today than it did last time...but that's software.  Laser isn't running properly.  Ends up being spotty looking and periodically stays on when it should turn off.

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## doobie

Ok, fixed things up and pushed all my latest code out to the githib repo.  https://github.com/doobie42/pegasus3dprinter/

I don't recommend using the FSL BBB, grab a different one.  Don't plug the 24v supply into the BBB.  Put tape or glue in it so you don't do it.

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## doobie

I need to get around to recoating my VAT and I'll hopefully be able to get printing again.  That is unless my last attempt got resin on the vat bottom and I cannot remove it or I goofed and scratch it; I didn't realize how touchy this all way for finger prints/dust/scratches.

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## doobie

Anyone good at mathematics?  I need to come up with a formula to go from the X/Y MM position to the galvo position?  I'll basically have at least 25 points defined, similar as the FSL3D calibration, which I'll use to transform from Xmm x Ymm to Xpos x Ypos.  It's definitely not linear, close to linear in the center, but not as you move to the edges.

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## fred_dot_u

Do you have a diagram to better explain your objective? I enjoy math, trig, geometry, the whole package, but the word problems can be challenging. If it is what I think you mean, it's very much trigonometry and relatively simple math as a result. I have a machinist friend who has effectively memorized a good number of such functions and can almost do the math in his head. The drawing to represent the goal is the key.

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## doobie

I don't have a diagram, but if you have the FSL3d Calibration page it has 25 points, imagine each of those 25 points has an X,Y associated with it.  The values are roughly ~325 per mm.  

so maybe something like this:

0,0     330,5      655,10    980,5       1120,0
0,320  335,315  650,310  985,315    1115,320
....
etc
Not sure how well this will come out.

But each dot is about 45mm apart, so depending on where you are it'll transform into the above matrix, so 135,0 would be 980,5, 90,45 would be 335,315.

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## doobie

Maybe this link will help a bit:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

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## doobie

The projection of the laser isn't linear, but more spherical based on how the laser bounces off the mirror.  I'm going to work on a few gcode files to test my calibration to see how close things are with different algorithms, once I have a few formulas or ideas to try.  It's physically possible because FSL3D does it, so just need to figure out this transformation.  If we had more points it'd be more accurate, I'm wondering what FSL3D does to make it accurate.  I'll have to look into how laser projection systems work to keep their images scaled properly.

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## fred_dot_u

I had hoped to be able to create an image representing your objective in a pseudo-3d manner. I picture a calibration grid projected on the ceiling of a room. The last mirror in the beam travel is the zero point of each triangle. You would need one very precise measurement from the mirror reflection point to any point on the grid. You already know the travel of the beam on the calibration grid, so you have two adjacent triangle edges. I suspect it is possible to determine via code/experimentation the angle created between the first known length measurement and the second point on the grid. Now there's three pieces of data for the triangle. All other calculations can be done with any number of triangle calculators available on the internet. I like this one, as it requires less thought and much less demand on my brain cells: http://www.1728.org/trig4.htm

How does this fit in with your direction?

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## doobie

It might, I'm not sure.  I found this link which is interesting:

http://www.open-electronics.org/how-...ampaign=buffer

"In addition, in the printers using galvanometers, if the size of area to be built is very large, an issue is introduced, due to ovality of the spot of the laser beam in the extreme parts, this ‘aberration’ is to be corrected by the manufacturers through software artifices."

Not entirely sure how to properly correct for it.  Going to try to ask around.

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## fred_dot_u

I would be very surprised to learn that there is much of an ovality of the spot for the Pegasus Touch printer. My Emblaser laser cutter when well focused provides for a 0.05 mm cut. That would indicate the the laser dot is smaller, as the burn-off of material provides for the increased width of cut. For sake of argument, we could consider that my laser presents a 0.03 spot. Even extending it at an angle sufficient to elongate such a dot by a factor of two, that would mean a 0.06 spot. As the laser cutter creates burn-off increase, so would a resin laser present a burn-on increase in resin, I suppose. 

I don't think it's severe, if it's even measurable.

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## doobie

That is very possible the ovality isn't a big deal, but the position is definitely an issue, moving the galvo 500 points in the center is very different that on the outside.  I think I have an idea of what to do, just need to figure out how to do it.

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## fred_dot_u

Are you able to calculate or measure the angle of deflection/change of the final galvo? For the sake of argument, I'd prefer to consider that you're objective is to calibrate specific points on a line. That would mean one galvo does not move, while the other moves in a precise manner. I'd also expect that with appropriate trial and error, one could calculate the distance from the mirror to the vat. I'll make a guess that you can do the mirror movement and calculate angles, otherwise my method vanishes instantly.

Another aspect of this task is to determine the three inputs needed for the calculator online. You can get your "top" distance on the calibration paper and the angle of the galvo movement from the electronics (?) but the third measurement appears to be a tricky one. Can you think of a way to measure the distance from the mirror surface to the vat? Are there indications that at a specific point, the laser is directly below the vat and that the beam would form a right angle to the vat? That would provide a second angle to the calculation, rather than a second distance but any three works.

Another thought is that the angle of the laser movement through an arc on the vat creates a chord of a circle, but at that point, the math goes well beyond my comprehension.

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## doobie

I don't have a good way to measure the angle.  I'm trying to under stand how the FSL3D software and calibration does it.  They user that 25 PT grid to solve how calibrate and align the points.

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## fred_dot_u

Does the method of moving the mirror involve commanding the stepper motor to move a specific number of steps? I'd expect that the grid method takes into account the number of steps executed for movement from one point on the grid to another and calculates an adjustment factor for any movement within the box described by four points.

----------


## doobie

Not a steeper motor.  It is a galvo.  It uses a voltage to position itself.  I can position it anywhere, but just not accurately yet, unless I move it manually to a specific spot.

----------


## fred_dot_u

ah, that does complicate things, doesn't it? I'd been seeing that term all this time and never made the proper connection in my alleged mind. Is there a specific value one can assign to a deflection measured in degrees?

----------


## fred_dot_u

ah, that does complicate things, doesn't it? I'd been seeing that term all this time and never made the proper connection in my alleged mind. Is there a specific value one can assign to a deflection measured in degrees? I found this link:
https://www.thorlabs.com/newgrouppag...tgroup_id=3770
that indicates these devices have an output of sorts, but the tech escapes me.

----------


## doobie

I'll take a look at that later.  I have a friend who uses galvos for laser shows, I'll try to talk to him about it.  Of course he doesn't need it super accurate, but on theory should be close.  

My VAT looks maybe dead.  Mighty be good enough to keep playing with, but I accidentally tore the silicon with my last print and have resin on the acrylic VAT.  Washed most of it off but not sure if I maybe scratched it or not.  Using IPA to clean it then will recoat.

----------


## SRobbins1977

> I'll take a look at that later.  I have a friend who uses galvos for laser shows, I'll try to talk to him about it.  Of course he doesn't need it super accurate, but on theory should be close.  
> 
> My VAT looks maybe dead.  Mighty be good enough to keep playing with, but I accidentally tore the silicon with my last print and have resin on the acrylic VAT.  Washed most of it off but not sure if I maybe scratched it or not.  Using IPA to clean it then will recoat.


Any new updates? I cna get resources to do you up a GUI for your code.  BTW, I'm from NH too. Living in NY now.

----------


## doobie

Nah, not recently, have not yet had the chance to re coat my VAT.  I've got two things on my To-do list though.  I'm still worried my z axis code might lower too much even after calibration.

----------


## thuan1084nd

thanks so much

----------


## doobie

Ahhh been so busy, newborns and all  :Smile:   Anyway I saw this guy: http://hackaday.com/2016/06/13/open-...m-the-browser/  and I think I'll have to check it out.  I'm hoping that in the next month I'll find the time to recoat my vat and start making progress again.

----------


## fred_dot_u

Children and hobbies? How can you manage?

----------


## chooch

This might help us out here:

http://hackaday.com/2016/07/21/formlabs-form-1-api-now-available-on-github/

----------


## doobie

> This might help us out here:
> 
> http://hackaday.com/2016/07/21/formlabs-form-1-api-now-available-on-github/


Cool, will have to check it out.  I *finally* recoated my vat this morning, so I guess in 24-48 hours I can try to see how well the coating came out.  I have some time this week and next so maybe I'll make some progress or at least get some videos of what my "problem" is.

----------


## doobie

woohoo, just spent a little bit this morning trying to get an example laser motion and found a bug  :Smile:   There is a curve, but I'm not sure how well it will come out in the video.  Trying to get a calibrations setting so it's more visible.  If I get something I'll post an image later tonight.

----------


## doobie

Here is the curvature I was talking about, look at the big box, it bows in toward the center.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn30V6w7JUs

----------


## chooch

I have seen the bow before on fsl's standard firmware during galvo extent testing.

Need to get back into modifying this machine... too many projects right now.

----------


## doobie

I think the bow is due to calibration on the standard firmware, maybe I'm wrong.  Trying to find a "formula" to get around this bow.  Of course it would explain why some of my prints with the FSL software failed.

----------


## doobie

I feel bad I haven't had time to do much on this.  I really wanted to stress test the Z axis before I go to print again.  After that I think I've worked out a major bug last time I turned the printer on.  I need to push it to the github repo.  If I knew people were using or trying it out more I might be more motivated.  Another half of me is pondering going back to the standard software and seeing how that prints with the resin I picked up.

----------


## fred_dot_u

I think you have some of the same motivations I do. I work more enthusiastically on projects that may help others than I do for my own stuff. The feedback is important too, as you've noted. My printer is still in the box from the Kickstarter days. When it arrived, I updated the firmware and then learned of a hardware update. I can't recall if it was free minus shipping or reasonable cost, but it was shipped back, and updated. It's been in the box since, as too many projects running at one time can be overwhelming. I've been chastised for letting it sit, but I ignored that post, as no one can determine another person's actions, especially in matters of this sort.

I know I'm not feeding you the motivation, at least not based on my use. I enjoy your technical posts and appreciate your talents in the work you're performing. 

My printer has been moved from the dead space into the hobby room, which is a positive sign anyway!

----------


## doobie

:Smile:   I'd have more motivation though if I had more spare time.  I keep saying I'm going to find the time, and then something else pops up.  I'm really hoping to get a halfway decent print of something by the end of the year.  I just need to figure out what.

----------


## chooch

It's been slow going on the mechanical side of things too, but I'm making headway. Got the one point leveling build plate working well now.

I actually built a custom FDM printer just to prototype parts for the Pegasus... that put things on hold for months.

----------


## fred_dot_u

Is your one-point leveling build plate similar to those that use a ball joint at the clamp location? From what I'd guess, one would drop the build plate into the vat with the clamp loose, then snug it down after making contact.

----------


## chooch

> Is your one-point leveling build plate similar to those that use a ball joint at the clamp location? From what I'd guess, one would drop the build plate into the vat with the clamp loose, then snug it down after making contact.


correct, I have pictures in the next thread:  http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ll=1#post96607

----------


## doobie

I released the bug fix for my galvo bug.  I'm also deciding I need to move all the Zaxis code into the PRU.  It isn't going to work being driven via IO in Linux.  I was having it move up and down as a test and I tried using the BBB for other tasks and I found a major change in performance.  I'm trying to understand how the FSL3D code might move.  There's a home sensor on the Z axis, but it isn't the bottom, you need to step beyond it, but to find it I'm not sure of a good method of seeking it, without going beyond it, I'll have to break out my PRU coding skills again and just make it happen.

----------


## doobie

Broke out my printer and resin.... for some reason my prints aren't sticking to the plate.  I get nice flat pieces where you can tell where different shapes should be....  :Smile:   Have a new run with increased time per exposure.  I'm also going to see about having longer first layer exposure time as well as possibly if I'm too close to the VAT for the first layer.

----------


## doobie

No luck getting it to stick.   :Frown:   Tried moving up, tried move down, tried running the laser longer on the first layer...nothing would work.

----------


## fred_dot_u

out of date resin?

----------


## doobie

I hope not, I just bought it a few months ago and opened it for the first time today.  Trying to figure out if I really am just too close or too far away from the vat when I try to do the first layer, but I've adjusted the distance many times with no luck.  The print sticks nicely to the VAT; which doesn't help.

----------


## fred_dot_u

my printer is yet in the box from the KS days, so I'm truly not the best reference. I can only go by what I read and imagine. How's the scruffy surface of the build plate? Perhaps a little roughing up? Call your local bar bouncers and have them... oh, wait, use some coarse sandpaper on it?

----------


## doobie

Reading some of the forums and it seems like for the first layer I really need it smushing down into the vat.  We'll try it again in the morning if I get time.

----------


## doobie

I went back to my original gcode object, I realized I switched.  I also lowered the build plate more.  It works a little better, but not fully sticking yet.  I did add the ability to open the lid when the head is lifted and it'll pause the print until you close it again.

----------


## doobie

Found another bug in my code.  I tried to enable running longer times on the first few layers by running the galvo multiple times, but I goofed and didn't realize I deleted the accumulated points the first time I ran it.  Running again and the lift seemed to "stick" on more layers as if it was actually working better.  We'll see a bit later.

----------


## doobie

Well looking better, my Z scale was off a lot (about 50%) and my x/y was about 4% off.  Adjusted settings and trying a new print.  Will try to post some pictures later.  Then once these are better I'll work on getting some prints with higher levels of details.

I need a bug tracker.....

1) Ensure Z never goes below previously printed spot
2) Check for open lid BEFORE starting the print.

----------


## doobie

Currently printing this object:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:99028  software says about 49 minutes.  575 layers, and 4357643 layer points  :Smile:

----------


## doobie

Ok, the cura sliced file wasn't very friendly to the printer, moving back to slic3r.  583 layers, 28,778,899 laser points.  1hr30m or so.  We'll see if it finishes.

----------


## doobie

Couldn't get the rook to print, went back to trying calibration style prints.  I think it may not have worked due to using cura (I haven't tried anything else with it).  I moved back to slic3r and things seem better with a number of things from thingiverse.  

Things I've printed well so far:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8757
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:56003
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1762827

From my trying to get prints to stick I tore apart the VAT lining so I'll need to redo that.  I see shadows of previous prints in all of my new ones  :Smile: 

Also, I started tracking issues I run into on the github page.

----------


## doobie

Code is really getting there  :Smile:   I just released a few updates to the github repo.  I feel like I'm close to getting the rook working.  the frame of the rook and the stairs came out really well, the spiral was missing and the top just didn't print.  Sadly I started a print and forgot it was printing so I had 100 layers printed directly on the VAT and wasn't careful when removing it and tore up the VAT lining, so I'll need to recoat.

----------


## doobie

Source code taking down (by me) for DMCA violations, but will have it back online in the next week or so.  I have it mostly functional again with my original non-borrowed code prior to finding the code on the printer.

----------


## lucaam86

Hi,
I'm new. I'm 3d modeller and I've got a Pegasus Touch 3D Printer.

I'm not an expert in computer science and in firmware tools.I would like to know if there is a way to use my Pegasus touch with other resins (eg resins formlab or other resins in general, makerjuice ecc...). How do I upgrade the firmware in order to make the open printer? How can i presever my actual configuration for restore it in case of problems during upgrade?Someone could step by step guide me?Currently is there a system in order to use other resins and can control the exposure time and other parameters when locked?
Thanks
I'm not an expert in computer science he firmware.I would like to know if there is a way to use my Pegasus touch with other resins (eg resins formlab or other resins in general). How do I upgrade the firmware in order to make the open printer?Someone could step by step guide?Currently there is no system in order to use other resins and can control the exposure time and other parameters when locked?

----------


## doobie

Hi Luca,

I tried getting in touch with you on the FB group you created then deleted, and also the OpenSLA community... but without being an "expert" at Linux and development, I would not recommend trying to use my firmware at this time.  You can backup the old one.  The best way to do this is to buy a second beaglebone black and install my firmware on the new BBB and leave the old one untouched.  

Theoretically once I get the software worked out it should be the ability to use any resin.  You would need to use a 3rd party slicing tool (I use slic3r right now and will provide the general settings I utilize).  

When and if I think my firmware is ready for more prime time beyond just anyone with the capability to test it out and help development, I might be willing to offer BBB's with the firmware pre-installed in which case all you need to do is swap the BBB's and you would be up and running.

----------


## lucaam86

> Hi Luca,
> 
> I tried getting in touch with you on the FB group you created then deleted, and also the OpenSLA community... but without being an "expert" at Linux and development, I would not recommend trying to use my firmware at this time.  You can backup the old one.  The best way to do this is to buy a second beaglebone black and install my firmware on the new BBB and leave the old one untouched.  
> 
> Theoretically once I get the software worked out it should be the ability to use any resin.  You would need to use a 3rd party slicing tool (I use slic3r right now and will provide the general settings I utilize).  
> 
> When and if I think my firmware is ready for more prime time beyond just anyone with the capability to test it out and help development, I might be willing to offer BBB's with the firmware pre-installed in which case all you need to do is swap the BBB's and you would be up and running.


hi doobie,
thanks for your reply.
have you an idea of the times for go to market of your bbb with firmware installed?

in this moment that I have the original firmware in my pegasus can I use some third year parts resin that 100% work on my printer? do you know some compatible resin with original firmware? funtodo is compatible? thanks

----------


## doobie

Any should be compatible once we identify the time/energy required for hardening (assuming the frequency of the laser can do the job).  My firmware gives full control for exposure time.

----------


## doobie

"Time to market".... I'm doing this in my spare/free time, which sometimes is easy to find, sometimes not.  It generally depends if I burn through my VAT or not with print failures or how well my calibration prints go and other objects.  Currently nothing will likely happen until I recoat my VAT which has been waiting for me to recoat it for a week.

----------


## Roger

I am glad to support your work - with cash or resin.  I traded for a Pegasus so that I could use the new ceramic resin.  No luck with FSL as they don't make that resin or provide even basic info on what of their products are similar.  I would be glad to buy a BBB with firmware and use Slic3r (as I do with other printers) when you get there.  Does anyone know the approximate intensity settings for the FSL resigns so I might guess?  Is there a way to test this with an etchable surface instead of the vat that has been tried? Thanks.

----------


## doobie

The calibration data in my git hub repo contains the settings I'm using with Maker Juice.  I'm trying to build a new VAT and have been busy with other projects and haven't had time to complete the VAT to do more testing.  Hopefully by the end of the year I'll make some more progress. I am debating buying a Form 2, and if I do that, i'm not sure how much more work I'll do on the Pegasus.

----------


## Roger

Doobie,
I am not sure if my last attempt at messaging you worked, so her it is again.  I have a new Pegasus VAT I am glad to donate to you in order to aid your finishing the BBBfirmware for that FSL3D machine. It is the https://fslaser.com/Product/PegasusPDMS.  I am anxious to use it with some new porcelin resin that FSL3D does not make and will not support.  Your work and work around could be a boost to my effort in designing a new gas heater element (with internal cavities best 3D printed).  I can send it out any time.  Just send me the address and name to roger.j@eidonllc.com.  Thanks for the effort to date. Roger

----------


## doobie

I thank you for the offer, I'll try to send you my address shortly.  The firmware does work fairly well last I ran it, I know a few things I need to tweak, but whatever I publish in the end will still need to be calibrated to your printer and specific resins.  I hope to have better details on how to do this, as of right now I'll have a bit of time around the up coming holiday's.  I also have the issue that even when I was using FSL's firmware the printer didn't work very well in the winter as my house generally isn't warm enough.  I moved the printer to a warmer area of the house and it's a smaller room so I can easily heat it a little bit warmer if needed.  

That sounds very cool about the porcelin resin?  Do you know how much energy it requires to set it?  That might give me an idea on how to adjust the calibration for you.

/Jason

----------


## Roger

IGood. The resin is called Porcelite and found it through Kickstarter. They are coming out with a generic resin to which you can add all sorts of powdered material - pretty cool. My design is patented and protects the heated UR surface with a thin dome while providing for cross flow exhaust heat recapture. Thus nearly doubled the IR from a gas element. I'll ship tomorrow once I get the address.  Do jet me know what BBB I need to get. Thanks.

----------


## doobie

Cool.  I will have to check out that resin.  I sent you an email.  I included info about the BBB.

For anyone else....here is info on the BBB (note: put hot glue in the power jack to prevent you from putting the 24v one in there, BBB's are NOT regulated).

I am currently using this BBB (Rev C):


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



I am planning to order this one soon so that I have build in WiFi (I think they won't be available for 3 months though):


http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...562-ND/6211000

----------


## doobie

Just received a BBB wireless.  I set it up, but am too tired to install it into the Pegasus.  That'll be for another day either tomorrow night or the weekend.  I updated documentation on the github.  Once I have this up and running I'll possibly try a second time to set it up and reorg/clarify the instructions....   Also, hopefully it will work with the 4.4.x kernel which I upgraded to rather than downgrading to 3.8.* as I was using before.

----------


## doobie

I printed a hollow pyramid again today (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8757).  It came out nice, except I goofed up and bumped the lid and missed part of one layer and a full layer or two on the supports.  I will need to work on better support for when the lid is open. For now I just put a magnet on the sensor.  I've always had alignment issues, but due to the loss of the layers it came out tilted a bit, but still looked good: https://twitter.com/CrazyNHMtnMan/st...09893854105601.  

I was hoping to print this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704409 tonight, but family took over.  Hopefully I can kick it off early in the morning.  If it prints well I'm going code up a quick z-axis alignment feature and then releaes the changes with documentation on how to enable a system with the firmware.  

Also note, that the company behind BeagleBone's released a WIRELESS version that is compatible.  I've been using it for testing since Friday night.  It seems to work well, but I think the kernel I setup is a little unstable, so I might either upgrade or downgrade.  I have the software working in the 3.8 *and* in 4.4.x kernels.  I would recommend the 4.4.x kernels, as the software does suck for 3.8.....   BTW, the pyramid took about 40 minutes to print.  I used a large amount of support structure than I previously used which I hope is why it took so long, but also I increased the time between laser points so it's a bit slower.  I was noticing the laser "dragging" from point A to point B if A and B were far apart.  I coded but haven't debugged something that will try to alleviate that by giving long moves more time before running the laser, but it hasn't run successfully yet.

Funny story...due to the long move delays I accidentally goofed up and coded something that made the laser/galvo do random things, it freaked me out when I ran it, because the laser started running super fast and moved randomly around and crashed my system.  When I rebooted the first thing was I manually disabled the galvo/laser to debug, then family called and 3 hours later when I went back to debug it forgot I disabled it and freaked out thinking I killed the printer.  Thankfully it's pretty resilient....

----------


## doobie

Latest code posted, I'll be printing something else at lunch time. Last night was busy and I didn't have time.

----------


## doobie

I printed the ball and socket item... I also created a dropbox here for images of prints

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/v4sj9ecdb...f4ZAepMca?dl=0

Gcode I used for the above (and any other calibration prints) will be posted here:

https://github.com/doobie42/OpenPegasusGcode

I do need to post my slic3r files I'm using, probably today or tomorrow I'll post them.

----------


## doobie

Well the male/female socket looked pretty good, but couldn't be put together, the female end broke when I tried to put them together.

----------


## doobie

I think I found the issue, I forgot to calibrate the X/Y axis, so it was elongated.  I ran through the calibration process on the galvo and aligned everything MUCH better.  It was computer generated before based on everything being symmetric. 

I may have found another issue, either my power supply is bad or the supply they shipped is on the verge of being powerful enough.  It is a 2.7amp supply @ 24v, and maybe the BBB wireless is using a bit more power than the BBB (non-wireless), but I seem to crash periodically.  Thankfully never during a print, but I'm going to see about upgrading my power supply.

----------


## doobie

Today my supply is working better.  I'm working on making a few gifts for my daughter for the holidays.  She loves sharks so I picked out a few things from thingiverse and am trying to print them.  So far I did a shark.  I'm not using supports, so I ran into an issue that to secure the print to the build plate I run the laser at 8x time for the first 8 layers.  That's a bit too conservative and I think I'm going to start trying to cut that down.  I have the shark comb in my UV box, when it comes out I'll take a picture of it.  You'll be able to see the over exposure from the first few layers.  I'll also keep notes posted for each print.  Some of them I used supports and some I did not.  I didn't like the supports I was seeing in slic3r and that is what I'm currently using, for better or worse.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/v4sj9ecdb...k%20gifts?dl=0

----------


## doobie

I put a new power supply on my printer and the Z axis runs very differently, the good news however is that I can just unplug the power cord from the outlet and not also the printer, then plug into the outlet, then into the printer as my old one did.  I wonder if the zaxis will end up working differently for different power supplies.  Could also be the reason I was having issues previously.  May likely do some improvement on the x-axis in the future as well.

Note: the calibration file has tuning values for the zaxis, I'll tweak them this evening after this print completes.  Hopefully if I can reinvent the zaxis code it won't vary from machine to machine or power supply to power supply, or whatever the issue might be that I'm having.

----------


## satgod

> I put a new power supply on my printer and the Z axis runs very differently, the good news however is that I can just unplug the power cord from the outlet and not also the printer, then plug into the outlet, then into the printer as my old one did.  I wonder if the zaxis will end up working differently for different power supplies.  Could also be the reason I was having issues previously.  May likely do some improvement on the x-axis in the future as well.
> 
> Note: the calibration file has tuning values for the zaxis, I'll tweak them this evening after this print completes.  Hopefully if I can reinvent the zaxis code it won't vary from machine to machine or power supply to power supply, or whatever the issue might be that I'm having.


Maybe you could add into the software a user input variable so it could be tweaked via software input

----------


## doobie

> Maybe you could add into the software a user input variable so it could be tweaked via software input


There is a calibration hook for it, I used it a bit and it sounded a little better, but I didn't validate it moved well.

----------


## doobie

Most everything without supports prints nicely, anything with supports fails.  I either need to figure out supports in slic3r or try a new slicing tool.

----------


## fred_dot_u

meshmixer (free) will add supports to an STL file, independently of the slicer

----------


## doobie

Thanks I used that and was able to print the flying shark finally.  I was also reading other forums that recommended mesh mixer.  The other forums also used Cura, but I liked slic3r because it could run on the BBB.  

I have been having issues with the wireless BBB black and am thinking of switching back to the wired version. 

I passed the flying shark picture online unfortunately I'm not a photographer so my pictures don't do justice to the prints.  They aren't perfect but I think pretty good.

----------


## doobie

Things seem to work pretty nicely on the prints I made for my daughter for the holidays.  I am seeing some issues where it appears a print after a period breaks off the build plate and sticks to the VAT.  I've seen this before many times, but I've never found a solution.  I've seen it in cavities without air relief (it likely makes a vacuum) as well as prints that are solid as they print and the newly printed layers are larger than the top layer on the VAT.  I've tried a number of things to fix this, but so far I haven't found a robust solution.  

I started using meshmixer to add supports instead of using slic3r; which I have not had success with supports yet.  I've found it does good for the raft/brim layers, but other than that it didn't do a good job for supports.

----------


## satgod

> Things seem to work pretty nicely on the prints I made for my daughter for the holidays.  I am seeing some issues where it appears a print after a period breaks off the build plate and sticks to the VAT.  I've seen this before many times, but I've never found a solution.  I've seen it in cavities without air relief (it likely makes a vacuum) as well as prints that are solid as they print and the newly printed layers are larger than the top layer on the VAT.  I've tried a number of things to fix this, but so far I haven't found a robust solution.  
> 
> I started using meshmixer to add supports instead of using slic3r; which I have not had success with supports yet.  I've found it does good for the raft/brim layers, but other than that it didn't do a good job for supports.



Slowing down a little ?

----------


## doobie

Wish, still busy; our boiler stopped working last week and I didn't get to diagnose it until Friday, but got the part today and we have heat and hot water again (woohoo!).  My wifes job has picked up so I've been minding the little one more at night so I haven't had much of free time to do anything.  At this point waiting for feedback, comments, and suggestions.  I'll take suggestions for items to try to print.

----------


## satgod

> Wish, still busy; our boiler stopped working last week and I didn't get to diagnose it until Friday, but got the part today and we have heat and hot water again (woohoo!).  My wifes job has picked up so I've been minding the little one more at night so I haven't had much of free time to do anything.  At this point waiting for feedback, comments, and suggestions.  I'll take suggestions for items to try to print.


I finally found some of the 24v supplies.
they are 24v 2amp

----------


## meryan00

Hey doobie I think its awesome that you are working on making the pegasus work for people who wont or cant work with FSL.  I admist this is my first time workign with a BBB and ive gotten all the way through the install doc you provided up until compiling the laser. the compile command seems to pull a zaxis.p that doesnt exist anywhere for me yet.  

Is there anyway to help make it a little more clear for a complete newbie on this board like myself?

----------


## doobie

Sorry, I'm wicked busy and haven't really done much on this project.  at some point I might find more time, but my resources are limited at this time.

----------


## TBone

Hi doobie, I just got a pegasus touch a couple weeks ago that was not used anymore. I would be interested in running it with your open source firmware to try different settings for the resins. With stock machine resins keeps staying uncured.

Could you tell me if you have any update since the commit from February 2017?

I have the BBB (ethernet not wireless) running, but as meryan00 pointed compile laser calls for a z-axis.p that is not present. I am not very familiar with pasm, but if you could point me toward a solution I could do some work and push it to the repo if I can help.

Looking next lines, dbg_zaxis.c does not seem to exist either.

pasm -b zaxis.p ../bin/zaxis
gcc -o ../bin/dbg_zaxis dbg_zaxis.c -lprussdrv -lm

I would love to make this thing work!

----------


## doobie

When I had time for this project not many people were interested, my printer isn't up and running now, but I have fixed some of the code as well as some others were providing updates/cleaning things up.  That particular fix should be corrected, so if you pull the code again you should get the fix.





> Hi doobie, I just got a pegasus touch a couple weeks ago that was not used anymore. I would be interested in running it with your open source firmware to try different settings for the resins. With stock machine resins keeps staying uncured.
> 
> Could you tell me if you have any update since the commit from February 2017?
> 
> I have the BBB (ethernet not wireless) running, but as meryan00 pointed compile laser calls for a z-axis.p that is not present. I am not very familiar with pasm, but if you could point me toward a solution I could do some work and push it to the repo if I can help.
> 
> Looking next lines, dbg_zaxis.c does not seem to exist either.
> 
> pasm -b zaxis.p ../bin/zaxis
> ...

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## Dgug77

> When I had time for this project not many people were interested, my printer isn't up and running now, but I have fixed some of the code as well as some others were providing updates/cleaning things up.  That particular fix should be corrected, so if you pull the code again you should get the fix.


So turned it on after 3 years this thing an fsl3d real crap. And it started this message then turns off and does it again until it just goes black screen.
Any luck on the custom program?
Otherwise its a $5k paperweight! Fsl3d has no parts wont give up where to get them and going to charge $100 to "try" to reflash.
Dont even know if the board is good!

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## fred_dot_u

My Pegasus Touch is still in the box as it was shipped back to me for a firmware upgrade (under warranty, minus shipping) a few years ago. With all the stuff I've been reading here, I don't know if it will ever be opened again.

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