# 3D Printing > 3D Printer Parts, Filament & Materials >  Sticks too well

## mrehmus

I have a new Qidi X-One printer that is very good. I am completely new to 3D printing.
Started using PETG on it at 75 degrees C Bed and 245 degrees Nozzle. The prints are quite good but I have a problem prying them off the bed even to the point of having to use a wood chisel to get some of the support structure for overhanging features off the bed.
Will just lowering the temperature of the Bed help or will that cause other problems?

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## Alibert

Do you let the bed cool off to room temperature before prying them off?

I print on glass with 3DLac (hairspray). When cooling, the parts pop off by themselves. I just have to wait approx 15-25 minutes.

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## mrehmus

Yes, I've allowed it to cool for hours and I've tried it when the printer just finishes.

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## Alibert

What is you bed material?

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## mrehmus

The surface is _3M's 9448A Double Coated Tissue Tape_ which is a nearly rigid 0.01" thick plastic with an adhesive backing to hold it to the heated aluminum plate bed. It is considered a consumable and has to be replaced when it becomes damaged.

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## Alibert

Well, that is your problem then. The acrylic adhesive on the top side (your printed part) will stick very strongly even at room temperature or below.  I am flabbergasted why anyone would suggest that stuff.

If your want to print in PETG I strongly advise to move to a glass bed and 3DLac (or the infamous brand of special hairspray if you live in the US). Works the best I have found for PLA/PETG/ABS so far and you get a mirror-smooth heatbed side which can work out really good for some parts. And as I said, when cooled down the parts just pop off.

You can also try Printrite (Printbite?) with which others have good experience. When cooling down the parts also pop off, and it also works on a range of plastics. Curious Aardvark has made a lengthy post on that stuff, just search for it on the forum here.

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## curious aardvark

your best option is printbite. 
sticks when the bed is hot, doesn't stick when it's cooled. 
Works for most filaments - currently best printbed material you can get - I've tried just about everything else. 

I even use the same settings you did for pet-g :-) 

Failing that I'd go for cheap pva gluestick. 
Has the obvious advantage over hairspray that you're NOT spraying hairspray :-)
Plus peels off easily, works for most things, and is dirt cheap. 
It can be tricky to get prints off, why i use printbite.
But with pva, I always found that if you heated the bed back up, you could get a scraper under one corner. Not like blue tape, I often had models richocheting around the room wth that, or with bits of blue permamently stuck to the bottom. 

Since i switched to printbite - I have had no problems, everything sticks everything comes off. shiny bottoms (lol) and no stress put on the model.

Like everything you need to determine you right settings for your setup. But once you've got it dialled in - it really is as easy as, print - remove, print, remove - no spray, glue, scrapers or need to ever replace it once it's on. Generally I can't be arsed to wait till the bed is cooled, so I just hit things (gently) with a hammer and that releases them.

Every new printer should come with printbite (and a heated bed), it'd be that one step closer to true pnp printing.

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## mrehmus

I will try Printbite. The Qidi came with a heated bed and the 3M plastic cover which is why I just went ahead and used it. Works quite well for PLA but obviously not so good for PETG (other than never lifting during the print process).
The Qidi is as close as one can come to PNP printing when using PLA. It works right out of the box, is *all* metal, and every buyer who has written a report on it claims it to be superb. I even received an e-mail from the Chinese company who built it thanking me the day after I ordered it from Amazon. 150mm cube build area and it weighs 47 Lbs. I had one failure (X-axis) and they sent me a new stepper with an improved cable, the tools, the little parts and a few free nozzles. The failure happened on a Friday and by the next Wednesday, they had the new parts in my hands here in NorCal.
Thanks for the information.

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## Todd-67

Glass bed is the best option as you can remove it and throw it in the freezer. I have 3 beds that I can swap out quickly. They can be taped over or use hairspray which works very well.

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## wirlybird

On the X-ONE if still using the blue sheet on the bed.  Try increasing your first layer height.  PETG doesn't like a squish and the blue sheet is like super glue!.  I can run 120% first layer with PLA on that stuff and get good adhesion.
Glass is a good choice but the X-ONE doesn't have any "conventional" way to hold the glass.  I have some printed clips that work pretty good.  I am also getting ready to try another method and see how it goes.

Another thing people do when using PETG on PEI bed is talcum powder or glue stick.  Do a google search on these to get info.

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## mrehmus

Thanks. Qidi gave me a glue stick but I haven't tried it with PETG.

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## Alibert

For the record, it is *not* blue tape he is using, but a *double-sided adhesive tape* (adhesive on *both* sides) as used for sticking name-plates permanently to walls etc. Just google it and be astounded




> The surface is _3M's 9448A Double Coated Tissue Tape which is a nearly rigid 0.01" thick plastic with an adhesive backing to hold it to the heated aluminum plate bed. It is considered a consumable and has to be replaced when it becomes damaged._

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## mrehmus

OK, so the adhesive for the plastic plate is the 3M product. That makes sense since the bed leveling gauge is another piece of the plastic which is 0.01" thick. The 'tissue tape' is certainly very sticky and hard to get off. 

Thanks for the clarification.

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## curious aardvark

gluesticks are good.

why is glass better than printbite ? 
i don't need to put it in the freezer, put anything on it or change plates even if I leave it to cool it only takes 10 minutes or so. 
I have one surface and no messing about.

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## Alibert

I think he means that glass is cheap and you don't even have to wait ten minutes....

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## wirlybird

So it works for you - good.  It is not everyone's choice.  For me it is not worth the expense due to the reports of poor ABS performance.

Glass can compensate for build plate irregularities.

I don't have to put glass in the freezer.  PLA will come off almost instantly as will PETG.  Having multiple glass plates means I can pull a print still on the glass and add a new glass and ready to go in  a minute.  This is especially good for ABS where I don't want to force the cooling.  I can set the print aside and let it cool slowly to avoid warping or cracking.
I also have glass plates with PEI on them for problem prints.
It gives me options.  This is what works and I know how it performs so I use it.






> gluesticks are good.
> 
> why is glass better than printbite ? 
> i don't need to put it in the freezer, put anything on it or change plates even if I leave it to cool it only takes 10 minutes or so. 
> I have one surface and no messing about.

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## Todd-67

> So it works for you - good.  It is not everyone's choice.  For me it is not worth the expense due to the reports of poor ABS performance.
> 
> Glass can compensate for build plate irregularities.
> 
> I don't have to put glass in the freezer.  PLA will come off almost instantly as will PETG.  Having multiple glass plates means I can pull a print still on the glass and add a new glass and ready to go in  a minute.  This is especially good for ABS where I don't want to force the cooling.  I can set the print aside and let it cool slowly to avoid warping or cracking.
> I also have glass plates with PEI on them for problem prints.
> It gives me options.  This is what works and I know how it performs so I use it.


Spot on reply. I have 3 beds. I only use the freezer for parts that get really stuck. It is nice when you can slap another bed on while a part cools. I almost always print with ABS. The glass just moves the entire process outside the printer while giving a nice finish.

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