# Specific 3D Printers, Scanners, & Hardware > CTC 3D Printers >  Nightmare start

## d43d

So my first start in 3d printing went as expected...  horrifically!

RTqTUS9.jpg


It seemed to start ok then everything was on the nozzle and being pulled and pushed around on the nozzle mid air..   I then killed the power and have not turned it back on since..


I bought this printer here..  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3511201525...530%26_rdc%3D1
I'm using the black PLA 1.75mm that came with it.


A couple of things that could be issues.. 


1)  I didn't receive filament guide/feed tubes..  so didn't use anything..  Any tips on what to buy?  Ebay doesn't appear to come up with anything apart from one source from Hong Kong..  presumably some tubing not unique to the 3d world is what I'm after..
2)  Firmware is 7.2
3)  I used makerware to load 20mm calibration box.  Then changed bed temp to 50 degrees.  Nozzle to 210 degrees.  Feed rate to 90mm/s.  
4) 0.2mm layer..  50% infill. 2 shell layers
5) Print bed was flat, although perhaps a little too tight to the paper?  I could push around but there was resistance..  


Am I right in assuming the nozzle is finished now?  I've bought another and can swap the left one to the right in the mean time..  would I have damaged anything else too?  


Any help greatly appreciated..

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## ServiceXp

I doubt there is anything wrong with the nozzle, you may need to clean it however. 

Questions:
1) Was the entire calibration cube moving around with the nozzle (got dislodged from the platform)?
2) When running a 'load filament' command, does the filament come out of the nozzle nice and straight?
3) What kind of build platform prep did you use? (Painters Tape, etc...)

The cube needs to be printed at 100% infill for proper calibration.


EDIT: It also sounds like you may have your platform trammed too close to the nozzle.  I don't think it should be scraping the build platform when moving the extruders around.

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## ServiceXp

Oh, and don't let this little bump in the road discourage you. It's problems like this where you learn the most.

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## EagleSeven

Just get the nozzle hot and wipe it clean with a rag.

Try settings of:

   "layerHeight": 0.33,
   "extruderTemp0": 205,

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## d43d

Thanks for the help..
1)  Yes it all had dislodged and was stuck on the nozzle in one piece.  So nothing was on the bed as it was moving around.
2)  Yes it did do..   not turned it on since as I thought I should get some advice first on what to do next..
3)  The red tape that came on the printer..  like painters tape yes..


100%.. ah ok.. will do in future..   thanks again.


Ok.. yes I'll not have the paper grip so tight the next time I align.. I guess I should have erred on the side of caution for the first run anyway.. better to be too far, than too close perhaps..

EDIT:  Ah missed your reply EagleSeven..   ok will do that now...  Is there any substance I should use?  I don't have a lot in the house at the mo but can venture out..   I do have 99% isopropyl alcohol if that's any help...


No worries..  I'll not let it discourage me..  Life would be boring if everything just worked perfectly.. you wouldn't have the fun of learning!




So.. you were me.. what would your next step be?  Unscrewing nozzle for a clean?  Running the unload sequence?

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## EagleSeven

No, just a Dry cloth should get it off , when it starts to melt.
A little on outside of nozzles does not hurt anything, as long as it's not dripping off  :Wink: 

I'm pretty sure the main problem was that the Layer-Height was too Low, if it was at .2
And temp was a little too high for PLA

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## d43d

Yes definitely 0.2mm as I didn't change that from the default in Makerware...   I'll up that 0.33mm put the temp down a bit to 205 degrees and give another attempt once clean..  
Thanks a lot guys and I'll keep you informed how it goes!

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## EagleSeven

> Yes definitely 0.2mm as I didn't change that from the default in Makerware...   I'll up that 0.33mm put the temp down a bit to 205 degrees and give another attempt once clean..  
> Thanks a lot guys and I'll keep you informed how it goes!


Yes, increasing height to .33 will let you know if that is the problem.
Then you can lower it a bit until you are happy with the results.
I've found that differences in nozzles require slightly different layer height and width settings.
(Not all .4mm nozzles are exactly .4mm, as an example)

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## ServiceXp

> Thanks for the help..
> 1)  Yes it all had dislodged and was stuck on the nozzle in one piece.  So nothing was on the bed as it was moving around.
> 2)  Yes it did do..   not turned it on since as I thought I should get some advice first on what to do next..
> 3)  The red tape that came on the printer..  like painters tape yes..
> 
> 
> 100%.. ah ok.. will do in future..   thanks again.
> 
> 
> ...



1,3) That's a problem. So is this Red tape *Kapton tape*? or some type or red painters tape? Kapton is good stuff; I have no idea about the Red tape. Hopefully someone with experience with Red painters tape can chime in if that's what it is. The blue painters tape is the default tape most use.

2) Run the *Load* Filament command, and make sure the extruded filament comes out nice and smooth and falls straight down (doesn't curl upward or wiggle a lot when extruding). This will let you know if your nozzle is clogged. 

You want the bed trammed close enough to apply a small amount of resistance when moving the paper between the nozzle and the bed. 

From there I would try Eagles suggestions.

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## d43d

Well definitely on the right path!  

It's cube shaped!  


On each layer some of the lines were quite 'lumpy' so to speak..  not sure what would cause this...




I'm not 100% sure what the difference between kapton tape and painters tape is.. This red tape seems a little smoother than the blue painters tape I'm used to.   
The print bed is something I've been wondering about.. I am fishting a losing battle with the red tape and should I just upgrade to the recommended setup?  


Yes load command runs great.. smooth.. no wiggle..  


I wonder if my last print could be a problem of the printer bed being a little too far away?  I was probably a little overcautious this time with the aligning..

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## bigo93

Yeah if you check out my thread you'll see I've been trying to improve my printing quality for over a month now! Thanks again to EagleSeven for all the help and tips.
Dont let these problems put you down, cos this wont be the first problem :P

So yeah I've had tonnes of bad prints.
Right now my right nozzle is still clogged I think, so I've had to use the left for now.

First thing to do is to check all the bolts. Mine came with all of them loose!

There are quite a few upgrades you can print for the printer as well.
Here's a few I have already printed or an thinking of printing: http://www.thingiverse.com/bigo93/co...s/ctc-upgrades

But what I would say is if you thought you got a good deal on the printer, you did but....you will not believe how much extra I have spent on other items for it!

For instance £18 on a second have Xbox Kinect 360.

I dont have too much time at hand atm to test my printer, and time I do have is late nights but cannot use it cos these printers are loud and wake up everyone!
I contacted my seller, most likely all the same sellers with multiple accounts. They claim to not send with the tubes cos they dont help much.
So I printed out the better extruder guide and bought my own.

But if you want here's a list of everything I have bought on top, they were the cheapest I could find on ebay. (For UK residents)

Spring Loader Arms: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1914493850...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Drill bits to clear nozzles (recomeneded by Angus on youtube still waiting delivery to try): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3316222844...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Extra nuts and bolts from this guy, next day delivery as well!: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3211133712...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Extra bearings: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2013838264...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Tubing for filament: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3214513331...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Push-In connectors: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3216379168...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
The above 2 are from the same seller, they sell 3D printer stuff so you might want to check out his other items as well

Pure Acetone (nail polish remover didnt work for me): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3315195964...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Cleaning Alcohol again from same guy: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3315845124...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Dial Gauge (For Bed Leveling, not tested yet): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3811754662...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Extra Filament from this guy: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3514489482...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Sample of different filament colours: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-75-mm-PL.../111874100907?
Laser temp gun (cos I dont think the temp on screen is the real temp of nozzle, still waiting for delivery): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2818972570...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

So that's like another £155 on top of the printer!
Obviously you dont have to buy any of these, just a helping hand to save time searching for stuff you might want in the future.


Oh and one other thing, seems like with every printer, they ship with the left extruder higher than the right, so you have to aligned them yourself.
If that is the case with yours, I found this video very helpful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jx4CsazHm8A

Be careful when taking it apart, unless you have plenty of room. Mines in a tight corner so kept losing a screw or washer, of the motor falling off and hitting the plate.
I've also upgraded to a glass plate and use ABS glue, and now my prints are sticking well, and printing better, but still not perfect.
I mean my glass plate is from a 8x10 photo frame, it's very thin and feel like it would snap if I flex it.
Got an old scanner, took it apart for parts and will hopefully cut the glass sheet from the scanner to fit the printer. It's thicker and stronger glass so will be better than the photo frame glass.


AND if you want to upgrade the frimware to sailfish, you can use this guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_Y9tCpsn3E
Follow it closely and make sure to pay attention, some people only follow it half way through and then wonder why their heating bed heats up and LCD doesnt work.

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## d43d

Amazing!  Thanks so much for the assistance!  And the fact it's co.uk makes it even better as I'm based in UK too!
I'm approaching this very much in the 'this printer has potential' rather than expecting it to be great out of the box, so I very much am on the same page as yourself when it comes to improving it.  


Funnily enough I have a flat bed scanner that I've been meaning to throw out as I never use it but now perhaps it would have some glass suitable inside...!  Either that or I was planning on seeing what sort of ebay places there are who could cut me some glass to specs..  I'm considering going slightly larger than the one on there if at all possible..  as it'd be great to be able to print larger items..   is there a downfall in my reasoning here?  




When it comes to actual printing at the moment..   would you say there's no point in trying any more settings as is?  Would I be better off waiting for the new stuff to arrive?  Or does my cube now exhibit certain issues that could be rectified better with a few settings changes?


I'll go through that list now and work out what to get..

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## ServiceXp

That is a great post by big, lots of good recommendations. My first upgrade purchase would hands down be Simplify3D. The 150 it cost is worth it's weight in gold/plastic...:-)  There is no other upgrade with as much bang for the buck then S3D.

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## bigo93

Oh and digital calipers are pretty useful as well.

I bought some for £26 from my local hardware store, but if you want you can choose the cheaper ones on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_fr...liper&_sacat=0


Remember some of the things are from China, takes 2-3 weeks to arrive.
Surprisingly I have never not received an item which has been posted from China, received them all!

Bulldog clips you will need, the 18 (15 small 3 large) pack from Poundland is useful and cheap.

I was going to add bronze bushings to my printer as I saw a video which says it makes the printer a lot quieter; but then read up that dist etc gets in between these and over time makes it harder to move, so decided not to.

Before you do anything else try printing a circular item, such as the washer in this list: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:193647/#files
Make sure it's actually round, not a bad oval like mine were.
I still need to print a but and a bolt from there to make sure the prints work and you can screw the bolt into the nut. I'll do that on Saturday I guess.

Oh and hairspray I think is OK for PLA, I bought some #5 Freeze Hold Tresemme; but ABS juice/glue is great for ABS



Here if a photo of my printer with mods
20160122_001725.jpg

As you can see the small bulldogs clips are OK to use on the bed extenders, and then 2 large ones on the left and right centres, and it holds the glass tight. No hairspray has been added between glass and plate though.
I've printed this holder for my dial gauge: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:222379
But my dial gauge is 0-10mm and is a little short.
So this weekend I will try to carve away a little bit from the top to allow the dial to sink into the piece, and the shaft fall all the way down.
atm if I add magnets to it, the dial still ends up a little short, without magnets it's fine but obviously moves too much.
Oh and the magnets from these you can get from some headphone speakers. If you have any old ones rip them apart, or buy some from Poundland. Different speakers will use different size magnets though.

The fan on the motherboard is apparently useless as well. So as other have suggested I have removed it altogther, and it's made the printer a lot quieter as well since that fan isnt shaking the little strip of wood it is mounted on.

And not done this one yet, but a cable chain upgrade: http://www.thingiverse.com/search/pa...able+chain&sa=
So many to choose from so not sure which one I will choose yet.

Also did your printer come with plastic pulleys like mine, or metal ones?

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## d43d

Awesome help once again! Thank you so much!

Plastic pulleys on mine.

I tried to print another example in the makerware list.. the teapot... but it only did a few mm before coming off the bed and doing its flying trick...
So am I right in assuming that I need to upgrade the bed/sticking arrangement before printing anything else..* 
Is there anything I could try immediately? I have 25mm blue tape but I'm not sure how to deal with edges of the many pieces or so it would take...* larger rolls seem to only go up to 50mm too.. so not sure..
I could head down B&Q now & pick up some of this if you think it'd help.. http://www.diy.com/departments/bq-ma.../246590_BQ.prd

Or would you try glue/hairspray on top of the red tape there already?* 

Or will I buy replacement glass immediately?* An ebay one perhaps?* Something like this?* Although I'm unsure of what size.. need to think how much is possible to extend it by... 

*http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/3D-Printer-B...d=520489936660

I have some calipers here and the cube I printed reads 19.90mm on both sides..* 

Will try the circle once I work out how to make sure the printer won't be dislodged while printing...*

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## ServiceXp

Remove existing tape, and use your Blue Painters tape, edge to edge so you get a nice flat surface.  If you still have adhesion problems try raising the bed a hair bit more. You want that fist layer to get squashed good between the bed and nozzle.

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## Sebastian Finke

1) Calibrate your extruders! See the Sailfish sticky here and in the Flashforge forum. Chapter 5.

2) Create custom profiles in Makerware. DO NOT use the default profiles.

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## d43d

Hi guys,
So I had another attempt at the 20mm cube..  with the red tape removed, and replaced with the blue painters tape from B&Q,     
The start line that it does to clear the nozzle (I presume?)  it doesn't seem to be working 100% affectively and as such, when it starts the cube, there is excess plastic dropped on to bed where it starts printing..   is this a temperature of nozzle problem?

Also I bought these..  http://www.diy.com/departments/colou.../176290_BQ.prd
Perhaps they are useful as a bed?  They're 3mm thick.   However when placed on the aluminium plate, they are too high for the nozzle..  even after lowering the screws on the bed..  How do people tackle this?

I tried on the blue painters tape and it sticks better for sure!  
Although the quality was roughly the same as before..  
Then I tried 200 degrees, and the quality was worse..  gaps in layers..

Now I'm trying 210 degrees 0.33mm height.. but unheated bed this time...
Still seems like there's gaps in layers...  Although no weird dripping plastic at the start...


EDIT.. ah didn't see your reply Sebastian.. will look into that now..  many thanks...   For Makerware at the minute, I'm using the standard PLA, then changing temperatures/layer height etc..   if I save a profile.. how do I then edit that profile?  It tells me it doesn't know how to open miracle.json -  do I just use notepad?

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## bigo93

I wouldnt have bought those mirrors, B&Q are expensive as hell!

And yeah, I had red tape on mine as well, but it loses adhesion very quickly, hence why your prints are coming off as well.

I then used normal masking tape and cheap pritt stick from poundland.
I then printed these bed extenders: http://www.thingiverse.com/bigo93/co...s/ctc-upgrades
There are only 2 files but you need 2 of each print.

And then as I said, again from poundland, buy a 8x10 inch photo frame/mirror
The photo frame glass is very thin as I said, not sure how thick the mirror one is though so you might want to get that instead. But my guess is same thickness.

So once you finally get the extenders printed, add them and the glass.

If you are using PLA then buy some hairspray or use the pritt stick on the glass. 
I've used more ABS for my parts as it has a higher melting temp than PLA.
Even though printing these upgrade parts in PLA is OK, I'd rather stay safe and print with ABS since some pieces are close to the hot areas of the printer.

Since installing my glass plate and buying the pure acetone, I have used ABS juice.
And since then not had a single print come loose.

If you get thicker glass you then need a shim to place at the back on the Z axis: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:911247/#files
You need to print the Adapter and the required shim for whatever thickness your glass is.
The adapter goes on the wooden bit, then the shim into the slot of the  adapter.
What this does is push the Z axis switch earlier when you level the bed to compensate for the extra thickness of the glass you use.


To alter makerware profiles, you need to create a custom profile first. This then allows you to click Edit in Text Editor when you click advanced.
This opens it in wordpad and you can edit and save it there.

Again as these are cheap printers, the thermocouples are cheap ones as well.
This means that the temperature may not actually be the temperature the printer says it is.
Thats why I'm buying that laser temp gun. As well as for fun.

Oh and if you ever need a belt tension spring, try this first: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgOsRUsS4VI

Then there is calibration that needs doing.  
I found this link http://www.instructables.com/id/Cali...imal-filament/
But no idea how to save the new steps/mm to the printer.

Just found this link https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1623
Gonna try the trial of S3D when I get my printer as ready as much as I can, then try this then.

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## d43d

Yes, they're dear.. but I had to go B&Q anyway so justified it as each mirror was £3 something.. so not toooo bad..!    I picked up some hairspray now too..

I printed a little more yesterday and everything is sticking well now to the blue tape..   however..  I'm having a problem with the top face always..  


What could cause this do you think?

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## bigo93

I think that's overheating, but not sure, not had it happen to me yet, but I've only done small prints so far.

This link seems useful for checking stuff like this: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/p...oubleshooting/

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## Sebastian Finke

> f I save a profile.. how do I then edit that profile?  It tells me it doesn't know how to open miracle.json -  do I just use notepad?


You can use Notepad. You can also install Proftweak (google the link, don't have it with me). It acts as a front end toMakerware profiles. Again, the default Makerware profiles are garbage. Stay away.

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## bigo93

Can you set the step/mm to calibrate the motors in Proftweak?

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## Sebastian Finke

For the extruder? That's not how the extruder is calibrated. Read chapter 5 in the Sailfish manual.

For the steppers controlling the axial motion? Select the correct printer in the Machine menu. In your case Replicator 1 Dual.

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## bigo93

But doesnt that select a general default setting, not the setting for the individual printer?

My stepper is off by a bit along the X axis. Makerware claims to write to printer when you change it there, but it never seems to save to printer so when I restart printer it goes back to old values.

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## d43d

It seems to be the feedrate that is messing my top layer up..  more specifically the infill rate I think.. 
I had it at 90, but it just seems to not have control over the stream of plastic and it all ends up sticking up and a mess...
Having changed it to 40, everything seems more or less smooth on the top layer...

Is this a sign of a problem somewhere else..?

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## bigo93

I've printed at mnakerware's default standard settings which is also 90mm/s and not had any issues.

What temperature you printing at?

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## d43d

I've tried 200 205 and 210..  All the same really..  Although 200 didn't seem hot enough..

On the load command now, and the line it does before printing.. the extruder does sort of a chugging sound and prints the line not smooth. It has gaps in it.  
Not sure what could cause that, but that could be the problem..

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## bigo93

That sound either means there is a clog in your nozzle or extruder, or the extruder motor is having problems feeding the filament.

Most likely a clog in the nozzle try to print with the other nozzle and see if the same happens.

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## curious aardvark

by 'feedrate' do you mean the actual printspeed ? ie 90mm/s 

because that's much much too fast. 

basically ignore any speed makerware gives you and change it to a number somewhere between 40-60
That's your best print speed range. 
At a pinch you can print at 75mm/s, anything faster than that is going to cause serious issue - as well as shaking the printer like a bastard :-) 

Also you need to slow the travel sped as well. somewhere between 60-90 is ideal. NOT 150 :-)

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## d43d

Thanks guys.. 
That's good to know that the speed that prints well is around the correct ballpark..  I was worried that it should be doing something similar to the defaults in Makerware.


I think I've found the problem with the nozzle/extruder chugging...   it goes away if I use my hand to hold the filament straight up as it goes into the extruder..  if I let it go and the bend radius gets too small as it slacks, then the chugging starts..  


I presume a filament feed tube will cure this problem..  

So the plan is, as previously recommended by bigo93, use this tubing.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3214513331...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


Then connect it with these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3214513331...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


And print this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:340031


However, as the print quality isn't great at the moment and I'm printing only PLA at the moment, I'm a little unsure if I'll be able to print the filament holders in good enough quality to get them to work well..  Perhaps I can use a cable to tie temporarily or something to the main cables...  will have an experiment...

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## bigo93

That shouldnt really be happening, even if the filament is drooping to the side, the stepper should still pull the filament.

It could be the position of the filament feeder, the black block.

Whilst taking mine apart to level teh nozzles etc, I found that once I couldnt not feed the filament though as easily as before I took it apart.

So what I did was remove the fans and heatsink, loosen the screws on the blocks and then all a little force to push the block to one side before tightening the screws again.

At one side I could not feed the filament at all with my hand, of the other side it went through very easily.

So I think your block has be tightened too far to the loose side, so do the above but make sure you move the block to the right side.



I've not added or tested these yet either, so if the above doesnt help these should hopefully
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1914493850...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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## EagleSeven

> I think I've found the problem with the nozzle/extruder chugging...   it goes away if I use my hand to hold the filament straight up as it goes into the extruder..  if I let it go and the bend radius gets too small as it slacks, then the chugging starts..  
> 
> I presume a filament feed tube will cure this problem..


Yes, the filament Guide-tubes are Needed !
(Anything that will Help the 'free & easy' Movement of filament Is Needed ! )
(the tubing-fittings that screw into extruder-assembly, at end of tube, are Not needed though)

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## d43d

So definitely gettin there!  I just did a little test.. solid disc type shape.. 14mm diameter by 5mm..  (same as previous tests) and with the filament loosely cable tied to the main cable run, the filament no longer slipped/tugged at all and was smooth..  This coupled with the slower speed 40mm/s and travel at 80mm/s, has gotten a good result. 

http://oi68.tinypic.com/15nayqf.jpg

There still is a couple of issues..  
1)  On every circular rotation there's kind of an jerky and so that is reflected in the 'seam' type effect along the edge..   Is this normal?  A mechanical fault?  Slicer fault?  

2)  Then the top is a little bumpy at the end (or start?) of each line..  Is this a cooling issue?  Is this where people  say to use a fan to cool PLA?  Is this related to issue 1 perhaps?


Thanks for the tips..  I've not levelled my nozzles yet..  still just using the right nozzle.   
What is the advantage of that feeder upgrade?
Has anyone done the supports for the back rod upgrade as described here?  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXOmesjMbfU _(EDIT: Having read another thread, it appears these are not needed)_
Also I've heard that lithium grease is good to stop noise?  Anyone done this?  Mine's only noisy really when it raises the bed..

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## EagleSeven

The pillow-block bearings on rods are Not needed.
(As long as Ends of rods and pulleys are not loose )

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## bigo93

idk if you might me interested in this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Huntik-Tra...oAAOSwbdpWZDR-

Poundland had quite a few of these in my local store.
I bought 2. One to use as a deskmat for my keyboard and mouse, and the second I am going to use to put my printer on.

The mat sticks pretty well to my table and requires some force to move.
So instead of getting some rubber feet for your printer this mat might be cheaper, seeing as it's £1 from Poundland, dont buy from the ebay link thats just to show you what it looks like.

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## bigo93

Oh dont buy the laser IR temp sensor, it doesnt work with the printer :/

Apparently bed is too reflective and you cannot change settings with the sensor I linked.
And nozzles are too small to get a reading from.

Well at least it has a laser I can annoy my cat with which uses AAA batteries instead of button ones.

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## d43d

Ah yes it seems like it'd be a little difficult to take a reading of the nozzle accurately..   
I do have some temperature probes..  but not sure about sticking them in a nozzle!  Although for a bed reading, I guess they'd work well..


What is the rubber legs/mat for?  Just for stability?  I've not noticed any vibrations as such..  but I have some rubber sheet actually which I could put under it..  


I've just checked out this video..  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHnbkRm9IGg and am amazed that software can make that much difference..  Perhaps if each software was taylored and tweaked, each could do the same?  However, it's making me consider getting simplify3d...


I've not taken the plunge yet to ABS..  I hear changing can be tricky with regards to clearing nozzle..  
Also, I'm wondering if I should use some perspex or somethingto close up the printer so the temperature is better for ABS...

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## d43d

I was printing fine lately with every print coming out exactly how I wanted but I've run into a snag again..   half way through the last 2 prints, the extruder stopped extruding.  Then when I cancelled the prints and tried a 'load filament', still there was no extrusion.  I could push filament through ok but it wouldn't push it through itself.  Any ideas of how to rectify this?  The motor is turning.. I'm using stock extruders as the recommended spring ones don't appear to be in stock.

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## EagleSeven

> I was printing fine lately with every print coming out exactly how I wanted but I've run into a snag again..   half way through the last 2 prints, the extruder stopped extruding.  Then when I cancelled the prints and tried a 'load filament', still there was no extrusion.  I could push filament through ok but it wouldn't push it through itself.  Any ideas of how to rectify this?  The motor is turning.. I'm using stock extruders as the recommended spring ones don't appear to be in stock.


Teeth of drive-Gear, on motor, may be full of filament plastic.
Remove motor and Clean gear-teeth with x-acto or other sharp-pointed knife.

Also make sure Gear is Not loose and spinning on motor-shaft.
(some stepper-motors have a Flat on shaft,
 but some do Not and gear can spin, when pressure is applied by filament)
(if no flat on shaft you may want to file one)

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## d43d

All looks clean.. and the set screw seems nice and tight..  yes there's a flat..  

I  wonder if this might be a good opportunity to upgrade the extruder...   as I hear clogs happen more frequently with these type of extruders with  teflon tubes..   Maybe an all metal is the way to go..  or even  something like the E3D-v6 perhaps?   I'd love to be able to print faster  if it's at all possible..

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## Geoff

> All looks clean.. and the set screw seems nice and tight..  yes there's a flat..  
> 
> I  wonder if this might be a good opportunity to upgrade the extruder...   as I hear clogs happen more frequently with these type of extruders with  teflon tubes..   Maybe an all metal is the way to go..  or even  something like the E3D-v6 perhaps?   I'd love to be able to print faster  if it's at all possible..


It's not the extruder, this the cruddy pipes they use. I am swapping mine out for teflon coated pipes. My printer blocks daily. 

Why they would skimp on a $2 part god knows.

Oh that's right "from online videos we have seen, it's not necessary" well, I can tell you, it is - but I think you have already figured that out hey d43d  :Smile:

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## d43d

Which pipe did you order?  I replaced the extruder feeder with a spring loaded one and now it just clicks.. I can force filament through with my hand but by itself it just clicks as filament comes through erratically.  I also changed the PTFE tubing but no luck..  At this stage I'm thinking an all metal hotend could be in order?  But how do I know if it'll fit the CTC?  Are they standard?  Any recommendations from people who have swapped one out?

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## EagleSeven

> Which pipe did you order?  I replaced the extruder feeder with a spring loaded one and now it just clicks.. I can force filament through with my hand but by itself it just clicks as filament comes through erratically.  I also changed the PTFE tubing but no luck..  At this stage I'm thinking an all metal hotend could be in order?  But how do I know if it'll fit the CTC?  Are they standard?  Any recommendations from people who have swapped one out?


Are you sure the feeder Gears are the correct size and type ?
There are many different sizes, that are only slightly different.
(needs to be type with straight teeth, Not type with Groove in gear)
We do not have that problem with our CTC,
which has spring type extruders and no inserts in tubes !

click pic for larger view, of type we use :

ExtruderUpgrade2.jpg

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## d43d

Thanks for the help.. The extruder in your pic there is the same as the one I bought.   
The brass gear though is different to the one that came with my printer.  
I have three here.. I've just put back in the one that came with the printer (the silver coloured one - I cleaned it up of course)


Could the state of the original gear hold the clue to what's happening?  


I've tried two different gears and the slightly bigger/sharper one clicks more often.  The original one waits a 30 seconds or so and then clicks. 




gear.jpg

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## EagleSeven

> Thanks for the help.. The extruder in your pic there is the same as the one I bought.   
> The brass gear though is different to the one that came with my printer.  
> I have three here.. I've just put back in the one that came with the printer (the silver coloured one - I cleaned it up of course)
> 
> 
> Could the state of the original gear hold the clue to what's happening?  
> 
> 
> I've tried two different gears and the slightly bigger/sharper one clicks more often.  The original one waits a 30 seconds or so and then clicks. 
> ...


The original gear pictured Definitely Needed Cleaning !
The gear size and type must Match the design of the extruder and the Pulley in it.
The brass gear pictured has larger and Fewer teeth than the brass gears that came with ours
but I don't know if that makes much difference or not.
I think More teeth would help though.

The brass gear appears to have slightly larger outside diameter ?
If so, then I doubt the original gear would fit  the new spring type extruder ?

Does the Gear Hit the Pulley ?
They should not touch each other when filament is going thru,
but should fit tightly together when No filament is between them.

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## d43d

It's about 0.2mm bigger in diameter.  The spring extruders didn't actually come with gears..  The brass ones I have came with two other spring extruders which didn't fit.  

I've taken the nozzle off again now and cleaned the nozzle out with a small drill bit..   A quick test on the filament load program for 30 seconds hasn't clicked yet but I will try again tomorrow to see how it is..  a little late for 3d printer noise here unfortunately..

EDIT: It fits tightly when no filament yes..  however I didn't check to see what it was like when filament was loaded.. I had put the fan back on by then..   Can do tomorrow..

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## d43d

No luck.  Just the same thing..  clicks then it even stopped extruding all together..  when I pushed hard i would extrude..  then after a while it started again.. with clicking..  
Any ideas what could be wrong or what I need to check/replace next? 
Whilst it's clicking, if I pinch the filament it still extrudes.. so I don't think it's slipping as such..

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