# Specific 3D Printers, Scanners, & Hardware > RepRap Format Printer Forum >  Hotend leaking issues

## MasonGerald

Anyone know of a solution to prevent leaking/seepage issues of PLA in the hotend?  I've tried tape but it doesn't work too well.  I should probably upgrade my hotend, but I don't have the money right now.  Are there any gaskets or anything that could work?

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## Vanguard

What brand of hot end do you have ?  Hot ends is what I do.  BTW, there are no gaskets, tape or other sealers that effectively work, but if I know what breed I am working with, I can probably suggest a solution.  Where is it leaking at ?  Possibility of pictures ?

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## BakerEvan

I would just suggest buying a better hot end.  That's not something you want to cheap out on.

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## Keith

There is a setting in Slic3r that helps avoid dribbling, its effect is to retract the filament slightly, a settable amount, it then automatically adjusts itself on continuing.

The dribbling problem occurs when the head moves from one part of the print to another without printing, it can create a small but annoyingly visible blob of material when it restarts the print, the retraction avoids this.

I don't know if any of the other slicers have this setting, I haven't used any other since 2011 but it would seem such a simple solution to the problem that other software authors would include it in their programs.

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## Gowtham

Try Using *Teflon tape* (yellow color cloth like material) if your hot end is leaking with the joints of the Nozzle, Teflon tape can prevent the leakages, It is much cheaper and stick it to the metals in good conditiont1 teflon tape.jpg, I use it for my Nozzle, which have three Brass blocks to assemble the complete nozzle

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## Kingoddball

Setting for the PLA could be too high?
Many PLA's need different temps.

Could be an incorrect thermistor reading for heat?

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## brisinger

First thing that comes to mind is you need to lower the temperature of your hotend. Not all filaments and colours run at the same settings.
I, personally, have tuned mine down until it stopped seeping at all and then set it to about 5C higher. You might get a slow seepage but this helps to stop the hotend from clogging up.

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## BKTarHeel

> There is a setting in Slic3r that helps avoid dribbling, its effect is to retract the filament slightly, a settable amount, it then automatically adjusts itself on continuing.
> 
> The dribbling problem occurs when the head moves from one part of the print to another without printing, it can create a small but annoyingly visible blob of material when it restarts the print, the retraction avoids this.
> 
> I don't know if any of the other slicers have this setting, I haven't used any other since 2011 but it would seem such a simple solution to the problem that other software authors would include it in their programs.


What's the setting?  Does it just move the nozzle up a bit?  I have a problem, which is what I assume the OP is talking about, where the nozzle leaks out 3-10mm of material as the bed or hot end is heating, making a little blob or tangle that interferes with my first few layers.  I don't see how moving the nozzle will fix that.

Thanks for your help on this, everyone.

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## BlackDragon

BK, I've seen that in several demo videos. It looks like the extruder is pulling filament to prime everything.  The user will usualy just scrape it off the nozzle with a putty knife before the print head drops.

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## nglasson

I beg to differ on gaskets.  I had PLA leakage issues with my Budaschnozzle.  It was difficult to get it sealing with teflon tape.  PLA would slowly leak up the threads of the nozzle and the heater block then eventually drip onto the print.  I found myself periodically wiping liquid PLA off the top of the heater block.  My eventual fix was to install a small copper washer to seal between the end of the threaded tube and the inside flat face of the nozzle.  The copper washer was annealed first by heating to red hot and cooling.  I also filed 7.5mm square flats on the thread just above the heater block so I could get a thin spanner onto the threaded rod and really crank the nozzle on with a 13mm spanner.  You can see the flats and the thin spanner I use in the photo.  The copper washer has totally solved the PLA leakage issue.  I also fitted the nozzle with some teflon tape to make it easier to remove but so far I have not had to.    I am into classic and vintage cars and have always used annealed copper washers to seal sump plugs.
P1020093.jpg

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