# Specific 3D Printers, Scanners, & Hardware > RepRap Format Printer Forum >  Prusa mendal I2 Pronteer face Marlin error

## jakers181008

Hello people,


I have a prusa mendel I2 printer with a ramps 1.4 board, with one extruda and one heat bed and a Ramps GADGETS3D Sheild. Marlin firmware

My issue is when i connect up my printer to pronterface with it plugged into power and usb, it comes up with this on the side console: 

**********************************
**********************************
Connecting...
start
Printer is now online.
echo: External Reset
Marlin1.0.0
echo: Last Updated: Nov 11 2014 20:33:05 | Author: (none, default config)
Compiled: Nov 11 2014
echo: Free Memory: 5246  PlannerBufferBytes: 1232
echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded
echo:Steps per unit:
echo:  M92 X78.74 Y78.74 Z533.33 E836.00
echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
echo:  M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z5.00 E25.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
echo:  M201 X9000 Y9000 Z100 E10000
echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration
echo:  M204 S3000.00 T3000.00
echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s),  Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s),  E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
echo:  M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z0.40 E5.00
echo:Home offset (mm):
echo:  M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:PID settings:
echo:   M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00
Error:0
[ERROR] Error:0


: Extruder switched off. MAXTEMP triggered !
Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)
[ERROR] Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)
**********************************
**********************************

And the bit that concerns me is the obvious part " Error:Printer stopped due to errors. "


i have a Acer Aspire 64 bit laptop which i'm using, the printer is set to 115200 baud rate on port 5.  here is my copy of firmware which i'm using just incase it is something in there. 
My Marlin.zip


Also before i was using splinter or something along those lines, and there was no error (but the motors wouldnt move, but make a noise like it was jammed or not strong enough. but since i got the LCD shield i read that i needed marlin, (hoping this would kill two birds in one) but it seems to have created an error. as seen above.

i hope you guys can help me, if you need to you can email me at Jakers181008@gmail.com 

if i've missed anything out please just say and i'll fill in the gaps  :Smile: 


Thanks in advance

Kind regards
 - Your helpless amature 3D printer owner (Jake B)

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## printbus

The error being reported is MAXTEMP triggered.  The leads for the hot end thermistor are likely shorted together or the configuration.h file hasn't been set up properly for your printer. What is pronterface reporting as the hot end temperature?

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## jakers181008

Hi Printbus,  


please find screen-shot of the temp graph seconds after connecting the printer. is there a way to check the quality of the thermistor as this was a pre built hot end, would it be something in the firmware that could be causing this as it didn't come up with this error while i had splinter or something like that (sorry forgot if that is actually the name)

Untitled.jpg

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## printbus

The screen shot came out too small to be readable.  I do question some of the configuration.h settings in your firmware zip file.  You have motherboard type 33 set up, and later these definitions - 

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 -1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0

The -1 on TEMP_SENSOR_0 says the hot end is measured through an AD595 chip. Is that true? If not, change the -1 to the value for the thermistor your hot end supposedly uses.  There's a table in the configuration.h file with values; repraps are usually set for a value of 1.  

Motherboard type 33 means there's only one extruder, so TEMP_SENSOR_1 should be set to 0.  

If your printer has a heated bed, TEMP_SENSOR_BED should be changed to the value for the thermistor used on the bed.  Again, repraps are usually thermistor type 1, but it depends on what the manufacturer used on your heat bed.

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## jakers181008

AHH thank you i will try that right now, thanks!

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## jakers181008

hmmm.... not sure why this has happened but:...

avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer

----------


## printbus

Well, I do know that a STK500 is one of the hardware programmers that can be used with the Atmel AVR chips, and avrdude is the software usually used to communicate with either the hardware programmer or the Arduino board USB port.  I have no idea why your environment would be trying to use the STK500 instead of the USB port.

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## jakers181008

ALRIGHTY THEN got it working,..... unplugged it and plugged in back in. but now the board fine playing a really loud beep because there is the error on screen. so there is still the error :MINTEMP on the board now, any other suggestions? :/

The deeping is coming from the LDC shield

connected it to pronterface and came with this:

*******************************
*******************************
Error:0
[ERROR] Error:0


: Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered !
Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)
[ERROR] Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)


echo:SD init fail

----------


## jakers181008

Update:

Just sent the M999 command, and this is the results:

********************************
********************************


>>>M999
SENDING:M999
Resend: 1
Error:0
[ERROR] Error:0


: Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered !
Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)
[ERROR] Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)

----------


## printbus

OK, so now you're getting the MINTEMP error. This suggests the hot end thermistor isn't connected to the RAMPS board where MARLIN expects it.  (MAXTEMP indicates the thermistor is shorted out, MINTEMP indicates the thermistor is open or not connected).  Is the hot end thermistor plugged onto the T0 connector on RAMPS, and the bed thermistor (if you have a heated bed) plugged onto T1?

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## jakers181008

HA funny thing is i had unplugged it thinking that will solve the maxtemp..... (n00b here) anyways i will test and get back to you.  :Smile:

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## jakers181008

Hi, just got back to my printer and it now connects, still making that beeping noice from the lcd board, but i'm unplugged that now as that is annoying the hell out of me. so i've connected the printer with pronterface now with no errors, and while testing, the only thing that is actually working is the heated bed, got it to about 60 degrees last i checked. 
first thing, is that the extruder isn't heating up..
second, non of the motors are working. they just make a loud noise

what have a set wrong now...? :/


Cheers  :Smile:

----------


## printbus

Did you ever say where you got your Marlin firmware?  The good thing about Marlin is that it is very flexible - it is configurable to support a wide range of printers. The bad side of Marlin is that you have to either find a variation pretailored for your printer or you have to spend time working through all the configuration details. My guess is that there is a lot of work to do to get Marlin properly configured for you.  An earlier post of echo output indicated SD init fail. The extruder heater not working and issues with the beeping could be signs of output pins being incorrectly mapped.  Motors are just making noise because you might be trying to drive them too fast. 

When you get the LCD beep, what is displayed on the bottom line of the LCD screen? The bottom line is for status messages from Marlin.  Maybe there's a hint there on what the beep is about.  I'd personally work through that issue first, since an error condition might be inhibiting what Marlin allows you to do with the printer.  

One thought would be to start with a copy of the Marlin firmware preconfigured for MakerFarm reprap printers here - http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...s-enhancements. If nothing else, compare the details of the configuration.h and pins.h files between that firmware and your firmware.  Where there are differences, you'll have to research or come back with questions on what would be the best for your printer.  Right now, of course, we know little about what you actually have for a printer.  

I'm in the middle of a number of unrelated projects, and the next several days won't provide me the time to dig into your files more than I have.  Maybe someone else can jump in and help.

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## jakers181008

Hiya, thanks for the help printbus, on the lcd at the bottum it actually says mendal ready, but still making  the beeping, i'm guessing that is because it doesnt have an SD card in yet, dont want to put one in yet just in case. i'm sorry but i dont remember where i got the firmware from, i just had a look at the one you have linked, but it seems that it is for I3 for a different printer with auto bed level... far from what i have  :Smile:  i have this make here: http://www.nextdayreprap.co.uk/prusa...free-download/ only difference is the Ramps 1.4 with lcd sheild i got this one here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3607855687...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

hope this info helps out finding an issue, i can post more pics or videos if you guys wants some of the build? just say what you need to see and i'll upload it for you  :Smile: 


Thanks for all the help, i have gotten much further in the last week than i have since last christmas....

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## printbus

Lack of an SD card shouldn't be a problem. I run Marlin that way all the time.  Although dacb's fork has the auto leveling capability, it is something that is easily disabled in the configuration.h file. As best I can tell, an I3 printer is just a mechanically improved version of the I2, and the I3V uses a v-rail instead of the linear rods and bearings.  Stepper motors and belts are still used in the same places.  My point was that starting with something like the MakerFarm build would likely get you closer to a working version of reprap prusa firmware with RAMPS/LCD/SD than a fresh download from the Marlin source.  Would you be able to use it exactly as is? Maybe not. Differences in gear ratios and threaded Z rods might lead to some tweaking. And I haven't looked at your LCD panel to see if it's different.

----------


## Roxy

> Although dacb's fork has the auto leveling capability, it is something that is easily disabled in the configuration.h file.


Just as an interesting technical tidbit...   If you are running an Auto Bed Leveling version of the firmware...  You should be able to use it on a non-Auto Bed Leveling platform.  You just don't do a G29 to generate a correction matrix.   So what I'm saying is...  You could use the fork without turning off the Auto Bed Leveling.

----------


## printbus

So no one else jumped in.  I did look at the pin mapping a bit, and nothing jumped out as wrong.  In your configuration.h, the mechanical DEFAULT SETTINGS starting at row 493 are likely going to require tailoring for your printer's number of gear teeth, Z axis screw threads, etc.  The speed and acceleration values all seem high. Starting at row 330, the ENDSTOP INVERTING values are set to true; this could be right or wrong depending on how your endstop switches are wired.

Can you elaborate on the beep? Is it present all the time? Or it starts only when you try to do something and if so, doing what? Does it repeat? If so, how often?  There should be small hole in the front of the buzzer - cover the hole with a piece of tape to dampen it while you're trying to figure it out.  

Did your LCD supplier instruct you to use the G3D_PANEL LCD type in configuration.h? If not, try using REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER instead.  That'll invoke a different pin assignment for the beeper - one of the things you're having issues with.

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## jakers181008

one thing i can tell you now, it is a very high pitch beep and and it is constant but stops for a split second then continues. and it's as soon as the board is plugged into the computer. but omg thank you did not thing of putting something over the beeper XD i was going insane, now it's just about do-able. i will have a look at the other suggestions now  :Smile:  will post how i get on

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## jakers181008

Also i dont really mind for speed at the moment, just had a look at the line section you have told me to look at, bot really sure what to change, dont want to ruin something (first thought it was ms^2 and was thinking to my self... hmm that is extremly high XD) 

I'm taking it is this part here:


*************************
*************************

//// MOVEMENT SETTINGS
#define NUM_AXIS 4 // The axis order in all axis related arrays is X, Y, Z, E
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0}  // set the homing speeds (mm/min)


// default settings


#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {78.7402,78.7402,200.0*8/3,760*1.1}  // default steps per unit for Ultimaker
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          {500, 500, 5, 25}    // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      {9000,9000,100,10000}    // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for Skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.


#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          3000    // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  3000   // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for retracts


// Offset of the extruders (uncomment if using more than one and relying on firmware to position when changing).
// The offset has to be X=0, Y=0 for the extruder 0 hotend (default extruder).
// For the other hotends it is their distance from the extruder 0 hotend.
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 20.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 5.00}  // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis


// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instantaneously)
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK                20.0    // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK                 0.4     // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_EJERK                 5.0    // (mm/sec)


**********************************
**********************************

How would this affect it? if any affect at all?


#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          300    
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  300  




Thanks  :Smile:

----------


## jakers181008

UPDATE:

Changed the board to what you have suggested, and the beeping has stopped i repeat THE BEEPING HAS STOPPED. thank alot  :Smile: 

Also there still is no error on the LCD still says "Mendel is ready"

but when connected to pronterface, still getting the :

echo:SD init fail  


would just like to thank you for you help, you have been a million times more helpful than the support people who i got the printer off of...  :Smile:

----------


## printbus

Yes, that's the area of the configuration.h the file. I'm not an expert on the hierarchy of possible controls, but my understanding is that the values starting with DEFAULT_ are what the printer will use if it has no other guidance from pronterface or the gcode file being processed.  You could do a web search on each of the labels and find numerous resources where people have worked through issues on how to set them.  

The bottom line is if  you try to rotate the motors too fast, they won't be able to and you'll just hear them make some noise as they jerk a bit for each step without actually moving.  I'm assuming that's what is happening with your motors. If you're commanding moves from pronterface, make sure the manual feedrates in Pronterface options aren't set too high or deliberately set them lower for initial testing.

On #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {78.7402,78.7402,200.0*8/3,760*1.1}  // default steps per unit for Ultimaker, first of all ignore the text that says those are default values for the Ultimaker.  They may be, but everyone seems to edit the values and leave the comment incorrectly there.  The source of  your Prusa kit actually has a Marlin build on their downloads page. I'm not saying you should use it because it is pretty dated (2012), but it is at least available as a reference.  The configuration.h file in that build uses these values - #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {53.2,53.2,3200/1.25,625}  // default steps per unit for NextDay.  There are web resources out there that explain how these numbers are calculated.  Once you have the printer working, you'll want to run some calibration prints to validate the settings and do some fine tuning, especially on the last value for the extruder steps per mm.   

The other DEFAULT_ values are the same in the nextday Marlin build.  Do they work? I don't know.  But I run considerably lower/slower values in my prusa from MakerFarm...
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          {150, 150, 2, 22}    // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      {1000,1000,5,1000}    // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. 
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          500    // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  500   // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for retracts

Again, you can always at least start with lower values until things seem to work and then increase them later.

Anyone with a Prusa I2 welcome to take over at any time.

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## printbus

> Changed the board to what you have suggested, and the beeping has stopped i repeat THE BEEPING HAS STOPPED. thank alot 
> 
> Also there still is no error on the LCD still says "Mendel is ready"
> 
> but when connected to pronterface, still getting the :
> 
> echo:SD init fail


Let's ignore the SD init fail for now. Does the smartpanel otherwise seem to function OK?  You should see the value next to F/R change as you rotate the knob.  Pressing the knob should send you down into the menu tree.  If the printer thermistors are hooked up properly, your room temperature should be showing up as the left side of the two pairs of numbers at the top of the screen.

EDIT: Actually, running a quick test with Pronterface here I see the SD init fail will occur if the SD card isn't plugged in, so what you're seeing is likely normal.

----------


## printbus

Sorry about hitting you with multiple posts, but set aside the motor issues for now. Once we think the panel is working OK we can get the heater controls sorted out.

----------


## jakers181008

Hiya,

Thanks for the replies, i have tried all of the above steps and will upload the firmware now.... 

and for the lcd screen, when i move the knob i can go from 10% up to .... 999% for FR (does this stand for feed rate or something rate?)

----------


## printbus

> Hiya,
> 
> Thanks for the replies, i have tried all of the above steps and will upload the firmware now.... 
> 
> and for the lcd screen, when i move the knob i can go from 10% up to .... 999% for FR (does this stand for feed rate or something rate?)


Yep. F/R is Feed Rate.  Now we know the rotary encoder is working and don't need to tweak how the Arduino pins for it are configured.

----------


## jakers181008

Also both temps are about room tempIMG_3880.jpg but i cant seem to get to the menu you talk of?


EDIT:

here is a short vid of what now happens when i try moving the motors, i have change the default value to your above comments
http://expirebox.com/download/04f096...29be0c037.html

----------


## printbus

> Also both temps are about room temp but i cant seem to get to the menu you talk of?


Do you mean that the panel control doesn't do anything when you push it into the panel? Do you feel it move down a bit and click? That should bring up a different screen.  The way the rotary encoder type of control works is you rotate it to scroll through a menu and then press it in to select something.

----------


## jakers181008

Hi, yeah i click it down and i am able to feel a "click" before when i was on the other lcd setting in the firm ware i was able to see it, now i'm not?

----------


## printbus

Ok. We'll have to go back to the lcd setting at some point. For now, let's check out the heaters. You said the bed was working. On the display, the right pair of numbers on the top row are for the bed. The left number is the current temp. The right number is the set temp. When you set a bed temp in pronterface, the right number should change to the set point, and the left number should creep up as the bed heats up. The left pair of numbers is similar but for the extruder. What do they do when you set an extruder temp from pronterface?

----------


## jakers181008

At the moment i am getting:

24/185   and then 40/60

the bed is working but the extruder still isn't heating up?


i will have to find my infra red temp gun to see if it actually measuring the correct temp, but i dont need to do that for now, so wont bother looking for it  :Stick Out Tongue:

----------


## printbus

I'm away from the computer and printer, but there are LEDs on the RAMPS board that indicate output states. I can't remember which LED it would be, but do you see an LED go on and off as you turn the extruder heater on and off?

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## jakers181008

Hi, please find an artistic view of my board.....

The EXT is the extruder heater wires, and the bed is well.. the bed heater wires.

i have circled the LEDs that come on when each device is activated, and have pointed them to the word, hopefully it is self explanatory 

RAMPS_top.jpg

----------


## printbus

The normal Marlin config has the primary extruder heater on D10. You show it wired to D9.

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## jakers181008

ahhhhh, will re wire that now

unless there is a setting in the config that i can just reassign the wires?

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## jakers181008

also another questions that is completly random, do i need to be powering the arduino separately along with the USB and power to the shield?

----------


## printbus

Yes, every pin is mapable. That's the flexibility and the frustration of marlin. File pins.h does the mapping. Again, I'm away from the resources to tell you exactly what to change, so it'd probably be easier to move the wires.

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## printbus

> also another questions that is completly random, do i need to be powering the arduino separately along with the USB and power to the shield?


No. RAMPS and the lcd add on get power from the Arduino board.

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## jakers181008

ouch.... the extruder really does heat up quickly doesn't it.....


well that is now working.. so now really there is the motors settings and the LCD unit menu that need setting up correctly

thanks so much for the help already!! YOU'RE A STAR

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## printbus

I remember the video focusing on the z motors. Do x and y work, or are there issues with them too? Were the trimpots on the RAMPS stepper drivers adjusted as part of your build?

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## jakers181008

hi, same issue with all motors, sorry dont know what you mean with trimpots, the build manual was rubbish, never go with geeetech as their customer support is rubbish, anyways, yeah it's the same issue with the x and y and the extruder motors

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## printbus

Ok. Ignoring whether the printer worked at some point... There are four small boards plugged onto the RAMPS board. One for each axis and one for the extruder motor. There's an adjustment on each that sets the drive level for the motor. Try searching the web for RAMPS stepper adjustment.

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## jakers181008

hmmm, i've done a full rotation on the z stepper controller, but it seems to make a louder noise, and then when i do the full 360, it goes quite again, still with no luck?

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## jakers181008

i better stop with all this noise at 1:15 in the morning, will continue tomorrow  :Smile:

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## printbus

Sounds good.  I'm one more beer away from being useless to you anyway.  In the morning, go back to the web search and look for instructions on setting the stepper drivers to a voltage level.  That way we'll know that the drivers are adjusted properly and we can work to resolve what must be a too-fast speed issue.

EDIT: Section 11.4 in the nextday build manual you linked to talks about how to set up the stepper motor driver voltages.  Just make sure you set the meter to DC *voltage*, not DC Current like the text says.  And BTW, the wiring diagram in section 9 shows the hot end heater connected to D10 where you moved it to. I'm confused.  You've now referenced too sources for the printer - nextday and geeetech.  It's hard to help when the definition of what you have for a printer build is unclear.  On the LCD display, go back to whatever source you bought it from and ask them how to configure Marlin for it or ask them to provide you a schematic for it so we can figure it out. Without that, we're just guessing at how to make things work.

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## jakers181008

Hiya,

you're not the only confused one. geetech is the seller and the tech support i was getting... but when ever i asked for the build manual they sent me to the nextday page. most of the things on there wernt what i was given or i was given something that wasnt on the manual, i had to go loads of places to find out how to actually build my printer as the instructions were not clear. the geetech told me to download a driver that actually blue screened my laptop... so after that i got in contact with the geeetech people who were going round in circles for almost a year.... i got this printer last christmas.

i'l try my best to clear up what i actually have:

here is the manual they gave me... i was using that board until i realised that they had made it wrong and it wasn't even functional, so i now have a ramps 1.4 board

1.0 Electronics
1.1
Fully assembled Sanguinololu & Soldered with Hot end power & Thermistor attached.
1.2
Sanguinololu Power Cables
1.3
(NO LONGER IN USE)



3x Mechanical Endstops with Completed Wiring I Had to change these over with new one as i had plugged these into 12V i think?
©2012 NextDayReprap
Prusa Mendel Kit Build Manual V1.01 - 07/2012
1.0 Bill of Materials - Reprap Prusa Mendel Build Manual
1.4
550W ATX PSU
1.5
ATX Power Supply Adaptor
1.6
V2 Heat bed with Surface Mount LEDs/Resistor & Soldered Power Cable (inc Thermistor)
1.7
5 x Nema 17 Stepper Motors with Connectors & Crimps
©2012 NextDayReprap
Prusa Mendel Kit Build Manual V1.01 - 07/2012
1. 0 Bill of Materials - Reprap Prusa Mendel Build Manual
1.8
Fully assembled Hot End wired for Power & Thermistor with Mini Fit Molex connectors.
1.9
Mains Power Lead (Kettle Type) & 1M USB 2.0 Cable
2.0 Rod


6x 370mm A2 Stainless 1.25mm Pitch Threaded Rod - YUP
3x 440mm BZP 1.25mm Pitch Threaded Rod
4x 294mm BZP 1.25mm Pitch Threaded
2x 210mm BZP 1.25mm Pitch Threaded Rod
2x 50mm BZP 1.25mm Pitch Threaded Rod
2x 420mm Steel Round Rod
2x 350mm Steel Round Rod
1x 19.5mm Steel Round Rod ( Extruder Idler)
2x 390mm Threaded Rod
©2012 NextDayReprap


Prusa Mendel Kit Build Manual V1.01 - 07/2012
1.0 Bill of Materials - Reprap Prusa Mendel Build Manual
3.0 Nuts & Bolts


6 x M2 16mm Hex Socket Bolts
30x M3 10mm Hex Socket Bolts
15x M3 20mm Hex Socket Bolts
2x M3 40mm Hex Socket Bolts
2x M4 50mm Hex Socket Bolts
2x M4 45mm Hex Head Bolts
4x M4 40mm Countersunk Hex Socket Bolts
6x M8 30mm Fender/Penny Washers
6x M2 Nuts
28x M3 Nuts
8x M4 Nuts
86x M8 Nuts
2x M3 Nylock Nuts
1x M8 Nylock Nuts
12x M2 Washers
56x M3 Washers
16x M4 Washers
88x M8 Washers
1x Hobbed Bolt
1x M3 10mm Grub Screw (Extruder Small Gear)
©2012 NextDayReprap
Prusa Mendel Kit Build Manual V1.01 - 07/2012
1.0 Bill of Materials - Reprap Prusa Mendel Build Manual
4.0 Bearings & Pulleys & Couplings
4.1
12x LM8UU Bearings (1 Spare) (Some may have been pre fitted to the printed parts) (which they were)
4.2
9 x 608ZZ Bearings (1 Spare)
4.3
2x 12 tooth T5 XL Aluminum Pulleys
4.4
2x Rigid Z Axis Couplings
©2012 NextDayReprap (see they keep mentioning this)
Prusa Mendel Kit Build Manual V1.01 - 07/2012
1.0 Bill of Materials - Reprap Prusa Mendel Build Manual
5.0 Springs
5.1
4 x Heat Bed Springs
5.2
2x Z Axis Springs
5.3
2x Extruder Springs
6.0 Timing Belts
6.1
2x 1M Brecoflex 6mm T5 Belt
©2012 NextDayReprap
Prusa Mendel Kit Build Manual V1.01 - 07/2012
1.0 Bill of Materials - Reprap Prusa Mendel Build Manual
7.0 Build Plate
7.1
Laser Cut Aluminum Build Bed
7.2
7.3
4x 51mm Bull Dog Clips (didn't include these, had to buy them my self)
225cm x 225cm Build Plate Mirror
©2012 NextDayReprap (and again)
Prusa Mendel Kit Build Manual V1.01 - 07/2012
1.0 Bill of Materials - Reprap Prusa Mendel Build Manual
8.0 Printed Parts
8.1
4x Bar Clamps
8.2
2 x Rod Clamps
8.3
4 x Belt Clamps
8.4
3 x Endstop Holder
8.5
4 x LM8UU Bearing Pillows
©2012 NextDayReprap
Prusa Mendel Kit Build Manual V1.01 - 07/2012
1.0 Bill of Materials - Reprap Prusa Mendel Build Manual


1 x Extruder
1 x Extruder Idler
1x Extruder Large Gear
1x Extruder Small Gear
1x X Carriage
8.7
2 x Frame Vertex
8.8
4x Frame Vertex with Foot
©2012 NextDayReprap
Prusa Mendel Kit Build Manual V1.01 - 07/2012
1.0 Bill of Materials - Reprap Prusa Mendel Build Manual
8.9
8x Bar Clamp
8.10
1 x X Motor Mount
8.11
1 x X Idler
8.12
1x Y Motor Mount
©2012 NextDayReprap
Prusa Mendel Kit Build Manual V1.01 - 07/2012
1.0 Bill of Materials - Reprap Prusa Mendel Build Manual
8.13
2x Z Motor Mount
8.14
2 x y-tensioner
8.15
2x Belt clamp nut holder


hopefully that has cleared some stuff up? you can down load the pdf i got from : http://www.geeetech.com/Documents/Re...0Optimized.rar

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## jakers181008

Also for the LCD in the config i can see there is a list of different LCD models and i click on all to see which one i had and it was the one i had selected before,

on another note, would you recommend me getting a different LCD? or something to help us out here?

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## Roxy

> Also for the LCD in the config i can see there is a list of different LCD models and i click on all to see which one i had and it was the one i had selected before,
> 
> on another note, would you recommend me getting a different LCD? or something to help us out here?


This won't be a popular post with many...  But you can go on eBay and buy an old, obsolete laptop for $20.    You get way better control of what is going on with a laptop running PronterFace than an LCD Panel.   I have an old laptop dedicated to running my printer and I use that.   I also have it setup with VNC so I can just pull up its screen on an machine I'm using to check on things.

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## printbus

> Also for the LCD in the config i can see there is a list of different LCD models and i click on all to see which one i had and it was the one i had selected before


If I understand this right, in order to get the button click working you had to go back to the G3D_PANEL definition in the configuration.h file.  I assume that means the constant tone from the buzzer is back?  Please verify whether the left and right rotation of the knob still changes the F/R setting properly (left rotation makes the F/R decrease and right rotation makes the F/R increase).  Looking at the pin assignments in pins.h, my guess is the rotation of the knob now doesn't work like it did with the reprap discount selection? If rotation of the knob and the button click is working with the G3D_PANEL selection in configuration.h, try changing the value for BEEPER at line 793 in your pins.h file from 33 to -1.  I think (but am unsure) that is the BEEPER pin assignment used when you've specified the G3D_PANEL. Setting BEEPER to -1 should disable it.




> on another note, would you recommend me getting a different LCD? or something to help us out here?


My main recommendation would be to add your location to your profile so that it shows up in your posts. Maybe someone near to you would volunteer to meet up and help you out.  The problems you're having aren't all that tough to resolve - just tough to resolve over distance, by text, sight unseen.

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## printbus

> This won't be a popular post with many...  But you can go on eBay and buy an old, obsolete laptop for $20.    You get way better control of what is going on with a laptop running PronterFace than an LCD Panel.   I have an old laptop dedicated to running my printer and I use that.   I also have it setup with VNC so I can just pull up its screen on an machine I'm using to check on things.


FWIW, I agree.  I was hoping we could put off the pin assignment issues with the smart panel until the rest of the printer is working. Roxy - do you know of a Prusa I2 owner who might be able to help with his mechanical setup?

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## Roxy

I don't know any i2 people.  But wouldn't all the pins be the same between an i2 and i3 on a RAMP's board?   All the same stuff is there and my guess is it would be connected the same way???

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## jakers181008

> This won't be a popular post with many...  But you can go on eBay and buy an old, obsolete laptop for $20.    You get way better control of what is going on with a laptop running PronterFace than an LCD Panel.   I have an old laptop dedicated to running my printer and I use that.   I also have it setup with VNC so I can just pull up its screen on an machine I'm using to check on things.


HI Roxy, i do currently do use a laptop but it is really getting to the end of it's pathetic life, so i wanted to have something that will boot up quickly and still run the printer if laptop goes dead.

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## jakers181008

> try changing the value for BEEPER at line 793 in your pins.h file from 33 to -1.  I think (but am unsure) that is the BEEPER pin assignment used when you've specified the G3D_PANEL. Setting BEEPER to -1 should disable it.


I will change that now and will get back to you




> My main recommendation would be to add your location to your profile so that it shows up in your posts. Maybe someone near to you would volunteer to meet up and help you out.  The problems you're having aren't all that tough to resolve - just tough to resolve over distance, by text, sight unseen.


I do understand that getting someone to help me out in person would be extremely helpful.. but i can see the both of you are on the other side of the north atlantic ocean, i live in England in Gloucestershire near stroud. so if there is anyone there, close by, or in england about an hour away i would be more than happy to travel  :Smile:  

But i do have a webcam and skype or lync if any of you have that too? skype user is jakers181008  :Smile:

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## printbus

> I don't know any i2 people.  But wouldn't all the pins be the same between an i2 and i3 on a RAMP's board?   All the same stuff is there and my guess is it would be connected the same way???


We can eventually work through the pin mapping. What I was specifically thinking of were the calculations related to the steps per unit in DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT.

Jakers, it occurs to me that setting BEEPER to -1 may not disable the constant tone if your LCD panel is hardwired to a pin on the MEGA2560 that is configured to do something else. If the tone is still there, I suggest (temporarily) setting configuration.h back to the REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER so that you at least have the LCD available as a monitor without the constant noise.  As requested earlier, contact your ebay seller for the display and ask if they can give you any Marlin setup information for it.  We should be able to (eventually) work through it, but it'd be easier if they have info to give you.  Then, you still have the action to adjust the voltage settings on the stepper motor driver boards.  Once that is done we can focus on getting the motors working.

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## jakers181008

Hiya, i changed it back to the other settings but it shows some details in jibberish, so put it back to the discount one,  the LCD i got it from is this one here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3607855687...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT am waiting for a reply from them to see what they have to say.

And for the voltage setting on the boards, i cant seem to get it to move, they still make the noise, just make a louder noise... :/ i do a hole 360degree turn with them and they go back to low voltate

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## printbus

> Hiya, i changed it back to the other settings but it shows some details in jibberish, so put it back to the discount one,  the LCD i got it from is this one here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3607855687...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT am waiting for a reply from them to see what they have to say.
> 
> And for the voltage setting on the boards, i cant seem to get it to move, they still make the noise, just make a louder noise... :/ i do a hole 360degree turn with them and they go back to low voltate


You can't get what to move? The voltage? Or the motor? If the latter, all we're trying to do AT THIS TIME is set up the drive level for the stepper boards.  We need this done before we can move onto the next step that MIGHT get the motors working.  One step at a time.  Set the voltages. Don't worry about whether the motors are working.  

The fact that the sound of the motors change indicates the adjustment is having an effect. If the voltage you should be measuring isn't changing while you adjust the trimpot, you're likely not measuring it correctly.  And to clarify, this adjustment is something you do with the printer just sitting there, not during an attempt to move the motor.

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## jakers181008

there we are, after turning my room upside down found my multi meter...... can i just ask what voltage i should be seeing? and what terminals am i checking?

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## printbus

> there we are, after turning my room upside down found my multi meter...... can i just ask what voltage i should be seeing? and what terminals am i checking?


From post #44: Section 11.4 in the nextday build manual you linked to talks about how to set up the stepper motor driver voltages.  Just make sure you set the meter to DC *voltage*, not DC Current like the text says.  

A starting point for a voltage setpoint and the terminals are discussed there.

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## Mjolinor

From your video the motor is working correctly, you are just feeding it signals too fast. It has been a while (> 6 months) since I messed with Marlin so I can't give you any input on that. You can tell it is working because the stepper moves as it should initially but after a very short time it stops and whines. That is because you have acceleration enabled and the pulses start off slowly but soon the pulses are too fast for your stepper.

I am in Burnley but it is still too far away unless you wanted to lug the whole lot up here.

I think it is very close now, just slow down your stepper motors top speed and they will work.

Geeetech have to be the worst seller out there. I to bought a board off them,an Azteeg and it did not work. They were hopeless. Eventually after dancing to their tune for 2 months I told them to send me another and that one was exactly the same but I had traced the fault to a faulty PCB so I knew exactly what the problem was by the time I got the second board. A free board is little compensation for the time I spent getting it going but better than nothing.

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## Mjolinor

Looking sideways at your video I think you have 200 mm / minute for Z. That should be OK assuming you have steps / rev set correctly so I am wondering if you have micro-stepping enabled in the Marlin config but not enabled in your stepper driver board. I don't know if that is possible as I haven't been into Marlin for some time but I have done a lot with steppers using LinuxCNC and it is where I would look next.

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## jakers181008

Hi after going to the shops to replace the 9V battery in my multi-meter, i had found out my Y board for the stepper wasn't actually showing any side on fife, nut lucky i had a spare one that would of been used for my second extruder (If i had on) but they are now all set to the correct voltage as per the manual says.


I will update my marlin software on here just in case i've done something wrong..... :/ still no reply from the seller of the LCD board, not important as of yet as am currently using laptop to control the board mainly, just using the board to see the temps

my marlin.zip

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## printbus

Once we know the driver boards are adjusted, my plan forward is to next test the endstop switches so we know they are wired and configured in Marlin in a compatible way.  One step at a time...

FWIW, I totally agree with Mjolinor on his assessment of the video. I thought the same thing (some acceleration followed by an attempt to rotate too fast) when I saw it.  Once the endstop switches are tested, I'd then suggest testing motors with just the X, Y and Z home buttons in pronterface since homing speeds are totally left to Marlin.  After we see motors working fine there, you'd then test with the 1, 10, and 100mm movements on Pronterface.  This last testing could involve reducing manual feed rate settings in Pronterface, not Marlin.

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## jakers181008

Hi,

How do i check the the switches are being pressed/released? is there some where that tells the status of these?

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## printbus

I'll help with that once you indicate the driver voltages are set. I'm glad to help, but want to stay focused on one aspect at a time.

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## jakers181008

Hiya, pretty sure i said in one of my last posts, sorry if i didn't, but all of the driver voltages are set to the recommended voltage in the manual, took a while to do that as i had to buy a new battery for my multi meter  :Smile:

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## printbus

OK. I thought the Y driver board was still being worked on. I now see I mis-read that. 

How many endstop switches do you have?  I assume three?

Make sure none of the switches are being pressed. From pronterface, issue a M119 command. This will read the endstop switches, as translated through the settings in the configuration.h file. What results do you get?

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## jakers181008

>>>M119
SENDING:M119
Reporting endstop status
x_min: TRIGGERED
x_max: open
y_min: TRIGGERED
y_max: open
z_min: opent (i'm going with this should be TRIGGERED..) same with when i set the values for inverted to false, they both go with TRIGGERED????.. any ideas this doesn't look right?
z_max: open

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## printbus

For now I'm not worried about whether the switches read open or TRIGGERED.  For now, press and hold each switch closed (one at a time) while resending the M119.  We want to make sure the value for each switch changes as you press and release that switch. If you have three switches, the values for the x_min, y_min, and z_min should be the ones changing.

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## jakers181008

Hiya, when i press them they change all but the 3rd one for Z :/


EDIT
Hang on a sec....

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## printbus

> Hiya, when i press them they change all but the 3rd one for Z :/


OK, let's try to get that fixed.  There might be a wire broken between RAMPS and the Z endstop switch or the wires aren't going to the right terminals on that switch.  

To prove the MEGA2560 board is working OK, try temporarily swapping the connector for the Z endstop switch with the connector for the X or Y endstop.  Does the problem stay with the physical switch, or does it stay with the Z_min reading in the M119 results?

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## jakers181008

Okay before i had noticed one of the wires had gotten lose, but now when sending the M119 command it comes with:


Non Pressed
x_min: TRIGGERED
x_max: TRIGGERED
y_min: TRIGGERED
y_max: open
z_min: open
z_max: open


X Pressed
x_min: open
x_max: TRIGGERED
y_min: TRIGGERED
y_max: open
z_min: open
z_max: open


Y Pressed
x_min: TRIGGERED
x_max: TRIGGERED
y_min: open
y_max: open
z_min: open
z_max: open


Z Pressed
x_min: TRIGGERED
x_max: open
y_min: TRIGGERED
y_max: open
z_min: open
z_max: open




This isnt looking right?..


When i change over the X trigger to the Z pins, and i now press the x trigger (previously z) i get this:

X not pressed
x_min: TRIGGERED
x_max: TRIGGERED
y_min: open
y_max: open
z_min: open
z_max: open

X pressed
x_min: TRIGGERED
x_max: TRIGGERED
y_min: open
y_max: open
z_min: open
z_max: open

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## jakers181008

Also forgot to add, that the z Trigger now works but x Doesn't so it's the Board??  :Frown:

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## printbus

xmax should be reading as open; your data is suggesting one of the switches is connected to it.  Re-check how the endstop connectors are plugged onto the RAMPS board. The RAMPS connector block for endstops should be hooked up as follows (from top to bottom assuming the board power connections are at the bottom)

Nothing plugged in (this would be Z max)
Z min switch
Nothing  plugged in (this would be Y max)
Y min switch
Nothing plugged in (this would be X max)
X min switch

Markings on the RAMPS boards vary by manufacturer.  The labels where you should have things plugged onto the board might be something like X- or XMIN, etc.

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## Roxy

> Also forgot to add, that the z Trigger now works but x Doesn't so it's the Board??


You might want to check your configuration.h settings for:

const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop

It looks like the logic is backwards.  I think the way you have yours configured versus how the switches are wired is backwards.   But I'll let PrintBus see if that is true.

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## printbus

Yes, the settings were/are inverted. I was taking advantage of that in seeing how things were reading with no switches pressed.  For now let's get the connections straightened out and then we can correct the inversion.

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## jakers181008

it's currently set to :

const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

and there isnt any markings on the board, but it is set up to X, Y and then Z in that order from left to right starting on the furthest left pins

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## printbus

Let's try another approach.  Go ahead and make the firmware changes suggested by Roxy.  This should cause M119 to show open on all switches when none are pressed. After that firmware change, when you press a switch, the MIN for that switch should show up as TRIGGERED in M119.  This is ultimately how things will need to work.  If any of the MAX shows up as TRIGGERED in the M119 results when you're pressing on switches, your connections aren't right.

EDIT: Feel free to post a picture of the endstop connections on your RAMPs board.

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## jakers181008

made that change in the config as roxy said, getting this: 
x_min: TRIGGERED
x_max: TRIGGERED
y_min: open
y_max: open
z_min: TRIGGERED
z_max: open

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## printbus

Well, I don't know what to tell you. You have to get things to the point where all read as open with no switch pressed, x_min shows as TRIGGERED when you press the X endstop, y_min shows as TRIGGERED when you press the Y endstop, and z_min shows as TRIGGERED when you press the Z endstop. I don't know if your firmware change didn't take, or what. 

I think I've invested about all the time in this project that I can. Hopefully someone else can continue to provide help.  Beyond what I've already covered, follow through with Mjolinor's point about the stepper drivers and make sure all 3 jumpers are installed under each one. Presence of the three jumpers is what sets up the board for the proper microstepping. Finally, use your multimeter to measure the 12V supply output when you try to move a motor and make sure the voltage doesn't drop off.

EDIT: With regards to whether or not the INVERTING defines in configuration.h should be true or false, it really doesn't matter as long as the M119 is providing the proper response. The invert setting depends on how the endstop switches are wired.  The Marlin firmware defaults to true assuming wires connect to the C and NO (Normally Open) terminals on the endstop switches, meaning that a connection will be made between the two wires when the switch is pressed. Most build instructions, however, run wires to the C and NC (normally closed) switch terminals. In this case, the configuration.h defines for the endstop switches present should be set to false, as Roxy noted in her post.  But again, all that is important is that M119 shows TRIGGERED for each switch when it is pressed.

EDIT #2: If testing concludes Marlin isn't properly reading one of the MIN endstop inputs, remember the MAX inputs are unused in this build and are essentially available as spares.  In file pins.h, the pin assignment for a bad MIN endstop input can be swapped with one of the unused MAX inputs that is working.  Then the endstop switch is plugged on the RAMPS location for that MAX endstop. This might save having to replace the MEGA2560 board simply because one of the inputs isn't reading right. For the endstop inputs, the RAMPs board is just a connection path.  If there's a problem reading a switch input, the fault is likely on the MEGA2560 board, not the RAMPS board.

EDIT #3: Your Marlin build is currently configured with what *should* be reasonable if not conservative feed rates and acceleration values.  One line in configuration.h that is still suspect is the #define for DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT.  There are web resources available that show how the mechanical details of your printer factor into equations used to determine the numbers.  As mentioned earlier, the last number, the extruder steps per mm, should be refined through testing performed when the extruder motor is able to feed filament through the hot end.  There are many web resources that explain how to go about extruder calibration.

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## Mjolinor

Post some pictures of your board or links to it with the stepper drivers removed. Pictures of your stepper driver boards too. Pictures in general can lead to solutions, people will spot wires wrong and stuff that we can't get form your descriptions.

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## Roxy

> made that change in the config as roxy said, getting this:


Careful here!   That wasn't a code suggestion.  That was a cut and paste of my settings!!!   I just wanted you to know what I was talking about!!!

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## jakers181008

While unplugging everything and plugging it back it i found a couple of end stops in the wrong place, will test now  :Smile:

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## jakers181008

x_min: TRIGGERED
x_max: open
y_min: open
y_max: open
z_min: open
z_max: open


now i'm getting this, all of the other switches work, part from x, the just stays triggered....


also the motors now move  :Big Grin:  park from x for obvious reasons

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## jakers181008

Hi guys been a very busy week but now working on the printer again, 


I have sorted out the switch, it was a simple connector fault, replacing fixed that.


now just the X motor just makes a juddering noise sort of like a machine gun. i've increased the voltage a tiny bit but still not working, must be something to do with the acceleration? also the extruder is doing the same. just the jittering is much slower? i need to get another feeder thingy, the one that drips onto the filament and pushes it down. will go buy that today :/ didn't last long, saying that i haven't even been able ti use the motor to drip the filament :/

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## jakers181008

just tried changing the x y manual feedrate to 100, but it is still making the junting noise but not as quick anymore. and when i turn up the voltage on the board, it's just makes the noise louder.. :/

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## jakers181008

Hey guys, if any of you want to help me, i got skype think that would be quicker at solving my issue if anyone wants to help  :Smile: 

Jakers181008
Also my email is jakers181008@gmail.com

hopefully i'm very close to getting this working.

Thanks again, 
 - Jake

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## jakers181008

okay i've just made a few more tests to see what the problem is. i've changed over the stepper motors, i changed x with y, and now y does not move. 

i've changed the driver board and that makes no difference

i've double checked the voltage on the board and that made no difference art from making the clicking noise louder...


Any ideas anyone?

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## jakers181008

PS i have taken the pulley off of the stepper motor for now as i thought it was causing too much friction, but that didn't help it at all

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## jakers181008

Hi guys just tried out cura by ultimaker, looks like a nice piece of software, what would you guys recommend using when i get the last two motors working?  :Smile: 


Regards
 - Jake

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## Mjolinor

What ever you use I would recommend that when you ask for help on Skype you respond to requests to add people because without that it is not possible to help.

I had a couple of hours to spare this afternoon but it's too late now.  :Smile:

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## jakers181008

i swear i'm going to throw my ipod out the window :Mad: , never tells me anything, maybe another time?  :Smile:

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## jakers181008

well i'll be at work next week so will be able to work on printer from 7pm onwards. then the weekend i'l going on holiday to denmark :/ was really hoping i would get the printer sorted by the end of today  :Frown:

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