# 3D Printing > 3D Printers (Hardware) >  Network Printers

## AutoWiz

So I have these printers that I bought and built and built from scratch and their evolution to this point can be seen here: 
http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...Mixing-Printer
Since I have dumped the 3 color mixing part the title of the above thread does not apply and especially as I head off in a new direction. I now have 3 printers all connected to and driven off of 1 pc on a workbench I have dubbed the creation station. I now seek to be able to control these 3 printers from my car or my job or even other computers in my home. So the first step is to do away with the manual bed leveling and height adjustment. Then I will mount a webcam to each printer. And finally I will setup and run repetier server to give the desired results I am looking for. Or at least that is my theoretical roadmap. We will see how this unfolds. I have printed out some sensor mount/fan funnels for the mk8 extruders 2 of my printers have. Pictures are coming tonight.

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## AutoWiz

I took the lazy approach to printing a mount for the proximity sensor. I searched for it instead of designing my own. I looked at a bunch of different designs and went with one that I liked. It also holds a 5015 fan and blows air on the filament that leaves the hotend..



Aside from being able to print while away from the printer this will complete the removal of all micro switches from my homemade printer. It has min and max optical end stops for y axis. optical min for x axis and now just a proximity sensor and aluminum bed for z axis. Tonight I wire the sensors in and begin trying to figure out how to set this up in marlin.

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## AutoWiz

And here is the same mount printed in clear to match the printer frame..

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## AutoWiz

While I have the sensors mounted on 2 printers I am only wiring and changing firmware on 1 at a time. And I am starting with the homemade printer, Printilicious. The proximity sensor runs on 12v and the megatronics 3.0 board like all others uses 5v for it's sensors/end stops. So To resolve this I used a 10k and a 15k ohm resistor and made an in line voltage divider attached to the output wire of the proximity sensor..



I took this as a weekend project and all of my dvom/multimeter/labscope and related diagnostic equipment is at work. So here is my makeshift voltmeter for testing my circuit..



I got a stack of these tiny digital volt gauges off ebay a while ago and have used them for various projects. There is one mounted to each printer just so I can easily monitor the 12v output of my power supplies. They work great..



And today I am struggling with the trial and error of marlin settings.

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## AutoWiz

Still have some fine tuning to do but here is homing and leveling action with the new sensor..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oCXpMXaqhO4

No more mechanical switches. After some final adjustments to marlin I need to repeat this entire process on the acrylic printer. Then its onto repetier server and webcams

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## AutoWiz

I had this thought as I was fine tuning the first printer. At some point i'm going to want to do away with all the multi colored parts on my printers. While to me they resemble different spools of filament and different waves of evolution and designing and building, to others it might more resemble a child's toy. It is no problem because I save .stl files for everything I have made or downloaded so it is just a matter of reprinting a handful of pieces in black and transparent. But to install these pieces will mean substantial printer teardown and ultimately having to redo all the fine tuning I was working on. So I  started printing parts..



The transparent really ends up translucent. The process of printing out the filament makes creating a perfectly clear part impossible..



Gotta go toss these parts in.

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## curious aardvark

If you are running them all from one computer. 
Why not just use usb cables and teamviewer to access the computer ? 
Not as tecchie, but just as effective. 

These days I can even use teamviewer to access tablets.

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## fredk

> If you are running them all from one computer. 
> Why not just use usb cables and teamviewer to access the computer ? 
> Not as tecchie, but just as effective. 
> 
> These days I can even use teamviewer to access tablets.


Just change printing ports in your software to access different printers?  Does Octoprint handle the concept of multiple printers?  It would be cool to be able to initiate multiple prints at once just by associating print jobs to printers/ports.

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## AutoWiz

Interesting idea. I am rather familiar with windows remote desktop. And even windows remote desktop app for android. But I have a specific reason for going with repetier sever pro. Check this out guys:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hxVPf-a5SQ

Ultimately it would be nice to have my printers and computer and everything stay powered off except for just a small 5v device like the pi and use the pi's gpio's to turn on the printer I want to use and then power it off after the print. This way there is no setup or prep just whenever I like wherever I like log into repetier server frontend and connect to whichever printer I want to use, turn it on, and watch it start printing. The biggest obstacle here for me is going to be setting up the software. I am learning as I go. And I have had multiple printers going at the same time off 1 pc with repetier. I just had multiple instances of it opened.

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## curious aardvark

that's pretty cool. 

Amazing what you can do with a pi :-)

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## AutoWiz

They were cheap enough so I already got a pi and got the 64gb microsd to work on it and got raspbian installed pretty easy but I am struggling with getting retropi up and going on it. And I want to install a full version of minecraft on it with windows iot but I have to get past the retropi first. Once I have learned a little more with the pi then I will move forward with repetier server on pi. In repetier server when you are setting up your printer(s) there is an option to set to turn power to printer on/off. At this point that is a dark path to me but I like the sound of it and want to move in that direction. I know the pi has a bunch of gpios so in theory I should be able to achieve this vision with a pi and repetier server. I have some experience with Arduino boards and fusion brain. Feeble knowledge really. I am an auto mechanic I am very good at working with my hands. And all things hardware related come naturally to me. But the software and programming slows me down. I am almost done swapping parts on both printers

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## AutoWiz

Unfortunately I have hit a few speed bumps on my way here. First I noticed that I needed slightly longer 8mm linear rods for the x axis on the black printer and I need a jst connector to connect the fan I added to the gt2560 board on the clear printer. So I am in a holding pattern waiting on ebay. Also I lost my .stl file I had made for my little volt gauges and I still have to design and print a black filament holder for the black printer. But aside from that, They are looking much better as I take away all the different colors..



And here is my pi 3 with a wall mount I designed and printed..



For the time while I learn the ins and outs of the pi I have it attached to a 32" tv so it is easy on the old eyes..

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## spegelius

As far as I know, you need an ATX power supply if you want to be able to turn printer on or off. Here's an Instructable about it: http://www.instructables.com/id/Usin...ATX-power-sup/. I've been planning on implementing this on my FrankenCube, but as it's been working very well with raspberry + Octorint, never got around to it... just need to manually turn the ATX main switch off.

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## AutoWiz

> As far as I know, you need an ATX power supply if you want to be able to turn printer on or off. Here's an Instructable about it: http://www.instructables.com/id/Usin...ATX-power-sup/. I've been planning on implementing this on my FrankenCube, but as it's been working very well with raspberry + Octorint, never got around to it... just need to manually turn the ATX main switch off.



Thank you. This is a brilliant way to power a printer and a pi together. I need to make some more changes to my printers.

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## AutoWiz

I have learned that my monoprice mini printer has onboard wifi. It is not well known about these printers as they are a rebranded mylan 200 printer and I guess that feature wasn't pushed to hard or known or advertised too well but it is there and it works and well. Here is the first wifi printer up and going in my home..



It is basic in its function but it works. I used repetier and a usb cable to connect to the printer and send g code to tell the printer ssid and password. Then the printer connects to my network and displays a ip address across the top of it's screen. Once I open my browser and type in that address I get this nifty little webpage..



Here I can drag and drop .gco files for printing. It is not the fastest thing when it comes to uploading files but it works.

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## AutoWiz

I know I was thinking about using a pi for this effort but I have since decided to use controllers that natively support wifi. First up for this modification is the GEEETech i3 printer. This machine has been a workhorse for me..



I have already put some upgrades on this machine. This 12864 screen was an upgrade..



And now it has to go in exchange for this knob - less and color touchscreen..



When I first built this printer I was excited to get this together and discover the world of 3d printing. And as such when I got to connecting everything to the gt2560 control board I was admittedly a bit sloppy..



Here is the gt2560 controller. This is a fine controller. It just doesn't support wifi. So it has to go..



And I am building this back with an MKS base 1.5 board. I like how the stepper drivers are integrated..



I know it might seem strange that I like or even want to play with integrated drivers with a fixed amount of microstepping. And these are only 1/16 microstepping. So I have to chase down resolution with stepper motors. I got a pair of 400 steps per revolution or 0.9 degree per step motors. They will install on the x and y axes..



And here is the controller all wired in and a little cleaner wiring job this time..



Here we are all back together..



And here is the MKS wifi module that connects to the back of the MKS tft32 touchscreen..

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## AutoWiz

Updated the firmware for the touchscreen and check out the new gui / icons..



should be printing soon.

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## AutoWiz

finished all the setup stuff and got started on the first test print since back together..







I do still have some fine tuning ahead of me here. The first layer was kinda sketchy because of height and proximity sensor adjustment among other things but that is for a different thread. Now that this machine is back together and printing ok I need to get the wifi connected and print something wirelessly.

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## Wolfie

> I do still have some fine tuning ahead of me here. The first layer was kinda sketchy because of height and proximity sensor adjustment among other things but that is for a different thread. Now that this machine is back together and printing ok I need to get the wifi connected and print something wirelessly.


Raspberry Pi.  A PiCam or a cheap Logitech USB WebCam.  And OctoPi.  Its all you need.

Technically you don't need the cams.  But its nice to SEE the printer.  From anywhere.  It streams it live.  It also can produce a timelapse video for you of the print.  So, if anything goes wrong during the print, you can see when and how.

And you can install samba.  With that, you can share a "watched" folder and the timelapse folder.  You can then slice and save the Gcode direct to the watched folder (no http upload needed).  It will appear in the file list in OctoPi and you can print right then.

You can also intall cura engine into OctoPi and it will even slice it for you.  But I don't use that feature as I use Simplify3D and save the slice to the network share on the OctoPi.

Using this setup, I can monitor my prints right from a standard browser on my phone or use PiP on the Xbox or on my Kodi box.

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## AutoWiz

yup. As I am learning the wireless capabilities of the monoprice mini and the mks wifi modules are pretty limited. no real way to bring a camera into the mix. But that is ok. I only have wireless onboard for 3 of my 4 printers. My home made printer, Printilicious, uses a megatronics v3 board. No wireless going on there. So I will use a pi for this effort. Although to be honest I was looking at the asus tinkerboard (https://www.asus.com/us/Single-Board.../Tinker-Board/ ) , and now I am looking at the banana pi m3( http://www.banana-pi.org/m3.html ). ya its a few bills more, but it has an octa-core cpu with 2gb of lpddr3. They will both work with most pi stuff.

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## AutoWiz

The printer that I will get to explore using a pi with must first go through an upgrade. The printer works fine but the 300x200 print bed takes a long time to warm up and I always felt like this should have been a 24v printer. And once its running 24v I can use the quiet tmc2100 drivers. Here is the printer and the parts I have for this effort so far..



Because this will be a voltage change I feel I need to do this first before I setup the pi.

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## AutoWiz

I know I like to show off my printer modifications a lot more than I do the things I print. So I wanted to show that this printer is doing just fine the way it is before I tear it down. So I designed this piece and it took 13 hours to print..









The stand is 160mm tall, 135mm in diameter, and has a 1.5mm wall thickness. And it is strong. The printer is good and this voltage and driver update is about faster warming of the heat bed and doing away with the hum of the stepper motors.

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## AutoWiz

So I decided to go with a lighter weight extruder solution. The titan extruder with a lightweight stepper motor..



The carriage and layer fan are a really neat compact setup. I have to design a mount for the proximity sensor for z height and a flag for the optical x endstop that will attach to this new carriage somehow. But I really like how it mounts the layer fan on the back side..



Aside from the power supply upgrade I have decided to also change the stepper motors on x and y axes to 0.9 degree or 400 step/rev motors. The tmc2100 drivers are 1/16 micro stepping and I currently have the 1/32 micro stepping drv8825 stepper drivers. So upgrading the steppers is a good way to keep the resolution up. And at 24v I shouldn't have any issues with skipped steps or holding torque vs. what I was running at 12v. Unfortunately all this means that printalicious is due for some re-wiring..





I don't care how ugly this printer might look to some. This started out as nothing. It was a build from scratch. I started with an ebay unassembled frame and started ordering one piece at a time to make a printer. My other printers I have heavily modified for sure, but this printer I created from nothing. It is not perfect but it is pretty cool. It prints pretty good and it will always be my favorite because it was my creation. And here is the new supply voltage..



There is a voltage adjustment pot on the power supply. I will make that 23.4 say 24.0

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## AutoWiz

I have been trying to get the extruder set up. I drew up and printed a small piece to hold the proximity sensor, then I made a piece to attach the wires to and got to this point..




While the proximity sensor is held firmly in position the other piece kinda pivots a little on the one screw that holds it in place. This and the pursuit of perfection has made me draw up a replacement piece..





And the part is printing.

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## AutoWiz

So here are my old and new designs. I am moving from a 2 piece to a 1 piece setup..



I am happy with the results of this piece and feel I need to go no further here. This is the new extruder for Printalicious..





Now it is all down to making a flag to hang off this carriage and trigger the optical x end stop

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## AutoWiz

I get to spend my sunday afternoon wiring all this up. For this effort I have the best tools anyone could have. A Radio Shack digital Soldering Station and Snap-On Tools flagship scantool the Verus Edge. Among other things this has a 4 channel lab scope and multimeter. With a touchscreen. And a core i7cpu. And it runs windows7. I very much look forward to and enjoy using these tools..



Once the wiring is complete I will use the Verus Edge to verify forward current on all stepper motors then it is on to breaking out the thermal imager for temp verifications.

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## AutoWiz

And Printalicious is all whole and back together and I even adjusted the voltage pot on the power supply so this beast is running at exactly 24 volts..



And I Think this pretty much brings to a close the lion's share of the printer mods that I wanted to make happen. So I have cleaned up my creation station and rewired power so that all of the printers and the pc are going through the battery backup. This way I will never again have to worry about loosing a print to a power surge regardless of the machine I am using...



Now I got some fine tuning to do on all machines and we will see how good they can print. And then we will see how fast they can print good.

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## curious aardvark

That is one super complicated extruder setup !
Impressive looking :-)

Printalicious lol
I like it.

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## AutoWiz

Ya man. This is the fourth extruder configuration for this printer. When I first built this machine I tried going for the 3 colors with the diamond hotend..



That kept jamming so I tried the single e3dv6 hotend still using 1 of my wade extruders..



Then I decided to dump the wade extruder and ptfe tubing and go with a mk8 extruder..



All in the name of chasing better quality. Or at least wanting a comparison. The name Printalicious came about as I had to name the profile for my homemade printer settings in repetier host. I have 4 printers and they all connect to one pc. The others are named monoprice mini, GEEETech i3, and Tevo Black Widow. Printalicious was the best I could come up with on short notice, lol.

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## AutoWiz

Here's the real money shot. This right here is why all the mods and continued building. This is what makes my printers better than the rest(potentially). Check out all the steps I get per mm of travel on each axis. And even the extruder..



320 steps per mm on x and y is outstanding. And it is achieved with a combination of 0.9 degree stepper motors and drv8825 drivers. The rest of you get to have only 160 or 80 steps per mm of travel. 1/2 or 1/4 the resolution. I only bothered with these steppers on x and y. The fine thread lead screws put the z axis into a really high step count and the geared extruders do the same. The titan I am using here is 3:1 gear reduction. which translates to 3 times the amount of steps per mm of filament travel or 3 times finer control.

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## AutoWiz

With the Snap-On thermal imager  I can look at all the temps together at once and get the bigger picture of the heat sources in my printer(s)..

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## AutoWiz

Here's hoping everybody else had a good time yesterday. I sure know we did..

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## AutoWiz

Back on the GEEETech i3 printer one last modification I decided needed to happen was a 0.9 degree or 400 step/rev. stepper motor for the mk8 extruder just to get that step count up and I also dropped the nozzle diameter down to .3mm..




If we all remember I swapped in a mks base 1.5 mainboard that has 1/16 micro stepping drivers attached to the board without sockets..



So there are fine thread lead screws on the Z axis and 400 step/rev motors for X, Y, and E..

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## AutoWiz

OK we are at the end of the mission creep here. All the printer modifying is done and what I have is dialed in. It is time to fire up my creation station and get these machines building me something. My goals are ambitiously large projects. So tonight all 3 printers are running together..



The GEEETech i3:




Printalicious:




and the Tevo Black Widow:

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## AutoWiz

I am tickled pink at the way my printers are working right now..

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## AutoWiz

And I loaded brown pla into all the printers. No need to make things look all fruity n stuff..

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## AutoWiz

Well I thought I was done building. I sure wanted , ... or thought I wanted to be done building and re working these machines. But here's the thing. At this point I have picked up a lot of experience in 3d printing. Obviously I have made and printed out a lot of parts getting the machines this far, right? So in the beginning I only used a pc connectioin to print from. It was real cool to watch repetier draw out each line real time and show cooling of the filament. But once I got multiple machines up and going it just became an obstacle to have to damn the pc to driving the hours long print. I started exploring other ways to print when I got the monoprice mini printer. At first I printed on that with the micro sd card, and then I tried the wifi thing. I might be a little immature in this claim as I haven't explored octoprint, yet, but so far for me, the best fastest and easiest and most direct and reliable method to 3d printing is a .gco file saved on a sd card. From my experience and with my 3 printers on 1 bench as I try to make things that use all the printers, what works the best and fastest is having the multiple printer configurations saved in repetier host and just slicing the .stl file with the right configuration, put it on an sd card, start the print and forget about it and all the resources of my creation station save that one printer are still readily available to me. I feel that even when I do get octoprint up and going I will find that it has some nice features but still adds to the steps involved to getting a sliced file printed. 

It is in this spirit that I have taken notice and a special liking to these mks tft32 3.2" color touchscreens. I put one on the Black Widow printer..




And I put one on the GEEETech i3..




It is nice using these printers. It is real nice playing with their touchscreens and printing from sd with the touchscreens. Printalicious is stuck with the lcd12864 display with knob because when I built it I had delusions of a 3 color mixing printer and so I needed a board with 6 stepper drivers and the megatronics v3 seemed to fit that bill. But it is not compatible with the mks touchscreen. So the only way for me to get Printalicious on par with my other 2 printers is to upgrade the controller to an mks compatible part. Like the same mks gen that is in the Black Widow. So there is going to be another round of upgrades in the form of a controller and display swap. Because I can't stand the way this looks..



When I touch a screen I need something to happen. I need to see some kind of a reaction or I want to touch the screen harder.

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## AutoWiz

Right. So my last post was motivation enough for me to go ahead and get those parts ordered. God Bless the open source printers and ebay. These are all cheap upgrades that bring real results. I bought this board from a similar auction: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Control-Moth...UAAOSw9~5ZS5ca

MKS has multiple lines of their boards. There is the Gen and the Base boards. I have a Base board on the GEEETech i3 and it works fantastically. But the integrated stepper drivers with no sockets that are soldered directly to the board are fixed at 1/16 micro stepping and really limit upgrade flexibility. The Gen board will let me use the DRV8825 drivers with 1/32 micro stepping or the tmc2100 drivers that I plan on running now that this printer is 24v. And the touchscreen I ordered was from an auction just like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-K...YAAOSwDtpZbyIM

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## AutoWiz

Parts are in..



Alright so Printalicious is in cue for a heart transplant. Gonna figure out where and how I want to mount everything and print out some parts first.

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## AutoWiz

So I found an enclosure for the touchscreen that someone else designed on thingiverse. I printed it out with the GEEETech i3..



The GEEETech printer has a 0.3mm nozzle so it takes longer to print anything on this machine but the end result is nice..

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## AutoWiz

I always thought the 300x200 heatbed was a lot for the mainboard to handle on its own. So with the mks gen board there is also a solid state relay or mosfet to install..



It is good to have because the printer supports a larger bed and I might very well find my way to the max dimensions heatbed so it is good to get ssr installed now. Also I am switching the z axis back to the a4988 drivers. While I am always trying for more steps/mm I fear the z axis is overkill at 5120. So the a4988 steppers will bring that back to 2560. Now I just gotta change a bunch of connectors and get this bad boy wired up.

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## AutoWiz

It is not uncommon for me to juggle multiple projects at the same time. While I am working on this controller upgrade I have the GEEETech i3 printing out more parts for the printed printer I am making. Unfortunately my spool holder has failed. This was a bad design on my part..



The legs were too thin and the one in the front broke off and the 2.2lb spool always made it bow. So I drew up something a little thicker in autodesk 123d design..



And with the filament spool on a tabletop spool holder sitting on a chair in front of the printer I printed the part out with the i3..



As always with this machine, I am very happy with the results..



It fits nicely on the frame and has no deflection with a fresh spool of filament sitting on it..

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## AutoWiz

With that out of the way we can get back to Printalicious. The mks board uses different connectors for everything which means I get to use my awesome radio shack soldering station again. yea..



No excuses for sloppy wiring..



Now, I really want to show off this achievement. And this is an achievement. All 3 of my printers have the same input setup. That is for my kids using them it only matters that they chose the right printer before slicing. But all 3 machines are identical for them to use. Here is printalicious powered up with the new touchscreen..



The Tevo Black Widow..



And the GEEETech i3..

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## AutoWiz

my printer selection..



and all printers can operate completely independent of any other hardware. Just load up the file, choose the printer you want to use, slice the file, stick it on an sd card put it in the printer and hit print. all of my printers find home on their own and really require no prep before print. The touchscreens make printing from sd an enjoyable thing.

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## AutoWiz

first print with the new controller..

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## curious aardvark

question for you. 
You know the 8 pin connector wire for the tft touch screen. 
Any idea where I can get a longer one ? 

Given the delta I'm building will be 1.5metres tall. The control panel will need to be able top be moved around depending on where the printer is kept. ie - if on a table, it'll need t come about half way down the printer. if on the floor probably best on top. So I need a longer cable. 

Can't even find a listing anywhere for the connectors let alone the actual cable.

Guess I could make up a cable with individual crimped connectors, but would be nice to get the proper thing.

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## AutoWiz

In my darker and more evil days before I was doing so well building on these corvettes I had to do harsh things to get by. One of the things I used to do was open xbox 360 consoles, remove the optical drive, open it, and reflash the firmware in the optical drive so it would read burnt games. I also used to open Motorola surfboard 5100 and 5101 modems and solder in a male 10 pin header to the board so I could connect a cable and flash new firmware to that and get free internet using a dns number that the cable company uses for their techs. From doing that I have a bunch of these..



You can use one of these to connect 2 or as many lengths of your ribbon together as you like. cut 2 pins off one end so it is an 8 pin header and then slide the black plastic to the middle of the pins. This is a 10 pin male header. dirt cheap on ebay.

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## AutoWiz

It is time to start having fun with these printers already. I have been upgrading on them for a while now and it is time to start seeing some results already. So here is the .2mm nozzle for the GEEETech i3..



And we are going to start with .075 layer height..



And we are going to try these settings on a boat named benchy..



Slic3r says it is going to be 638 layers and take 4.5hrs to print this little boat

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## AutoWiz

here is benchy as printed out with my GEEETech i3 printer with .2mm nozzle and .075mm layer height..



Real nice right? So now I am trying .025mm layer height. That is 40 layers per mm of height. It is going to take 13.6 hours to print benchy this way..



results are about 13.6 hours away

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## AutoWiz

So Irma blew by and tested my battery backup. Friday evening multiple transformers atop power poles outside my home exploded or burnt in such a way that made a loud electrical shorting noise and lit up the sky a blue-greenish color for a few seconds. And then everything went dark. Except my 3d printer..



Ya unfortunately this happened about 5 hours into the 13.6 hr print from the above post and the battery backup is good for ~ 2 hours. So I lost the print anyways but this counts as a test of my backup system and it kicked in and worked flawlessly and the printer never missed a beat. We got our power on today. Still no internet/cable and bad cell phone reception in areas. I am on the east coast of South Florida. In Broward County.

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## mjf55

> So Irma blew by ...  ... So I lost the print anyways but this counts as a test of my backup system and it kicked in and worked flawlessly and the printer never missed a beat. We got our power on today. Still no internet/cable and bad cell phone reception in areas. I am on the east coast of South Florida. In Broward County.


Glad you came thru Irma ok.  My friend in Delray Beach also was ok.  I use to live in Deerfield Beach, so I know about these storms, no fun.

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## AutoWiz

> Glad you came thru Irma ok.  My friend in Delray Beach also was ok.  I use to live in Deerfield Beach, so I know about these storms, no fun.


Ya man. I hail from Pompano Beach. We just got our cable and internet back today. Life is getting back to normal. There is still a lot of downed trees, big trees, everywhere. But we got is easy compared to a lot of people. We are very grateful that we are recovering so quickly.

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## curious aardvark

what do you do with all the benchies ?

Have to admit i have never done a benchy or any of the other calibration prints. I tend to just print things I want, or small practical items for give aways. 
Just don't see the point of wasting plastic on something that won't tell me anything that a practical item won't. 

To test a 0.2mm nozzle it would have to be something very small with fine detail - or why bother using such a small nozzle ?

Any idea what those cable connectors are called ? I keep finding that the things I am searching for only seem to exist under a very specific nomenclature, invariably not what I am using :-)

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## AutoWiz

I just keep re printing the same test print making adjustments and printing the same thing again..



I have printed this same boat so many times. Here are some earlier prints from some of my other machines..



The ones in the back row show just how far I have come. They taught me to not just have a layer fan but to pay attention to how and where it is aimed. among other things. And you are totally right. The smaller diameter nozzle and shorter layer heights are for fine detail and they come at a heavy price of time to print. That is why I have multiple printers. The 200x200x180 printer has a .2mm nozzle, The 300x200x200 has a .3mm nozzle, And the 390x250x400(I think?) has a .4mm nozzle. All nozzles are plated and high lubricity micro swiss. They are the only nozzles I will run anymore. The cost of them makes me feel like they are of a very high quality, lol.

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## AutoWiz

And on a side note, the color of the painter's tape really adds to the look of my navy. makes them look not so much like dry dock.  And that is just one more argument for using the 3m blue painter's tape, I think.

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## AutoWiz

In the picture with the green, black, and red boats the black boat on the right was printed at 0.025mm layer height with a 0.2mm nozzle. And at 40 layers per mm of build height the lines on the roof of the boat are all but gone. While everyone else is trying to chemically melt their prints to make the lines diminish. I know a better way.

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## AutoWiz

At this point  I can not deny that for me the joy that comes in this hobby is upgrading the printers. That is why I love 3d printing. How crazy is that? So anyways, back on page 4 of this thread I upgraded the mainboard on my GEEETech i3 to a MKS Base 1.5 board. At the time my concern was getting to use that 3.2" color touchscreen and I didn't understand how bad of a thing integrated stepper drivers are..Today I have chased down tmc2208 drivers for my other printers and this is by far the loudest machine I have. So to make this a machine that can print quietly there are a few things that must happen. First we must get this printer to run off of 24v. Because the tmc2208 drivers have ample holding torque in stealthchop2 at 24v. So here is the new 24v power supply..I setup my stepper drivers a little different than most. I haven't had any fail on me yet but I have observed that they do get hot. So I like to hunt down some 8 pin tall stackable Arduino headers and some extra stepper driver heatsinks, the tall ones, and I setup my tmc2208 drivers like this..This way the temps at the stepper drivers are lower. And now the new MKS GEN L board is ready for installation. This should be pretty close to a direct swap for the base 1.5 board. I think they both even use all the same connectors.

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## AutoWiz

So with the two boards next to each other we can see before we even begin that the base board has a slightly larger footprint than the Gen L board. This will likely mean that the mounting holes will not line up and I will have to drill a few new holes in my GEEETech frame..The nice thing is that since both boards are mks' latest architecture I didn't have to change any connectors and everything just plugged right in. everything was even in pretty much the same place on both boards. So despite the drilling that had to take place this was by far the easiest board swap I have done yet..I have also already changed all 3 fans on this printer to 24v and will change the heater cartridge to a high precision e3d ceramic heater and I will resolder the heatbed to the 24v points on the underside of the bed. This printer will be back online real soon.

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## AutoWiz

The 24v power supply is in and the new mainboard with tmc2208 drivers is in. the next step for my prusa i3 here is to do something about that mk8 extruder. I am not a real big fan of direct drive. I like the 3:1 gear reduction that the titan and titan aero offer. Without spending any more money here I have amassed a wealth of extruder parts..



Time to see if I have what I need to get a titan aero(clone) up and going on my GEEETech i3 pro B from 2016.

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## AutoWiz

So here is the titan aero in mockup with the mount and layer fan..I still have to design and print a Z sensor mount and then get all this mounted to the printer. It matches perfectly my other 2 printers now. Down to the noctua fan..

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## AutoWiz

This GEEETech i3 is all back together and up and running at 24v. The LM2596 step down converter don't lie(by more than 1/2 a volt)..



Here is the new titan aero clone extruder setup all powered up and ready to go..



I now have this same extruder and layer fan setup on all 3 of my printers. I can't say enough good things about this setup..



I also upgraded the belts on this machine to the gates fiberglass reinforced gt2 belts and swapped the smooth idler pulleys for toothed idler pulleys. Here is my GEEETech prusa i3 all together and ready to print again..

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## AutoWiz

Today I have all of my machines back together and have got the printers calibrated enough to start with the test prints. I never wanted a 3d printer to print out busts or trinkets or figurines or stuff, For me it was always just another way to make a part. So I am not going to demonstrate what my printers can do with a test print from maker's muse or anything like that. For me the test print is going to be this airframe that comes with incredibly detailed build instructions:  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1831295 

To make things interesting for me I am running this test side by side with my other 2 printers. So I will have 3 different color airframes when I am done. Here ismy workbench with all 3 machines working on their own airframes..

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## AutoWiz

Here is the rear center section of the craft being printed. This is the part that will house the EDF..Here are a few pictures of the EDF housing with the EDF cover..And here is my cheap ebay printer printing out the main body section..

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## AutoWiz



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## AutoWiz

Oh ya. I am building an Air Force..

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## AutoWiz

Almost there..

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## AutoWiz

The assembly line..

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## AutoWiz

So all 6 jets are done. I reprinted some parts to try to make them 2 tone so i can tell which way is up when the craft is far away. I am extremely pleased with the performance of my printers thus far. Here is my Air Force..

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## curious aardvark

got any off the ground yet ?

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## AutoWiz

> got any off the ground yet ?


Still working on the electronics. As you know i am pretty good with electrical/electronic systems and This is where i plan to make up for the lack of actual flying experience. So to keep it cutting edge, I am using a quad or drone only controller. The controller i am using is generally not good for fixed wing aircraft because it does not support channel mixing (for ailerons and elevons) and it also does not have any support for trims. In fact the controllers i got looks very much like a game controller. Turnigy Evolution. I use these with a good flight stabilizer, the HobbyEagle A3super 3 V2. This works with the digital s.bus input that comes from the IA6C (drone only) reciever and gives me everything i need. Channel mixing, 5 out channels for servos and esc, and by nature the flight stabilizer assumes all trim functions. For me this selection was natural. First time out. With no experience and i bet i will maintain flight on my very first try. Just because i know how to setup and rely on the electronics. But for the moment, I am bench testing. And here is my makeshift testbench:

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## curious aardvark

presumably witha drone controller you could have the vr glasses as well :-) 
That could make you sick real quick lol

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## AutoWiz

> presumably witha drone controller you could have the vr glasses as well :-) That could make you sick real quick lol


I have every intention of ending up with a high quality FPV setup. Sadly these craft I do not think will support the extra hardware. But there will be more after this. Aside from drones there are larger aircraft that will have more room for electronics. Have you seen this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDppqGm-x0II might go after the p38 lightning with the retractable landing gear. That thing looks cool.

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## halenrauch

That is one super complicated extruder setup !
Impressive looking :-)

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## AutoWiz

Well geez, I mean, it's only been 2 years since anyone posted in my thread here, but TY for the bump. It was a cool trip down memory lane to see the things I did in my early days with 3d printing. For any curious after all this time my preferred way to print is by SD card. it is still the easiest and most reliable way. However I have a handful of the biqu wifi modules to apply to my printers and see how all that goes. So maybe I will update this thread with that.

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## curious aardvark

yeah, this time of year my workshop is cold ! Around 10-12c. 

I could haeat it more, but that would cost a lot of money and the laser cutter likes the cold. 

The older I get the wimpier I become. So at the moment I'm designing and slicing in the house - in th relative warm and only going into the workshop to run the prints. 

Now I do have a spare smartphone that I could easily rig up as a network camera fairly easily to keep an eye on the printer being used.

I can also easily add a little g-code to the startup code, and maybe a brush to the edge of the bed to catch the dribble to make sure the initial dribble is wiped before print starts. 
So I just need an easy way to upload prints over the network. 

If printing over usb was more reliable I could simply just use my workshop machine remotely. 
But windows 10 and long usb prints are a bad combination and often the usb connection resets and the print stops. 
So we'll avoid that route.

Have to look and see if there are wifi adaptors for the robin nano boards and actually how useful they are. 

My mini delta has wifi - and it's totally bloody useless :-)
You can upload the gcode file to the memory card. So don't want that again.

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## curious aardvark

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1pc-MKS-R...kAAOSwS1pfvIaN
well for £8 - might as well order one and see what happens :-)




> *Features:* 
> Auto search hotspot after power-on,connect hotspot directly by the screen.     
> RepetierHost/pronterface remote control instead of usb.     
> With "MKS Plugin"(developed by makerbase for cura),cura remote control and transfer files(100kb/s).     
> PC or mobile phone's browser remote control and transfer files.(developing...)     
> With "MKS CLOUD"APP (developed by makerbase), user can control and monitor 3d printer in other city.


Looks promising. be a couple months getting here - or maybe a couple weeks. 
I did order some cheap usb bluetooth adaptors 22md october - that have yet to arrive, so you never really know how long things from china will take :-)
Just checked and wednesday - 13th jan is the last day given for delivery of the bluetooth adaptors. 
So, hey time yet lol

But will be interesting to try it out.

Firmware already has wifi section, soooo it might even just plug and play. 
Now stop laughing, it 'could' happen ;-)

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## AutoWiz

> That is one super complicated extruder setup !
> Impressive looking :-)


You should see my 3 color mixing printer, Printalicious.. 
 
That thread is right here: My 3 Color Mixing Printer (3dprintboard.com)

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## curious aardvark

well roll me in treacle and call me a waffle - the wifi module arrived today ! 
9 days from china - could be some kind of record :-)

No sign of the bluetooth adaptors though, they might end up breaking another record  lol

Got some workshop time today, so might give it a try. 

It has occurred to me that the wifi signal in my workshop is truly awful - and there's no visible aerial or external aerial ports on the module - sooo, it might work, but just not pick up a signal. 
Might have to fit a booster in the workshop. Which would probably be a good idea anyway. 

It's always the way, a cheap addition tends to snowball and become an expensive project :-)

But I've got it anyway :-)

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## curious aardvark

right ! 
we have progress :-)

Some idiot had not installe the module correctly. 
when i find him I'll give him a right good kicking ! ;-)

Anyway, once i decided to chck and then fitted it correctly - not only did my sdcard reader start working again, but the firmware installed for the wifi module. 

No networks showed - which i was expecting, my house signal is weak in my workshop and the module is in a steel box on top of a fridge :-)

Then I had a thought and set up a wifi hotspot on my phone - picked it up straight away and connected. 
Wahey it works ! 

So then I happened to notice that windows 10 allows you to generate it's own hotspot local wifi network. 
So I did that and can now connect the printer wirelessly directly to the computer. 

Now it gets interesting. 

When you access the printer via the ip address you get a simple screen which offers you the chance to select html or set the modules own access point info. 

I cannot find any ingotmation on html to upload to the mocule to create a useful web menu. 
I do - vaguely - remember doing something similiar for the mini delta. But whil itlet you print via wifi - it did not let you upload a file to the sd card. 
To my mind the main reason for having wifi. 

So in one respect - 100% success. 
In another - totally bloody useless :-)

There is an mks add-in for cura, but as I don't use cura that's no use to me. 

Can't find any html frontends for the mks wifi module and mks just use github - which I find almost impossible to ever get any sense out of.

No way that I can see of connecting simplify3d to it, I'll look into prusaslicer later - should have a couple days workshop time this week. 

But if anyone has any idea how to proceed from here - I'd really like to know :-)

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## AutoWiz

That sounds like the exact problem I was having with the Monoprice mini printer I had. It could print from wifi. You would setup the wifi info then open a browser from your pc type in the ip address and you get this screen where you can print a file. BUT it is feeding gcode real time to the printer to print. Like printing from USB but over a wifi connection. I mean how unstable is that for hours and hours on end? The SKR boards all have a built in microsd card slot. Right on the mainboard. So it seems logical to me that I can send a whole file to the printer from wifi but I have not tested this theory, yet. However, I do already have 2 of the wifi modules for the skr boards and So I might try getting one up and going tonight just to see how that works.

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## AutoWiz

> But if anyone has any idea how to proceed from here - I'd really like to know :-)


All the tft v3.0 screens from biqu or bigtreetech have built in 32 bit processors right on them. They are feature packed and you can just wire a filament runout switch into them and not have to make any firmware changes. You can send gcode to your mainboard from the tft v3.0. And they have a header on them for the wifi module. SO you might be able tu use one of these screens with a wifi module in the back of it to send a file to the tft's sd card slot and then command the print to start from there? And you could do that without any firmware changes or re wiring the printer for a new mainboard. The tft's are all plug n play because they communicate over that rx and tx serial connection. like a usb device.

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## curious aardvark

Robin nano boards and screens are a paired item. The card slot us on the board, not the screen. 
So the WiFi router module goes on the board.

You have to upload a, basically a website, before you can do anything useful via ip access.
I'm looking for the html file.

It's the same way the Malayan WiFi works or more accurately: doesn't work.

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## AutoWiz

I am telling you that the v3.0 tft touchscreens will work with your robin nano board. You just need to either solder in a 4p header of some variety or just solder your 5v, gnd, tx, and rx wires directly to the pads in the circle below..

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## AutoWiz

The v3.0 touchscreen for the ender3 is still 3.5" but it is a few dollars cheaper and I think the cheapest entry into the v3.0 tft's. It is just under $30 here: BTT TFT35-E3 V3.0 Display Touch Screen Two Working Modes – Biqu Equipment . And the wifi module is under $4 here: ESP-01S WIFI Module ESP8266 For SKR PRO TFT35 – Biqu Equipment . Both of these together are under $35 and will empower you to send a file to the tft and then start the print from the wifi on the tft. It is a different path to take for sure but this path requires no mobo swapping or firmware fun. plug n play all the way. ...just let me verify sending a file to my tft via wifi first. I am on it right now. Stay tuned...

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## AutoWiz

Here is a link to a mini jst 4p connector set. You can put a permanenet connector on the board with this if you like: 10 Sets Mini JST 2.0mm PH 4-Pin Male Female Connector Plug Wires Cables | eBay  . Maybe solder it to the underside so the option is still there to run the mks wifi module if you ever wanted to. Oh and watch this video on what we are doing here, please: Add wifi to your Bigtreetech mainboard/touchscreen - ESP-01S guide - YouTube

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## curious aardvark

You're really missing the point. 
1) the robin has it's own propriatary 3.5 touch screen that connects with a ribbon cable. If you use this screen - great screen. Then the wifi module plugs into the board itself. 
2) My module is connected and FULLY working - as is my 3.5 tft touchscreen. 

3) when you connect to the router (which is what it basically is) this is the screen you get: 
saphnet.JPG

And that's ALL you get. 

So what I need is a 'website' or 'webview' html to upload to the router to actually make it useful. 

IT IS CONNECTED AND WORKING (lol) 

I just have no idea how to do anything useful with it.

I just can't find any literature on what you have to do next. 
I do know that with the mini delta (malyan setup) you could change the webview by uploading html and that would give you a better interface. 

I don't want to have to go thorugh a raspberry pi.

There really should bhe a way to just upload a file to the sdcard via the network. 

4) I do not need any other hardware, the screen is great thje wifi and networking are WORKING. 

So if you could step away from the 'must upgrade' impulse and have a think about what you do when you get to the point where it actually works. That would be great :-)

This is the module I have: 
wifi module.JPG

As far as I can tell it's the latest version. 

There are thousands of posts telling you how to connect the bloody thing. But absolutely nothing I can find that tells you what to do afterwards.

Oh yeah if i connect directly to the wifi network the module generates (use my phone) I get EXACTLY the same green screen.

Oh yeah - there is a phone app: mks cloud app. 
You have to sideload it - BUT it is in CHINESE ONLY :-(
And i have to admit my written mandarin is a little sketchy.

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## spegelius

> You're really missing the point. 
> 1) the robin has it's own propriatary 3.5 touch screen that connects with a ribbon cable. If you use this screen - great screen. Then the wifi module plugs into the board itself. 
> 2) My module is connected and FULLY working - as is my 3.5 tft touchscreen. 
> 
> 3) when you connect to the router (which is what it basically is) this is the screen you get: 
> saphnet.JPG
> 
> And that's ALL you get. 
> 
> ...


I hope I'm wrong but I think that page is only for uploading new firmware and that very html page you are looking at. That's the only function for it. I have a touchscreen with Wifi and have that same view, I didn't have enough interest to see if that's actually all it is so the screen is now unused as I use Octoprint.

Edit: well I went and did a search, turns out there's more to the wifi afterall: https://youtu.be/f651bIg4SCo?t=514. Apparently you can connect to the wifi using Pronterface and control the printer.

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## curious aardvark

yep so i read, there is also a cura module that lets you do other stuff. 

I was hoping there were other ways to use it. 

I do know that you CAN change the web code it uses when you access via the ip address. That's what the second uploas option is for. 

But first I need some html to upload to it :-)

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## AutoWiz

The reality at the end of the day with ALL ESP modules is incredibly slow transfer rates. As the many youtube tutorials on these go. There is a software that you will use like pronterface and if you connect the module to the touchscreen you can only move files and see what the printer is doing but you will NOT be able to send a start command. So I am wrong but more to the point, this absolutely pales in comparison to the pi with octoprint. And that brings about the new direction I really want to steer this thread if at all possible. In the beginning of this thread I was trying to get a pi up and working with octoprint and ultimately failed miserably. These are new days. I have been printing for years now. And I would really like to take another whack at it. This time around with the 32 bit mainboard and a pi 4. My main goal here is octolapse videos of the extruder removed and the print seemingly building itself out of thin air. I need a walk through of how to make this happen. What is a good camera to use for this? It was a while ago now when I tried and I have since explored other ways and in the end they all end up being less than this path I never figured out. Do you CA or Spegelius have or had an octolapse setup working?

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## curious aardvark

I definitely read somewhere that yo8u could get 100mbs transfer rates over wifi. Given how small gcode files are - that would be more than enough. 

It's weird - there are a LOT of wifi enabled printers around, plus it only costs a few quid to make most existing printers wifi capable and bugger all software to do anything with them. 
Definitely a gap in the market for a useful app or program of some kind. 
I'd pay a few quid for something useful that ran under windows. 

Any idea what pi's octoprint runs on I've got a (goes to look) original pi 1 from 2012. Would that be any good ? 
Never used it or found anything to use it for. 
At the time it was cheap and interesting - like a lot of the 'techno junk' I seem to collect lol

By comparison the latest pi4 is pretty expensive - I can get a reasonable mini itx board, chip and ram for around £30 - pi4 with same spec runs at around £60. 
Hell you can get a full android tablet with better spec than a pi4 for less than a pi4. 

I guess they are useful - but no longer the miracle entry level project board they used to be. 

So uses for a pi original :-)

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## AutoWiz

I am entirely too enthusiastic about this hobby to focus on the dollar amount past getting that number up to buy what I need. I mean want. No I was right the first time. What I NEED. If we were trying to achieve an end with the fewest dollars spent possible there is now a pi nano that rivals the size of the arduino nano. And if that won't drive octoprint I know the pi zero will. The thing is along with and as a part of octoprint we want to use a very hd camera for the pictures and video. And I want to connect to the pi fast and I want it to send me information in actual real time and not many seconds to a minute behind. And when I send a command over wifi to the pi I want to see an immediate reaction without delay. And I want the video I see via the pi to be sharp, crisp, and play smoothly without hanging or lagging. And so while we can run a printer with a bottom end dirt cheap pi, we will always find the features that we love to play with so much will always work better on the higher end pi's that have more onboard memory, faster onboard memory, and better onboard processors. Because they will always drive the ancillaries in a vastly better capacity. To include the onboard wifi. We need an opinion of pi vs. RRF because I think that is really the 2 best ways to go wifi for printing. I am pretty sure  we can get a RRF module now to convert any 32 bit printer mainboard to RRF using the exp1 &exp2 headers. But i honestly think the pi is still the better way to go just because of octolapse. But IDK because I never got octopi up and working and I have never used RRF. ....yet!

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## curious aardvark

I like to get value for money. Plus money is scarce.
I've already got a pi original :-)

it does precede octoprint - so might not work. 

I'll get the octoprint image and have a play.




> *Recommended hardware: Raspberry Pi 3B, 3B+ or 4B. Expect print artifacts and long loading times with other  options, especially when adding a webcam or installing third party plugins.* Setups not using recommended hardware are not officially supported.
>   Please note that the *Raspberry Pi Zero W is not recommended explicitly* since severe performance  issues were observed, caused by the WiFi interface when bandwidth is utilized (e.g. the webcam is streamed), negatively  impacting printing quality. See also here.


Oh well - I'll go back to plan a and see what i can do with the esp-12s module. 

I mean I can reach the sdcard socket in the sapphire pro from where I'm sitting. 
printer control and print starting would be more use than file transfer anyway. 

I mean at the moment I have to stand up and take a step and everything !

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## AutoWiz

Well the RRF module from bigtreetech uses one of those esp modules but instead of communicating via usb or the serial tft header it connects to exp1 and exp2 headers. I don't see how this will let us bring a camera into the mix but it is only $11 or so. BIGTREETECH BTT RRF Wifi V1.0 Module Expansion board 3D Printer Parts – Biqu Equipment . I already have a pi 4. I just need a walk through for dummies on how to set it up. I will start with the youtube tutorials and see how far I get this time.

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## curious aardvark

Well I was mooching around on the interweb on my phone over the weekend. 
And i did find what I was looking for. 
It's a combination of custom firmware for the esp mosule and a custom web front end. 

Now i just need to find it again lol

But it's out there and it does what i want it to do. 
Not sure, but I think it did mention something about a camera. 

Now i just need to remember what I put in the search box :-)
Hmm wonder oif chrome has  a web history....

why yes it does :-)
You're looking for: ESP3D - https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D
I know - it's github. Never was a website more aptly named. 

Why do they make it so hard to find stuff ? 




> Note:  MKS fast upload protocol is implemented but it works only with Mks Boards


Good to know :-)

* * *

Well of course it's not that easy. What was I thinking ?

Yoiu have to mucj about with IDE and compile the bloody thing. As far as I can tell NOBODY has ever posted the precompiled binary files. 
Now IDE and I have a hate hate relationship. 
I hate it, it hates me and I have a mperfect 100% failure rate with it. Either the poxy thing doesn't coimpile and spouts a vague and impossible to track down error. OR once in a blue moon it will actually geberate a binary file. 
Which - of course - fails utterly to do anything you wanted it to do. 

I mean between github_(the worst laid out website in internet history)_ and IDE - I'm starting to think someone is trying to tell me something...

So anyway I've posted a thread on the sapphire pro facebook group and have my fingers crossed that someone has already done this thing and can give me the binary and config files. 
I'm prepared to wait before fighting IDE and risking terminal blood pressure !

----------


## AutoWiz

Well I look forward to you finding a good use for the ESP module as I have amasses a small handful of them and would love to use them in a meaningful way.

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## curious aardvark

check out esp3d

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## AutoWiz

Well alright. It is about time we revived this thread, CA. I have one BTT Octopus installed and am wiring it in and another that will arrive in the mail tomorrow or the day after. I very much plan on running the TronXY off of Klipper but for the time the BTT Octopus and also the new SKR 2 have a new wifi socket and use better wifi than the older 32 bit boards. For the SKR 1.3, SKR 1.4, SKR pro, and of the MKS boards and all the TFT's that have that 8 pin wifi header all we could do was the ESP-01S module. This painfully slow and limited guy right here: 

ESP-01S WIFI Module ESP8266 For SKR PRO TFT35 – Biqu Equipment 

But for the new boards there is a header that looks kind like the stepper motor driver sockets but the pins are a bit wider apart. These new boards will take either the ESP-07S here: 

BTT ESP-07S Module – Biqu Equipment 

Or the ESP-12S module. The new Octopus board uses a 180mhz processor and with the upgraded wifi capabilities I am anxious to see if this option is now functional. Because lord knows the ESP-01s was more proof of concept than a functional thing. Anyways I bought 2 of these ESP-12S modules as they are pretty cheap and I will report back here just as soon as I get one up and going and have something to share about it: 

BIGTREETECH ESP8266 – Biqu Equipment

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## AutoWiz

Well I thought I ordered 2 of these bad boys but for some reason I got 4 delivered to me. I have already installed 2 on the 2 Octopus mainboards and have no other use ATM for these guys.. 

 

They will also work with the SKR 2 mainboard. Maybe I will get one of those to play with at some point. If anybody out there inside the USA wants one of these let me know. So long as the shipping is easy and cheap I will just send it. I am almost done with the first Octopus build so I will get to see what the esp-12s can do soon.

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## curious aardvark

what are they ?

oh hang on - looks like the wifi module i have.

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## huntertrolls123

Pretty hard to find these here. Luckily got in the offline market. Glad I was outside India.

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## AutoWiz

Yes but does anybody know how to set this up? I have the ESP-01 modules. A few of them. And A BTT writer for programming them before installing them on the SKR 1.4 board. But these are different. Aren't they? I can not find any specific instructions on getting this up and going on the BTT octopus which is the same or extremely similar to the new SKR 2. I will keep searching the internet but if anybody here knows how to get this setup I would really love a hand and I have 2 extras I am more than willing to share.

----------

