# Specific 3D Printers, Scanners, & Hardware > CTC 3D Printers >  New CTC Owner

## bigo93

Hi there, just recently bought a CTC 3D printer.

Which mods would you recommend to improve quality of prints?

So far I am thinking about**:
Y axis brackets
brass bushings for all axes


Thanks

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## EagleSeven

> Hi there, just recently bought a CTC 3D printer.
> 
> Which mods would you recommend to improve quality of prints?
> 
> So far I am thinking about**:
> Y axis brackets
> brass bushings for all axes
> 
> 
> Thanks


Which Model do you have ?
If it's the Bizer then the first thing you need is a bracket to keep wires from bending and breaking at top of extruder assembly. 
I'm not sure if other models need that also but probably Do.
(All wires need to be clamped into this part with tie-wraps or twist-ties)
The filament-Guides fit into this part also, better than original part.
It can be downloaded from thingiverse.com and printed:

Click picture for larger view of part:
ExtruderGuide_Clamp.jpg

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## bigo93

Yes it's the black bizer I model: http://www.ctcprinter.com/product_detail.php?ProId=23

The seller I bought from didnt send the filament tubes, claiming we dont need them. But if we do I can get some from hardware store I guess.

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## EagleSeven

> Yes it's the black bizer I model: http://www.ctcprinter.com/product_detail.php?ProId=23
> 
> The seller I bought from didnt send the filament tubes, claiming we dont need them. But if we do I can get some from hardware store I guess.


Yes, those Tubes Are Needed, to keep filament going Straight down into extruder.
Filament can get bent and not feed properly without it.

The next thing you will Want is a glass-plate to go on bed-plate.
(see other threads in this forum for info about that and other Mods I have done to our Bizer)

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## bigo93

K, so for the glass build plate is it simply removing the painters tape, and removing the kapton tape and clamping a sheet of glass on the aluminum bed with some binder clips?
Or would you leave the kapton tape on?

Also which forum sections should I look through, so far I've only looked through this ctc one as I have a ctc printer.
Like is there a general mod section with a sticky with recommended mods?

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## EagleSeven

> K, so for the glass build plate is it simply removing the painters tape, and removing the kapton tape and clamping a sheet of glass on the aluminum bed with some binder clips?
> Or would you leave the kapton tape on?
> 
> Also which forum sections should I look through, so far I've only looked through this ctc one as I have a ctc printer.
> Like is there a general mod section with a sticky with recommended mods?


Yes, clamp the glass directly on to the Aluminum plate, remove all tape for better Heat transfer.
I lightly sanded the aluminum to make it look better, since it had scratches from removing the kapton.
I used Aqua-net spray to hold glass in place and used Clips only until the Aqua-net dried.
(Sanding plate makes it stick better also)
(using hair-spray allows it to be removed fairly easy, if needed, without breaking glass)
 (took several days for it to dry completely, then removed clips)
(nozzles can hit Clips if not positioned correctly, so be careful and remove them as soon as possible)

One Mod I did was printing 4 extension brackets for corners of bed-plate 
so I could install a larger piece of glass to increase bed size 11 1/8" X 6 7/8" , to print larger objects.
 link here: 
http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ender-brackets

If you do this mod before having the glass cut, you will only need the larger size cut  :Wink: 
(I had 3/32" thick glass cut at Lowes-hardware)

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## EagleSeven

This thread also has info on a Needed mod to Mobo-Fan:
http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...nt-Fan-at-Mobo-!

Note: that thread talks about a common Set-screw problem also

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## bigo93

Thanks for the info, will take me a bit before I can do the mods though.

Also any thoughts on print cooling ducts such as http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:191297

Are they helpful at all? I thought keeping the print warmer for longer was better, but then this cools it faster.
So what's the point of these and adding insulating sides on your printer? the two seem to contradict each other.

And when finished with the printer, is it ok to leave the filament in the extruders, or should I remove them when printer is not in use?

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## EagleSeven

> Thanks for the info, will take me a bit before I can do the mods though.
> 
> Also any thoughts on print cooling ducts such as http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:191297
> 
> Are they helpful at all? I thought keeping the print warmer for longer was better, but then this cools it faster.
> So what's the point of these and adding insulating sides on your printer? the two seem to contradict each other.
> 
> And when finished with the printer, is it ok to leave the filament in the extruders, or should I remove them when printer is not in use?



No, those fan ducts and extra fans at nozzles really 'Get In the Way' when working on extruders.
No need for them !
Control nozzle Temp with Slicer-software settings.
I have a 6" 110v fan that cools the X & Y stepper-motors, when they get hot, 
that Also moves enough air at nozzles to do the Same thing, if needed.

There is No need to enclose the printer with covers, panels or doors.
Good airflow is needed for proper cooling of printer parts and the printed objects.

I've had no problems leaving filament in extruders.
I cover the printer and filament in it, with a plastic-sheet, when printer is Not in use,
to keep out any possible moisture and dust.

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## bigo93

I've tried to print the bed supports with ABS, I assume PLA wont be good to use seeing as these will be right next to the heated bed and could melt if PLA right?

Having some issues with it sticking to the masking tape, couldnt find painters tape.
Even used some generic glue on the masking tape, still comes off s little.

As you can see in pic, this print failed at 80% due to glitch in SD card. But the circular hole isnt perfect, it's more of an oval.

Any ideas why? Is a track loose and need tightening?





20151225_150319.jpg

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## EagleSeven

> I've tried to print the bed supports with ABS, I assume PLA wont be good to use seeing as these will be right next to the heated bed and could melt if PLA right?
> 
> Having some issues with it sticking to the masking tape, couldnt find painters tape.
> Even used some generic glue on the masking tape, still comes off s little.
> 
> As you can see in pic, this print failed at 80% due to glitch in SD card. But the circular hole isnt perfect, it's more of an oval.
> 
> Any ideas why? Is a track loose and need tightening?
> 
> ...


Hi, I use PLA for both, the object and supports, much easier that way.

I don't think the glass-supports I printed had oval holes and gaps around them, like that,
but I did use large flat washers there, for better support,
 since the small screw-heads tend to crush the plastic.
I'm Not sure why that would happen only at the hole,
but I think it would have to be something wrong in software (slicer) file.

When you get a glass-plate and Aqua-net All the sticking problems will be gone !  :Wink: 

Have you not been able to connect a computer directly to printer, thru a USB port ??
Everything is much easier that way, instead of using a SD.

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## bigo93

Oh I thought via SD was better as you dont have to worry about random disconnects.

Got another test print going, but again, the ABS is not sticking well to the plate.
Even used double sided sellotape on it! The corners are still coming off :'(

Gonna let this print anyway, and hope the slight warping doesnt affect them. 
And if they dont then hopefully glass plate will work and I can reprint them after.

Also I am using the Markerware software I doubt it will have problems slicing.
Maybe it's the firmware on the CTC, it's still on the one it came with, v1.0; maybe if I upgrade it to sailfish it would help? But read mixed views on upgrading it with a couple people saying they have bricked theirs...

And thanks for the reply, wasnt expecting any for a couple day, Merry Xmas!

But also wont the PLA melt or warp slightly if you use it to make these bed extenders?

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## EagleSeven

> Oh I thought via SD was better as you dont have to worry about random disconnects.
> 
> But also wont the PLA melt or warp slightly if you use it to make these bed extenders?


I used a SD card only once, to see if it worked, 
and have been using USB ever since, It works great for us.
(Much easier to send Slicer files thru USB, with no need to change file types)

No, We never get the bed-temp above 100C, usually at about 80C max on top of glass, and they will not melt at that temp.
I don't think the extenders ever get to that temp though.
(Have not seen any warping of bed-extenders either)

Since the glass is mainly held in place by the hair-spray
all the extenders do is keep it positioned while spray is drying 
and to keep fingers away from sharp glass corners.  :Wink:

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## bigo93

Wait do I need one of these if I add a glass sheet on bed?

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:911247



Also only took the entire day with like half a dozen failed prints but finally got it done.

20151226_033154.jpg

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## EagleSeven

> Wait do I need one of these if I add a glass sheet on bed?
> 
> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:911247
> 
> 
> 
> Also only took the entire day with like half a dozen failed prints but finally got it done.
> 
> 20151226_033154.jpg


We did not need that Adapter at thiniverse, I'm really not sure what it is For ??

Your extenders look Great !

But I would have rotated the position of them to make the bed much longer in X, less in Y direction, as per my description.
Since there is a bed size selection in Makerbot slicer that uses that area in X direction but not much in Y.
In my description I gave measurements of glass as 11 1/8" X 6 7/8",
 which fits, if brackets are positioned that way.
(We have needed that extra length of 11" several times, which is about 12" if angled diagonally)
If you find a way to actually use that extra space in Y direction, using Makerbot slicer, please let me know.

It appears that you still have the Kapton tape on bed-plate.
That needs to be removed before attaching glass to aluminum-plate,
 using Aqua-net spray, for good heat transfer.
(tape will act as an Insulator and effects bed-leveling adjustment also)

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## bigo93

I used a 10x8 sheet of glass from a picture frame. to get the 11x6 one I'd have to get a larger piece and have it cut.

So you need to spray the glass on the bottom and the top then? I thought just the top to help the plastic stick.

That adapter goes behind the CTC sign part on the Z axis.
So if you end up getting a thick piece of glass you place that and the appropriate height spacer so when the bed comes up, the spacer hits the Z axis switch first to prevent the nozzles from smashing through the glass plate.

The glass I have is pretty thin so like yours I didnt need the adapter.


Just done first print with the glass plate.
Extruder guide, but again issues with the holes. and as you can see from the top view the column isnt uniform, the base of it gets narrower for some reason; may be due to the hole issue.

Printed using generic glue stick. Base of print is nice and smooth.
Still an issue with adhesion, might be solved by using stronger glue or hairspray.

20151226_165125.jpg

20151226_165136.jpg

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## EagleSeven

> So you need to spray the glass on the bottom and the top then? I thought just the top to help the plastic stick.
> 
> Just done first print with the glass plate.
> Extruder guide, but again issues with the holes. and as you can see from the top view the column isnt uniform, the base of it gets narrower for some reason; may be due to the hole issue.


Yes, glass needs to be stuck to plate , so it will not be moving around.
(glass moving can also effect bed-leveling adjustment)
Use clips to hold glass down tight until hair-spray is dry, takes several days to dry completely.
Aqua-net is best for that, since it would be more likely to come loose , than most other adhesives,
if glass ever needed to be removed, without braking glass.

Definitely something wrong in slicer settings also !
That Guide has perfectly round and smooth holes in the one I printed.
Not sure what is wrong but I think I would try a slower speed first.
Or maybe the wall-thickness-layers number is wrong, I would try 3 if not at that already.

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## bigo93

I think its definately the belts.

warping happens even when printing a simple washer.

Created another thread in the feedback section, http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...oming-out-oval

Just need to find out how to tighten the belts now.

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## EagleSeven

> I think its definately the belts.
> 
> warping happens even when printing a simple washer.
> 
> Created another thread in the feedback section, http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...oming-out-oval
> 
> Just need to find out how to tighten the belts now.


Do your belts have these little Springs on them ?
(They are on our printer and keep them tight)
If not, you can get them at eBay.

belt springs.jpg

Could the problem be a loose pulley or shaft, that belt rides on ?
Check to see if the stepper-motors are loose at mountings in case,
(I've read about a loose Y-motor causing problems)

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## bigo93

But how do I do that? Cant find any videos on youtube of anyone showing it.

And it did come with one tentioner on each y belt. tried to adjust and now cant get spring back on.
Any tip of putting them on without getting stabbed?

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## EagleSeven

> But how do I do that? Cant find any videos on youtube of anyone showing it.


??? What are you asking about ? 
If the Y-stepper-motor, then it mounts to case with 4 screws, thru standoffs.
Those mounting screws adjust belt-tension and can come loose, allowing motor position to rotate.
(The short belt at Y-stepper-motor does not have a tension-spring on it)




> And it did come with one tentioner on each y belt. tried to adjust and now cant get spring back on.
> Any tip of putting them on without getting stabbed?


One spring on each belt should be enough.
Don't want to Over-Stretch the belts !
Yes, getting them on is Not real easy.  :Wink:

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## bigo93

Aha! I think I might have figured out whats wrong. Or part of what's wrong.

The front Y axel may be moving slightly as it isnt fixed.
The back one seems fixed.

So question now is how do I tighten this up? 

This is axel pushed to the right
20151229_193824.jpg

And then axel pushed to the left
20151229_193837.jpg

As you can see a gap appears. between the spacer and gear.


edit: nevermind, I printed  washers with the axel pushed left and right, prints came out pretty much identical, still oval  :Frown: 

OK so read a thread which say it could be the firmware needing reflashing, so updated to 7.5, will update to sailfish later and then do a test print again

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## EagleSeven

I don't see a problem with the shafts or pulleys,
as long as the bearings, that fit in holes in case, are tight .
It's okay for shafts to flex a little at center of shafts ,
 as long as ends of shafts and bearings do Not move (loose) in case.

(pulleys should not spin on shafts though,
  shaft assemblies should turn in bearings at ends of shafts)

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## EagleSeven

> OK so read a thread which say it could be the firmware needing reflashing, so updated to 7.5, will update to sailfish later and then do a test print again


Okay, I've been wondering if I should upgrade firmware in our printer,
so I'll be very interested to hear how that works for you ??

 I don't think the firmware is causing the problem with loose prints, but I hope that fixes it !
(since we still have the old CTC Version-1, in our printer, and it does not have that problem)

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## bigo93

Are the gears and pulleys in your printer metal or plastic?

Mine all seem to be plastic....


Could this be the cause? Belt not being straight:

Extruder pushed to far right
20151230_153515.jpg

Extruder pushed to far left
20151230_153523.jpg

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## EagleSeven

> Are the gears and pulleys in your printer metal or plastic?
> 
> Mine all seem to be plastic....
> 
> Could this be the cause? Belt not being straight:


All the pulleys are metal in ours but I don't think them being plastic could cause the problem,
unless they are broken.
Slight sideways movement of pulleys would Not effect print quality that much, 
only slack or movement in Belt-travel directions will effect it like that.

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## EagleSeven

If you have not found the problem yet, I would next check voltage levels going to stepper-motors from motherboard.
I remember someone had a similar problem and they found that the voltage form MB was lower than needed at motors.
Some motor designs require higher voltage than others, and the builder company was using different types in their printers.
Some motherboards have voltage adjustments on them but some do not.
There are videos on internet showing how to adjust voltage, I think.

Note:  you could have a bad motor, motherboard or Power-supply also

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## bigo93

Ok so install sailfish 7.6, washers still coming out oval :/

Another issue is if I use RepG now to print, the extruder stops in the middle of the plate, and then when it starts to print, it prints off the plate, near the extruder's home position.
All setting are the same as when I was on original firmware.

Gonna try this bit next, http://reprage.com/post/46062359808/...our-3d-printer

See if calibrating the printer using this method helps.

         edit: It was slightly off on Y axis, instead of 70mm it moved an average of 66.44.
                 I can change the settings in makerware, but not sure if it is using them, as if I restart printer it goes to the old value again.

Also when printing precision pieces, should acceleration be turned off?

And also printed the first few layers of a calibration cube.
Along the Y axis it's not too bad, 
But along the X axis it's 2mm short.

How do I fix this? Could be the printer not using the new stepper value as well even though makerware is set to it.

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## TiredJuan

I had the print location problem with repg after the Sailfish update and the fix was adjusting the extruder offset (you can measure it, or look it up. Mine was 34mm IIRC) in the onboard settings.

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## bigo93

Figured out what was causing most of the issue with the circle printing.

I was looking at the wrong Y belts.
I was checking the tension of the horizontal Y belts.

But then after looking at a couple video on youtube, I realised I hadnt checked the vertical little belt on the Y stepper motor. (even though EagleSeven pointed that out last week :P )
And sure enough it was also slack.

Loosened it and pulled the motor down and tightened it back on.

And here's a test print after doing this. Had to print with a raft this time, probably need to clean the plate and clean the nozzle.
So a lot more circular than before, but still just slight off.
But at least much better off than before.

20160103_223810.jpg


And as expected, from one problem to another. Seems I cannot make ABS juice with the filament I have. the stuff doesnt dissolve and just sticks together to form a blob.
Reading other forums and it could be because it isnt ABS, but instead PVC, which is worse.

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## bigo93

Finally got some time to do some test prints again, and here they are!

20160116_211842.jpg

20160116_211932.jpg

I actually had to print these using the left extruder (still not figured out how to stop the extruder from going too far left when cancelling a build); right one still seems clogged even though I left it in pure acetone for at least 3 days!


As you can see the circle is almost perfect now, just a few imperfections which may now be down to the slicer and speed.
I got the bearing in only after hammering it in pretty hard. But I guess this piece is also designed to be like that to keep it in once in.
But as you can see after forcing it in, it's looks like a perfect fit!

So next question is how to loosen the bar so I slip these on? Note I have plastic pulleys on mine as well.

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## EagleSeven

As I've said , we do Not think those bearing-blocks are needed on shafts !
It's a waist of time, money and filament to print and install them.
(they can Cause more problems and fix nothing)

It appears that you still have Settings Wrong !
It is printing an Open weave pattern,
 the surface layers should Not have gaps between runs,
in outer layers of printed object, like that !
Should have a Solid, Filled look, when finished !
(run spacing needs to be about half what it is now)

Spacing may be set for 3mm filament instead of 1.7 size ??

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## bigo93

Not sure, will have to look it up later; it's on the makerware default standard settings.
Also on 30% infill.

Seems one of the wing nuts to level the bed has lost it's tread or something, wont change the level when turned.
Already ordered some new wing nuts from ebay.
Or might print some of these fancy looking knobs instead: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:312187

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## TiredJuan

I"m having this issue with the bed leveling, it wasn't the nuts in my case, but the armature that holds the bed. When tightening or loosening the wing nuts, the armature is flexing causing the bed to remain at the same position and making it impossible to level. I haven't fixed this issue myself, I'm currently looking for a fix (other than spending $150 on aluminum replacement arms). 
I don't know if any of this will help you, but it's worth checking.

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## EagleSeven

> I"m having this issue with the bed leveling, it wasn't the nuts in my case, but the armature that holds the bed. When tightening or loosening the wing nuts, the armature is flexing causing the bed to remain at the same position and making it impossible to level. I haven't fixed this issue myself, I'm currently looking for a fix (other than spending $150 on aluminum replacement arms). 
> I don't know if any of this will help you, but it's worth checking.


You can get metal stiffeners for much less than that !
here's first one I found in Search at eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-p...AAAOSwqu9U8FgB
(drilling holes in arms is required to install this type)
(I've read that they work very well)

You can also download Stiffeners object file from thingiverse.com and print them yourself.
That's what I did and they work Great !
There's another thread about that, with pictures, on this forum.
(Those have to be taped to original arms, unless you modify and add screws, but tape works)
(no need to disassemble bed to install them)
click pic for larger view:
CTC bed Stiffeners.jpg

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## TiredJuan

Good to know, thank you.

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## bigo93

Couldnt find a run spacing option in makerware, or anything similar to it.
Filament diameter was changed from 1.77mm makerware default, to 1.75

Just Roof Thickness. Anything with spacing is to do with rafts and supports.

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## EagleSeven

> Couldnt find a run spacing option in makerware, or anything similar to it.
> Filament diameter was changed from 1.77mm makerware default, to 1.75
> 
> Just Roof Thickness. Anything with spacing is to do with rafts and supports.


How do these settings compare to yours ? :

"numberOfShells": 3,
"infillShellSpacingMultiplier": 0.7,
    "insetDistanceMultiplier": 1.0,

"layerWidthMaximum": 0.4,
"layerWidthMinimum": 0.4,
    "layerWidthRatio": 1.48148,

"gridSpacingMultiplier": 0.99,
"solidFillOrientationOffset" : -45,
"solidFillOrientationInterval": 90,
"solidFillOrientationRange": 90,


"anchorWidth": 2.0,
"anchorExtrusionAmount": 5.0,
"anchorExtrusionSpeed": 2.0,

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## bigo93

lol, well I found these settings only by selecting Edit in Text Editor in Makerware.

As you can see most of them are identical, except there are no layerWidth options, just layerHeight

Here's the full list of settings when editing with a text editor.



```
{
   "version" : "3.8.0.231",
   "_bot" : "replicatordual",
   "_extruders" : [ 0 ],
   "_materials" : [ "abs", "abs" ],
   "description" : "",
   "infillDensity" : 0.1000000014901161,
   "layerHeight" : 0.2000000029802322,
   "maxSparseFillThickness" : 0.2000000029802322,
   "numberOfShells" : 2,
   "shellsLeakyConnections" : false,
   "insetDistanceMultiplier" : 1.0,
   "infillShellSpacingMultiplier" : 0.70,
   "adjacentFillLeakyConnections" : false,
   "adjacentFillLeakyDistanceRatio" : 0,
   "maxConnectionLength" : 10.0,
   "roofThickness" : 0.8000000119209290,
   "floorThickness" : 0.8000000119209290,
   "roofAnchorMargin" : 0.40,
   "coarseness" : 9.999999747378752e-005,
   "gridSpacingMultiplier" : 1.0,
   "doExternalSpurs" : true,
   "doInternalSpurs" : false,
   "minSpurWidth" : 0.120,
   "maxSpurWidth" : 0.50,
   "minSpurLength" : 0.340,
   "spurOverlap" : 0.0010,
   "extruderTemp0" : 230,
   "extruderTemp1" : 230,
   "platformTemp" : 110,
   "travelSpeedXY" : 150.0,
   "travelSpeedZ" : 23.0,
   "doRaft" : true,
   "raftModelSpacing" : 0.3499999940395355,
   "raftOutset" : 4.0,
   "raftExtraOffset" : 0.0,
   "raftBaseLayers" : 1,
   "raftBaseThickness" : 0.3000000119209290,
   "raftBaseWidth" : 2.50,
   "raftBaseDensity" : 0.6999999880790710,
   "raftBaseAngle" : 0.0,
   "raftBaseRunLength" : 15.0,
   "raftBaseRunGapRatio" : 0.8000000119209290,
   "minRaftBaseGap" : 0.0,
   "raftInterfaceLayers" : 1,
   "raftInterfaceThickness" : 0.2700000107288361,
   "raftInterfaceWidth" : 0.4000000059604645,
   "raftInterfaceDensity" : 0.3000000119209290,
   "raftInterfaceAngle" : 45.0,
   "raftSurfaceLayers" : 2,
   "raftSurfaceThickness" : 0.2000000029802322,
   "raftSurfaceAngle" : 0.0,
   "raftSurfaceShells" : 2,
   "raftSurfaceShellSpacingMultiplier" : 0.70,
   "raftAligned" : true,
   "doBreakawaySupport" : false,
   "supportAngle" : 68.0,
   "supportRoofModelSpacing" : 0.4000000059604645,
   "supportModelSpacing" : 0.4000000059604645,
   "supportExtraDistance" : 0.50,
   "supportDensity" : 0.2000000029802322,
   "supportExcessive" : false,
   "supportAligned" : true,
   "supportLeakyConnections" : true,
   "doSupport" : false,
   "defaultSupportMaterial" : 0,
   "doMixedSupport" : true,
   "defaultRaftMaterial" : 0,
   "doMixedRaft" : true,
   "purgeWallModelOffset" : 2.0,
   "purgeWallSpacing" : 1.0,
   "purgeWallWidth" : 0.50,
   "purgeWallBasePatternWidth" : 8.0,
   "purgeWallBaseFilamentWidth" : 2.0,
   "purgeWallBasePatternLength" : 10.0,
   "purgeWallPatternWidth" : 2.0,
   "purgeBucketSide" : 4.0,
   "purgeWallXLength" : 30.0,
   "doPurgeWall" : false,
   "bedZOffset" : 0.0,
   "minLayerHeight" : 0.010,
   "startPosition" : {
      "x" : -112,
      "y" : -73,
      "z" : 0
   },
   "startGcode" : "",
   "endGcode" : "",
   "doPrintProgress" : true,
   "minLayerDuration" : 5.0,
   "doExponentialDeceleration" : false,
   "exponentialDecelerationMinSpeed" : 0.0,
   "defaultExtruder" : 0,
   "extruderProfiles" : [
      {
         "feedDiameter" : 1.750,
      },
      {
         "feedDiameter" : 1.750,
      }
   ],
   "extrusionProfiles" : {
      "firstLayer" : {
         "feedrate" : 30.0,
         "temperature_disabled" : 230.0
      },
      "firstLayerRaft" : {
         "feedrate" : 50.0,
         "temperature_disabled" : 230.0
      },
      "insets" : {
         "feedrate" : 90.0,
         "temperature_disabled" : 230.0
      },
      "infill" : {
         "feedrate" : 90.0,
         "temperature_disabled" : 230.0
      },
      "outlines" : {
         "feedrate" : 40.0,
         "temperature_disabled" : 230.0
      },
      "raftBase" : {
         "feedrate" : 10.0,
         "temperature_disabled" : 230.0
      },
      "raft" : {
         "feedrate" : 90.0,
         "temperature_disabled" : 230.0
      },
      "bridges" : {
         "feedrate" : 40.0,
         "temperature_disabled" : 230.0
      }
   },
   "backlashZ" : 0.0,
   "doBacklashCompensation" : false,
   "backlashX" : 0.0,
   "backlashY" : 0.090,
   "backlashFeedback" : 0.90,
   "backlashEpsilon" : 0.050,
   "doDynamicSpeed" : false,
   "dynamicSpeedDetectionWindow" : 3.0,
   "dynamicSpeedCurvatureThreshold" : 15,
   "dynamicSpeedSlowdownRatio" : 0.30,
   "doDynamicSpeedGradually" : true,
   "dynamicSpeedTransitionWindow" : 6.0,
   "dynamicSpeedTransitionShape" : 0.40,
   "doDynamicSpeedOutermostShell" : true,
   "doDynamicSpeedInteriorShells" : false,
   "doSplitLongMoves" : true,
   "splitMinimumDistance" : 0.40,
   "doBridging" : true,
   "doSupportUnderBridges" : false,
   "bridgeAnchorWidth" : 0.80,
   "bridgeAnchorMinimumLength" : 0.80,
   "bridgeMaximumLength" : 80.0,
   "bridgeSpacingMultiplier" : 1.0,
   "minSpeedMultiplier" : 0.30,
   "sparseInfillPattern" : "hexagonal",
   "commentOpen" : ";",
   "commentClose" : "",
   "roofLayerCount_disabled" : 4,
   "floorLayerCount_disabled" : 4,
   "infillOrientationOffset" : 0,
   "infillOrientationInterval" : 90,
   "infillOrientationRange" : 90,
   "solidFillOrientationOffset" : -45,
   "solidFillOrientationInterval" : 90,
   "solidFillOrientationRange" : 90,
   "anchorWidth" : 2.0,
   "anchorExtrusionAmount" : 5.0,
   "anchorExtrusionSpeed" : 2.0,
   "jsonToolpathOutput" : false,
   "metadataOutput" : false,
   "configPath" : "",
   "doFixedShellStart" : true,
   "fixedShellStartDirection" : 215.0,
   "floorLayerCount_disabled" : 4,
   "layerHeightMaximum" : 0.270,
   "layerHeightMinimum" : 0.120,
   "roofLayerCount_disabled" : 4
}
```

----------


## EagleSeven

When you create a New Profile the 'Profile Editor' button will appear.
You Only want to edit New profiles, not the Originals.
Some commands may have been deleted from Original file.

(appears that many commands have been Moved from original place in list,
so there may be others Missing also ? )

These are definitely needed:

"layerWidthMaximum": 0.4,
 "layerWidthMinimum": 0.4,
    "layerWidthRatio": 1.48148,

(If you have an unchanged copy of that settings file somewhere, you should start-fresh with it)

It's okay to Move them in list, but None should be deleted.
I moved the ones I change the most to top of list.

Note: I changed the layerWidthRatio to 1.5 on ours and that worked great

----------


## bigo93

Nope, just uninstalled and reinstalled makerbot desktop, still no options for layerWidth anywhere.....
version is makerbot desktop beta v 3.8.1.231

Which is strange becuase when you search google, the makerbot website itself does list these as options, but then why are they not in the program???

Only thing I can do is add those settings in the text editor and hope it works.

----------


## EagleSeven

> Nope, just uninstalled and reinstalled makerbot desktop, still no options for layerWidth anywhere.....
> version is makerbot desktop beta v 3.8.1.231
> 
> Which is strange becuase when you search google, the makerbot website itself does list these as options, but then why are they not in the program???


I suggest you use Makerbot version 2.4 
It is the Only one I've found to be completely compatible with our CTC
(I tried both 3.6 and 3.7, both had problems)

Note: our printer came with version 2.4 on a SD card

----------


## EagleSeven

> Nope, just uninstalled and reinstalled makerbot desktop, still no options for layerWidth anywhere.....
>  version is makerbot desktop beta v 3.8.1.231
> 
>  Which is strange becuase when you search google, the makerbot website itself does list these as options, but then why are they not in the program???
> 
>  Only thing I can do is add those settings in the text editor and hope it works.


I suggest you use Makerbot version 2.4 
 It is the Only one I've found to be completely compatible with our CTC
(I tried both 3.6 and 3.7, both had problems)

Don't forget that Makerbot software was designed for Makerbot printers, Not CTC printers

 Note: our printer came with version 2.4 on a SD card

----------


## bigo93

Argh, I keep running from one problem to another :P

I cant level my bed anymore.
First when I press Level Build Plate, the nozzles now are hitting the build plate, which is bad.
Then when trying to level it, I have completely loosened one of the nuts and the paper is still running loosely between the nozzles and the plate.

This was not happening before, no idea what to do about it :/


edit

I think I figured it out, the screws holding the Z switch at the back were loose so I think the switch was being pushed up a little before being pushed to stop the motor.

Man I didnt think just setting up a 3D printer would be this much of a hassle.
I mean I had to put the temps to 255 min to get it to extrude, now just installed makerbot 2.4 and it seems fine at 230 degrees again. It doesnt make any sense :P

Installed makerbot 2.4, but this gives you less options from what I can see. Do you have to do the rest manually then?




Well here's another print I've done, using v2.4, still the weave at the top though, with the layerwidth set to the before given settings.

20160119_191634.jpg

And another, removed the rafting and as you can see, the base is even worse than the top!

20160119_205323.jpg20160119_210225.jpg

And this time you can see the slicer has taken some weird paths for the first couple of layers

----------


## EagleSeven

Sounds like it's still using the Old Profile (miracle.json file) used in 3.8 ?
Make sure to create a New profile, with New miracle.json file, when running 2.4.
 And make sure those old corrupted Profile files have been deleted.
And make sure all the missing commands are There, in that New miracle.json file.

----------


## bigo93

> If you find a way to actually use that extra space in Y direction, using Makerbot slicer, please let me know.


Seem Simlify3D allows you to create your own profiles.

I've downloaded a "trial" copy and you can get a FFF file from here: https://github.com/djecken/Printer-Profiles

You want the Rep1 and dual.
Dont rightclick the link and save as, as even though it saves it as a FFF file, the contents are written in html so it messes up when you import it.

Best thing to do copy the code, and then save it in a text editor then save the file as a .fff format.
Or download this one I made: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3N...ew?usp=sharing

Then when you click process, open up the advanced tab and in the G-code tab there are options for build voume and offsets. So changing these should hopefully allow you to use the extra space.


Also just printing with some PLA now, to get it stick I still used ABS juice, the print failed cos apparently there are problems with S3D and win10 with the print randomly pausing.

But when I removed the failed print, OMG, the base was perfectly smooth with a glass-like finish! It was unbelievable!

----------


## curious aardvark

you could just use a gluestick :-) 

Cheaper than acetone, and considerably more user friendly.

----------


## d43d

Have you printed a calibration cube yet with Simplify3d..  I've read people with our printer having wrong dimensions on prints...  About to try Simplify3d myself now...

----------


## bigo93

No I've not gone into fine calibration yet, my last cube was 19.7mm, which is close enough whilst I get other bits set up.

For example, I installed those spring arm extruders yesterday, tried to do a print today and the bloody thing will not extrude. It wont even feed the filament.

It goes in, it starts to extrude but then a second later it just stops.
I think it may be a tension issue, but the only way I can think to increase the tension would be a longer stiffer spring.

i did get a print to start by pulling the arm up myself, but then the stepper motor started clicking as if the nozzle was jammed, but it did extrude.
At least for a few minutes before it stopped again.

----------


## EagleSeven

> i did get a print to start by pulling the arm up myself, but then the stepper motor started clicking as if the nozzle was jammed, but it did extrude.
> At least for a few minutes before it stopped again.


Sounds like the motor does not have enough Torque ?
Maybe the Voltage from Mobo to motor is Too Low ?
Is voltage adjustable on your Mobo ?
( there are videos Online about adjusting that voltage )

----------


## bigo93

Doesnt look like it, cant see any potentiometers on the board to adjust.

----------


## EagleSeven

> Doesnt look like it, cant see any potentiometers on the board to adjust.


I think I would first check voltages Out to motors, at Mobo connectors,
and see if that one is Lower than other 'E' output, (if it is a dual extruder printer)
(voltage is normally a little lower to extruders motor, than to other stepper-motors, someone said in a video)

If not that, then you may want to connect a voltmeter and monitor the voltage level while it is printing,
to see if there is changes in voltage during print. (like a temp related problem at Mobo)

( Of course that may Not be the problem and it's something wrong at the extruder )  :Wink:

----------


## bigo93

It definitely the wires.

I swapped motors around and the right one started buzzes when it was connected to the left cables.
I swapped the stepper drivers around, still the same.
Swapped the cabled on the motherboard and the buzzing came from the right side this time.

So need a new cable....but ebay only has the motors cant find a cable on its own

----------

