# Specific 3D Printers, Scanners, & Hardware > FlashForge Forum >  The Simplify3d Tips and Information Thread

## curious aardvark

Okay there are a an increasing number of us makerbot clone users getting this software. Figured we could use a thread to pool settings, tips, work rounds etc. 

My first question - how do you stop it spitting a length of filament into the case before  a print ? 

It's obviously the equivalent of makerwares sticking a length to the bed - which i prefer as that seems to collect any bits.

So is it changeable at all ? 

So first interesting thing. 

I'm currently printing a peice with a bit of overhang that was warping a lot with makerware. Same p[art isn't warping at all with simplify. 
Only thing I can think of as the temp settings are the same is the type of infill. 
Honeycomb on mw and linear on s3d. 
I did knock a few mm off the length of the overhang - but that by itself wouldn't make the difference I'm currently seeing. 

Ah - forgot to set the layer to 0.3 - it's doing this one at 0.2 - that would probably make the difference.

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## Dargonfly

Yes, the plastic spitting is annoying. Because I have had cases where it curls upwards and becomes a clog in front of the nozzle (I didn't check it) and a few minutes into the print I had created just a big ball of PLA.

For some reason it doesn't do this when I'm printing in ABS. Will compare my ABS and PLA profiles when I get home.
But for now; I don't know how to turn this off. Probably in one of those advanced tabs,, but that's too advanced for me.

EDIT:
There's this in the Starting G-Code:



> G1 E25 F300 ; purge nozzle


Process Settings -> Scripts -> Starting G-Code

I assume you can just delete that line (going to test that now)

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## curious aardvark

Ah that would work - because the initial outline it prints clears the nozzle anyway. 

Well currently printing another plug at 0.3 and it didn't curl ! 

I can see that it's adding infill at the edger of each layer - which makerware doesn't do. I think that's what's keeping it from curling. 
So far I'm impressed :-)

And i remember someone replacing that purge code with the code makerware uses to draw the line on the edge of the bed. 
Think that was on the simplify3d forum.

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## Serena

Yes I hate that line it drops in the beginning! Sometimes it won't completely break off and it will drag a trail of filament into the print. I've been standing there ready for it and grabbing it by hand off the extruder before it goes over to the bed. But it never occurred to me to see about changing the code. That would be most helpful. And save me from possible burns. 

Other than that I've had good experience with it. If something needs supports you can't beat it. I had a piece where the design came with supports and when I removed them I tore half the wall off. So I removed the supports in blender and closed up the mesh (I'm still learning Blender so I won't tell you how stinkin long it look me to close that tiny hole!) then printed the piece using the automatically generated supports in S3d and they broke away clean like they'd never been there.  Huge difference.

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## jimc

hi guys, i have been using s3d every day for over a year now and try to help out on their forum best i can. i can answer many questions but since i dont have a makerbot or one of the clones i dont have much input on things directly related to that. same goes with dual extrusion. other than those things though i know the software really well. 

as already mentiond the whole starting sequence is done in the starting gcode section. the default sequence is SUPPOSED to purge the nozzle and use the edge of the bed to scrape the string off the nozzle. works well for me but i am using abs or pet all the time.

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## Geoff

I'm close to getting it running, once I do Im going to pull it apart and see how well it does, I have parts that need precise scaling and Makerware is always a little small.

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## indy3der

Currently I'm using Makerware, but a few things I'd like to be able to do are:
1. vary the infill at different points in the part (currently, I'm designing support into parts and then printing at a fairly high infill %)
a. Can Simplify3D vary the infill in an XY fashion, or only per layer (z-direction)?

2. With some recent experiments in part adhesion, can you vary the temperature profile for different layers (hotter bed temp to start, then lower after a few layers, or vice versa)

I realize this is about Simplify3D, but does Slic3r have this same capability?  Simplify3D seems to be a great program, but I'd prefer if I had some sort of 30 day free demo.  $140 is a bit steep to pay for something when you don't know if it will do what you want it to do.

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## Dargonfly

> Currently I'm using Makerware, but a few things I'd like to be able to do are:
> 1. vary the infill at different points in the part (currently, I'm designing support into parts and then printing at a fairly high infill %)
> a. Can Simplify3D vary the infill in an XY fashion, or only per layer (z-direction)?


You can vary the infill % (and all other settings) on a layer basis. The only way to make differences in X & Y direction would be to manually split the part in your 3D modeling software of choice.




> 2. With some recent experiments in part adhesion, can you vary the temperature profile for different layers (hotter bed temp to start, then lower after a few layers, or vice versa)


You can vary all temps per layer - which is really easy to do!
Just note that when you start at 230 degrees and then make a drop to 200 degrees that the temp will drop gradually (duh) and then dip below 200 (to probably 190) before it starts picking up the temp again. But small decrements (up to 3 degrees) create almost no dips at all in my experience.




> I realize this is about Simplify3D, but does Slic3r have this same capability?  Simplify3D seems to be a great program, but I'd prefer if I had some sort of 30 day free demo.  $140 is a bit steep to pay for something when you don't know if it will do what you want it to do.


Cannot comment on Slic3r, but if you have more questions about Simplify3D than you can ask them here!
(Damn, I feel like I should get paid by Simplify3D for advertising their product so much...)

EDIT: I meant 'cannot comment on Slic3r' (because I know nothing about that program), English is difficult~!

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## curious aardvark

lol yeah - it's not the easiest software to use. 
The idiot option has NO variables or things you can tweak and the advanced has everything. 
There really ought to be a happy mediium option.

But that said - it does look like a piece of software that's still evolving. It has a section for add in's - much like cura. 
The only one it comes with says 'convert image to 3d'. 
I did try importign an image and then nothing happened. 

I really need to get the manual on to my kindle for leisurely perusal. 

Also i had three things on the bed - made an x3g and it only printed 1. 
So how do you select multiple models for simultaneous printing ? 
I@ve tried all the obvious and standard selection things and so far haven't been able to select more than one thing at a time. 
(yeah i know, read the bloody manual lol)

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## indy3der

Dargonfly, thanks for the answers.

I guess Makerware is sufficient for now, but it seems every time I print something, I'm learning something new.  I'll continue to build parts with my own supports, but the custom temperature profiles is a nice feature.  I do like that while I'm in a "learning" stage, Makerware has limited options with the interface.

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## Dargonfly

> lol yeah - it's not the easiest software to use. 
> The idiot option has NO variables or things you can tweak and the advanced has everything. 
> There really ought to be a happy mediium option.
> 
> But that said - it does look like a piece of software that's still evolving. It has a section for add in's - much like cura. 
> The only one it comes with says 'convert image to 3d'. 
> I did try importign an image and then nothing happened. 
> 
> I really need to get the manual on to my kindle for leisurely perusal. 
> ...


Haha, yes, manuals can be useful sometimes  :Roll Eyes (Sarcastic): 

You can print multiple models by selecting them in the Process Settings:
Process Settings -> Select Models (button on bottom of process settings screen)

This way you can use different processes for different parts/models.

If you have multiple processes then it will prompt the following when you want to print:


And then you can either do sequential printing with clearance height (the height it will build 1 object before switch to the next) or continious printing (most used one due to dual extruders & bars being in the way when doing sequential printing)

Good luck!

EDIT: I was using multiple parts / processes here to do some testing with different variables for optimal printing. 
EDIT2: Also; always check the print in the 'Prepared Print' windows before exporting because what you see is what you get! If you only see one part; then you'll only get one part - so go back and change your settings and Prepare your Print again!  :Smile: 




> Dargonfly, thanks for the answers.
> 
> I guess Makerware is sufficient for now, but it seems every time I print something, I'm learning something new.  I'll continue to build parts with my own supports, but the custom temperature profiles is a nice feature.  I do like that while I'm in a "learning" stage, Makerware has limited options with the interface.


Makerware works perfect too! The only reason I switched to Simplify3D is for the custom supports & ability to add different processes (and doing layer-based settings.. and some other stuff ...  :Embarrassment: )
If you have any questions about Makerware then we can probably help you too, else try the Makerbot subforum on this board!

Good luck to you too!

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## curious aardvark

Ah - right, never seen those selection screens. You'd think when you've got more than one model on the bed it'd ask you if you wanted to print them all. 

So I have to apply a seperate process to each model ?

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## Dargonfly

You can go to the model selection screen of the Process Setting and press 'Select All' to select all models (and print all models with that single process).
It normally adds all models to the first process for me, unless I start adding more processes; then it of course needs to know what model to print with what process.

So... no, you don't need a separate process per model - you can print select whichever models you want and add them to whichever process you want.
It's not that difficult; you'll get used to it quick. Just make sure you always look what happens in the Preview mode - because what you see is what you get!
(I usually scroll through the model by selecting the 'END' scroll-thingy and dragging that quickly from begin to end to get a good idea of how it will be printed.)

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## stevekr2

> lol yeah - it's not the easiest software to use. 
> The idiot option has NO variables or things you can tweak and the advanced has everything. 
> There really ought to be a happy mediium option.
> 
> But that said - it does look like a piece of software that's still evolving. It has a section for add in's - much like cura. 
> The only one it comes with says 'convert image to 3d'. 
> I did try importign an image and then nothing happened. 
> 
> I really need to get the manual on to my kindle for leisurely perusal. 
> ...


In "advanced mode" after tweaking your preferences, you need to click "select models" bottom right corner then "select all" then ok.
Simplify3d will only apply settings to selected models

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## curious aardvark

cheers guys :-) 
I knew this thread was a good idea :-)

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## jimc

You would be amazed at how many options there are in s3d that are staring you right in the face but are skipped right over without noticing. The select models has to be the biggest one.

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## curious aardvark

Okay you're going to love thisd if you haven't already tried it. 

The add-in option has a thing called 'convert image to 3d'. 
And it does ! 

You have to save your picture - anything from a photo to a simple shape in a png or bmp file.   jpg/jpeg does not currently work. But any photo program from paint on up will save in png format. 
It then converts to a 3d stl file and re-imports the file for tweaking. Play with the z xis scaling to get it the height you want and print. Currently trying a koala head (windows sample pics) at 1mm height and 0.2 layer. 
Looked good in the preview. 

And this works with ANY picture. 

I'll be making dog head coasters later :-)

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## Serena

> Okay you're going to love thisd if you haven't already tried it. 
> 
> The add-in option has a thing called 'convert image to 3d'. 
> And it does ! 
> 
> You have to save your picture - anything from a photo to a simple shape in a png or bmp file.   jpg/jpeg does not currently work. But any photo program from paint on up will save in png format. 
> It then converts to a 3d stl file and re-imports the file for tweaking. Play with the z xis scaling to get it the height you want and print. Currently trying a koala head (windows sample pics) at 1mm height and 0.2 layer. 
> Looked good in the preview. 
> 
> ...


seriously?! I'm so going to try that!

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## 3DPBuser

So was it found that it could vary the infill by X-Y, if you have different models?

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## Dargonfly

> So was it found that it could vary the infill by X-Y, if you have different models?


Hi 3DPBuser, can you explain what you mean?

If you are asking if different infill patterns are possible then: yes and no.

The only infill pattern possible in Simplify3D is straight lines.. BUT you can choose at which angles these lines are placed and in which orders these angels come up.

Standard is -45 & 45 meaning you're getting a cross-pattern. But if you prefer to place these lines horizontal and vertical then that's possible to by using 0 & 180. OR you can go funky and do it 'hex' like by using 0 & 60 & -60.. so a lot of options depending on what you want, but a 'true' hex pattern like in Makerware is not available in this software.

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## curious aardvark

Okay I've discovered that you can drag models around with the mouse by holding down the Ctrl key and shift ctrl for all models. 
Major improvement. 

But can I: 
1) rotate the model like in makerware. Was thinking serena's 'chloe' model if printed standing up would not need infill without changing anything. 
2) if i generate 2 interlocking models for dual extrusion, how do I let s3d know, before I import them and it moves them both to the printbed ?

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## Dargonfly

> Okay I've discovered that you can drag models around with the mouse by holding down the Ctrl key and shift ctrl for all models. 
> Major improvement. 
> 
> But can I: 
> 1) rotate the model like in makerware. Was thinking serena's 'chloe' model if printed standing up would not need infill without changing anything. 
> 2) if i generate 2 interlocking models for dual extrusion, how do I let s3d know, before I import them and it moves them both to the printbed ?


If you double-click the model you can rotate, move, and scale.
If you import something and it always auto-centres them (maybe you can disable this in options?)
But if you have 2 interlocking pieces this is what I do:
New file:
- import both models
- double-click each model and change the X and Y positions to 0
- now you're good to go

Just a little note:
If you have files imported, then closed the S3D file and then reopened it again it doesn't remember the position and rotation correctly.
And as always; fiddle around with it. You'll get the hang of it quite easily.

Also; maybe there is a setting in the preferences to turn auto rotate & center off (that would be preferred for dual extrusion models)

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## Stigern

I was looking for a measurement tool last night, are there a way of knowing the size of the model?

Was trying to resize a bed leveling object, but I need to check how tall one part of the model is after I scaled it up.

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## Dargonfly

> I was looking for a measurement tool last night, are there a way of knowing the size of the model?
> 
> Was trying to resize a bed leveling object, but I need to check how tall one part of the model is after I scaled it up.


Double click the model (in S3D). There are values that display the total size in XYZ directions.

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## curious aardvark

Oh yeah - there's an option that plays a tune at the end of the print - sounded good on paper. But the soundchip on the ff isn't really up to it. The star wars theme tune nearly made my ears bleed :-)

Top tip: don't use it ! 
lol

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## Stigern

> Double click the model (in S3D). There are values that display the total size in XYZ directions.


Total size is ok, but was hoping they had a "ruler" tool or something that could measure between two points  :Smile:

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## Dargonfly

> Oh yeah - there's an option that plays a tune at the end of the print - sounded good on paper. But the soundchip on the ff isn't really up to it. The star wars theme tune nearly made my ears bleed :-)
> 
> Top tip: don't use it ! 
> lol


Best tip in this whole thread right there!
 :Big Grin:  hahaha, I wanted to try it, but was too afraid of the end result, now I am happy I didn't try it!





> Total size is ok, but was hoping they had a "ruler" tool or something that could measure between two points


Ah, I get what you mean! No, that is not in the software. You'd need to measure it in your CAD/modeling software and do some calculating I'm afraid!


Just remembered another tip:
BE CAREFUL WHEN USING CONCENTRIC EXTERNAL FILL PATTERN!
Only do this at very slow speeds, because it will shake your machine apart when it comes to the small diameter circles.


Does anybody know any sort of scripts which are interesting?
I wish there was an option to have more control over the shells: speed control per shell (not just outer shell), tool control (different material per shell)

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## curious aardvark

Okay - here's one that's puzzling me. 

The bed doesn't heat. I've set the temp up the same way I set up the left print head. 
bedtemps3d_596x600.jpg

Doesn't matter if i use usb or sd card - the bed does not heat. 

What am i doing wrong ?

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## Dargonfly

Did it work previously work S3D?

1) Check if you are using the right temperature identifier (I see you are using T2 HBP, but I am using T0 HBP)
2) Check if you didn't change anything weird in the Starting G-Code:



> ; **** Replicator 1 dual start.gcode ****M73 P0 ; enable build progress
> G162 X Y F3000 ; home XY maximum
> G161 Z F1200 ; home Z minimum
> G92 Z-5 ; set Z to -5
> G1 Z0 ; move Z to 0
> G161 Z F100 ; home Z slowly
> M132 X Y Z A B ; recall home offsets
> M135 T0 ; load right extruder offsets
> G1 X-120 Y-70 Z30 F9000 ; move to wait position off table
> ...


(Here you can also see it uses T0 as temperature identifier for the HBP.)
3) Check heated bed. Use other software (Makerware) - maybe it's broken? but I'm assuming that you accidentally clicked the wrong temperature identifier

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## curious aardvark

bed is fine 
to is the right head
t1 is the left head 

Hmm, looks like t0 is also the bed. 
So sensibly I ought to alter the code to use t2 as heated bed. 
I'll try that - thanks :-)

****

Got an evening to play with the printer ! 
Just refitted the right nozzle and currently doing the head calibrate thing. 
Going to try some dual colour printing - wish me luck :-)

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## Dargonfly

> bed is fine 
> to is the right head
> t1 is the left head 
> 
> Hmm, looks like t0 is also the bed. 
> So sensibly I ought to alter the code to use t2 as heated bed. 
> I'll try that - thanks :-)
> 
> ****
> ...


For me it's the same: T0 right head, T1 left head T0 heated bed (different T0 because of the radio button below it that says HBP)
Works perfectly (is default setting btw)

Good luck with the dual color prints! Looking forward to the results.

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## curious aardvark

right soprted the bed just changed gcode to use t2. That way each element has it's own code. 

Now dual colour. 
You need a nozzle wiper. 
Currently just making  abasic business card. To keep it thin and quickish to print. 

First effort (well 3rd or 4th - had to work out how to seperate files for different head printing) with s3d did work but looks crap. Lots of bits of filament stuck to the edges. 
I've got the 'wipe nozzle' boxes ticked - and can't find anything else that references cleaning nozzles during  a dual extruder print.

Currently printing the card with makerware to see what it should look like. 

But somewhere there must be a way to clean nozzles. 
Any ideas ?

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## Stigern

I see theres a FAN option on the Cooling tab in Simplify, is it so that the Flashforge supports a extra fan connected somewhere? I think I've read it somewhere but can't remember.

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## Serena

> right soprted the bed just changed gcode to use t2. That way each element has it's own code. 
> 
> Now dual colour. 
> You need a nozzle wiper. 
> Currently just making  abasic business card. To keep it thin and quickish to print. 
> 
> First effort (well 3rd or 4th - had to work out how to seperate files for different head printing) with s3d did work but looks crap. Lots of bits of filament stuck to the edges. 
> I've got the 'wipe nozzle' boxes ticked - and can't find anything else that references cleaning nozzles during  a dual extruder print.
> 
> ...



I had had this bookmarked for when I tried dual colors. There's some good info in this thread that may help:
http://www.forum.simplify3d.com/view...php?f=8&t=1266

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## Dargonfly

> right soprted the bed just changed gcode to use t2. That way each element has it's own code. 
> 
> Now dual colour. 
> You need a nozzle wiper. 
> Currently just making  abasic business card. To keep it thin and quickish to print. 
> 
> First effort (well 3rd or 4th - had to work out how to seperate files for different head printing) with s3d did work but looks crap. Lots of bits of filament stuck to the edges. 
> I've got the 'wipe nozzle' boxes ticked - and can't find anything else that references cleaning nozzles during  a dual extruder print.
> 
> ...


If the second color only starts at a certain layer and completely replaces the first color then you can pause the print at that moment, swap filament, use only one extruder.
If the second color only starts 50% in, but the first color is also used, then you can pause the print at that moment and then load the specific filament.
If both colors are used the first 50%, but afterwards only one color, then you can pause the print at that moment and then unload the specific filament.

Those are just some ideas that cost less then purge walls. If you upgrade your firmware to sailfish there is an option to 'Z pause' (pause at certain height in mm) to do just that.
(just a little heads up: I wasn't happy with some other things sailfish did and I didn't understand all of it, so it's for advanced users, decide for yourself if you're ready for that.)




> I see theres a FAN option on the Cooling tab in Simplify, is it so that the Flashforge supports a extra fan connected somewhere? I think I've read it somewhere but can't remember.


The Fan options refer to the extruder fans and allow you to set a speed (in percentages) per layer.
Currently there are some bugs with it and some printers only accept a 'ON' of 'OFF' state. Have to test and see what my Flashforge does.
Apparently you can create G-code commands for control of these fans, so perhaps you can hook up another fan and use those commands to control them? I cannot say this for sure, but within the standard settings there is no option for an additional fan control.




> I had had this bookmarked for when I tried dual colors. There's some good info in this thread that may help:
> http://www.forum.simplify3d.com/view...php?f=8&t=1266


Thanks for the link, very helpful for dual printing on the Flashforge!

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## curious aardvark

so basically for 2 colour prints i need to currently use makerware.
pretty much the conclusion i came to last night, to be fair the purge walls don't use much plastic. just adds a lot  more time per print.
Once i'd set the model up properly it did work really well for the business card.
i don't fancy the idea of slicing the dual colour chainmail bracelet with makerware. but can't see it printing properly with s3d either.
c'est la vie :-)

I've also noticed that the text is offset slightly from the voids. I think I'm going to ignore the calibration grid and just set both axis to 7 (currently both on 12 as that was the best match up)
And then adjust from there.

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## jimc

For now stick with mw or cura for 2 colors. The next s3d update will be highly focused on dual extrusion so you will see alot of s3d advancements when that comes out probably in a couple months.

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## Dargonfly

> For now stick with mw or cura for 2 colors. The next s3d update will be highly focused on dual extrusion so you will see alot of s3d advancements when that comes out probably in a couple months.


That sounds cool! Are you part of the S3D team? Or where are you getting this inside knowledge?

If the next update focuses on dual extrusion then I really hope that you can set different shells to different extruders! This will allow me to print the outer shell (or outer 2 shells) with expensive bronze material and the inside shells with some cheap material. But then the top most surface and bottom most surface should also be bronze..

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## curious aardvark

Also how do you get cura to talk to a flashforge ? Is there a gpx plugin like s3d uses ? 
Have to admit I haven't looked ta it for a while - as there was no point I couldn't use it. 
But could I import a file sliced with cura into s3d and use that ? 

Oh yes my right head is now lower than the left - aarrgghhh !
Both nozzles are screwed in to the same degree so it's got to be something else. 
Gonna have to deassemble the bloody thing to see if I can work out how to put the bloody thing back where it should be. 
Sigh, and things were going so well lol

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## jimc

sorry man i have no info for you on cura. i have never used it myself as well as a ff, mb or any of the clones. i just know that currently most people i know doing dual are using one of those 2 slicers. no i am not part of s3d. i have been using it for a long time though and i hook up with clayton and his team once a year at makerfair. we had a nice chat a few weeks ago about future improvements, ideas, etc. you will find s3d doesnt usually jump right in and be first to release a feature. they are usually a little late to the party.  when another slicer comes out with something or there is a big feature request they like to sit back, get feed back from users then figure out a way to improve upon current slicers and how to implement the feature requests in a way that really works or is better than whats currently available.

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## Serena

Posted this in the general info thread but in case you guys don't see it:

This software sounds really interesting- It's called "Make it Stand"and  it allows you to distribute the weight of a print to make it balance in a certain position. Check out the video to see:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_drZksLRx94

It's being beta tested and you can download it. I was going to, however, it requires some mathematics software (mosek which needed python knowledge to download I think- I couldn't figure it out) which was complicated to install and I don't have it in me to figure it out right now.  :Big Grin:  But thought maybe someone would like it. 

Download page:
http://igl.ethz.ch/projects/make-it-stand/

Sounds pretty cool for those who are more tech savvy than me.  :Smile:

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## curious aardvark

You know you can do something similiar with s3d. The example they use on the tutorial section is  a weeble gnome.

Printed with a dence base and hollow top. 

I guess if you're printing  a lot of artistic models that balance stuff would be really useful.

Dargonfly and geoff should go play with it :-)

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## curious aardvark

You can use the 'convert image to 3d' add-in to generate very interesting organic looking extruded text. 

Here's my test. Tried a bunch of settings and settle on  a gaussian index 0f 2.0 for the best overall result. Went with 0.5mm bed and 10mm overall height. 

So here's the text shown from the top and bottom

caextrudedside_800x248.jpg

Can you guess what it says ? 

caextrudedproper_800x112.jpg

Created from this png file:

curiousaardvark-text.png

It's weird, but surprisingly effective :-)

OH yeah - remember to save all files as .png NOT .jpg/jpeg

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## jimc

haha CA, thats cool. never tried that feature with text. here is a lithopane project i did back in may. i made a few of these for the kids to give as mothers day gifts. very cool because you can just easily swap out the photo with whatever you want. just take the pic, put it in s3d and print it out to size. the box has a simple ac adapter to plug into the wall with a switch on the back of the box powering a white led light.

IMG_2897.jpgIMG_2898.jpgIMG_3550.jpg

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## curious aardvark

what settings did you use for that ? 

I've tried colour photos with very little luck - so greyscale is the way to go then ?

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## Dargonfly

> what settings did you use for that ? 
> 
> I've tried colour photos with very little luck - so greyscale is the way to go then ?


I pulled some color images trough the program too, here's some steps I took to give it a better resolution & contrast:
- load the image in Photoshop (or GIMP, or any photo editing software of your choice) and up the contrast (if you use Photoshop CS5 and its contrast algorithm then you can easily MAX that contrast and get good results.)
- in S3D: when using the plugin to convert the image use settings that are a multiple of the actual settings that you want (for instance, multiple XYZ dimensions times 10 - don't increase the Guassion factor times 10 though...)
- let it convert & load the model, then scale it down times 10 (or whatever multiplication factor you've used)
- 100% infill, 1 shell (for sharper lines), and a layer height as small as possible (0.1[mm] or lower)


X & Y dimensions are up to yourself, but try the above mentioned trick to increase the .STL quality. (trick works for Z dimension too)
Try to make the base as thin as possible (to increase contrast, because the base has the same thickness everywhere) I used a base of 1[mm]
Keep in mind that your final 'color-depth' = Z-height-variation / layer height.
So, with a Z-height variation of 10[mm] and a layer height of 0.1[mm] you have a color depth of 100 .. which is somewhat similar to the color depth of 128 which is 'normally' used for digital black/white images.
Higher color depth = more contrast of course.

I've used this for some color photos of some friends of mine, they had this really bright picture (some sort of filter) with very little contrast, but after these steps I got a very good print from it  :Smile: 
Do note that you need to backlit these images!! Else they look creepy as hell ..

----------


## Dargonfly

> Posted this in the general info thread but in case you guys don't see it:
> 
> This software sounds really interesting- It's called "Make it Stand"and  it allows you to distribute the weight of a print to make it balance in a certain position. Check out the video to see:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_drZksLRx94
> 
> It's being beta tested and you can download it. I was going to, however, it requires some mathematics software (mosek which needed python knowledge to download I think- I couldn't figure it out) which was complicated to install and I don't have it in me to figure it out right now.  But thought maybe someone would like it. 
> 
> Download page:
> http://igl.ethz.ch/projects/make-it-stand/
> ...


That looks pretty fun! Will see if I can play around with that some day, thanks for sharing.

----------


## jimc

oh boy, settings..man that was back in may and i havent done it since so i dont really remember. i can dig it up though. i do know that it was a good professional quality color photo and i didnt do anything special to it. no photoshop or anything like that. it came out perfect. viewing from the smooth side will always look a little blurred because of it being diffused by the first couple layers. flip it around though and the detail really is pretty amazing. it was printed in white abs. let me look for those settings and ill get back to you.

----------


## jimc

oh wait a min i just open up the option in s3d and i think i kept my last used settings. depth scale is 2mm and platform height is .4mm gaussian factor was 1.0 and invert depth profile is checked. i think i printed it at .1mm layer height.

----------


## curious aardvark

cool. 

Just trying my first dual process print. Basically for the first 87mm it just needs 10% infill and then for the rest I've gone for 60% 
I've stopped the first one at 87mm and started the second one at 87 - not sure if this will work. It looked fine on the preview :-) 


Basically it's a handle for an electric sweeper. Only the end plug needs to be superstrong. 

Interesting to see how this works. Will save plastic and print time if it works.

I've also switched from abs to pla - so reduced the model size by 1% before slicing. There is no leeway on this model. It either clicks into the sweeper or it breaks.  And the difference is measured in  a few 100ths of  a mm.
I'll let you know what happens :-)

----------


## curious aardvark

just come across my first serious flaw in the s3d software. 

While the infill is quick to print and easy on the printer. It actually adds very little structural strength to the part. 
This is becasue it's like a horizontal spider web. Each layer is not connected to the layer above. 

weakinfill_800x596.jpg

Now with the honeycomb infill in makerware the layers form a coherent structure within the model that makes it incredibly strong. 
I've tried breaking the makerware versions of this part at this point and it can't be done with anything short of a lump hammer.  

Going to have to reprint a couple of handles in makerware - as the ones printed by s3d with same settings break at a point the makerware ones never have. 

So tip: don't print anything you need to have lateral strength in s3d.

And i'll go add this to the features you'd like to see thread at the s3d forum.

----------


## jimc

You need to uncheck the box for random infill placement. This lines up the infill walls making a strong structure inside the model

----------


## Geoff

This is why I am a fan of Pronterface + Slic3r now, it gives you control over all of that.

----------


## jimc

there is control over all that geoff. he just doesnt have the setting right. s3d is a firm believer in hiding things in plain sight. you can look at a settings page 100 times then suddenly wonder where that button came from you never noticed before

----------


## curious aardvark

he's right I didn't have the setting right :-) 

Did one with makerware and one with non-random infill. Both seem pretty strong. 

But the one with s3d. Was 0.3mm and 10% infill for the first 75mm and then 0.2mm and 60% infill for the top and the plug.  ie the strong bit starts just below where it broke. 
Try doing that with pronterface and slic3r and having it as a single x3g file :-)

----------


## 3DPBuser

Why random infill? Would it reduce warping on long parts?

----------


## curious aardvark

not  a clue - but I think it's the default setting. 

Given how little it improves strength I'm guessing it's just there for bridging.

Switching it off didn't slow things down at all.

----------


## Geoff

> not  a clue - but I think it's the default setting. 
> 
> Given how little it improves strength I'm guessing it's just there for bridging.
> 
> Switching it off didn't slow things down at all.


Random infill only uses it where required, it's nowhere near as strong.

Does S3D give you the options to combine infill? or combine infill only on certain layers etc? you should check out pronterface, I'm currently trying to get it working on the flashforge, it is 10x better than repg.

----------


## cmedrive

Geoff, I have a Flashforge, one of the originals, and have been using Makerware for the last year. I kept reading about all these settings everyone is adjusting and had no clue wtf they were talking about. I just downloaded pronterface and slc3r and had a chance to poke around a bit. I'm excited to mess around with it! I'll be interested to hear more about it from you but for now...I have to go to work, haha.

----------


## roykirk

> Random infill only uses it where required, it's nowhere near as strong.
> 
> Does S3D give you the options to combine infill? or combine infill only on certain layers etc? you should check out pronterface, I'm currently trying to get it working on the flashforge, it is 10x better than repg.


Not sure what you mean by "combine" infill?  S3D does give you the ability to change infill and resolution per layer or by different object on the print bed.  That's one of the things I appreciate the most about it.  I used to have to plan out my print jobs.  I'd accumulate all my .10 layer prints with heavy infill on one printer, the other I'd group all my .25 layer hollow models.  Now I can do whatever I want on the same bed.  Great time saver.

----------


## Geoff

> Try doing that with pronterface and slic3r and having it as a single x3g file :-)


Having a secondary program to slice is actually better I find, they can improve that and at the same time not balls up the printing side.

----------


## curious aardvark

lol - well s3d still does a lot of stuff that no other program does. 
And the prints are extremely good. Much better than makerware.

And you've forgotten that this thread is for flashforge users who can't use repetier or slic3r or cura or any of the other slicers out there. s3d works perfectly and gives a lot of options no other software does. Plus the improvements and developments are pretty quick. One advanatge of a team of paid professionals over people with other calls on their time.

----------


## curious aardvark

Latest learning curve bump. 

Been printing out mini-crossbows recently. Brilliant fun toys. 

But if you print them upside down lengthwise you need support. 
However if you stand them on end with the trigger section pointing skywards. They print perfectly without needing support.

But when i did this I got this. 
lowspeedxbow.jpg

You can see that the printspeed is stupidly slow. 

Turns out this was down to the settings in the cooling section. 
I turned them off so it doesn't slow down for sm,all areas - I've got active cooling and this isn't necessary for functional prints. 

speedupsmallprints.jpg


Result: 
xbow-fastprint.jpg

And not only did it print much faster but with the same minor squiggly bits on the trigger-handle-bit as the slow 'quality' print one. 

Here's the result of the above speed print.
speedprintedonendxbow_800x545.jpg


I'm getting about 30 feet with my new short target bolts :-)
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:521730

----------


## LakeDuck

Sorry to change streams but,  I have Simplify3d and had been having very good luck,
I switched over to ABS for a part I was printing to make it silver since I had some silver ABS and I could not get it to print a good raft or first layer,  tried other ABS and still have the same issues.
I am printing at 220 - 250 (Trying to get it to work),  taking speed from 3600 down to 2400,  still not much luck,  the raft elements dont appear to be adhering to each other and once the model starts to print the head knocks it off and starts a wild ball of filament

----------


## curious aardvark

what bed temp and what bed covering (kaptop, tape, hairspray etc) are you using ? 

Bear in mind that abs needs  a hot bed. I generally go 120

And has anyone had any problems maintaining temps on the right head with s3d ? 

I've got two heads the same size in now - but having a bastard of time getting it to work with the right head. And no luck at all in getting both to work together - despite doing the same things I did last time I tried both at once. 
It's  a good job I don't get frustrated :-)

----------


## LakeDuck

I am running 110 bed with blue tape,  in some (most)  areas the blue tape is sticking really well the first layer of the raft might be down and look beautiful and then the cross strands of the next layer will not adhere to the edges of the outline
And by the way I am trying ABS from the right nozzle,  I have not tried it in the left,  but will give it a shot as time permits.

----------


## curious aardvark

which actual machine do you have ? 
The standard flashforge creator pretty much never comes with a level bed. 
Which could be causing the problems. 

The pro - does. 
Difference is the pro has  7mm thick bed and the creator only 3 - which buckles the first time it's heated up. Turns out screwing it in place probaby wasn't the best idea as it doesn't allow any room for expansion and contraction with heating and cooling.

I'm currently heving some weird s3d issues with my right head. Try to narrow it down tonight. But ever since fitting a 0.5 m nozzle - s3d just won't print with just the right nozzle - or hold temps if using both together. Still works perfectly well on my left nozzle. 

Makerware works with both (although doesn't know righty is 0.5mm) - so I'm pretty sure it's a weird gcode issue of some kind. 

Anyway I'll play some more tonight.

----------


## LakeDuck

I have the Flashforge Creator Pro Duel,
I am beginning to think it is my filament,  printed a 18 hour print yesterday,  first 16 hours went well then it started to sputter and pull up material,  cleaning the nozzle today to see if it is clogged.

----------


## curious aardvark

definitely sounds like the filament.

----------


## Geoff

> I have the Flashforge Creator Pro Duel,
> I am beginning to think it is my filament,  printed a 18 hour print yesterday,  first 16 hours went well then it started to sputter and pull up material,  cleaning the nozzle today to see if it is clogged.


PLA can form little bulbous shapes through it if you leave it in a damp area (ABS seems to not care at all..) 

These bulbous shapes will jam the fillament as it gets fed, most of them will go through after a click or two, but most of them will just stop the filament feeding up, and the gear with shred whatever is inside to a nice powdery fluff.

----------


## Stigern

Any ideas why my overhangs gets looking like this:

20141116_005628.jpg

PLA, at 200C temp. Bed at 58C.

Medium quality with support.

Any ideas?

----------


## jfkansas

What are your support settings? Might be over extruding a little. What is your filament density? Did you measure the actual filament diameter and input that value in the process?

----------


## jimc

In addition to that on prints where you have overhang like that, turn your perimeters to inside first. This will give the filament something to hang onto. Also lower your layer height a little as well. Finally try bumping up your extrusion width just a touch. A .4 nozzle generally is at .48 automatically. Try bumping it up to maybe .55. A combo of these 3 will increase the angle you can print without suppport.

----------


## soofle616

I'm not yet using s3d but I have that exact problem when I try to print something round. I happened to be watching my last print and discovered the issue is warping. Basically under a certain diameter (or angle of overhang essentially), the part is vertical enough that everything works. Once you exceed that but don't add support (or not enough) the edges will curl upwards. Subsequent layers will continue to print with the nozzle pushing the part back down as it passes over. Eventually enough material is added that the top surface flattens out and further layers print fine but the ones below that were warping result in that mess that you got.  Jim's suggestions are good, you might also try a bit more support than you used that time around (if possible)

----------


## curious aardvark

the only way to improve overhang with makerware is to add active cooling. Also slow the print speed down.

S3d slices better and prints overhangs much much better than makerware. But active cooling is a must and very cheap and easy to do. 

http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...or-Creator-Pro

I'm using the mkI - above link is for the MkII 

I just ran a couple wires from the connector the onboard motherboard cooling fan is attached to. be aware it's 24 V - not 12. 
Pc fans are almost always 12 volt. You will need to buy a 24 volt 4cm fan. I think mine cost about £2.50
The wire I just stripped from an old pc. 
At some point I'll add switch, but at the moment it's just comes on with the printer and goes off when it's switched off.

Looking at your print - can't see why you needed support. Which bit was supported ?

here's the difference active cooling made to my prints from makerware:

sphereevolution_800x417.jpg

----------


## soofle616

> I just ran a couple wires from the connector the onboard motherboard cooling fan is attached to. be aware it's 24 V - not 12. 
> Pc fans are almost always 12 volt. You will need to buy a 24 volt 4cm fan. I think mine cost about £2.50
> The wire I just stripped from an old pc. 
> At some point I'll add switch, but at the moment it's just comes on with the printer and goes off when it's switched off.


It's printing now so if it works out well I'll post it for others to use but I made some changes to the filament guide tube spacer thing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:409297 to add a switch mounting flange. It should be done in a couple hours so I'll post up when it is and add the file to thingiverse if it's successful.


On a different subject, something has come up several times recently and I'm wondering if S3D will solve the issue. I print without rafts as much as I can. It gives me better bottom surface finishes, uses less material, saves time, and generally results in better prints overall. however, plenty of my designs require support that extends up from the bed. For functional reasons on a lot of my parts I can't reorient the parts to eliminate the supports or get them to attach to the part instead of the bed. The problem is that without a raft my supports end up popping off the bed probably 50% of the time. It's even worse when one support comes up but the others don't, the whole print is shot because of a small failure. Does S3D allow the use of a raft/brim/etc. ONLY for supports and not under the part itself to improve support-bed adhesion without ruining the bottom surface finish?

----------


## curious aardvark

well you can place the supports where you like and presumably the size you want (never used supports) And you can add brims. Not sure if you can put a raft under a support. 

But I would think the customisable support thing would definitely help.

----------


## FrankV

> The problem is that without a raft my supports end up popping off the bed probably 50% of the time. It's even worse when one support comes up but the others don't, the whole print is shot because of a small failure. Does S3D allow the use of a raft/brim/etc. ONLY for supports and not under the part itself to improve support-bed adhesion without ruining the bottom surface finish?


You could add your own brim into the design for the slicing program to use as a base for supports. Simplified OpenSCAD example:


```
//generate support platform
difference(){cylinder(h=0.2,r=20);
cylinder(h=0.2,r=5);
}
//generate overhanging object
cylinder(h=20,r1=2,r2=20);
```

brimexample1.jpg

----------


## jfkansas

> It's printing now so if it works out well I'll post it for others to use but I made some changes to the filament guide tube spacer thing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:409297 to add a switch mounting flange. It should be done in a couple hours so I'll post up when it is and add the file to thingiverse if it's successful.
> 
> 
> On a different subject, something has come up several times recently and I'm wondering if S3D will solve the issue. I print without rafts as much as I can. It gives me better bottom surface finishes, uses less material, saves time, and generally results in better prints overall. however, plenty of my designs require support that extends up from the bed. For functional reasons on a lot of my parts I can't reorient the parts to eliminate the supports or get them to attach to the part instead of the bed. The problem is that without a raft my supports end up popping off the bed probably 50% of the time. It's even worse when one support comes up but the others don't, the whole print is shot because of a small failure. Does S3D allow the use of a raft/brim/etc. ONLY for supports and not under the part itself to improve support-bed adhesion without ruining the bottom surface finish?


Try turning on "Extra Inflation Distance", set it to 4mm to start with. This should make the support structure 8mm bigger in diameter at the base.

----------


## soofle616

Cool, thanks all. I still haven't taken the plunge but I will at some point after the holidays have gone and spare cash is a reality again.

Frank, that's actually a really good idea in the interim, I think I may go with that. If nothing else I might make a couple "raft" models in various sizes just to keep on hand that I can insert into my slicer as needed.

JF, good tip. When i get the software I'll give that a shot and see what happens

----------


## jfkansas

You can also slip a "helper disk" under the support. It is just a round disc piece about 1-2mm high. I think Makerware has one in their library but you can make your own easily.

----------


## Starlord

I wonder if this is my problem.  I got a couple of small test prints done.  But since then all I get is extruder jams.  I read some where about baking the filament in the oven. Will have to see if I can find it again. 




> PLA can form little bulbous shapes through it if you leave it in a damp area (ABS seems to not care at all..) 
> 
> These bulbous shapes will jam the fillament as it gets fed, most of them will go through after a click or two, but most of them will just stop the filament feeding up, and the gear with shred whatever is inside to a nice powdery fluff.

----------


## jimc

guys, the new s3d update just got released first thing this morning. download it and try it out. lots of cool new features.

download here:
http://www.simplify3d.com/downloads/


here is a breakdown of the new features and there is a changelog at the bottom of the page.

http://www.simplify3d.com/simplify3d-v2-2-release/

----------


## LakeDuck

I just went to the link you provided and it is downloading the 2.1.2 version that I already have,  possibly other instructions?

----------


## ssayer

Yep, they must have found an issue and pulled it...

----------


## ssayer

It's back up for download

----------


## ssayer

Hah! Avast! detected a threat and deleted the 64 bit installer...

----------


## soofle616

Sounds like a nice update. Still haven't taken the plunge myself with all the negative comments about dual extrusion features or lack there of in previous versions. If someone has an opportunity to install and try out a dual extrusion and report back that would be awesome.

----------


## ssayer

Ok, just seemed to be an Avast thing. Support said the file was fine, and so just turn off Avast during the install. I did so, and it installed. I turned Avast back on and it checked things out, giving an all clear. (Once again, support response was F-A-S-T)!

----------


## ssayer

Two threads going on S3D, so I'm doing some double posting. Just because I posted the problem in both...

--------------------------------------------------

Ok, just seemed to be an Avast thing. Support said the file was fine,  and so just turn off Avast during the install. I did so, and it  installed. I turned Avast back on and it checked things out, giving an  all clear. (Once again, support response was F-A-S-T)!

----------


## indy3der

I do a lot of dual extrusion, I'll be ready to purchase and play with this weekend.  I'm happy to see this update finally come out.  I've held back due to the dual extrusion complaints.

----------


## lucidpsykosis

I just downloaded Simplify3D this morning, and wow  :Smile:   I'm using a FF Dreamer (if that has any bearing).  In the included manual it says: "*Begin Printing over USB* – if you are using a USB connection, you have the option to view the build sequence real-time on your monitor by selecting Live Preview Tracking. For additional information on USB communication, access the Machine Control Panel to view a broad range of information that is transmitted via USB."  My printer has USB, SD card and WiFi...not BT, which is the only option I can find in the Machine Control Panel.  Is there a setting that I'm missing to be able to use USB?

----------


## jimc

There is a big button "print from sd card". To print via usb, slice the print then you can print via usb or save to disk/sd card.

----------


## lucidpsykosis

I sorta felt stupid after I posted the question, because I found that big button.  When the printing box came up, it just sat there...no progress bar advancing, nothin.

----------


## DrUsual

> I sorta felt stupid after I posted the question, because I found that big button.  When the printing box came up, it just sat there...no progress bar advancing, nothin.


I've got it downloaded now, going to try printing with it tonight.  If they have print via USB for the Dreamer in this version, it's a brand new feature -- before you had to print via SD card.  Possible that USB isn't actually enabled yet for the Dreamer?

----------


## jimc

Maybe...i am not up on the specifics of the dreamer. Normally if its sitting after you click print it is waiting for the bed or hot end to come up to temp. Either that or there is a communication issue. Not for nothin but you really are better off printing over sd anyway.

----------


## DrUsual

> I sorta felt stupid after I posted the question, because I found that big button.  When the printing box came up, it just sat there...no progress bar advancing, nothin.


Have you had any luck printing with the Dreamer yet?  I used their autoconfigure and selected the Dreamer...definitely a change there, as the Dreamer didn't show up in their configuration list before.

However, when I go to the Process menu and want to choose a profile, Dreamer isn't one of the machines listed.

Also, in the Machine menu, I just get a "Port not found" error when I try to connect to the Dreamer.

So, tried printing to SD card...put the card in, go to print...it did wait for the bed to heat up, but started trying to print before the extruder heated.  Once the extruder hit printing temperature it started laying down PLA, but by that time it was well into the "build."

----------


## DrUsual

Got v2.2 to work with the Dreamer -- although it has the Dreamer in the Autoconfigure now, I still had to import a process profile for the Dreamer.  I'd contacted support last week and received a process profile in email.

Just learned the hard way that when printing from the SD card on the Dreamer, you can't remove the card mid-print.   Wasn't expecting this -- when I've sent prints to the Dreamer via wireless or USB, the entire print was loaded into the Dreamer's memory and I could turn the laptop completely off.  Apparently not the case when you're printing from SD.

----------


## ssayer

If it isn't in your profiles, you need to click on Help and then Reset All Settings. Just make sure you have any configurations you've already made that you like saved, because they'll be gone when you do the reset. When you restart it after that, it'll ask again for your printer, and it'll be in the Profiles.

----------


## DrUsual

> If it isn't in your profiles, you need to click on Help and then Reset All Settings. Just make sure you have any configurations you've already made that you like saved, because they'll be gone when you do the reset. When you restart it after that, it'll ask again for your printer, and it'll be in the Profiles.


Good to know, thanks.  I'm really liking Simplify even just from the standpoint of bugs in Flashprint -- Flashprint has a problem with not actually moving the model on the platform before printing, and it also fairly frequently forgets to heat the bed.  Kind of irritating...

----------


## ssayer

I posted this over in S3D's forums a couple of days ago, but I guess someone didn't want to read it, because it isn't there. I'm running Win8.1/64bit S3D, so though it probably is the same in all versions, maybe it isn't.

Try this:
Import a model (something irregular and "blocky" so that you're completely sure of orientation)
Double click the model
Try the Rotational Offsets, X, Y, and Z, one at a time moving each back to zero before trying the next just so that you see that all works as expected.
Now, move the Z-axis Rotation 90 deg and leave it there
and... NOW move X and Y

On my machine both X and Y now move in the same plane, so... If I move X 30 deg and Y -30 deg I end up with the part as though I'd never moved either.

OTOH, if I move Z 90 deg and then SAVE. When I double click the model X and Y move as they should.

Bug? Or is this just the way it is with S3D?

----------


## lucidpsykosis

> Have you had any luck printing with the Dreamer yet?  I used their autoconfigure and selected the Dreamer...definitely a change there, as the Dreamer didn't show up in their configuration list before.
> 
> However, when I go to the Process menu and want to choose a profile, Dreamer isn't one of the machines listed.
> 
> Also, in the Machine menu, I just get a "Port not found" error when I try to connect to the Dreamer.
> 
> So, tried printing to SD card...put the card in, go to print...it did wait for the bed to heat up, but started trying to print before the extruder heated.  Once the extruder hit printing temperature it started laying down PLA, but by that time it was well into the "build."


I emailed customer support about the USB, and this is what they sent me (basically says the USB feature isn't ready yet): 
_
"Thank you for contacting Simplify3D support. Thank you also for your offer to provide information about the FlashForge Dreamer, however we actually have a FlashForge Dreamer in our office that we are actively testing on and working to provide USB support with. The FlashForge Dreamer uses a different protocol than most of the printers on the market which is why it will require research and development to offer compatibility. However, as you mentioned SD card is fully compatible as well as the option to save .Gcode files and use FlashPrint to route them over a Wifi connection to your printer is also an option!" _ 

So, I guess we'll see what happens.

----------


## curious aardvark

have to give that a try - pretty sure all the rotation I've done have worked.

----------


## soofle616

Finally took the plunge, ugh I hate having to learn a new workflow especially when I've just become proficient with the previous package. My first print is in process right now. Makerware all but crashed trying to slice it, never did let it finish trying. S3d did it fairly quickly so props there. I'm a little dissapointed in the auto supports though. Yes I realize I can manually add supports and at least for this print it seems I will have to but there was a straight up horizontal overhang that S3d didn't bother to put anything under. I dunno if it thought the overhang wasn't long enough to need it or what but that part of the print has definitely failed. I'm letting the print finish because it's 3 identical parts printed in 3 different orientations so I can evaluate strength for each for my application. Other than that, things seem to be going fine for now. Just gotta get past the initial "how the hell do I do this"

----------


## Serena

> Finally took the plunge, ugh I hate having to learn a new workflow especially when I've just become proficient with the previous package. My first print is in process right now. Makerware all but crashed trying to slice it, never did let it finish trying. S3d did it fairly quickly so props there. I'm a little dissapointed in the auto supports though. Yes I realize I can manually add supports and at least for this print it seems I will have to but there was a straight up horizontal overhang that S3d didn't bother to put anything under. I dunno if it thought the overhang wasn't long enough to need it or what but that part of the print has definitely failed. I'm letting the print finish because it's 3 identical parts printed in 3 different orientations so I can evaluate strength for each for my application. Other than that, things seem to be going fine for now. Just gotta get past the initial "how the hell do I do this"


I usually adjust the angle on the auto support function to get the results I want. When you are looking at the model on the right side- the bottom tool button is for manual supports (looks like columns). Adjust the angle of the overhang and hit "apply based on overhang angle" tweak that until you see the results you want. It's quicker than doing them manually. Then I may tweak them if it's given me too many supports but it's a quick way to get it done.

----------


## jimc

ok, you wont have the issue with support if you understand how it all works. the support system in s3d is based on a grid. it looks like a piece of graph paper. the size of the squares are set by the "support pillar resolution". 2mm is a good size for an average print. what happens is when a support grid square becomes covered a certain percentage then that square is activated and a pillar is produced. if you have a fine detail part with an overhang that sticks out but doesnt cover enough of the grid to activate that square then that is when you have an issue with unsupported overhangs. you can correct this by lowering the resolution and turn on a setting called "extra inflation distance". 1mm seems to be a good middle of the road setting with this. inflation distance takes the generated support and expands it outward basically covering those areas that overhang but arent large enough to activate the pillar. hope this makes it understandable.

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## soofle616

> ok, you wont have the issue with support if you understand how it all works. the support system in s3d is based on a grid. it looks like a piece of graph paper. the size of the squares are set by the "support pillar resolution". 2mm is a good size for an average print. what happens is when a support grid square becomes covered a certain percentage then that square is activated and a pillar is produced. if you have a fine detail part with an overhang that sticks out but doesnt cover enough of the grid to activate that square then that is when you have an issue with unsupported overhangs. you can correct this by lowering the resolution and turn on a setting called "extra inflation distance". 1mm seems to be a good middle of the road setting with this. inflation distance takes the generated support and expands it outward basically covering those areas that overhang but arent large enough to activate the pillar. hope this makes it understandable.


That was helpful thanks. I did try serena's suggestion of adjusting the angle and combined that with reducing the pillar resolution and things got a bit better overall. Definitely much easier than placing manual pillars. I'm curious about your .2mm resolution though. If I try to set anything less than 1mm in that field as soon as I click somewhere else, hit enter, whatever, it goes back to 1mm so it seems I can't go lower than that. At 1mm I did get some good results. Is there somewhere else I should be looking to adjust the resolution lower though?

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## jimc

Haha actually that was the period from the previous sentence. Its actually 2mm. You can use 1mm. No need ti go lower. You need to turn on the i flation distance. This wont show in the pillars but you will see a difference in the preview.

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## soofle616

> Haha actually that was the period from the previous sentence. Its actually 2mm. You can use 1mm. No need ti go lower. You need to turn on the i flation distance. This wont show in the pillars but you will see a difference in the preview.


Lol, ok I see it now, that had me a bit confused. Thanks for clarifying.

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## soofle616

In other news, holy christ what a learning curve this software has. Sadly, it took a print to fail 3 hours into an 8 hour build for me to dig into the options enough to really understand what I can actually do with the package. I was quite literally composing an email to s3d support to request a refund so I could go back to makerware when I opted to start digging in. I haven't tried another print yet because my day will be over before the print finishes so I don't want to leave the thing running until I get back on monday.

The short version is that I have some overhangs that exist quite high up on the part (like 80mm or so). The supports were being built as long, single line wide walls. At some point the nozzle must have clipped the top edge of one of the supports because it broke off due to lack of lateral strength since none of the support walls were tied to each other as they are in makerware. I've since discovered that I can add angles to the support infill the same way I can for part infill. Added 45 degrees along with the standard 0 and now have lots of crosslinking which should make the supports much sturdier and allow me to make them less denser overall. We shall see what happens when I fire it back up tonight

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## jimc

the one thing about s3d is they believe the best place to hide something is right in front of you. you can look at the same settings page for a month and never notice that option that is right there. it can be tough moving from one piece of software to another. you have to learn everything about it and how everything interacts and works. it might be rough in the beginning but in the long run you are much better off. i consider myself lucky to never start off with another one of the open source slicers. all i have really known is s3d and after a year and a half i am to the point where i feel i know it well enough and how my printer works with it where i can very easily change settings and can tell exactly what will happen.

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## Geoff

> the one thing about s3d is they believe the best place to hide something is right in front of you. you can look at the same settings page for a month and never notice that option that is right there. it can be tough moving from one piece of software to another. you have to learn everything about it and how everything interacts and works. it might be rough in the beginning but in the long run you are much better off. i consider myself lucky to never start off with another one of the open source slicers. all i have really known is s3d and after a year and a half i am to the point where i feel i know it well enough and how my printer works with it where i can very easily change settings and can tell exactly what will happen.


It's for exactly that reason I have not purchased a legitimate copy of S3D lol  :Smile:  I_ started_ with open source slicers and all of the features you guys rave about with S3D are and have been done by many programs, but no one attempted to put them all into one (im sure we've used most of them...)   Let me liken it to a DVD/Home theatre combo. You get the Amp, speakers and DVD player in the kit - but if your DVD player dies, guess what? there is no buying or fixing that main head unit (or not as considerable service cost..) so then you are waiting on them to fix one part of your system which leaves the rest redundant (unless you go to extraordinary lengths....) 

So, I prefer to sell Amplifiers and DVD's seperate to customers to avoid that problem. So, like S3D, which is running several components ..   because they are trying to do it all - once one thing screws up and they focus on that, often other things are affected as a simple result of them being neglected and in the case of programming, those neglects can lead on to catastrophic failures later on.  Now, the developers might be genius's that never screw up ever, but I am yet to see that from a programmer in any field, bugs are bugs for a reason.

I think The reason I prefer open source is because you don't need to rely on the company to fix the problems or make improvements - as there is always a better programmer out there that has a better way of doing it - that is a fact of life. Now, this isn't always the case, replicatorG for example... no one's touched that code for ages.. and I would almost put money on the fact that S3D is built from a very large base of open source printing code.

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