# Specific 3D Printers, Scanners, & Hardware > RepRap Format Printer Forum >  Is there any way to print in Metal using a RepRap?

## RimReaping

I know most people talk about PLA and ABS when talking about 3D printing on the repraps.  However I also know that RepRap is open source.  Is there a way to print in metals?

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## nka

No really... Metals need a much more higher temperature to melt.

But, you could print a 3D model, make a mold with it and then cast metal in it (if you have the stuff to melt it).

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## RP Iron Man

Even then, the molten metal would completely melt the plastic mold, unless you were to use a low temp metal like tin...But then again, tin is so flimsy that it wouldn't really be worth using for structural parts, though it would make for a very interesting experiment  :Smile: 

Eric

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## old man emu

You could experiment with printing wax to make your shape, then encase the wax in potter's clay, forming access pipes to allow molten metal to enter. After the clay has dried, just pour in molten metal and the wax melts and the void is filled with metal. Very ancient way of making metal castings. But you only get one end product per mold.

If you liked, you could fire the clay with the wax in it before using the mold. The wax would be gone before you poured the metal, so you only need one pipe into the mold chamber.

OME

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## nka

> Even then, the molten metal would completely melt the plastic mold, unless you were to use a low temp metal like tin...But then again, tin is so flimsy that it wouldn't really be worth using for structural parts, though it would make for a very interesting experiment 
> 
> Eric


I mean, make a mold with the 3D Printed... not using the 3D Printed part as a mold!  :Smile:

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## Compro01

> Even then, the molten metal would completely melt the plastic mold, unless you were to use a low temp metal like tin...But then again, tin is so flimsy that it wouldn't really be worth using for structural parts, though it would make for a very interesting experiment 
> 
> Eric


You don't make the mold directly from the printing.  The printing replaces steps 1-6 in a lost wax process

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lost-wax_casting#Process

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## Tom

Lost PLA casting, some have experimented with using solder to print circuits and simple objects. The solder flows too freely when melted which makes it hard to print, combine that with the fact that the solder dissolves the brass nozzle not many have printed in metal or even tried.

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## RP Iron Man

> I mean, make a mold with the 3D Printed... not using the 3D Printed part as a mold!


Lol, sorry about that. I misunderstood  :Smile:

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## RP Iron Man

> Lost PLA casting, some have experimented with using solder to print circuits and simple objects. The solder flows too freely when melted which makes it hard to print, combine that with the fact that the solder dissolves the brass nozzle not many have printed in metal or even tried.


There are also those major problems. Metal flows too freely when melted. Also, there is the problem with oxidation, thermal expansion, etc... 

The only feasible "metal 3d printing" seems to be SLS (Selective Laser Sintering), but unfortunately there are a bunch of patents restricting that process...  :Frown: 

Eric

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## DrLuigi

> There are also those major problems. Metal flows too freely when melted. Also, there is the problem with oxidation, thermal expansion, etc... 
> 
> The only feasible "metal 3d printing" seems to be SLS (Selective Laser Sintering), but unfortunately there are a bunch of patents restricting that process... 
> 
> Eric


Well i've heard the patents for SLS would expire soon,
But still those machines will probably stay quiet expensive as they are now since well, even if you made it yourself i am guessing it would still be easily 5k :P
and i doubt the powders are cheap either.

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## Compro01

> Well i've heard the patents for SLS would expire soon


There are a hell of a lot of patents regarding SLS, most of which are active for quite a while yet.

I believe some patent on SLS from the University of Texas expires in 2014 or end of 2013 or sometime, but I can't seem to find anyone specifying *what exact patent* is being talked about.  Of the 3 patents U of T got in 1994, I believe they're talking about #5,296,062 "Multiple Material Systems For Selective Beam Sintering".

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## Kingoddball

Not what you are after - But cool; You can print in solder. That's metal! 3mm 0.4 +> extruder.

http://hackaday.com/2013/11/07/3d-pr...metal-at-home/

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## keithcl

presenting the mini metal maker!!!
It's build volume is small(6cm*6cm*6cm) but a great idea none the less.
it can be purchased assembled and with some clay included for $1000. Only 9 of those left on the campaign.
you need to print the object then fire it in a kiln at 600˚C-900˚C.
Looks really cool but I'll probably hold off on getting one. really want to make richraps 3dr first.

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## DanielNeander

http://reprap.org/wiki/MetalicaRap

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## RepRapVN

There are many folders and document on RepRap.org community site about SLS and metal printing. But I think because SLS partens will actually expire and be available as open source in 2014, they are not offical RepRaps for now. Please correct me if I am wrong.

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## BlackDragon

Hmmm... interesting challenge.  Since the RepRap is an Open Hardware platform, there is a feasablility to this idea.

You would have to select your metal ahead of time, and build the printer to the material.
- The metal should be easy to get in wire form (your filament).
- I'd replace the hobbed bolt, in the extruder, with rubbered feed wheels.
- You would probably want to built a ceramic hotend and nozzle.
- Heat control would be critical.  You want it just hot enough that the metal starts to ooze, not fully liquified.
- Ceramic print surface.

Lots of other considerations...  still, it would be interesting to see someone try this.

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## DR1983

I lost the link, however, a few months ago, there was a website selling kits for a laser for around 150 bucks. If you look at some of the sites such as hackaday, you should be able to find a hack for those laser pointer pens to make them start fires/cut items. From what I remember, the hack is from removing the laser diode from old dvd burners. I believe that the main issue is the amount of infrared light that they emit. The following is a link for a diy laser cutter... It should be possible to use this to sinter iron powder. http://hackaday.com/2013/12/20/diy-laser-cutter/ I do not see a reason why we cant use this for SLS. We may have to use a different lens perhaps to improve the output. 

In a few months, I plan on attempting this hack for the same reasons. If no one beats me to it, I plan on document my work. I cannot guarantee any of the patent availability.

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## BlackDragon

take lots of notes and pictures, please!   :Big Grin:

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## JacobysOne

Wow, $150 for the laser seems like a decent deal.  You would think more companies would make lasers for this.  I'm sure it is just a matter of time.

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## Compro01

> I do not see a reason why we cant use this for SLS.


I do.  I expect you're going to need about a thousand times more juice.  The laser in that thing is 300 milliwatts.  The lasers used in current metal SLS/DMLS/SLM printers are in the 300-400 Watt range.

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## nglasson

Here is a DIY metal 3D printer using a MIG welder.  http://www.3dprinterworld.com/articl...ed-mig-welders  The output is not exactly high res but there may be scope for refinement.  

I had seen the mini metal maker that uses metal clay from a syringe and relies on firing in a kiln after printing.  Parts shrink heaps with firing.  This thing is really only good for making jewellery.   I doubt it would scale economically or technically to normal reprap scale parts.

I have also read of someone making an ABS female mould and casting low melting temperature metal into it, then removing ABS with acetone.  Messy but do-able for decorative (but not particularly durable) metal parts.

I know that it isn't exactly DIY, but using your 3D printer to make PLA parts then having them turned into metal castings at an investment casting shop is a damn fine alternative to direct 3D metal printing.  I have recently used this path to make some replica parts in brass for a vintage car.  Finished parts come out exactly the same (but 2% smaller due to shrinkage) including detail of 3D printing surface finish.  You could make parts in any metal that your local casting shop handles - aluminium, bronze, brass, stainless steel, cast iron.  It won't replace normal processes for investment casting of parts in significant numbers, but for one or two off it is fantastic.

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