# Specific 3D Printers, Scanners, & Hardware > Other 3D Printers / Scanners / Hardware > German RepRap >  X400 DIY Special offer kit (buildup)

## Luchador

Hi,
I take the special offer from German Reprap today and I´ll write my buildup steps , fews and meanings here hope to get also imput from you.

Fist the package was a bit Bigger than I expected, it just fits in my car.
IMG_8050.jpg
and it was also not easy to carry

opening and removing all air pads the packaging looks not bad mostly was packed seperatly
IMG_8053.jpg

I put all out to take a look on all parts
IMG_8057.jpg

I think everyone has seen enough printer parts so I´ll not show you all single parts 
but 2 point were I find  great idea I´ll show you

IMG_8060.jpg
there are 2 good boxes with screws and ever place is labeled cool
after finishing can use it for other parts

what i found after was a surprise,
IMG_8068.jpg
the miiled aluminium kit
ther was no information that this update is in the set

Thats all for today now take a look on the online setup guide and will also take a look on the movie maybe i printout the description 

Hopefully can write tomorrow already more about the fist steps

br
Thomas

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## Luchador

Yesterday I finished the frame already ( pics follow later) today i printout the work description
244 pages but with finishing the frame youvare already on 40.

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## Luchador

So I finished checking and readjustemnt of the frame yesterday 

IMG_8086.jpgIMG_8088.jpgIMG_8089.jpg

I checked every adge in every direction readjust if neccessary and checked again all until all point were in the right angel and flat to the other profiles.
(The Block is a grinded part with perfect 90° angles and absolut flat a realy helpful tool)

I also insert the spindel holder and spindels
 holders plate and the plate themself
IMG_8092.jpgIMG_8100.jpg

2 Point I need to double check today

One screw I destroy ,
Pulley of the spindle so I need to remove it again to change the screw.

and one of the holders plate (sinter parts) has a too small hole so I need to drill it to right size today , ( I propose to check all holes of the sinter parts before sometimes they are a bit to small)

if this is finished I can fix the plate and start the first fine adjustment of the plate position ( make it even to the frame)

so more hopeflully this evening

so far around 5 hours work include preparation not difficult  yet,
but you need to work realy correct (special on the frame) to get all in the right angle a third hand would be good (its possible alone but need more time)

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## Luchador

HI,

Not much news I changed the defect screw drilled the to small hole now the plate fitt in the frame.

I also started with the last holder for the motors,

IMG_8106.jpgIMG_8107.jpg

todays plan 

finish  fixing and adjusting of the plate,

mounting the holders and starting the X/Y table/guide.

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## Luchador

soplate is fixed and adjusted , X/Y table are installed

IMG_8164.jpg

Im not fully happy with the pulley / belt tension adjustment yet here I need to check how to improve this weekend,
but the first cablechain is intsalled and the cable trees are great all are marked so easy to find the right cables.

I also started the control box yesterday, only the fan fance let me wonder on the beginning because its for M3 screws but you need to use M4 ( simple need to screw it also trough the fence )

IMG_8159.jpgIMG_8161.jpg

so plan for today finishing the control box and maybe go on with the cabeling.
Tomorow Heatbed and Finishing Hotend.

br
Thomas

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## Luchador

so I nearly finished the cabeling, will make a few pictures later and share it.

br
Thomas

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## Luchador

first sorry for so long no news but I was a bit busy so no time to go on, additional I have a small  issu with the transfer of the pic to the computer 

I hope to solve the issue with the pics tommorow han can give you a lot of new views.

What I did today was uploard the firmware and check the first points

so far thermistor headbed and the heatbed themselve are working 

with my ground adjustement of the Polols Z is working good so far only a seldom sound is hearable but this could be also bec the spindles are dry at the moment this will check later.

after readjust my Y belts this is also working.

X was making trouble but after a while ( sitting in front and not understanding anything anymore ) i get it , stupid issue from my side I connected the motors like i do usual but here the motors need to run in opposide directions ,
after the connector was turned the X is now also moving.

I´ll sit don now I try to finish the Hotend (thermistor and heater not connected yet)

Will update tomorrow plan would be to finish all and start calibration.

br
Thomas

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## Luchador

so not much news but i solved my picture issue

I closed the cabelings and connected the heater and thermistor of the hotend for testing the nozzle I´ll install after calibration of the extruder.

So plan for the day is to check all functions again ( I changed the pololu voltage a bit) and start calibration.

After installing the nozzle and maybe heat up the first time with Filament.

IMG_8201.jpgIMG_8205.jpg

br 
thomas

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## Luchador

so a bit less time at the moment but I more and more on a good feeling to print on the weekend the first time 
(if anyone has a great idea what to print first let me know)

at the moment still need to calibrate and also would like to readjust the Pololus again a bit, reason is simple Z and Y feels good after a wile moving around Motor still cold but X get already temperature so I´ll try to find a level without missing steps but cold as possible motors.
Finaly I´ll share "my" adjsutments (at the moment between 250 and 350mV)

best regards
Thomas

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## Luchador

So a few hours together with an additional set of hands and eyes (ok and 2 bottles of wine),

so we readjust the belts and checked the X Motor again ( alone I think never check him again bec checked befor mounting)hr was running much to strong.

So changed motor readjust all belts and all pololus (Voltage around 250-260mV)

Adjust the Printbed and start first print.

Result not bad for the first print Block 20x20mm result 20,1x20,15mm but with a lot of missing steps in Y ( My Mistake Y has 2 motors so need to use a bit more Power)

I also cuttet the cover a bit so I can remove it everytime.
IMG_8273.jpg
So today finaly adjust Y Pololu and change the firmware 

In the Firmware I ´ll change the max width for X looks like here is in the single Extruder Version also the value for the Dual inside so can not use the full 400mm range

IMG_8272.jpg

So think tosay I can clean the cabeling a bit than will close the Printer.

Next steps are already in Planing I get a few Profiles to Extend the Frame after think will close the sides with plates.

Best regards
Thomas

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## Luchador

So,

I already added some profile on the top, the ide is to close the sides later.

I already printed a few parts direkt on the ceramic plate its possible but the plate need to be realy clean if not it can happen that it will lift up from the plate.
bec of my experiance with buildtak i will add a makrolon plate with an buildtak foil.

IMG_8305.jpgIMG_8282.jpgIMG_8291.jpg


My Resümee for this Printer so far, A good Printer the Ground Assambly is easy but need be be made realy good ( quick quick is the wrong way)
The final adjustment is possible alone but with 2 people simple much easier.

The Printing Results so far good (much better than my usual results) 

The Printer brings a los of possibilities bec of the profiles and with the milled table its easy to add anything you want ( my next project is a ring fan and than an extruder Holder to change the extruder and also to use different ones)

For this price this printing space in that quality  For me it was the right decision.


best regards 
Thomas

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## Luchador

By the way if someone has a great model for testing let me know so far I have time I´ll try

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## Luchador

So small update what I did so far and what I plan

 so I added a 2mm makrolon plate with an PET foil what was a bad idea the 2mm plate is too thin (its working in my other printer but here the printbed is too big) so with heating up the bed the plate produce a hill, so I searching for something else who is flat a bit flexible ( and not breaking) what i can put and clamp on the printbed to print on it and after finishing remove and add a new one so far the other one is not cooled down, important is that this plate will stay flat not creating a hill.

 if anyone has an idea please let me know.

 what I also work on are 2 Points
 one is an fan holder for the cooling of the Filament ( I get a great tip were to mount so I can start a konstruktion)
 and the second plan is to close the sides but on a way I allways can move the transparent plates out without screws I already created a fist Version but I still need to print it out check if it hold and than wait for the right Filament ( want it in blue).

 if I have anything to show I´ll share a few pictures.

 br
 Thomas

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## Luchador

So Sorry for so long no updates ( a few busy days so no time)

I was only working on the CAS files for side walls holders and a fan duct for the Single Version. the side wall holder I think are Ok a first Prototype was looking good (pic will follow)
idea is that the walls are easily mounted and also removable without tools.

the faduct is a different story I absolutely not happy with the form nervertheless I´ll try to finish the actual version and print it out for a test.

br
Thomas

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## Luchador

So Sorry for no update so long,

I just get my Buldtak foil so I prepared the printer yesterday 

now the Buildtack is on a 2mm Markrolon Plate fixed only with tape bec for the mom Printing PLA I shouldnt need the Heatbed with this foil, later I hope to find a bendable plate not too big who not start reforming after starting the headbed.

Plan for today make pictures and adjust endstop for Z than start the first bigger prints.

br
Thomas

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## Luchador

Sorry at the moment to much work not much time for the printer

the buildtak is now on the ceramik plate and I printed yesterday a 8h print small but High.

he walls are realy good but I need to fine calibrate my Extruder too much material what is perfect to see on a issue over the full lengh of the print.
But for the first print Im happy with it.

I already made pictures will upload the pics later.
br
Thomas

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## Luchador

First Sorry for so long no News, I still Full with work (in 2 Countries so often no access to my printers)

The Housing is still not finished, most parts already printed a few also already mounted but I didnt found time to finish it yet.

But I finished a othe rpoint bec 2 prints are stoped bec of a blocked filament ( the roll was on the flor 1.5m down) so I finished first my Filament Holder for the X400. ( If someone intrested in the files let me know)

IMG_9044.jpgIMG_9047.jpg

BR 
Thomas

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## Luchador

After the roll Holder it was silent for a wile sorry , too much work but I still thinking on next steps

my actual one is added a raspberry PI 2 with Octoprint a great tool special to see the print with the webcam is perfect for me.
But the next point comes from the Octopi a Display with touch bec there is no PC in the Printer Room at the mom so I already bought a 7" Touch displayx and I hope I can get it working .

I´ll update ater I get the parts.

br
Thomas

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## Dontknow

Dear Luchador,

I have read all the article (even old one) and am very happy for you and your printer... 

WELL I am too owner of the same printer bought on early Oct 2014 and still up today the printer is NOT functioning...

Among some TOO MANY problems with the manual NOT being fully translated.
Parts missing. Ok Not a serious problem but still the frustration is there.
Many mistakes in the drawings like the Vcc is ALWAYS (+) and in the opto terminals are differently... If memory serves right are yellow... Of course the drawings have this attested... Still not great for the norms ...

I had some wrong photos vs wrong drawing... I had ti presume a lot of what goes where...
And the wires... Ok... Here is another one... The EX0 is the EX1... Ok even this is not difficult to realize... BUT it still therr adding to the general page...

All parts needs 3 or 4 or more spacers (ring spacers) in order the bearings NOT touch with the bearing bushing... Or the Extruder to have 3 or 4 spacers .... Well THIS IS NOT RIGHT IN DESIGNING ... Their dimensioning is SITTY CRAP... PAKISTANIAN MADE...
They could use correct height cut pipes in order to have this space and I would wait for the next generation of the crappy X400 GERMANREPRAP to have make the parts with correct dimensioning and just use only one spacer...

Now I got a RAMPS 1.4.2 as all the X400 GERMANREPRAP CRAP printers DO... Well mine had a baby fuse 5A fail.. and had to search ALLL AND EVERYTHING FROM THE BEGINNING TWICE...

The Z Axis... HAHHAHAHA... The triangle shity idea movement... NEVER WORKED... In fact I did even changed the NEMA 17Motore with a NEMA 23 motor... of 14Kgrs/cm if memory serves well directly from POLOLOU... Still the Z axis refuses to function. Only if help it with hand... A very slight touch but still needed...

I tuned a million times the DRIVERS... OOOOOHHH!!! I even changed drivers twice as I though the Drivers might not deliver enough power to move the NEMA17 or later NEMA23... Well guess again... It did not move even with the DRV TEXAS drivers capable of 2A withouth fan...

I did also cut to reduce the weight of the STEEL frame holding the heating bed... I cut a rectangle hole about -40% of weight... Still holding the rigidity of the construction.
Still Z axis NOT MOVING...

I then turned to the leveling of the ball screws.... 

Still forgot to say.. the plastic printed part from GERMANREPRAP CRAP that holds the roll bearing and the NUT so the whole axis move from bottom to top and vice versa...

well It was not tight enough as a result the NUT to have a short dislocation... Also the centers of this plastic with the STEEL BED (the one holds the heating bed...) WHERE NOT CENTERED but had a +/- 2mm difference.... So I took a Φ20mm drill and made ont whole bigger... I cut the plastic so it could move freely to the new position...

I tried all and still the Z axis refused to work....It is so tight everything and the centers so awfull that I need to remake the whole system...

Now do I have to say I had all these issues and tried to reach the m@thafack@Rs but still their policy send yous the ticket... HAHAHAHa... anyway I had one ticket and asked them some questions... As always the answers are half... So I had to reopen another ticket and wait for another 5 or 6 days...

Finaly I said F@CK THEM ... I will do it my self.. I ordered some NEW RAMPS... I did a Parallel connection for the Y axis as you know the sitty crap germanreprap has 2 motors for Y axis... and only crib for Z axis...

Now I have tear apart all the Z axis and bought some roll bearings for put on top of the ball screws so I can have a decent center... 
After that I will put the other motor the NEMA17 I have as spare under one of the ball screws as  result to have a NEMA23 and NEMA17 power to lift the Z axis...

AFTER ALL. I WOULD NOT SUGGEST THIS COMPANY FOR NO REASON EVEN THEY WERE THE LAST COMPANY ON EARTH...

IT IS THE WORST SERVICE... CRAP MACHINE AND WAYYYY OVERRATED 

STAY AWAY FROM THEM!!!! Just my 2 cents

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## Luchador

Interesting that you are the only one who still try to setup him,
I wondering that you ( like you write) try so many things but never get in touch with the original grr forum.

Also wondering that hundrets of that set were sold and from the most they never hered anything so sound like all running

I will not say the printer is perfekt but for a Printer who is already more than 10 years old he is still useable today ( there are only a few update over the years like dd3 / alluminium parts ..)

you buy a DIY but not get it working , but reworked by yourself a lot like it looks like less knowing about it ( sorry why should someone try to use a nema 23 for Z if its already soo much force necessary to move it)

the english manual could be better sure like all buildup desriptions , but also the english one had all information to build it up so long enough ground knowings are exiting.

that your tickets not answared like you want I wondering the only point i would belive someone was not able to build it up and want to get every single step done by them and after destroying parts to get them recovered

and if there was someone wrong they normaly try to do her best ( one case they send parts to a 500€ printer to the USA bec a board was defect the cost were extream but they did .

what show me that your knowledge for 3d printers is less is also:

You write about the washers , sure can be all special parts, but this parts cost a lot and no one want to pay that at that time

te x400 was for that time a great big printer for a great price 

you can also buy a compleate one for much more ( the lot work for assambly need to be paid its not a serias production)

so my proposal sell it for an extream cheap price ( for me it sound you destroy a lot of the parts) or give him to a few student for learning

Compare to other companies GRR have a support tieckt system ( the most dont have or ever answare) and the products working ( so long with the right skill mounted or ready bought)

I have an X400 an NEO and Protos , our Makerlab has an NEo an X350 2 Ultis and a few other the only ones who are save that working a normaly the GRR ones 

so far to that

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## Dontknow

Interesting that you are the only one who still try to setup him,
 I wondering that you ( like you write) try so many things but never get in touch with the original grr forum.

 Also wondering that hundrets of that set were sold and from the most they never hered anything so sound like all running

ANSWER: 

* Am I the only , who still try to make it work? Or I am the only one who spoke? Or how can you be sure there are no others with identical problems?*
*How can you be sure that in other forums have not face any similar problems?
*
*LASTLY do you imply in one or other way that am a stupid or just lie?*

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## Dontknow

*Keeping on Please read my previous message carefully as I said: I tried twice maybe three times only to get a ticket or even a 0.99EURO/Minute charging over the phone... Just to mention the problems I am facing ... Problems I did not create...*
*Maybe there are some more than you think and JUST did not have the time with the ghost chasing... And I mean that I had to contact so many times take a ticket, without a straight answer, THEN waiting another week to get another nosense answer,
Well you see I bought the printer because it had ALUMINUM BLOCKS and thick bars ... And the machine was meant to print REAL PROTOTYPES.... NOT THE STARWARS FIGURES. Not That I do not like STARWARS but I wanted the CRAP PRINTER to PRINT some descent work and being able to keep on with my creations and DEADLINES!!!!*

I will not say the printer is perfekt but for a Printer who is already more than 10 years old he is still useable today ( there are only a few update over the years like dd3 / alluminium parts ..)

ANSWER:
*The PRINTER IS WAAAAAYYYYYYYYYY LONG TO JUST THINK IS WORKING................ NOT PERFECT HAHAHA...*

you buy a DIY but not get it working , but reworked by yourself a lot like it looks like less knowing about it ( sorry why should someone try to use a nema 23 for Z if its already soo much force necessary to move it)

ANSWER:
*OK!!!/// Now we are talking THANK YOU FOR THE QUESTION...
First the Steel plate is too heavy for the NEMA17 to move . Imagine when you have a part of 400x400x350 (mm) as the nominal printing capacity* * HAHAHAHA...

Then the 3 Bolts for moving the Z-AXIS are not balanced since the movement comes from below and when the heavy steel plate is on the top the bolts just loose their balance.. You can see with eye ...not instruments that bolts-axis are way out of linearity . THUS INCREASE THE TORQUE NEEDED.
THIS IS NOT MY FAULT IN ASSEMBLY...

Then the POM material is WRONG MACHINED POM (POM=Plastic black material for the Roll bearings... The base of roll bearings) for the rest who might read this.*

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## Dontknow

the english manual could be better sure like all buildup desriptions ,but also the english one had all information to build it up so long enoughground knowings are exiting.

ANSWER:
*OK!!!.. The English Manual is not perfect... HAHAHHAHAH... The englishmanual is not English is German manual with some English and in fact in themost critical moments of assembly ... GUESS WAHT you read GERMAN... Thanks GODto GOOLGE TRANSLATION and CUSTOMER'S PATIENT TO GO BACK AND FORTH THE SCREENSFROM TRANSLATION TO THE MANUAL...
*
that your tickets not answared like you want I wondering the only point i would belive someone was not able to build it up and want to get every single step done by them and after destroying parts to get them recoveredANSWER:*
My TICKETS DID ANSWERED... BUT ANSWERS WERE IN GENERAL NOT TO THE SPECIFIC PROBLEM... Like to advise me to check the Volts on the DRIVERS... like saying.
I never asked for any parts NOT had brocken parts in anyways... Except a blown fuse of 5A that came with the RAMPS as mentioned in previous message... Ok I do not know about you but I would ask for a fuse replacement HAHAHAHAHA... I just gave 0.5Euro and bought one ..

AND NO I did not want to give more guidance or anything you claim... You see I am a BSc Mechanical Engineering and have my ways to solve problems... The think is that I paid A LOT OF MONEY TO TROUBLESHOOT THE CRAPPY DESIGN PRINTER.

*

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## Dontknow

and if there was someone wrong they normaly try to do her best ( onecase they send parts to a 500€ printer to the USA bec a board was defect thecost were extream but they did .
*
ANSWER:
I do not know if they sent any parts... If so good to them ... THIS IS THE POINT I REALIZE YOU ARE NOT JUST AN ENTHOUSIAST FOR 3D PRINTERS... I REALIZE YOU ARE WORKING THERE AND HAVE THIS FORUMS AS ANOTHER SOURCE OF MARKETING AND PROMOTING... Is that real? And how do you know about the part sent to a customer in US??

*what show me that your knowledge for 3d printers is less is also*:
*
ANSWER:*
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAH WRONG AGAIN... I am owner of 6 SIX 3D PRINTERS and within amonth I am waiting for 1200mm x 1200mm x 850mm(H) costing some big money...

*

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## Dontknow

You write about the washers , sure can be all special parts, but this
parts cost a lot and no one want to pay that at that time

ANSWER:
*The POM BASE and THE ALUMINUM parts which are ONLY FANCY CRAP because the
printer is not working... ARE TOO SPECIAL PARTS.

ALSO THE PRICE IS OVERRATED FOR THIS SHIT... And you should know once you are
claiming the GERMAN REPRAP CRAP has been sold to many countries and BLAH BLAH
BLAH... Buildng some descent spacers IS NOT COSTLY NOR SPECIAL PARTS...* 

te x400 was for that time a great big printer for a great price 

ANSWER:
*That Time you mean 2 years AGO??? That long Huh!!!! Well AGAIN NO...

*you can also buy a compleate one for much more ( the lot work for assambly need
to be paid its not a serias production)

ANSWER:
*I do not know if it is like that again... Because the price was 2700EURO If
memory serves well and assembled was 8000EURO... This is not a logic increase
in cost my friend...

You see a +500EURO would be WAAAAYYYYY TOO MUCH AGAIN for the assembly... and
just my 2 cents THE WHOLE REAL COST PRICE FOR THIS CRAP is more or less 350EURO
OK... Make it 400EURO... 

NO I do not have problems with the profits in companies... Actually I gave a
shot and bought one... Fine I JUST WANT TO PRINT with these 2700EURO///

Not TROUBLESHOOT...*

so my proposal sell it for an extream cheap price ( for me it sound you destroy
a lot of the parts) or give him to a few student for learning

ANSWER:*
NO!!! I will not sell... I actually build my own parts... You see I have a CNC
4 AXIS MILL and build what the CRAP PRINTER needed to function. Something you could not assume!

I CAN POST PHOTOS IF YOU LIKE.. And YES I STILL HAVE ALL THE FAULTY PARTS OF
GERMANREPRAP CRAP without any failures or brakes as you mentioned... 
*
Compare to other companies GRR have a support tieckt system ( the most dont
have or ever answare) and the products working ( so long with the right skill
mounted or ready bought)

I have an X400 an NEO and Protos , our Makerlab has an NEo an X350 2 Ultis and
a few other the only ones who are save that working a normaly the GRR ones 

ANSWER:*

Well you should try other companies ... But I realized that you are on of
them... Is not that right?... You are working for the GERMANREPRAP CRAP...

Or not?*

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## Luchador

I cant write much at the mom bec on a mobile phone , and i also know yet if I want to  answare bec if someone scream so much, but for a few short point i'll give now an answare.

lie, stupid are your words ( for that i need to know you)  , if you would read my text , i wrote about skills! ( the typical reason)
ans sorry to be an mechanical engineer say nothing to your skills.

To my work , you are wrong I never in contract with GRR ( I would be to expensive) I work for the leading smt producer 

My connection is simple that my first one was from them ( snd my 2nd 4th of a lot) snd also s few in our makerlab has s few. additional was a good frind worked for them , snd because i live in Munich ( so far Im at home) i take my parts direkt from them why i know in the past a few people better.  
To other Printers , i can call a few others my own too , and our makerlab has also 4 other ones too ( 2 ultis and 2 exotic ones) 
and also my company bought one ( were i still wish they hsd asked me before they bought with an x350 they wouldnt have the big issues they have now.

If you scream less i maybe wite more to your points 

and yes pictures would help more maybe you realy get all parts wrong ( but how small is the chance to get all wrong)

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## Dontknow

Me too am writing on the phone... just for the previous messages had to go to office ... But Heyyy!!! ANYWAY...

You see you actually Made questions that directly drove to CONCLUSIONS... There is a word for that... but hey anyway...
when you are asking ... How come and so many others did not have a problem... ETC ETC... YOU ARE JUST DRIVING TO CONCLUSIONS!!!

So I have any right to get offended or if you like to be in defend mode....

Now!!! I do not know about your schools but where I went any BSc came with a vast of balls and skills... But still I used my title.. (Is not a title to strengthen the point that I have a plus point in identifying bullshits)

You again drove to conclusions... ONCE MORE!!!!....

I ONLY HAVE TO APPOLOGIZE FOR SUPPOSING YOU ARE WORKING FOR THE GERMANREPARAP CRAP...
But Hey... I bet you do it all times!!!!

WELL I DO NOT GIVE A SH!!!T IF YOU ARE GOING TO ANSWER OR NOT... 

Just one photo of the magnificent design of the GERMAN REPRAP CRAP with the steel holes as you can see (CAN YOU?) perfectly centered... 
Well just to know I had to open with a Φ20mm DRILL bigger holes so the AXIS DO NOT HAVE FRICTION AND HAVE THE SQUEEZING NOISE



All the rest are true and I will make my own thread regarding the poor design!!! Because Obviously we are not going to exchange any more info!!!
Keep walking...!!!

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