# 3D Printing > General 3D Printing Discussion >  Printing Spaghetti as Overhangs (sorta?)

## BradR97

Hi,


I'm new to 3d printing and I have stumbled accross some problems that I cant seem to get my head around. 


Just incase it's needed, I have the Da Vinci 1.0A with Repetier 0.92. I use Slic3r and Repetier Host on my PC.


Recently I flashed my printer to use Repetier and it's all going good, I have had a few problems that I have had to Google but they have been resolved after much tinkering. The problem I have at the moment is that my prints arent very good at all when it comes to overhangs.


I have tried to reduce the temperature in the Da Vinci (to 205C for extruding which works fine as seen in the picture & 105C for the print bed) but it's not making a vast amount of difference. It seems as though it is too hot and it is drooping down. The edges also seem to "swell up" too and the nozzle pushes it back down, it's not delaminating and its not curling. One thing I have noticed is that _I think_ it only happens towards the back of the printer - I'm certainly no expert so any help or info is appreciated!!


I have attached some pictures of a squirrel I printed using this design: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:600429. I printed this in black ABS from printME3D.com


Does anyone know how to resolve the issue of it looking like a bowl of spaghetti?


Now, thats alot of writing. If I've forgotten something please let me know  :Wink: 


20150713_101224.jpg20150713_101257.jpg20150713_101336.jpg20150713_101150.jpg

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## BradR97

Any help would be great, it's driving me insane -_-

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## Feign

This is caused by the same mechanism as curling and delamination; the ABS shrinking as it cools pulls the layer inward and out of alignment with where it should be.  The reason it causes it to curl upward rather than split is that the layer below is still just a little soft from having been printed so recently.  If they are large pieces, try printing more slowly, if the're small, try printing a "cooling tower".  It's a narrow, simple piece the same height of your main print way off on the opposite corner of the print bed to give the print head some time off of your print after each layer.

Alternately, if you don't want to throw away a tower, make small prints in batches, which you space at the far corners of the print bed to fill the same function.

It also looks like you are printing in a very high layer height, Overhangs generally improve far above the usual feature when you print at a finer z-axis resolution.

Also, your problems stem from material shrinkage, and I've not used PrintME3D's filament, so it might be a problem there too.

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## Davo

Like Feign said, decrease print speed; also increase your flow a little (perhaps your filament is undersized - have you measured it?) if you have that ability.

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## Sebastian Finke

Not sure if setting a minimum layer might help. Never actually tried it myself...

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## BradR97

Thank you all for your responses, I'l try them later.

I've just tried printing PLA and it seems to get to around 2 minutes in and it makes a clicking sound and the filament stops getting extruded  :Confused: . I understand this is a jam because the PLA swells, but how do I make it print properly?

I have the 1.0A so it is capable of printing PLA (I can confirm there are heatsinks underneath the fan on the back of the extruder)

Sorry to go off topic  :Stick Out Tongue:

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## Sebastian Finke

> Not sure if setting a minimum layer might help. Never actually tried it myself...


Sorry... meant to say setting minimum layer _time_. That will give everything a chance to cool...

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## BradR97

Ah ok, would that mean a small number or a big number? 

I'm new to the 3D printing scene

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## Sebastian Finke

Like I say I have never had to use it myself but if each layer current takes, say, 10 seconds then perhaps try setting a minimum layer time to 20 seconds. Perhaps others here can chime in. Ultimately you'll have to play around with it a bit to fine tune it.

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## BradR97

Ok, I'm about to have a go at printing a case for my sisters phone so I'l let you know how it goes in an hour or so.

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## BradR97

It finished a while ago and upon inspection it is a bit better, i measured the diameter of the filament at it was 1.8mm so I put that into Slic3r settings. I used the red ABS from PrintME3D this time. I'l post pictures tomorrow (UK time) when its a bit better lighting.

I need to get some more filament but I am unsure whether to get ABS or PLA. I can't seem to get the PLA I have to print properly without it jamming up and making an awful clicking sound after about 2 minutes. Does anyone know how to fix this? It's a shame because I've heard PLA is "easier to print" and is more suitable for most applications but with my experience I just want to avoid it.

Finally, Are any brands better than others? I'm looking at getting some PrimaABS or PrimaPLA rather than PrintMe3D's filament although I can't decide for the life of me whether to get bright green, orange, yellow, blue or grey  :Confused:  :Confused:  :Confused: received_967774903265133.jpg

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## BradR97

> This is caused by the same mechanism as curling and delamination; the ABS shrinking as it cools pulls the layer inward and out of alignment with where it should be.  The reason it causes it to curl upward rather than split is that the layer below is still just a little soft from having been printed so recently.  If they are large pieces, try printing more slowly, if the're small, try printing a "cooling tower".  It's a narrow, simple piece the same height of your main print way off on the opposite corner of the print bed to give the print head some time off of your print after each layer.
> 
> Alternately, if you don't want to throw away a tower, make small prints in batches, which you space at the far corners of the print bed to fill the same function.
> 
> It also looks like you are printing in a very high layer height, Overhangs generally improve far above the usual feature when you print at a finer z-axis resolution.
> 
> Also, your problems stem from material shrinkage, and I've not used PrintME3D's filament, so it might be a problem there too.


The settings I have at the moment are the standard for Slic3r. What do I need to adjust and to what extent? Does one need to be adjusted if another value is changed? 

Permimeters: 60mm/s
Small perimeters: 15mm/s
External Perimeters: 50%
Infill: 80mm/s
Solid Infill: 20mm/s
Top Solid Infill: 15mm/s
Support Material: 60mm/s
Support Material Interface (Greyed out): 100%
Bridges: 60mm/s
Gap Fill: 20mm/s

SPEED FOR NON PRINT MOVES
Travel: 130mm/s

MODIFIERS
First Layer Speed: 30mm/s

ACCELERATION CONTROL
Perimeters (Greyed out): 0mm/s2
Infill(Greyed out): 0mm/s2
Bridge(Greyed out): 0mm/s2
First Layer(Greyed out): 0mm/s2
Default: 0mm/s2

AUTOSPEED:
Max Print Speed: 80mm/s
Max Volumetric Speed: 0mm3/s

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## LambdaFF

For PLA it always helps to have an additional fan blowing on the part to cool it further.

The clicking sound is usually due to hot end jamming. In this case it can be due to switching from ABS (higher temp) to PLA (lower temp) if you have a little left in, it is too cool to melt and jams the hot end.

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## curious aardvark

205 seems a bit cool for abs.

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