# 3D Printing > 3D Printers (Hardware) >  Wanhao Duplicator I3 3D Printer

## Brian_Krassenstein

Miami-based firm, Wanhao USA has just introduced an incredibly affordable, yet very robust 3D printer.  Priced at $375, the Wanhao Duplicator I3 has a decent build envelope, a sturdy all-steel frame, and a relatively high quality extruder in the MK10.  The printer is available for pre-order and is priced at an incredible price for a limited time.  More details on this new machine can be found here: http://3dprint.com/62585/wanhao-usa-duplicator-i3/   Below are a few of the specs for the Duplicator I3:

Build Volume: 200 x 200 x 180mmLayer Height: 0.1mmFilament: PLA, ABS at 1.75mm

Below are some images of this printer.  Let us know what you think and if you have tried one out:

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## Wes@MachWax

Just to be clear, Wanhao is based in China.  The Miami address is a hub they ship certain things from.  On their forums, I have heard people mention that the Miami address is someone's house.  I cannot find it to verify though.  

That aside, this seems like a VERY good value for the list price.

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## sinful

since when wanhao is Miami based and has something to do with Rhino?  :Smile:

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## desertstriker8

Very interested in this, I just don't wan a get burned like I did on the solidoodle press. This machine looks good but wish there was more info, do you guys think this will be worth it? I currently habe a second gen Cube Printer and it works pretty great but I was bigger build size and not have to use proprietary cartridges. Thanks

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## wendy

It looks great!

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## lingodan

The first ones should be getting to the doorsteps this week!

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## voodoo28

Did you receive an email confirming this?




> The first ones should be getting to the doorsteps this week!

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## rhd

Mine is here. I'm incredibly impressed. I have very little frame of reference though, since I only have one other printer. However, this seems very solid in construction and it was basically ready to go right out of the box (8 screws to attach in total, and it even comes with the hex wrenches to do so - kind of like Ikea furniture!). Honestly, it blows my mind that this was available for the price I paid. This is a heavy, rigid, printer. Very little plastic to be found anywhere.

I haven't even hooked it up to a PC yet, I've just been printing from SD cards (I like the concept of saving the GCode to an SD card so that if my computer restarts for a windows update, or for whatever other reason freezes or reboots, it doesn't interrupt the printer).

The only flaw I've spotted so far is that it doesn't run the extruder fan enough, which causes PLA jams as the extruder heats up. This is solvable by simply manually turning the fan on 100% at the beginning of a print, but if you forget to do that, you'll run into jamming issues a few hours in to a long PLA print. I tried adding "M106 S255" or "M106 S1.0" to my GCode, but that doesn't seem to turn on the fans. So unless Wanhao provides some guidance re: GCode to turn on the fan (or an update to always turn the fan on full when printing PLA) then it will be necessary to remember to turn it on manually each time you print with PLA.

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## DBFIU

375? What!!?? Thats giving it away.

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## Sebastian Finke

I wouldn't mind one of these. They go for about R8000 here, which is a steal.

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## curious aardvark

work out at £350 in the uk. 

These are hands down the best value for money printer around at the moment. 
Just need to see some prints from them :-)

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## Sebastian Finke

> work out at £350 in the uk. 
> 
> These are hands down the best value for money printer around at the moment. 
> *Just need to see some prints from them* :-)


Touche...  :Wink:

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## Cyber Akuma

> 375? What!!?? Thats giving it away.


They kinda were, I think that was a preliminary at-cost price. I am kicking myself for not ordering one sooner, literally overnight on the day I was considering ordering one the price has gone up to $430  :Frown:

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## rhd

I may have spoken too soon on my previous excitement about this printer. I've cross-posted this to Google Groups, but thought maybe someone here may have a repair solution, in case Wanhao doesn't come through.

My unit printed fantastically for a couple days, but now it doesn't seem to be able to heat up the extruder reliably. When I tell the machine to heat to PLA temperature, or load a GCode file, the temperature does nothing. It just sits at room temperature, and heats up a few degrees (to maybe 30 or so) from the radiated heat it absorbs from the hotbed. Then, if I play around with the cables, it will randomly start heating up. Sometimes (as in the attached video), it will heat ALL the way up to extrusion temperature. However, if I start actually printing something, it will immediately fall back down again, eventually back to room temperature. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nv4X3aZnNdw

I've contacted Wanhao, and they were initially fairly responsive, asking for more photographs. I provided more photos, but haven't heard back from them yet. 

As a side note, I've also noticed that my unit is missing the vertical "CNC drag chain", and instead they've just wrapped the wires in something less protective. I'm wondering if that indicates that they had a problem with the wiring on my unit, played around with it, thought it was fixed, and then shipped (without replacing the drag chain).

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## Cyber Akuma

What site did you buy it from?

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## TeamTEOR

Hello everyone. I have one on order as well. Paid the $375 price for it. I look forward to being a part of this community, and sharing experiences with our new machines. So far I have no indication that my machine has shipped, and it was ordered via the WanHao USA website. If anyone is in the Phoenix area and is part of any groups please let me know.
Tom

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## TeamTEOR

> Mine is here. I'm incredibly impressed.


 Do you mind giving us a hint about when you placed your order? Maybe I can get an idea how far back in line I am for shipment.

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## TeamTEOR

Just got notification that my printer has been shipped!

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## TeamTEOR

I should be getting the printer today! Things here are so quiet, I am hoping that there has been very little to discuss as the printer is in good shape. I'll snap pictures of it as I unbox it.

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## TeamTEOR

5992.jpg
It is here, I am still at work, but will unbox it later tonight.

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## TeamTEOR

I am new to 3D printing, however have been at my local hacker space and have used their machine (TAZ LulzBot), so I am using the setup that I've seen used over there.

Setup took a couple of mins.... It was all of 6 screws and then putting the included tape onto the print bed.  On one of the corners of the heatbed I had to remove the washers because with them in place I was not able to set the height to a decent level. I used a thick sheet of paper to set the height (similar to business card stock thickness), once the paper was able to move freely under the nozzle 2 inches from each corner of the heatbed I left it alone. In the G-Code setup on Cura, I told it to use the temps of 218 for the extruder and 70 for the bed hoping I would get a decent print. Things seemed to work ok with this first print at 25% fill (probably overkill). The 1.75mm PLA being used was bought over at FRY's Electronics for $25 (1kg spool)

wanhao_i3.jpg

cellphone stand.jpg

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## raysspl

Not a bad price at all

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## LambdaFF

> I may have spoken too soon on my previous excitement about this printer. I've cross-posted this to Google Groups, but thought maybe someone here may have a repair solution, in case Wanhao doesn't come through.
> 
> My unit printed fantastically for a couple days, but now it doesn't seem to be able to heat up the extruder reliably. When I tell the machine to heat to PLA temperature, or load a GCode file, the temperature does nothing. It just sits at room temperature, and heats up a few degrees (to maybe 30 or so) from the radiated heat it absorbs from the hotbed. Then, if I play around with the cables, it will randomly start heating up. Sometimes (as in the attached video), it will heat ALL the way up to extrusion temperature. However, if I start actually printing something, it will immediately fall back down again, eventually back to room temperature. 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nv4X3aZnNdw
> 
> I've contacted Wanhao, and they were initially fairly responsive, asking for more photographs. I provided more photos, but haven't heard back from them yet. 
> 
> As a side note, I've also noticed that my unit is missing the vertical "CNC drag chain", and instead they've just wrapped the wires in something less protective. I'm wondering if that indicates that they had a problem with the wiring on my unit, played around with it, thought it was fixed, and then shipped (without replacing the drag chain).


I would think one of the cables of the heater failed mechanically. I suggest you change (request to support) all the wires for the hotend. 
You can whip up a cable chain like this :
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/pr...us-cable-chain

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## curious aardvark

price wise wanhao seems to be dropping the cost. 
Now down to £326 in the uk - with delivery ! 
$429 in the states. which is ONLY £270 !  That really is giving it away !

So under no circumstances should you yanks winge at the cost :-0)

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## ReedRods

This is my first post.  I've been reading these forums for a while.  I will be purchasing a 3d printer soon.  It will be my first.  I will be using it for some odd and end stuff but also to get my daughter familiar with the technology.  She is 4, soon to be 5.  The i3 Duplicator has me interested for my first 3d printer.  I've tried to contact the company 4 separate times, 3 by email and 1 by phone, for the past week and a half and have yet to receive a response.  I had some questions about the printer before purchasing.  Their website says that I would receive a response within 24 hours.  That hasn't been the case.  Has anyone else had trouble reaching this company or had trouble with customer support?

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## Cyber Akuma

3D printers are still far too early in their design stages to be used by children that young. 3D printers are NOT toys, especially very-open designs such as the i3. The nozzle heats to over 200 degrees Celsius, the ENTIRE BED heats to 60-100 Celsius. It's full of very hot and very heavy moving metal parts all over it. On top of that, it takes some knowledge to configure and make it work right, these aren't "hit print and go" printers, the tech is still too early for that. Some materials such as ABS even release toxic fumes as you print.

These are definitely *NOT* for young children.

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## ReedRods

> 3D printers are still far too early in their design stages to be used by children that young. 3D printers are NOT toys, especially very-open designs such as the i3. The nozzle heats to over 200 degrees Celsius, the ENTIRE BED heats to 60-100 Celsius. It's full of very hot and very heavy moving metal parts all over it. On top of that, it takes some knowledge to configure and make it work right, these aren't "hit print and go" printers, the tech is still too early for that. Some materials such as ABS even release toxic fumes as you print.
> 
> These are definitely *NOT* for young children.


I had no intention of letting her run the printer, I wasn't clear.  She can help me design toys, and see various uses for it.

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## curious aardvark

and there are a load of apps on tablets that let you do that fairly easily now too :-)

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## Wes@MachWax

> This is my first post.  I've been reading these forums for a while.  I will be purchasing a 3d printer soon.  It will be my first.  I will be using it for some odd and end stuff but also to get my daughter familiar with the technology.  She is 4, soon to be 5.  The i3 Duplicator has me interested for my first 3d printer.  I've tried to contact the company 4 separate times, 3 by email and 1 by phone, for the past week and a half and have yet to receive a response.  I had some questions about the printer before purchasing.  Their website says that I would receive a response within 24 hours.  That hasn't been the case.  Has anyone else had trouble reaching this company or had trouble with customer support?


From my experience with Wanhao, their direct support was poor.  I went weeks w/o reply before giving up fixing my issues at my own cost.  They never did actually reply fwiw.  You will get the most support on their google forums.  Which most contributions are largely from other customers, and a person who goes by the handle Jetguy rather than people directly working for Wanhao.  While they offer a great value for the hardware you receive, the service is where I found they lacked. Still worth it imo.  But to their credit, they do pay attention to those forums, and implement improvements.  I have heard that their service was improving, but your experience sounds more like mine.  Also to their credit, they do not delete fair criticisms on those forums.

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## atoff

> This is my first post.  I've been reading these forums for a while.  I will be purchasing a 3d printer soon.  It will be my first.  I will be using it for some odd and end stuff but also to get my daughter familiar with the technology.  She is 4, soon to be 5.  The i3 Duplicator has me interested for my first 3d printer.  I've tried to contact the company 4 separate times, 3 by email and 1 by phone, for the past week and a half and have yet to receive a response.  I had some questions about the printer before purchasing.  Their website says that I would receive a response within 24 hours.  That hasn't been the case.  Has anyone else had trouble reaching this company or had trouble with customer support?


I emailed them about a month ago, then again 2 weeks later when they didn't respond to my first two emails.  Then I started emailing them every other day, trying to get their attention to have someone respond to ANY of my emails.  I contacted sales, contacted support, sent the owner an email, messaged them on Reddit, left a message on their facebook.  It's been about 6 weeks, I haven't heard back once.  I'd say their customer service is absolute shit unfortunately.  Oh, I was able to contact their overseas sales dept through aliexpress.  The rep told me they don't handle sales for the U.S, but that she'd pass on a message letting them know to respond to my emails... I'm not naive enough to think she passed along any sort of message.

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## stewscustoms

hello, my first post here. has there been any update recently about the printer, experiences and support for this printer and company? I'm interested in buying this printer as my first printer to get my feet wet.

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## Cyber Akuma

Most of the discussion about this printer (including a fix about a recently discovered shorting (possible fire?)-hazard) is happening at the Google Groups forum, so if you want some of the latest news/tweaks, check there:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!to...ao-printer-3d/

As for a general starting guide however, look here:
http://3dprinterbrain.com/pmwiki.php/DupI3/DuplicatorI3

Definitely look at the "Recommended Mods" page, and if you want, some of the ones on the "Extra Mods" page can help improve the quality as well.

Just keep in mind two things.

First, that several of the ones on the recommended mods page have already been performed on newer printers shipped out (Such as Z-axis dampners, having the extruder fan on always-on, and adding a fan to the control box, but check to make sure yours does have these) and that the pages for the DI3 on Printer Brain haven't been updated in a while (Most importantly, the shorting hazard of the crimped connections, HIGHLY recommended you perform that fix first before using it).

I am currently working on performing the last of a few modifications to mine before using it for the first time, so feel free to ask any questions as well.

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## stewscustoms

hey, thank you for the info and important update. very much appreciated.

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## baysail

> hello, my first post here. has there been any update recently about the printer, experiences and support for this printer and company? I'm interested in buying this printer as my first printer to get my feet wet.


I ordered a Wanhao Duplicator i3 from wanhao usa. My first clue that I made a mistake was when they did not ship for over a month and did not return emails. I finally asked them to cancel my order. Then they shipped the next day.


Now the company does not respond to requests for parts when the machine breaks down under warranty. This machine has been broken longer than it has been running in two months. If they can't even send you the repair parts I could just imagine what would happen if you tried to send it back for service work under warranty. They also delete any negative comments from their google groups discussions topics so that forum isn't a 'real' indication of anything anybody is experiencing.

I also recently had a heating problem that I traced to a connection on the inside of the cable chain.  It may look cool but it's a pain to access any of the wires in there.  The connection is getting very hot and could possibly cause a fire.  I've stopped using it again until I can fix this.

Once you are beyond the time period to cancel your credit card payment you are completely on your own.

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## tahustvedt

I got mine today (from technologyoutlet.co.uk) and it's printing the DiiiCooler from ABS right now, my first print after the successfull test model. It's my first printer, but CNC routers have been a hobby of mine since 2006. It sure was easy to set up, and does nice prints. The test print went without a hitch once I put down some tape, but the PLA raft lifted from the clean glass when I first tried that. I didn't bother laying down the included bed tape.

I modified the bed before printing anything, by adding nuts under the spring bolts and replacing the wing nuts with some brass knurled wheels that I tured in my lathe yesterday.

I see one thing that will definitely fail if I don't do anything about it. The heated bed wires are unsupported, and will definitely break some time, so I'm going to add a bracket that lets me secure them with a clip. 

Also, those cable chains are silly on a small machine like this. I will probably rearrange the wires into braided sleeves and support them in both ends in a large loop. Much better on small machines like this (and my small CNC router). Here's an example where the motor and signal wires are bundled in a braided sleeve and supported at both ends. No chance of breaking at terminals and much cleaner and less strenous.

cnc18.jpg

I also want to make a connector between the control box and the machine, but first I'm going to enjoy it a little.  :Smile:

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## curious aardvark

use gluestick on the glass for pla. 
I basically add  a couple of layers before each print. Soon builds up to a nice thick layer of peelable plastic and with a slow first layer you don't need rafts with pla. 

Plus as you're basically printing directly on the pva - doesn't matter what's below it.
You're in the uk - go into a poundworld - 2 large gluesticks and 3 small ones for an entire pound :-)
The big ones last for months, haven't had to crack a small one yet. 

You could probably have printed the adjustment wheels out - love the fact that you turned them from brass instead :-)

What slicer are you using ?

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## tahustvedt

Yeah I probably could print them, but I needed something to do as I was going crazy waiting for the machine to get here. I'll post a pic soon.

I'm in Norway, actually.  :Smile:  I couldn't find anywhere to buy it in Norway until a couple of days after I had ordered. It was cheaper for me to order from UK anyway.

I'm using a Scotch glue stick right now for printing ABS. Works pretty well. I'm printing at 60 mm/s and 230°C/95°C. The hot end seems to be lagging behind or something because the temperature sits at 220-225°C most of the time.

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## tahustvedt

I took a quick shot of it while printing: 
Printer01.jpg

Video: https://instagram.com/p/8dlbFDF1Wq/

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## curious aardvark

pretty sure all gluesticks are the same :-) 
Had a loo at one last week - they're pretty solid machines. 
great build volume for the price. 

So what slicer software are you using ?

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## tahustvedt

Repetier-Host, using the CuraEngine slicer. I print from SD so as not to occupy the PC.

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## tahustvedt

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1fOuoy2UU0

The part turned out fine. I also printed the 30 mm adapter since I don't have a blower yet. They are installed and working n printing a phone holder for my velomobile now.

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## Cyber Akuma

> I see one thing that will definitely fail if I don't do anything about it. The heated bed wires are unsupported, and will definitely break some time, so I'm going to add a bracket that lets me secure them with a clip.


I love that idea, could you please keep us up to date on when you do it? I have been attempting to perform some improvements on mine.




> Also, those cable chains are silly on a small machine like this. I will probably rearrange the wires into braided sleeves and support them in both ends in a large loop.


As I recall, it originally didn't have those, but they were added later due to consumer feedback and issues they encountered, there is actually a version 2 that fixes most of the common issues, though there are still some that exist which need to be addressed (such as the wires for the heating element, see my post above)




> pretty sure all gluesticks are the same :-)


Everyone seems to suggest the purple gluestick from Elmer's particularly...




> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1fOuoy2UU0
> 
> The part turned out fine. I also printed the 30 mm adapter since I don't  have a blower yet. They are installed and working n printing a phone  holder for my velomobile now.


Still kinda undecided on which cooler to go with.

I had  actually printed out several coolers and tested how well they worked  with the stock fan, and from my testing version 1.6 of TiDiPi's cooler  seems to circulate air the best:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:881566 

However, then a new pronged non-circular design came up by Delukart:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1013770

I  was told that this pronged-shape makes more sense than a circular one  since it just needs to send air sideways across the recently printed  part, not in a circle everywhere, and it's internal structure provides  far better airflow. Downside is the stock fan doesn't work with it and  you need to get a blower-type fan.

Before I could even get around to printing it however, this new circular version by Pawpawpaw85 appeared:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471

Now  I am at a loss at which one to go with. I can't even print the Delukart  version yet because it's too big for my current printer so I will need  to finish working on my DI3 first before I can print it, and even if I  did, not sure which design would be more efficient out of those three.

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## tahustvedt

Mine is the second generation upgraded version. 

I looked at those ducts myself. Spent lots of time on Thingiversere. I want to make my own duct eventually. The non-circular one is interesting looking. It could be made so that the nozzle is visible too. The circular ones hide the action too well.

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## tahustvedt

Benchy ABS. 60 mm/s. Lots of echoes, but still pretty good IMHO.

Printer06.jpgPrinter07.jpg

I turned a spare 0.4mm brass nozzle in my lathe to see if I could do it. It wasn't difficult, but pretty time consuming.
nozzle01.jpg

BTW. Why aren't there any bronze nozzles available? I think it's harder and more slippery than brass. I have a bronze bar lying around.

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## curious aardvark

boat looks good - what's an echo ?

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## tahustvedt

I mean those artifacts that appear after openings that look like ghosts of the openings.

I modeled my own fan duct for the stock fan. Strongly influenced by the DiiiCooler, but larger volume and openings to avoid increasing the pressure. I'm trying to print it but the printer suddenly stops for no apparent reason now. I'll try another SD card.

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## Cyber Akuma

Try removing the reset jumper, that is one of the known bugs when using a SD card with the printer

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## tahustvedt

Ok. I'll open it up later. What exactly does that jumper do?

Here's my duct. One that worked itself loose from the table (Old version), One that stopped halfway through, and the STL of the latest version.

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## Cyber Akuma

It enables software reset, with it removed it can't reset through software commands.

Not my words:



> That jumper connects the reset out of the USB to serial conversion  chip (FTDI- both a brand name and an acronym- google it) to the main  processor.
> 
> The main processor is the printer controller. It runs  the firmware, is what displays on the screen and is what makes the thing  work.
> 
> If you reset the main processor- just like windows booting  up, it takes a few seconds. During that time period, software cannot  connect to it. If reset happens during a print, that's it- game over,  that print is ruined and cannot be restarted.
> 
> However, there are  logical times when you might want to cause a reset commanded from the  computer and that can send a command to the FTDI chip, that in turn  resets the processor
> 
>  The OTHER problem is the microSD card slot  is powered via a spare voltage regulator output to generate the 3.3V  used by SD cards VS the 5V used by the FTDI, main processor, and all the  other logic on the board.
> ...

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## JonHence

Thanks for sharing the new 3D printer introduction here. I am new in Robotics and looking for a 3D which can help me to design the robot parts according to my specifications.
I want to know the full specification of the product you shared. Also in which type of applications it will be helpful.
I have the need to design Gears most of the times.

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## tahustvedt

My quest to increase airflow with the fans I have on hand has ended. 
Printer09.jpgPrinter11.jpg
This duct is a smooth spiral around the nozzle with a large enough opening to not stall the fan... I think. The 15-to-45-degree-overhang-test showed great improvement.


Here's the awesome DiiiCooler on the left, with my idiotic 50mm scoop adapter, then my first duct for 50 mm, and then two failed prints of my final 30mm fan duct.
Printer10.jpg
I'm not sure if I can upload my duct to Thingiverse since The DiiiCooler-license says "no derivatives".

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## tahustvedt

I checked the jumper, and it was indeed closed. I unplugged it and went on to tweak the wires a little. I added a small aluminum piece to the heat bed and then clamped the wires in a P-clamp. The movement now stops at the clamp instead of the solders. I also added a zip-tie to the wires where they exit the cable chain on the extruder assembly. That stopped the wires from moving about the connectors on the extruder and such.

Printer12.jpgPrinter13.jpg

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## tahustvedt

I made a felt nozzle wiper for my printer and added a sequence that wipes the nozzle before each job, after warming up.


Frustratingly slow video of the process. I'll move the wiper outside the table later on, but for now it sits on the glass edge.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GuEZFNsIEc

Here's the felt I used:


G-Code: 
G0 X30 Y195 Z10 ; Clean nozzle
G0 X30 Y195 Z2 ; Clean nozzle
G1 X90 Y195 Z2 F1200 ; Clean nozzle
G1 X90 Y192 Z2 F1200 ; Clean nozzle
G1 X30 Y192 Z2 F1200 ; Clean nozzle
G0 Z15 ; Raise nozzle



Since my last post I have milled down the aluminum on the bearing blocks to eliminate the belt rub. I'm pretty annoyed that the end pulleys are larger than the drive pulleys. It's just poor craftmanship. I'll probably turn them down to size

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## Cyber Akuma

Wouldn't that shrink your printable area a bit though?

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## tahustvedt

Yes, but I think the Y can actually move more than 200 mm, so I will make a holder for the wiper later on, just off the edge of the glass. The current position is only temporary.

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## tahustvedt

Ok, I finally found a USB cable long enough to reach my printer, so I could change the EEPROM. I added 10 mm to the Y Max (but not print area) and glued a strip on the hot bed off the edge of the glass, and wrote new coordinates, at 202 and 204 mm Y. Works fine.  :Smile:  I wonder how it reponds to 100°C ABS temperatures. :P

G0 X10 Y204 Z15 ; Clean nozzle
G0 Z0 ; Clean nozzle
G1 X80 F1200 ; Clean nozzle
G1 Y202 F1200 ; Clean nozzle
G1 X10 F1200 ; Clean nozzle
G0 Z15 ; Raise nozzle

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## Cyber Akuma

Wait, how were you able to flash it over USB? It doesn't have a bootloader, you would need an AVR programmer.

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## tahustvedt

Magic, I suppose. It's going beyond 200mm now, and stops at 210mm. It stopped at 200 before. I checked.

Some settings like max feedrate, acceleration, jerk and PID can be changed via the control panel, and it says "Store to EEPROM" to make them permanent.

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## Cyber Akuma

What firmware did you use? I recall in the Google Groups someone compiled a version of the firmware without a beeping since some found it annoying, but stated you needed a programmer to flash it.

How were you able to flash it with the reset jumper removed?

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## tahustvedt

The firmware is the same that it came with.  I didn't do anything special, it just works, even with the jumper removed. I use Repetier Host to change the settings.

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## Cyber Akuma

Oh, you mean you just changed the settings, not reflash the firmware itself.

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## tahustvedt

Yes, I open "Firmware EEPROM Configuration" and change the settings.

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## tahustvedt

I'm having a lot of trouble with clogging now. The filament is clogging the PTFE tube above the hot end in conditions which have been working fine up until now. I have printed 1300 m of filament now. The tube is deformed and brown on one half, but I ran a 2mm drill through it and it works for a while. This time I flipped it around. Will it print like new again if I replace the tube completely? It's frustrating. Maybe I should make an all metal hot end.

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## tahustvedt

I decided to try making one. Stainless and aluminum, like the Swiss hotend. Only the nozzle left to make now.

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## tahustvedt

It works. It's so much easier to manually push filament through this hot end. It's been printing for a few minutes now, and even holds the temperature with the DiiiCooler on full blast. I'm stoked. I hope it lasts.

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## tahustvedt

I had lots of trouble with the metal hot end once I installed a powerful fan. Turns out I need a much shorter retract setting, probably due to an effective heat break. I can actually print without the extruder fan running and it doesn't overheat. It's great now. Haven't tried higher than 120 mm/s, but it copes with that just fine. 

I designed a new fan duct yesterday which mounts everything behind the X-axis, and is very effective. Check it out:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1090433

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## kleinberg

Well.. I would not buy any Wanhao printer.
They don't accept return by their policy even though the printer is defective:
https://checkout.shopify.com/2997809...s/1122813.html

Just to cite it in the policy "RETURNS/REFUNDS: Although we offer a 3 year warranty, there are no refunds or returns on any items purchased through www.wanhaousa.com unless it is due to a shipping/delivery related issue."
They say warranty, but they don't respond after they sell.
Don't buy a Wanhao. You will 100% regret.

----------


## Wes@MachWax

> Dear All USA Customer, 
> 
> WANHAO has decided to stop the distributorship of WANHAOUSA since 29th Oct 2015.  And WANHAO no longer supply WANHAOUSA. 
> 
> 
> Any products from WANHAOUSA after 29th Oct 2015 is not original WANHAO products.
> 
> 
> Sincerely, 
> ...


https://groups.google.com/forum/#!to...3d/zIbulO2O-jc

----------


## rpgminis

Oh man - I am a noob to 3d printers and researching what is within my budget.  I was seriously looking at this one.  Good thing I held off on getting this!

----------


## tahustvedt

The Wanhao i3 works fine right out of the box, but with some tinkering it becomes a fantastic printer, so for the money it's a good deal. I'm printing at 90 mm/s with a metal hot end, and have printed for ten hours a day on average since september fifth.

----------


## curious aardvark

answer is simple - don't buy it from wanhaousa. 

Doesn't make the printer any less of  a bargain.

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## Wes@MachWax

> answer is simple - don't buy it from wanhaousa. 
> 
> Doesn't make the printer any less of  a bargain.


This^

People should understand that despite the name, WanhaoUSA is not owned by Wanhao.  They are(were) just a distributor.  Wanhao (China) still offers a good value for many models as well as the I3 in the op.

----------


## rbnn

WANHAOUSA is crap! I wish I had found this forum before. I placed mi order almost a month ago, and I haven't even received my so called FEDEX tracking number.  The service sucks, as you said, they e-mail you back once a week or so. And as far as I've been able to see, there's only one person running that "bussines": Manny Figueira. 
No matter how good the prices seem, it's a web of lies. Don't buy anything from that site!

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## Cyber Akuma

> WANHAOUSA is crap! I wish I had found this forum before. I placed mi order almost a month ago, and I haven't even received my so called FEDEX tracking number.  The service sucks, as you said, they e-mail you back once a week or so. And as far as I've been able to see, there's only one person running that "bussines": Manny Figueira. 
> No matter how good the prices seem, it's a web of lies. Don't buy anything from that site!


Yeah, I wish I had known that they were not an official branch before I ordered.

Wanhao themselves make good printers, but they don't have any official branch anywhere outside of China. WanhaoUSA's name was pretty misleading, they have nothing to do with Wanhao themselves, and a few weeks ago Wanhao themselves officially claimed they are no longer considered a reliable redistributor.

Plenty of other reliable sites to purchase a Wanhao printer from.

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## Adamseye

Anyone buy from here? http://ultimate3dprintingstore.com/

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## PrintPunk

Worst support ever = WanhaoUSA

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## Barbarus

Hello party people!
I have just ordered a I3 V2, and will pick it up tomorrow. Super excited since its my first 3D printer. I ordered from a Swedish web site (since thats where I live).
(web site: http://www.3dprima.com/en/  Paid ish 400 EUR) 
I have a question though... Ive seen some people here setting up what appears to be an extra fan close to the extruder. Why? What part are you trying to cool down? The plastic itself after it has been melted onto the "bed"? Will it still be as strong in question of "sticking" the next layer to the previous one if its cooled down that fast? Cause it feels like everyone is doing this and maybe I also need to fix it then? 
I am sorry for what may be a stupid question. But I am very new to this. (a classic noob thing to say, eh?)  :Smile:

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## curious aardvark

yes a fan blowing on the print area is - in my opinion - essential. 

It doesn't effect how the layers bond, but the quicker you can cool the hot plastic down, the fewer print issues you will have. 
Curves print better, overhangs and underhangs print better. 

The plastic still come sout of the nozzle just as hot, it's only cooled after it's stuck to the bed or existing plastic. 
So - yep that's the first thing I would print if I were you :-)

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## Barbarus

Cheers mate! Hehe, looks like I already have my first project for the weekend then. 
So its normal 30mm Fan? I guess should be same voltage as the one that is already on there.... Can I just connect it parallel to the existing one? I mean, on the same "output", same pins and all? Or do I have to connect it to the electrical cabinet separately?

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## Cyber Akuma

What extra fan are you talking about exactly? I know some people added a fan to the control box... but that was put into the production versions long ago, and lots of people have modified the nozzle cooling fan, but the printer still comes with one.

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## Barbarus

A few pages back people have posted "home made" upgrade kits. Where they put on an extra fan to cool down the material more evenly and faster. So first you print a holder for the fan, then install that extra fan. But I wonder how do people wire it...

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## Cyber Akuma

You sure it's an extra fan? Because a lot of those are just putting a better designed vent on the existing fan, OR replacing the existing fan with another, not adding an additional fan.

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## Barbarus

Its been a long day at work I guess... Now I see that people simply upgrade their fans with a self made vent. But Ive also seen people changing the fan to a more powerful and bigger one (50mm) or installing a blower instead. I am also a bit worried about the vibration which seems to be a problem for some folks. But we'll see. I am picking up mine tomorrow (V2). 
So Ill post later this weekend and tell how it works. 
Thanks for all the info, btw!  :Smile:

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## Barbarus

So! Finally! I have got my I3 V2 a few days ago, been busy so have not had time to print a lot but here are some prints:
This came on the SD card.  Came out pretty well. Hard to see since it reflects some light here, but overall I was pleased.
U3yeICywigI.jpg

Second print: 

(sorry for the size). Its a MOLLE holder for the hose for my Camelback. Worked out great.

Third model:

A Picatinny rail mount for a GoPro. Pretty ok, even though the bottom is a little bit meh... 

Ill make one more post for the last one, since it came out bad in my opinion....

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## Barbarus

Now, here I had an issue. I tried to print this model: 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:968669
I used Cura, 80% infill, 35mm speed, 195 deg.C, support and everything.... 0.2mm/layer.

And it came out terrible. 
The red circle is around "support"... I guess it was ok. But the "green circle" is just sad... that was the lower side where the support was made. It came out very uneven and looks shit... The blue circles are some other places where the finish is pretty sad. And I am not sure what I did wrong... 
Any good thoughts? 
bad.jpg

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## Adamseye

I don't think you did anything wrong, to stop that from happening you have a few choices. Get that fan blowing at 100%, With my duplicator and a 40mm fan on the extruder tip I can print rather small items and cool them well enough to prevent fails. The stock fan I can't speak of, mine never worked. I also printed a blower from thingiverse to use over the stock one. The other option is to slow down your print speed with Minimal layer time, that will slow down the speed of the printer to reach that set time. Or you can enable Cool lift head in expert settings. That will move the extruder away from the print and allow it to cool.

Hope that helps!

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## Barbarus

Maybe...  :Smile:  
I had a problem with feeding as well. So I figured that the nozzle (MK10 or whatever it is) was clogged. So I took it all apart and yepp..it was clogged. So I cleaned it up to the best of my ability and put it all together. The problem was that I accidentally connected the fan contact in the wrong way so I shorted it  :Big Grin:  Maybe just as good so I will buy a better one. Or a blower that everyone speaks of.
And here is my question - on the fan it says 12V-1.1W - If I buy a new one - can I get a stronger one with more effect (Watt)? Or does it have to be exactly the same?

----------


## Adamseye

I'm not 100% but I have been running a 50mm on the cooler for a week now with no problems. Getting some nice results bridging with it too. Just a regular 50 not a blower type. I think jetguy said something to the effect of the board being capable of handling more fans. I have two noctua's 40mm fans coming, I have been threw 3 fans already. The radio shack 40mm I got is a nice fan, but it suffered the wrath of my thumb.

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## Barbarus

Hm...interesting. Another stupid question - what size do you measure? I mean I just looked at my fan and its 30mm on  "sides" and is 40mm diagonally... so is it 40mm or 30m fan?  :Big Grin:  
Where do you use your 50mm and what power do you have on the 40mm that you ordered? 
Can you maybe give me the link to that fan? And also to the "blower" you printed? 

PS
Damn... Ive spent a good 3 hours yesterday disassembling the feeder, extruder, and  trying to fix the fan. But on the bright side - now I know how the sh*t works. Which is actually pretty simple... I thought there would be more to it when it came to the feeder.

PPS
Just googled it. So fan is measured from side to side. Which means that I have a 30mm fan (the one on front, blowing onto the hotend).

PPPS
So I think Ima buy this one:
http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?t...=AK-160%20BL-S
It has a nice Blue LED so its gonna look nice. 5000 RPM - good enough?

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## Wes@MachWax

> Hm...interesting. Another stupid question - what size do you measure? I mean I just looked at my fan and its 30mm on  "sides" and is 40mm diagonally... so is it 40mm or 30m fan?


You measure the "sides" for a fan.  I think diagonal is used mostly just for TVs.

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## Barbarus

Yepp, got it - see my "PPS" in the post above.
But the quesion is - how powerful can the fan be?

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## Adamseye

The duct I am liking is this one, http://www.thingiverse.com/make:190841/  I love it but the 40mm to 50mm adapter and that 50mm fan make it a bit shaky which I don't like. The fans I got are here, http://www.amazon.com/40x10mm-Bearin...&keywords=40mm 6 watts .05amps. The company is known for high quality quiet fans, probably best you can buy to my knowledge. They have a 6 year warranty to boot!

You measure the fan on the sides, but also keep in mind fans come in two types, high air flow and high pressure. A high pressure fan is designed to blow air over heatsinks, like the extruder heatsink. This is where I plan on using the Noctua, to cool the extruder. The fan you linked is a high pressure fan, and more suited to cool the extruder then blast the hot end with cool air.

You can almost tell by the pitch of the blades, but they are normally marked chipset fan or cooling fan. Chipset fans go against a heat sink, cooling fans blow lots of air. A blower style fan would probably be best for this application, however I have yet to need one. I can print as small as I want with the cooling system I have now.

hope that helps too!

P.s. I'm not 100 but I don't think you should have an issue with what ever fan you buy. I don't think it would do much more then not run at its full rating due to a lack of power.

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## Barbarus

Thanks a lot mate! I will try with the one I posted and see how it goes  :Smile: 
My biggest Issue besides that is the freaking Cura.... for some reason it does not save a complete Gcode file... only first few layers... I tried to re-install and everything - didnt help.
I will eventually buy S3D, but right now I fell its a bit pricey. On the other hand - Cura issue is annoying...

For the Fan duct I will try this one:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:969338

PS
Can you take a look at the attached gcode? Does it look ok to you?

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## curious aardvark

yep fan is measured in sides. And getting a more powerful fan won't necessarily give you more cooling. If the fan's too strong you'll jjst get blow back as channels for the air won't be able to take the extra pressure. 

So basically just buy cheap fans the right size :-)

Bear in mind that fans really don't pull much power so there's nothing stopping you wiring an extra fan into the same conenctors of an existing one. 
That's what I've done for my replicators.

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## Barbarus

Care to take a picture and show us?  :Smile:  Sounds like an interesting idea...

Could you maybe by any chance tale a look at the file I attached and if it loos OK to you? My Cura has a tendency to fail with Gcode...

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## Adamseye

I printed that cooler first, but I don't like not being able to see the extruder, at least the first layer. I just designed a bracket to hold just a fan with no shroud. My fans should be here later today so I will post a pic of that when completed.

I don't like Cura, and have been using Matter Control instead. From everything I tried, even matching the settings, Matter control will put out nicer prints then cura. It seems to have a much better way of creating the tool path, and it is highly evident in the prints. Biggest separation between them is in a single walled print.

Cura butchers the layers, leaves ugly lines, and even reverses direction in a single walled print. Same file sliced with matter controller prints the bottom layers in anticipation of creating a single spiral wall by building up the edges from 0 to layer height on the perimeter.

Matter control even handles bridging on it's own. Try slicing a bridge test in cura, then in Matter. Matter is going to pick it up and should slow to 20mm on the bridge with out your input. Cura will let you fall flat on your face, when the Z height plugin fails to change speeds or fan settings.

Cura falls short in it's crude toolpath, leaving me to wonder in the person who created the code has ever 3d printed anything. Matter controller on the other hands feels as if it is a wise Jedi, teaching you how to use the force. (as I typed that my freshly finished print cooled a popped from the glass.)

http://www.mattercontrol.com/

I have to get my stems printing I'll be back.

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## Barbarus

Hehe  :Big Grin:  Nice  review!
In the end it should say "Sponsored by MatterControl" (joke)

But it is interesting to see what settings you use. Can you give us a list. Cause what I felt with Cura was that Wanhao wants you to choose pre-installed options for Prusa I3. Now I am not sure how much it differs but it cant be exactly the same so I guess small changes could make the print better. So if you can share your settings in MatterControl - it would be interesting to see!

Thanks for the tip! Will try it this weekend.

PS
Damn, the 3D-print community is really nice and helpful. No one calls you noob just cause you are new to this  :Big Grin:  Thanks for that!

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## Adamseye

From what I remember, was only a month or so ago lol, the stock settings in Matter were giving me the best prints as of that time. Since then I have altered my printer quite a bit, and I haven't quite topped the scales of my upgrades yet. I did a pretty large print at 40mm/s on my outside perimeters and 50mm/s for infill with a 150mm/s move speed. It was two plates plus large, so I got a good test of the dimensional accuracy. http://www.thingiverse.com/make:198660 you can see the results there.

With PLA I am printing anywhere from 200-210 with 60 bed, on glass with purple glue stick. The larger the print the higher the speeds you can go, because each layer takes longer to cool with more on the plate. Like the stem for the apple, I printed three of them at 30mm/s with the fan on high even though I only needed 1. This was to allow the layers to cool, and got to pick the one I wanted too lol. But the apple parts I printed at 50mm/s with an outside perimeter of 40mm/s. I had more to print, so I had less chance of coming back over another layer to soon. I was unsure how the tops would finish, but I left them at the same speeds and I am happy with the results.

The slow settings will work well for large or small prints, but you wont have much luck printing small parts at high speeds. I relate it to welding, I want enough heat to penetrate, but I don't want to warp the material. If you go back over a weld to soon it warps, just like a layer.

I would say if you print the outside perimeters at 20-30mm/s the print should come out clean, as far as the speeds for your infill and such I would relate that to the size of the print and thermal restrictions.

PS Everyone was a noob once!

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## Adamseye

Some settings I can tell you that should help are acceleration settings. These are found under the configuration section in the control panel. I set both x and y to 900 print, and 800 move. Also making sure your are extruding the right amount of filament can make a big difference. I found a formula online, (100mm / extruded amount) * current e steps. This was not that easy for me to do, and I got it to work once kind of.

For me printing a ring with a specific inner and outer dimension and measuring the results made it far easier to dial in my extrusion. As of today I am printing with in .1mm of dimensions inside and out, and not only are the prints more accurate wich is great for making parts. But the walls of the print come out much cleaner versus over extruding. I did however also find out with the ring test that my x and y are off a hair, not moving the same distance gives you a inconsistent circle. I would have never known if I didn't spend all that time calibrating my extrusion with rings. It cleaned up my corners too.

I would also recommend the z axis brace mod found here. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948 Cost me $15 in parts, and a few hours printing. Install was super easy, and this has made a huge difference in my printer. I went crazy the past week or two, swapped out the y carriage for a 3mm one with 3 point leveling. (haven't setup the 3 point yet but plan too) Z axis braces, printed bearing block all around, and a new y axis belt tensioner to allow the use of the new y carriage. New bearings, a few fans, a bunch of zip ties lol! Parts keep showing up at my door, still awaiting a few things lol. I got the bug big times.

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## Koopaloup

I am having issues with print not sticking to the bed.  Any advice,  it sticks for a while then It just comes off.  I am using the printer completely at stock.  I am printing at 45mm per second.  Also any mods you would recommend?

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## Cyber Akuma

What do you have on your bed?

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## wagnmkr

Hello All

I see it has been a while since anyone posted here. I have just purchased one of these printers and so far this thread has been extremely helpful. All the reports of good prints and reasonable reliability is rewarding as trying to chose a first printer is a minefield. 

I get my machine on Friday so we will see what it is like.

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## ralphzoontjens

I heard only good things about the Wanhao printers.
Then with my recent tolerable experiences with Gearbest, I came across this one which is cheap as nuts:
http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-...pp_337314.html

Anyone have experience with this A8 printer with 8"+ heated bed?

Also I would like to switch from Cura to Mattercontrol, but Ultimakers aren't listed as supported printers. Can I use the software anyway? All I need is a gcode file right?

----------


## wagnmkr

That is a cheap price. If the hardware is any good, if nothing else, you would have a box of parts for another project.

I haven't heard of this one but that doesn't mean much. Methinks we are going to see a bunch of machines like this in the near future.

Just for general information, the Wanhao Duplicator I3 Plus is working very well, giving good quality out of the box, and seems to be a very reliable runner so far. Mind you, I only have about twenty printing hours on it.

Tom

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## Ama-fessional Molder

Going to embark on the z-axis brace assembly after dinner I think. Might post pictures.

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## wagnmkr

Make sure that the holes in the bottom corner brackets look like they will fit your machine. I spent 9 hrs printing them only to find that they are not for the I3 plus. I can modify them but it will be a pain.

Also, I just noticed that the feet of the bottom brackets are two different thicknesses. That won't make a level bed. Methinks I will make my own bottom brackets from aluminum.

Tom

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## Ama-fessional Molder

I don't have a plus, so its fine. I did however order 20mm screws instead of 10mm. So I am now waiting yet again until tomorrow.
EDIT: My bottom brackets are all uniform. You might have had a print issue.

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## wagnmkr

There are a few things about the plus that are different so it looks like I will make some of my own mods. Generally though, I am pleased.

I rechecked the feet I printed, and there was some warping which could have caused a problem. I will check that out.

I have dozens of sizes of wee bolts, nuts, and screws ... but I hardly ever have the right size!

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## metoo

I just started the assembly of the PLUS this morning.  Its not as simple as "put a screw there."  I had to remove the bottom brace since the horizontal assmebly would not fit between the flanges of the vertical assembly.  The bottom assembly also rocked, so it needed adjustment.  Once I corrected the rock and installed the vertical assembly, i noticed the vertical assembly is warped.  Now I gotta fix that too.

The rails are leaning to the rails as well.  I saw the guy on Makersmuse on  youtube turn the screws individually to raise the extruder/nozzle which obviously put the rails out of whack, but I never saw him level the rails. Is that something done automatically when you home the machine?

----------


## wagnmkr

I am sorry to hear you have these problems. Was there any damage to the shipping box?

I never had to touch the rails at all.
I did not have to remove the bottom brace and I did only have to put in the supplied screws. Everything was tight and straight, with no rocking. I did have a problem with one cable that got damaged in shipping, but my supplier sent me a replacement by overnight mail that same day. That cable has since been replaced and the machine has many hours on it. All I did was manually level the bed, which took about 15 minutes the first time. And now, it is just like the Energiser Bunny!

I do hope you get it all sorted as it is a pretty good machine in my estimation. Who did you buy it from?

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## wagnmkr

OK, I think I misunderstood you at first but thinking about it now, (and having a glass of wine helped) I might have some answers.

I didn't take that bottom brace off, but I did, manually, move the whole head assembly up, out of the way. I just turned by hand the brass bits on top of the motors until I had clearance for the big metal box to go through the uprights.
Once it was all screwed together, I put a level on the bed, then on the top chrome bar that the head assembly moves on. I manually turned one side or the other to get those bars horizontal. Then I leveled the bed, then I did the head leveling again. As I said in the last post, all in all in took about 15 minutes to get it all done, and I do a bed level every morning before I set the machine to work.

----------


## Ama-fessional Molder

You can print little supports for that job. Just set them under the bars and manually turn them until they are both touching.

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## metoo

> I am sorry to hear you have these problems. Was there any damage to the shipping box?
> 
> I never had to touch the rails at all.
> I did not have to remove the bottom brace and I did only have to put in the supplied screws. Everything was tight and straight, with no rocking. .......Who did you buy it from?


Thera was no real damage to the box other than a couple scrapes.  As for the need to remove the bottom bar, the host of Maker's Muse had to do the same thing in his "unboxing and first test" video of the PLUS.  I thought his frustration was funny because I had the same issue.  I tried to attach pics, but its not working on my phone for some reason.

I bought it directly form Wanhaousa.

---------------------
Update
-----------------------

I was able to straighten everything out and get the bottom brace back on. 5 of the frame screws were not very tight. All seems good.  I leved the X rails and, homed all, and set the z hieght near the .1mm as per the manual.  So far so good.

When I successfully print a small PLA model, I'll seek what I need to do for TPU, as that is what I will be using mostly.

----------


## metoo

The i3 PLUS comes with a single 1-1/4 inch long piece of 4mm x 2mm PTFE tube, but doenst mention what to do with it.  What do I do with it?  Is it to be cut an place between the extruser gear and hot end to help with printing with flexible filament?  Is it for a guide into the top of the extruder?

----------


## wagnmkr

I would have to say that it could be a spare piece. I have one in the parts bag as well. 

Perhaps someone could explain if the machine would print without that piece in place. I really don't know.

----------


## metoo

I know for sure that it is not a requirement.  Ive been printing fine without it.  On that note...LOVE this printer?  Leagues better than my old Davinci 1.0a.  I would attach a pic of my PLA and PETG prints, but I cant seem to do that from my phone.

----------


## wagnmkr

> I know for sure that it is not a requirement.  Ive been printing fine without it.  On that note...LOVE this printer?  Leagues better than my old Davinci 1.0a.



Yes, I like mine a bunch as well ... it seems to be like the energizer bunny ... just keeps on going.

----------


## curious aardvark

guessing it's a spare tube. 
there should be one inside the extruder, at least that's the way my creators extruders are setup.

----------


## robotdigg

Wanhao is from Wenzhou China, right?

----------


## wagnmkr

They are apparently about 250km from Wenzhou ... This is the address on their website ... No.77, West Renming Road, Jinhua, Zhejiang, China

----------


## T_om

Hello folks.  Hope I can get some newbie assistance here.

I just bought a Monoprice Maker Select V2 which, I am told, is a rebranded version of the Wanhow Duplicator.  My problem is trying to set up Cura.

What settings do i use?  I attempted to do a "Custom" printer setup and waded through all the (thousands???) of settings but in the end, Cura does not recognize the printer is even plugged into the USB port.  I can print from the micro card and the test parts included with the printer pre-installed on the card print OK, but I would really like to print from Cura if possible.

Any help would be appreciated.

Tom

----------


## Ama-fessional Molder

I refuse to use my computer to run a print. If the computer updates or shuts down mid-print it's boned.


Just my two cents.

----------


## T_om

Fine, printing from the card is not too terrible.... but Cura setup is kicking my ass.  Any assistance there would be appreciated.

Tom

----------


## Ama-fessional Molder

That would depend on what your specific symptoms are.

I started out with a default profile, which printed ok, and then tweaked one setting at a time to learn how it affects my material.

----------


## Deneteus

Does anybody happen to have the firmware defaults for Marlin firmware for the Duplicator i3 Plus? I am actually looking for optimized versions of the settings beyond Page 25 of the manual.2017-08-26 08_05_35-Octopi [OctoPrint].jpg

2017-08-26 08_05_10-Octopi [OctoPrint].jpg

----------

