# Specific 3D Printers, Scanners, & Hardware > FlashForge Forum >  Explanation for different options under settings menu

## Roob0481

Does anyone have a rundown of the Utilities settings on a FFCP ? Some I've been able to look up some (hope those are right), but a few I'd like to know their purpose. Any info would be much appreciated.
General Settings:  
Extruder Hold     (OFF/ON)Check SD Reads  (OFF/ON)P-Stop Control    (OFF/ON)Serial I/O           (USB/Vart1)

Enable Steppers/Disable Steppers

Thank you for any knowledge able to give.

----------


## Bobbler

Extruder Hold - it keeps the extruder motor from being disabled by command "M103" and is of use for 3MM extruders - source - http://www.makerbot.com/sailfish/releases
Check SD Reads - sounds like it does an error check against what was received - http://jettyfirmware.yolasite.com/v73-v43.php#crc
P-Stop - looks to be so you can add an external trigger to stop the printer via hardware  - http://jettyfirmware.yolasite.com/v74-v44.php#pstop

----------


## curious aardvark

steppers on/off - does exactly what it says. 
If you have the motors on - the carriage will be rigid and you won't be able to move it around by hand. Plus the motors tend to get a bit warm :-) 
With it off, the motors are only on when printing or 'jogging'. So the carriage moves freely and the motors don't get hot.

----------


## Roob0481

> Extruder Hold - it keeps the extruder motor from being disabled by command "M103" and is of use for 3MM extruders - source - http://www.makerbot.com/sailfish/releases
> Check SD Reads - sounds like it does an error check against what was received - http://jettyfirmware.yolasite.com/v73-v43.php#crc
> P-Stop - looks to be so you can add an external trigger to stop the printer via hardware  - http://jettyfirmware.yolasite.com/v74-v44.php#pstop


"steppers on/off - does exactly what it says. 
 If you have the motors on - the carriage will be rigid and you won't be able to move it around by hand. Plus the motors tend to get a bit warm :-) 
 With it off, the motors are only on when printing or 'jogging'. So the carriage moves freely and the motors don't get hot."

Thank you both for taking a little time to drop some knowledge on a fresh rookie.

----------


## Bobbler

No problem Roob, TBH I haven't found a need to change any of the settings I commented on so far - though I do only tend to print right from USB personally and have no need of the other 2 settings that I have found.

----------


## Roob0481

> No problem Roob, TBH I haven't found a need to change any of the settings I commented on so far - though I do only tend to print right from USB personally and have no need of the other 2 settings that I have found.


Same here, I just couldn't take not knowing anymore. Especially if they happened to be something that could've improved prints. Thanks again.

----------


## AmyInNH

Is there any manual that says what all the settings are?  I just got a Creator Pro, my first printer, and am leery about pushing buttons as it doesn't seem to have intuitive behavior.

I ran bed leveling and upon completion ("ok"), much to my surprise, the bed sat there, right under the extruders.  Then I prepared for the test print, the calibration box.  I loaded the filament and as I prepared the sample calibration box gcode and moved the x3g file to the SD card, the filament oozed out and pooled up and around the extruder.

Also, no documentation under ReplicatorG's Help/Offline Documentation.  Would anyone know where this file should be?  The error message on the console says "Could not load offline documentation."

----------


## Roob0481

> Is there any manual that says what all the settings are?  I just got a Creator Pro, my first printer, and am leery about pushing buttons as it doesn't seem to have intuitive behavior.
> 
> I ran bed leveling and upon completion ("ok"), much to my surprise, the bed sat there, right under the extruders.  Then I prepared for the test print, the calibration box.  I loaded the filament and as I prepared the sample calibration box gcode and moved the x3g file to the SD card, the filament oozed out and pooled up and around the extruder.
> 
> Also, no documentation under ReplicatorG's Help/Offline Documentation.  Would anyone know where this file should be?  The error message on the console says "Could not load offline documentation."


When you did the bed leveling was it through Replicator G or did you access directly through the menu on the LCD screen on the printer? I would load filament prior to leveling. I would load filament, level, and then do whatever test print you'd like.

----------


## curious aardvark

yep and don't use rep-g. 
use makerware dektop : http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...-x86-computers

And you should also calibrate the printer with the bed and extruder temp the same as they willl be when printing. All things expand when hot - and while it may only be a tiny amount - we're dealing with 100ths of  a millimetre in 3d printing - so it matters :-)  

Manuals - they would be great. I believe we can blame Apple for the dearth of manuals in current technology. 
They were the first to release gadgets with download only software and no manual. Then Everybody else jumped on the bandwagon. 

The number of times I go to a clients house and they've got  a tablet that's going back to the shop - because they don't have the foggiest idea how to use it and you don't get manuals with them.
Something as simple as an e-manual on the front page with a caption: click me first. 

But alas no. Steve jobs most likely has a new circle of hell dedicated to him where irate customers line up to beat him senseless with old style printed manuals :-)

----------


## AmyInNH

I leveled the bed via the LCD.  If you load the filament first, isn't that going to make one heck of a mess oozing plastic with a paper sliding around underneath it?  And possibly set the paper on fire?

  Now there's a pool of plastic stuck to the extruder.  I take it I'm going to have to lower the bed manually and turn on the extruder's heat to get this off.  And I'll be guessing my way through it with the LCD.  I'd be fine with that if there were no way to damage the machine but the original instructions that came with it, a simple walkthrough, says yes you can damage the machine.

So, how much time do you have between load filament and test print?  Following the original instructions, it said load the filament/turn on the extruder heat, then prep your object for printing.  Not really, if the filament's oozed out and globbed onto the print bed.




> When you did the bed leveling was it through Replicator G or did you access directly through the menu on the LCD screen on the printer? I would load filament prior to leveling. I would load filament, level, and then do whatever test print you'd like.

----------


## AmyInNH

No manuals are coming from two directions.  Steve Jobs' - our icons are (presumed) _so_ intuitive you don't need any manual/overview.  Opensource's - what do you want for free (we don't like to write)?  

Both make for a slow learning curve, easy if you're a teenager with nothing else to do.

----------


## Roob0481

> I leveled the bed via the LCD.  If you load the filament first, isn't that going to make one heck of a mess oozing plastic with a paper sliding around underneath it?  And possibly set the paper on fire?
> 
>   Now there's a pool of plastic stuck to the extruder.  I take it I'm going to have to lower the bed manually and turn on the extruder's heat to get this off.  And I'll be guessing my way through it with the LCD.  I'd be fine with that if there were no way to damage the machine but the original instructions that came with it, a simple walkthrough, says yes you can damage the machine.
> 
> So, how much time do you have between load filament and test print?  Following the original instructions, it said load the filament/turn on the extruder heat, then prep your object for printing.  Not really, if the filament's oozed out and globbed onto the print bed.


Ok there are two ways you can move your bed without having to touch it. 1.) LCD Menu on actual printer --> "Utilities" --> Then scroll down until you see then select "Jog Mode" --> hit Right direction arrow twice, your screen should read as follows:   

    Jog mode
        Z-
<-Y (Back)
         Z+

At this screen you should be able to lower and raise your bed using the up and down direction buttons on printer. 

2.) The alternative way includes Replicator G if you choose to use it: The top tool bar in RepG there should be the "Control Panel" button it has 4 arrows pointing in the basic directions (up, down, left, and right). This well take you to the control panel. Under "Jog Mode" make sure the drop box is set on "continuous jog" and then use the Blue Up and Down arrows that control the Z axis to move your bed. I apologize for not posting pics, for whatever reason it wouldn't upload any I tried. I'll work on your next question and get back to you.

----------


## AmyInNH

Thanks, I used your LCD instructions to bring the bed down and then turned on the extruder heat to clear away glob.  Being as I'd just leveled the bed before shutting it down yesterday, I thought it was good to go and kicked off the SD's left calibration model.  HOLY MOLY.  The extruder gouged up the brand spankin new blue mat on the bed.  Does this mean you have to level the bed every time you turn it on?

  Destructo




> Ok there are two ways you can move your bed without having to touch it. 1.) LCD Menu on actual printer --> "Utilities" --> Then scroll down until you see then select "Jog Mode" --> hit Right direction arrow twice, your screen should read as follows:   
> 
>     Jog mode
>         Z-
> <-Y (Back)
>          Z+
> 
> At this screen you should be able to lower and raise your bed using the up and down direction buttons on printer. 
> 
> 2.) The alternative way includes Replicator G if you choose to use it: The top tool bar in RepG there should be the "Control Panel" button it has 4 arrows pointing in the basic directions (up, down, left, and right). This well take you to the control panel. Under "Jog Mode" make sure the drop box is set on "continuous jog" and then use the Blue Up and Down arrows that control the Z axis to move your bed. I apologize for not posting pics, for whatever reason it wouldn't upload any I tried. I'll work on your next question and get back to you.

----------


## Roob0481

> Thanks, I used your LCD instructions to bring the bed down and then turned on the extruder heat to clear away glob.  Being as I'd just leveled the bed before shutting it down yesterday, I thought it was good to go and kicked off the SD's left calibration model.  HOLY MOLY.  The extruder gouged up the brand spankin new blue mat on the bed.  Does this mean you have to level the bed every time you turn it on?
> 
>   Destructo


Senorita Destructo, it isn't necessary to level the bed every time you turn it on. People have different customs, rituals, and routines they swear by, to each their own and all that. I honestly just level mine every few prints. Sometimes I'll just get eye level w/it and check by look, sometimes I just randomly choose to level it to be safe, and sometimes you may start a print and can tell that sucker needs to be level when your bead isn't sticking or looks off. As far as removing globs, I think it's good practice to heat the nozzle to remove them, but plenty of time I've just scraped or pulled them off. I will recommend that you get a paint scraper tool, nothing fancy. Just something to help remove your prints from the bed once they're complete. Make it easier on yourself, less chance of damaging your prints, and you can use it to carefully scrape or knock off any globs. I too am still a beginner, but don't worry your glob rate will go down. As far as the bed gouge, I feel your pain, I have a nice clean point dead in the center of mine from my bed leveling learning days. Once your filament is loaded and you know what you're going to test print or print, go ahead and start preheating the printer while your software of choice preps the file. Way to hang in there, you'll be slanging plastic in no time.

----------


## Roob0481

WP_20150619_002[1].jpgQuick pic of paint scraper that'll get the job done. Just a few bucks.

----------


## AmyInNH

Thanks for your advice.  I'll try releveling the bed and starting the calibration print again.  
Good timing, my paint scrapers have been in hand most of this week, ripping out and replacing window subsills and painting window exterior trim.  At some point I thought, 3D print caps for them but I ran into someone's post, I think possibly Geoff's, posting solar tolerance testing of ABS and PLA and they're not too color stable in persistent sun.




> WP_20150619_002[1].jpgQuick pic of paint scraper that'll get the job done. Just a few bucks.

----------


## Roob0481

> Thanks for your advice.  I'll try releveling the bed and starting the calibration print again.  
> Good timing, my paint scrapers have been in hand most of this week, ripping out and replacing window subsills and painting window exterior trim.  At some point I thought, 3D print caps for them but I ran into someone's post, I think possibly Geoff's, posting solar tolerance testing of ABS and PLA and they're not too color stable in persistent sun.


Excellent knowledge to pass on.

----------


## curious aardvark

okay couple of tips. 
load the filament and keep the heat on (preheat) keep pulling the oozing filament from the nozzle. after a minute or two it stops oozing. That's when you calibrate.  Keeps things pretty clean.
If you have delicate skin (I don't have a problem with my fingers and fully heated nozzles - I suspect most people will) use a piece of kitchen paper to pull the plastic from the nozzle. In fact it's a good idea to keep a roll on hand anyway for handling any heated parts. 

I pretty much only calibrate if I'm getting adhesion issues or changing filament type and hence changing the bed temp. Otherwise it's probably only once every couple of weeks, if that :-) 

Only takes a  minute, once you've done a few, anyway. 

Get the thinnest scraper you can. cheap flexi putty scrapers are about the best. Mine are just 0.2 mm thick. So can get under most prints.  Got 4 in different sizes from a pound shop :-)  http://www.amazon.co.uk/Quality-flex...=putty+scraper
Buck stores and amazon are your friend. 

Levelling the bed - I use 90gsm paper. That gives a pretty tight calibration. Anything much thicker than that and youi'll probably start to have issues. 

Have Patience. 
home 3d printing is a slow process. Don't try to rush it :-)

----------


## AmyInNH

Don't rush it!?!?!  Too much homework on learning object modeling and various software and now I'm raring to go!  This whole 3d printing venture is to make something I need for sewing.  If it goes well, I'll make it for a lot of other people.  In the mean time,

Tang, Amazon support extraordinaire, said my z axis screws were loose (as my mother's always said) and causing binding and wobbling and I needed a shim under the z stop, so I could have more room for bed leveling.  Both have greatly improved operations.  My mat, on the bed platform, is all gouged up from the extruders grinding into when it had z issues so I'm hoping he'll send me info on the best way to peel it off and replace it with one of the spares that came with it.  I ran a perimeter calibration object and had to adjust the bed while it was still hot else it was lopsided.

I printed two planes and since that went okay I'm doing a set of magnetic nested measuring spoons, one white ABS to test drive the left extruder and one red ABS to test the right extruder.  I'm using the back of the bed to avoid the gouged area in the mean time and too impatient for cooling before getting them off the bed so I'm using my wood chisel.  Gives the plane wings a nice little lift at the wing tips but think it'd be better if I just wait for cooling for the measuring spoons.  The measuring spoons look beautiful so far.  I didn't expect the printer to work this well this soon.

  Thanks for the link.  Took me a few minutes to understand pound shop.  They say they don't ship to the US so  I'll find something similar in Amazon. 
  Thanks for the reminder to keep something handy when reaching in.  Even with all the flaming warning stickers stuck all over it, I've reached in and burnt my fingers already.

first print a plane.jpg spoon print in progress (1).jpg

----------


## Roob0481

> hoping he'll send me info on the best way to peel it off and replace it


If you do get the inside scoop on the blue mat removal, could you spread the wealth on that? I've been wondering about the same thing lately. Your prints are looking marvelous and on point.

----------


## Elpulpo

Couple of thoughts, guys...

I'm pretty sure you don't need to have a hot nozzle and bed for levelling. That really just makes a fiddly job more fiddly. Of course, there's thermal expansion to consider but you're making sure your bed is level. Not setting your first-layer height. I usually level cold-ish - Don't really worry too much about the temperature but then run a print with a nice long perimeter and adjust each of the screws equally by very small increments* until I get the right bead appearance and the same width of bead across the whole plate. Works for me and no burned fingers. :-)

*  Small increments: M3 thread pitch is 0.6mm, so every time you screw your wing nut one complete revolution, that's 0.6mm. So 100uM ( 0.1mm ) is 60 degrees, or about 5mm for one tip of your wing nut to go round. 1mm is equivalent to about 20uM. Just do it a touch at a time and it'll work fine. The process of changing the screws by minute increments while you watch the bead change will allow you to "become one" with your printer. :-)

Removing the BuildTak mat: DO IT COLD!! Whatever you do, make sure your build plate is stone cold, or else the BuildTak surface will come off and leave the adhesive! If this happens to you, as it did with me, Isopropyl Alcohol will dissolve it but there's loads of it and by the time you've finished, you'll have used half a pint and be feeling just a tad light-headed from the fumes! Added to that, you'll use another half pint cleaning the sticky gak off your hands.

Next time I brace myself to replace my BuildTak surface, I'll peel one of the side edges up maybe half an inch and bend it over itself, then find something to wind it onto, as it peels away from the plate. Does that make sense? No? Think sardine tin. :-)  Not sure if it'll work but it's gotta be better than sticky gak fingers and woozy head.

Cheers,

AndyL

----------


## AmyInNH

I found I was releveling with hot extruders because even a little plastic left in a cold extruder means one is level and the other is not.  Doh!
FlashForge support said their users are reporting it's easier to get off when the platform's warm/hot.  I suspect it's a nightmare either way.

----------


## AmyInNH

With the bed warm, I peeled it back.  I should've had wax paper handy so it doesn't restick when you let up on the pulling even for a second.  I peeled from each corner inward, as a straight across pull was talking a lot of effort.  Then I cleaned the surface with GooGone.  And used a straight razor held really flat to scrape off the glue while it was soft from the GooGone.  What a job, took quite a long time.
I emailed 3M, who makes the mat, asking if they had tips for next time.  They said they don't have something specific if I don't have the 3M product number but this is what they sent (#8 is toxic chemicals):

There are eight methods that can be tried for adhesive removal:  
1) Soaking the area liberally with water may soften the adhesive if it was put on the surface within a day or two. The adhesive will turn white and become stringy and fairly easy to remove. (You may need to keep a sponge or wet towel over the area, to prevent the water from evaporating during the 24-48 hour period.)  
If the tape has been on the surface for long periods of time and, or, exposed to sunlight, and heat, first try peanut oil (see Item #2 below).  
2) Put some peanut oil on a soft cloth and rub over the adhesive area; let it soak for a few minutes. The oil will lay down a film alongside the adhesive, so that when the adhesive moves it will not re-adhere to that area. In addition, the area of adhesive exposed to the oil will become de-tackified. Keep rubbing in a circular motion until the adhesive rolls up into a ball for removal. Follow up with soap and water to remove the oily residue.  
3) A concentrated citrus solvent like "Goo Gone", available at most Department, Hardware, and Grocery Stores, has been known to work for removing adhesives also. Follow the same procedure as the peanut oil.  
4) To remove adhesive from a washable surface: Cover adhesive with a cloth or sponge saturated with warm vinegar and let stand. When the adhesive is saturated, it may peel off without scraping or causing damage. Rinse. (Note: Use this method only on washable surfaces and washable paint.)  
5) Hand cleaners like DL, Fast Orange, GoJo, or Goop, usually in an auto department, can be effective in softening and removing adhesives. . Spread them on, wait 10-20 minutes. Wipe away any softened adhesive; carefully scrape surface with a hard plastic sraper, or flat piece of wood. Repeat, if necessary.  
6) Adhesive and paint removers, such as "Goof Off" and "Oops", can soften many adhesives. However, these materials are flammable, have health issues, and can damage certain surfaces; it is the customer's responsibility to read and follow all directions and precautions, and to determine if these materials will damage their particular surface.  
7) Heptane, toluene, and MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) are solvents that will soften some adhesives into a soft, gooey state and, by continually rubbing over the area, the adhesive will ball up and can be removed. However, the solvent could damage your surface; test in an inconspicuous area to assess whether this method is satisfactory, before proceeding. These solvents are flammable and have associated health issues; the customer is responsible for reading and following all directions and precautions.  
8) Some adhesives will not respond to any of the above methods, in which case you may have to resort to using a razor-blade scraper. However, the razor-blade scraper could damage your surface; test in an inconspicuous area to assess whether this method is satisfactory, before proceeding.   
To accomplish adhesive removal and minimize damage to painted surfaces, it is recommended that the least aggressive compounds are tested against the residue in an inconspicuous area.  The mechanics of adhesive removal dictate that the adhesive must be "softened" to the point where it may be lifted from the surface.  For that reason, it is recommended that a very loose weave cloth be used in lieu of paper toweling.  The reason for this is that the adhesive can "imbed" itself into the "nap" or weave of the cloth verses "smearing" it around on the surface when attempting to use paper toweling.  Cheesecloth is excellent for this purpose. 
I have also found that WD-40 works well to remove adhesive residue."

----------

