# Specific 3D Printers, Scanners, & Hardware > RepRap Format Printer Forum >  How to build super cheap RepRap?

## ToyMakerRon

Guys, I'm looking to build a capable 3D Printer with the least amount of money possible.  Does anyone that has built a RepRap have any advice for me?  I am pretty good at putting things together, and am an electrical engineer.  What would be the best way to get started and get cheap parts that work well?

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## JohnA136

Ron, as an electrical engineer, you must realize that you get what you pay for?  How big a print volume do you want? Do you want to be limited to just printing PLA or do you want to be able to print PLA, ABS and other filaments? How long do you want your printer to last?  We have evolved from plastic bushings to linear bearings,  printing on acrylic build plates to heated, borosilicate glass, and from DC motors to better extruders and steppers, metal frames rather than laser cut plywood. Are you looking to build a toy or something that will print thousands of hours without falling apart?

On the face of it, your question seems simple but for those of us who have evolved along with the development of the present state of 3D Printers, it is not that easy to answer?  If I were pressed for a recommendation, I would go with a Prusa i3 at the current time. It prints great and can be built for under $500.00 if you don't mind Chinese parts.

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## Aaron

Agreed. The Prusa i3 is a good value. I like the simple design of some components. Makerfarm sells a pre-sourced kit for around $600. I would recommend buying that instead of trying to source every part individually.

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## old man emu

ToyMakerRon,

How long before you want to start printing? If you want to get up and running by the end of January, then I suggest that you purchase a Prusa i3 kit from a reliable maker like MakerFarm who can have your printer kit at your door within 14 days. (Mine took 10 days from dispatch in Utah to local Post Office in Australia).

A kit from a reputable manufacturer comes with comprehensible assembly instructions (not in Chinglish), and depending on the manufacturer, good back up. (I've got a MakerFarm Prusa i3 8" printer, and have had fantastic aftersales service and technical backup from the manufacturer.)

It might seem that I'm pushing the MakerFarm, but having already gone through the process of making a DIY CNC machine a few years ago, I know how frustrating it is to be trying to make something like this and not having good backup. Also, a full kit from a reputable manufacturer will come with every part you require. No need to research requirements and source parts from all over the place. You only need to supply the time and tools. (I must admit that MakerFarm does not include the piece of glass to cover the heatbed [buy a cheap photo frame from Walmart or a $2 shop], but that's only because of the risk of its breaking during transport.

You will also need a power supply. That can be obtained from an old computer, but make sure that the 12V output is more than 16 amps.

Old Man Emu

After you have gained some experience with your store-bought printer, you will see ways to improve the design, or make a bigger one. That's when you start the DIY.

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## KDog

Plenty of folks have built their first printer without a kit.  The SmartRap, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:177256 , is a very good example of a bare-bones RepRap.  I can't really think of a more basic printer.  It's inspired by the Printrbot line of printers.  A Printrbot Simple will run you $300.  You do get what you pay for as these printers will be a bit more of a challenge than a more expensive model.  Printrbot has one of the best support forums I know of.  I'm not sure I would recommend the simple as a first printer though.  The Printrbot Jr. is an excellent printer but it will run you double what the simple will.

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## ToyMakerRon

I don't need a huge print volume.  Mainly I'm looking to make toys for my toy shop.  I really want to start with a RepRap so I can continuously upgrade it as need be.  I would like to gradually build up my warehouse to have 5-10 of these printers going at once.  There are so many great toys I can print to sell in my shop.
Ron

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## TopThiniverse

Ron, I'm thinking the RepRap would be the best printer for you then.  Which model are you considering?

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## Kingoddball

I just finished (twice?) building an i3 on the cheap, kind of.

_(ignoring P&P for all)

_Wooden Frame = $50 then upgraded to Composite + Printed parts $170ish
5 Steppers = $100
Frame Rods = $30
Printed Parts = $80 eBay (IF you don't have parts, or anywhere to source)
Micro-controller = $100 > $150 with pololu's. (*Sanguino* cheapest) - [RAMPS + pololu = $200ish]
Extruder = $50
Heat Bed = $25
GT2 Belts = $20
Bearings = $10>$20 (I got lots spare)
Cable Kit = $20
ZipTies = $15. Get these!! 
Fans = $10
End Stops = $20 (Or $1 ea if you use REALLY cheap ones)
Hobbed Bolt or Hyena = $10

As a few above mentioned, it's around $500 up.
I built mine on the cheap (originally), but was not happy with the quality, so redesigned and when with a composite alloy frame, single extruder (from dual) and a few other tweaks.

I'm sure there are more parts you need, but mostly all listed above.
I paid much more when I include shipping to Australia  :Frown:

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## ScharkAlvin

I'm starting with the repstrap route.  My design is based on the Prusa/Mendal sorta kinda in that the Y axis is the bed moving front/back, X axis is on a liftable gantry which is the Z axis.
Two stepper motors for the Z axis which I'll probably wire in series because they are 2.7v 1.8A units.  I got a good deal on NEMA23 steppers at $5 each at a ham flea market.
I'm going to use 14" long ball bearing drawer slides as the linear rails, giving me a useful travel of 7".  So my build size will be about 7x7x7.  The frame will be built from steel and aluminum angle iron and threaded rod.  Since
the HW is coming from HomeDepot, I'm calling this the "DepotStrap".  I bought a J-Head hot end kit for $17  on ebay, as well as a RAMPS for $17 and a set of four stepper boards for $25.  I already had an Arduino Mega.
I also already have a 12v 10A power supply I can use.  So far it looks like my cost is close to $250, but I still have to buy a spool of filament, so it will be closer to $300 before I'm done.

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