# Specific 3D Printers, Scanners, & Hardware > FlashForge Forum >  Simplify3D with FlashForge

## tigerprinter

I'm curious--are any of you guys using Simplify3D as your slicer with a FlashForge printer?  I'm looking to switch slicers since Makerbot Desktop has been giving me serious problems, and I want to know if Simplify3D is really worth the $125 price tag.  If any of you have used it and could give some feedback/comparison to other free options that would be awesome.

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## ssayer

It's $149. I'm using it with my FF Creator Pro clone (Powerspec 3D Pro). For me, it's worth it. YMMV. (Obviously I have no affiliation with S3D).  :Stick Out Tongue:

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## jfkansas

Yep, just get it and you will understand. :-)

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## jimc

Yeah there are tons of ff owners using it.

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## catalyst

I must be alone, but I haven't found it to be *that* much better than using RepG. It has more of a GUI interface, which is nice, and its prettier, but my prints come out about the same.

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## tigerprinter

As a follow-up, has anyone encountered any notable bugs in any of the software they've used?

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## jimc

There are always some little quirks. Not anywhere near as many as you would be led to believe by reading on the internet. Many of them are just from people that dont fully know how to use the software or havent made it past that 3d printing learning curve. Its not perfect though either. None of the slicers are

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## tigerprinter

Okay.  I only ask because my Makerbot Desktop has a catastrophic bug that is causing my printer to get reeeally screwed up if I make any modifications to the part in the slicer.  As in, once I import the .stl into Makerbot I have to export exactly that to .x3g--even if I do something simple like move the part to a different area on the print bed, somehow the .x3g file gets really messed up and causes my printer to go haywire.  I'm just trying to avoid spending $150 only to find out I get the same problem with S3D.

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## LakeDuck

I use S3D for most all of my PLA prints,  I have had alot of issues with ABS prints.  I am trying to figure out what I am doing incorrectly,  usually I will get all sorts of delam and stringy near the bottom of the print where the raft and the bottom layer are connected. I even switched over to Makerware for a try with the default settings I got a better print but still not very good.

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## jimc

tiger, give it a try. you have 2 weeks to get a refund if you dont like it.

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## lucidpsykosis

I struggled a little with FlashPrint, then found out S3D worked with a Dreamer...Its changed things for me DRAMATICALLY.  Being able to control so many different aspects of your print process is incredible.  I just need to learn the settings a little better.

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## rforeman

> I struggled a little with FlashPrint, then found out S3D worked with a Dreamer...Its changed things for me DRAMATICALLY.  Being able to control so many different aspects of your print process is incredible.  I just need to learn the settings a little better.


Are you able to connect to the Dreamer with S3d using wireless?

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## SpragClutch

As of right now, you cannot connect S3d to the Dreamer wireless.  But, you could use S3d to make the G File, then use FlashPrint to send it to the printer through Wi Fi.

I have been using S3d for a couple of days, and although I can see the benefits it offers, I'm disappointed.  The Infill options stink.  They offer no Hex or other strong infill option.  So you cannot make parts that have strength.  There are ways to get a somewhat strong infill, but you have to jerry rig the settings for it to work.  And I don't think you should have to jerry rig when you pay 150 dollars for something.

So, right now I'm thinking seeing what else is out there.

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## jfkansas

There is really nothing "jerry rigging" about adding an extra angle to the infill for strength if needed. I run mine at 15%-20%  0, 90, 45 and -45. As strong as any Hexagonal infill and way less wear and tear on machine from zig zagging back and forth for the hex shape. It prints a little faster also since the printers acceleration doesn't slow the infill down from all the short moves.  

That said the hex looks cool, but you never really see it when the part is done.

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## N5QM

Those of you who use S3D, do you notice a difference in print quality?  I am a n00b and all of the slic3r settings are a bit overwhelming.

I am getting decent prints, but I want to squeeze all I can out of the printer.

Robert

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## jfkansas

Most slicers that have good filament density calibrations done should print relatively similar. The slicer tells the tool head where to go and how much and when to lay down material. The printer interprets these commands and executes them.

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## ssayer

As my answer, let me give it a qualified yes. I say that because just selecting your printer and having it print didn't just do it. Tweaking the settings with S3D for my particular printer did. Learning settings (whatever your slicer), is just something that you have to do...

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## jimc

nothing jerry rigged about the infill at all. the infill can be crazy strong and solid. just like in anything 3d printing you need to know the settings and have everything set up right.

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## thevaporhouse

I am two weeks into my 3D printing world. 
I use S3D and as others have stated the settings are very overwhelming. I understand there are little pop up windows as you hover over something but, being fresh to this market and style of printing, some of the wording just doesnt make sense to me. 

Is there some where on the interweb a break down of the controls in S3D that have a little more detail? Its hard to learn something if you have all of these windows and options..you change one thing but unless you know what your looking for you really have no idea to know if it is working , helping, or hurting you.

Thanks in Advance

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## Zippets

i found a TIP the other day and i tried it out and it worked awesome

in the past i hated the groves look of the outer top surface the side always looked great i wanted the top to look like the sides 

so i found this tip 
the guy said the the Nozzle DIA. does not mean what Nozzle do you have in the printer 
that it means the same as layer height but in the horizontal plane i tried this and i got awesome results 

I just wanted to share this with every one

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## SpragClutch

Well, I'm going to try and get my money back.  I like all the options S3D gives you.  But it is not worth 150 dollars.  This is my 2 cents

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## curious aardvark

it depends what you're printing and what you want. 

s3d has some really cool features. The multiple process approach is great. You can print different infill and resolutions into a single model. so for a big model that just needs fast 0.3mm bulk printing for the majority and then needs 0.2 or 0.1 for a small detailed area. s3d is the ONLY slicer that will let you do that. 
It slices very very fast. 

It prints under and over hangs much better than most slicers, so - yes you do get better quality prints. 

The only bugbear for me is the infill: it's piss weak. It simply won't print a solid infill. Even on the lowest setting it only prints alternate layers. So things snap laterally realy really easily. 

At the moment I use s3d for most things. But for anything that requires strength I have to use makerware. 
Which is pretty good, but nowhere near as good for over & under hangs. 

Any complex model goes through s3d 'cos it slices about 20x faster than makerware. 

I like it, it's not finished yet. Still needs dual extrusion sorting and infill. But if you want to manipulate layer and infill within a single model - it's the only slicer that will let you. 

Is it worth the money, for me - yes. Or at least it will be when they sort out the multiple extrusion and infill.

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## SpragClutch

curious aardvark nailed it.  As soon as they get decent infill options and dual extrusion sorting figured out.  It would be worth it in my opinion.

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## beerdart

Dual extrusion work fine..

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## SpragClutch

Either way.  They offer a 14 day return policy.  So if your on the fence and don't know if it is worth it.  You can put down the money and try it out, and if you decide that you don't want it in 14 days, they will let you return it.  Their customer service is good.  Quick and fast.  They let me return mine without any hassle.

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## tigerprinter

> They let me return mine without any hassle.


Out of curiosity, why did you return it?

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## jimc

i dont know why you guys are having infill problems. you should not be able to break your infill at all. it should print thick and completely solid if your are set right.

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## Bassna

> i dont know why you guys are having infill problems. you should not be able to break your infill at all. it should print thick and completely solid if your are set right.


I agree, I posted this on other part's of the board, but here it is again. Not my image but same result's with 200% infill and 30% outline overlap in infill settings... 

Nice strong part's.

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## SpragClutch

That's my point.  When you pay 150 dollars, you should not have to play around with different Infill extrusion widths and outline overlap settings to get a strong solid infill.  You should just be able to select Hex / Honeycomb and be done with it.  Not waste time and material trying to figure out the correct extrusion widths and overlap settings for each material and printer you use.  Its cool that there is a back door to the lack of infill features in S3D.  But in my opinion, there should be more infill features in S3D.  

@tigerprinter, I returned it because I did not feel like S3D was worth the 150.00 as it is right now.  The lack of Infill features was one of the main reasons.  Other then that, it seemed to be a decent slicer.

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## jfkansas

> I agree, I posted this on other part's of the board, but here it is again. Not my image but same result's with 200% infill and 30% outline overlap in infill settings... 
> 
> Nice strong part's.


Want strong, try those settings but do it at 10-15% and 45, -45, 0, 90.

Makerware or any other slicer can't touch this type of functionality.

Sprag, you don't have to test this with all the materials. Once you get an infill you like you just save it and use it for all the filaments. It is just infill and isn't seen. Linear infill prints about 2x as fast also since acceleration doesn't come into play.

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## Bassna

@Sprag I agree that the infill should be set up just a tad different for default. But it was also something I had read and knew about before I even made the purchase, so I had changed it right away. They have a pretty good forum with people sharing great settings and information. But I don't think it is anywhere near a reason to not buy the software or use it. It has saved me so much time, just in slicing time's. It's really nice to be able to set everything, see the print preview, and not have to wait a hour to re-slice if I want to change 1 small setting. Then everything else on top of it that I like. 

@Jfkansas I tried the 45, -45, 0, 90, but I dont think it made near as good of a solidness on the infill. It was too many layers in between I guess is how you would put it. It would do one at 45, and not another 45 for 3 more layers, which left a gap. Almost more sponge like. Maybe I had a setting wrong?

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## rforeman

I am looking at getting a FF Creator Pro or Dreamer(Just not sure which one yet). I was wanting know if you have full control and features in Simpify3d and does the live preview work on ether printer?

Thanks

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## jfkansas

Get the pro, I watched a vid of what you have to go through to fix a filament jam in the Dreamer and it is quite the process. I can get to where I can fix a jam in mine in about a minute. It helps with my custom print head because of less parts, but even stock it is easier than on the dreamer. 

To use Simplify3d in the Dreamers flash print you have to take the Gcode from S3d and import it into Flash print. With the Pro you load the .x3g file on the SD card and put in the machine and print.

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## jfkansas

I did my first Dual process print in S3d. It is a must have in some situations. I used it because I needed custom 80% support very close to the build plate due to some details that need to print perfect, then after it gets past a certain point my infill on the support goes back down to 10% until it reaches the top at about 50mm. Cool stuff. Well worth the money for this type of functionality.

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## curious aardvark

yeah the pro is the better machine. 
Less to go wrong and all the right upgrades. 

I'm not sure why you'd want wireless when you need to be there for every print start anyway. 

Guess you could use  a tablet or phone with wireless. 

I've been trying to get a wireless sd card to work in my creator. The cards are great, the software that acesses the cards is absolutely shite. 

You can access the card while it's in the machine, that works fine. But you can't leave the wireless in the card switched on all the time (even though it's powered by the sd slot)  and you can't add files to the card. 
I mean it wouldn't have been much use even if I could add files to it wirelessly, just bought the card to experiment :-)

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## SpragClutch

Ok, I gave S3D another try.  And after trying some things what others have mentioned.  I'm beginning to think S3D is pretty good.  Thanks guys for pointing out my mishaps and misinterpretations.

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## Bassna

> Ok, I gave S3D another try.  And after trying some things what others have mentioned.  I'm beginning to think S3D is pretty good.  Thanks guys for pointing out my mishaps and misinterpretations.


Another pretty cool feature I just learned that's new is, say you have to use a lot of support. You can make it print a very light support up until about 5 layers (custom) and then start making it print say, 75% support, to make a nice flat layer to build the bottom of your object on. Here is a pic from their update.

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## Bassna

It's not letting me edit my post for some reason, but I made a picture for ya to better understand what I meant.


Just using 75% as an example, I have not got to mess with it too much yet myself

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## jfkansas

Yep, that was just added in the last month or so. I usually print at 10 support, 0, 45, 90. Then do 3 layers of 80%









> Another pretty cool feature I just learned that's new is, say you have to use a lot of support. You can make it print a very light support up until about 5 layers (custom) and then start making it print say, 75% support, to make a nice flat layer to build the bottom of your object on. Here is a pic from their update.

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## curious aardvark

so you'd use support on that arch ?

Just curious what sort of surface it'd leave whe you removed the support. So far I pretty much design for printing without support and avoid things that use it. 

I've printed a few downloaded designs with supports and they've all been a real pita to remove, generally find that printing the same thing without support gives either  a better finish or one that just needs a few seconds with some sanding to improve on the surface left by the support.

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## curious aardvark

ps and can someone show me a picture of solid infill from s3d ? 
Still can't get it and it still has almost zero strength for things attached to flat surfaces, they just snap off with almost no effort.
This is because the only thing holding them on is the shell, the infill just adds a little comression strength, but bugger all else.

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## Bassna

> Yep, that was just added in the last month or so. I usually print at 10 support, 0, 45, 90. Then do 3 layers of 80%


After some testing on this light cover I have been making a bunch of, I think anything over 1 "dense layer" would be overkill. I tried one with 5 layers at 80%, and it was quite hard to get the support removed, and watching it print the first layer of the dense layers, it printed just fine and flat. So I printed another with 1 dense layer, 75%, and it worked great. Still a little rough to get all the support off, but maybe some more testing.

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## jfkansas

Ya, increase your upper separation layers to 1 or 2.  Not sure where you have that at, and horizontal separation is good at .25.

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## SpragClutch

> ps and can someone show me a picture of solid infill from s3d ? 
> Still can't get it and it still has almost zero strength for things attached to flat surfaces, they just snap off with almost no effort.
> This is because the only thing holding them on is the shell, the infill just adds a little comression strength, but bugger all else.


This is with 250% infill extrusion width and 40% outline Overlap.  20% Interior Fill.  It is very solid.  Its 1 inch by 1 inch.

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## curious aardvark

Ah so you have to make the infill much wider so it actually sticks to the layer below. 

Okay I'll try that. 
Cheers :-)

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## jimc

caa, yes thie infill extrusion width setting is more like infill extrusion multiplier. it increases the flow rate on the infill so it bonds with the layer below

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## curious aardvark

makes sense, I'll definitely try it.

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## jfkansas

Solid infill isn't anything but full layer on top of full layer at whatever angles you define.

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## Bassna

> Solid infill isn't anything but full layer on top of full layer at whatever angles you define.


Say I use like 10% infill on something, but I want it to have clean bottom layers (like the new infill dense support options) would my only option be to increase the bottom solid layers?

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## jfkansas

On one product I make I have bottom solids set to 6 because the bottom is flat and 1.2mm I don't want it to do 2 layers then try do do some infill, then solid layers again. For other products I am usually at 2 or 3 for solid bottom layers, maybe 4 if I am doing my infill at 4 angles. 

Dense support just affects supports, it doesn't have anything to do with infill on the actual object.

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## Bassna

> On one product I make I have bottom solids set to 6 because the bottom is flat and 1.2mm I don't want it to do 2 layers then try do do some infill, then solid layers again. For other products I am usually at 2 or 3 for solid bottom layers, maybe 4 if I am doing my infill at 4 angles. 
> 
> Dense support just affects supports, it doesn't have anything to do with infill on the actual object.


Yeah I know, but I meant how you can set it so it print's out a nice flat layer at the top of the support, right before it starts printing on the support. To give it a nice bottom layer of your print that is going on the support. I was hoping for a way to do that with infill, as well. (Say 10% infill, but switch to 75% infill 1 or 2 layers before it starting printing the first bottom layer.)

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## jfkansas

Just set the solid top layers to 3-4. It will smooth out as it builds up layers. Or if you want set up 2 processes, increase the infill for the last 6 layers to like 75%. Then it will print 3 75% layers then 3 solid top layers.

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## jimc

haha yeah bass, isnt that the same as just bumping your top layers up 1 or 2 more than what your currently have them set to?

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## propwash

wow  im new to 3d printing like a week but didnt like rep g so i bought simplify last night .. holy cow its almost like point and shoot i couldnot get over hangs to work in rep g . right outta the box simplify had my over hangs fixed with supports. 7 prints to date and its working on 8 atm with no hicupps. Acetone misting works awsome for a clean finish.cant wait for dual extrusion.....

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## ncamp

I bought it yesterday.  The slicing is so much faster than anything else I used.

Do have one issue.  I'm sure there is a checkbox to keep the bed temperature at set point, but I can't find it.  In the FFF settings on the Temperature tab, it has a per layer temp setpoint.  The default has layer 1 and 110.  Does it only use that setpoint for the first layer?  I'm printing abs by the way.

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## SpragClutch

It will set the temp to 110 starting with layer 1 and hold it until a new rule tells it to change or if there is no other rules, it will hold that temp until the print is done.  With S3D, you can change the bed temp with different layers.  So lets say you want to start out with a hotter bed temp of 115.  But after layer 3 you want to bump down the temp to 110.  To do this you would have two settings.  First you will have a setting that says, "at layer 1, temp will be set to 115".  The second setting will be "at layer 3, temp will be changed to 110".

Basically, when it says "layer"  That just says when that temp. setting will start.  It does not mean that the temp. is only for that layer.

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## 34Ford

What would be the cause of spider webs when the head stops extruding and moves to another location?
They even show in the preview.

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## jfkansas

S3d just shows travel moves if you have that checked to show. One thing you can try is turn on coasting, just use the default value. This tells the extruder to stop pushing plastic a little sooner. The hot end builds up pressure and it doesn't stop extruding at the exact moment the stepper stops moving filament. You could also have the filament too hot, that can string since the filament doesn't harden fast enough.

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## 34Ford

I have always run my pla at 220 with replicatorG and never had a problem.  I will try the coasting. I see it is default at .20mm.

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## jfkansas

Ya, 220 might be high for pla. Try it at 200 and see if it flows ok with no extruder clicking. Ya the default coast is .2mm. In the preview you will see these as little dips in the outer surface.

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## curious aardvark

you can also increase the filament retraction when travelling. I tend to have mine set to 3mm, the default is 1. 

Also different filaments will produce different levels of webbing.

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## jfkansas

I'm generally pretty happy with the stock retraction settings. Gotta be careful with retraction since it can pull molten filament up into the Liner and it can harden in there and jam up. 3mm probably is ok though. Longer retractions work better where there is more molten filament in a melt pool, the flashforge has a very little melt pool compared to other all metal setups.

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## curious aardvark

3 mm works fine.

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## 34Ford

I hate the purge simplify does before printing.   I  love the way RepG feeds a little pool onto the corner then continues feeding the filament out while traveling to your part.

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## lucidpsykosis

I loved that too...which is why I do a couple rounds of a skirt.  Gets rid of any hangies.

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## sasabs

simplify3d is worth it especially if you do dual extruder printing or need to program periodic stops for parameter change or to change filaments. Has a learning curve though. Instructions almost nonexistent.
I spent over $1500 for my setup and would be foolish not to spend some extra to get best performance.

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## curious aardvark

Instructions are comprehensive and readily available - good manual, available online and in pdf. 
Plus anythig you want to know has already been answered on the s3d forum. 
And there are info bubble when you hover over every single setting.
And the s3d team answer emails swiftly and sort out any problems just as quickly. 

You'd have to work really hard to not find detailed instructions.

The start purge can be modified by gcode. haven't done it yet as I quite like the spit strand into case. I like the makerware wipe better - and at some point I'll work out how to do that. There are instructions around, I remember seeing. 

My only real issue is with the infil and the fact that I can't get the right nozzle on my creator working properly. Yet the one on the knp machine is fine.

But it's still hand down better than anything else I've used.

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## Nargg

My opinion:  Simplify 3D might be good, but I'm not enjoying using it.  The interface is much too complicated, confusing and too detailed and flat.  Basically, if you're not careful on each print and check each and every setting, you may get undesired results.  I love the idea of all the control it has, but the control is messy and unorganized.  Once I learn it, I may start to like it.  But for now I think the name is misleading...

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## jfkansas

I think the name means it simplifies making changes to the print settings. You don't have to change everything. Just use the default Flashforge or whatever settings and tweak from there. I spend more time tweaking support settings than anything. That and extrusion volume/filament diameter.

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## curious aardvark

yeah narg - how many other programs have you played with ?
I think slic3r is harder to use, cura easier, rep-g just a piece of crap that takes all bloody day to slice even simple models, not tried repetier host.
Makerware is the easiest to use and gives decent results. But has a seriously annoying habit of resetting speed and temps when you click on anything not in the settings tab. 

And the beauty of s3d is that once you've got settings that work. They stay saved and always work. 

The layout does seperate similiar elements which makes it easier to use. 

But it's like everything - you have to learn how to use things to make things. 
Programs like makerware that only offer a half dozen options (without the profile editor) are easier to use - but less effective. 

I always more detail than less. Which equates to more control. 
You can use s3d in idiot mode - where you just pick between different preset settings. 
I have ever tried that - as I pretty much change certain things for every print. And they use way more infill than I tend to on most models. 

There are many options I've never messed with in s3d - because you don't need to.

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## sasabs

Yes, S3d does have ts faults, the chief one being lack of good doumentation. understandable for free stuff but unacceptable at  $140.
It is my primary slicer though. As Mr. Aardvark says, Once you have it set up it stays setup. S3D support has been very helpful.
Sometimes I still use MW though for very simple prints, and for some iinvolved dual extruder prints because MW will automatically line up both files which is very time consuming manually.

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## rforeman

> Yes, S3d does have ts faults, the chief one being lack of good doumentation. understandable for free stuff but unacceptable at  $140.
> It is my primary slicer though. As Mr. Aardvark says, Once you have it set up it stays setup. S3D support has been very helpful.
> Sometimes I still use MW though for very simple prints, and for some iinvolved dual extruder prints because MW will automatically line up both files which is very time consuming manually.


S3D Will line up duel extruder very quick if the model is done correctly. All you do is load each part of the model hold down the shift key and click the center button and it lines everything up.

Also S3D Support forum is a good source of information the are 22 tip of the day post explaining all the functions in each tab.
http://www.forum.simplify3d.com/view...fe6b92c5ac3e16

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## Nargg

> yeah narg - how many other programs have you played with ?
> 
> I think slic3r is harder to use, cura easier, rep-g just a piece of crap that takes all bloody day to slice even simple models, not tried repetier host.
> Makerware is the easiest to use and gives decent results. But has a seriously annoying habit of resetting speed and temps when you click on anything not in the settings tab.


The Dreamer is my 2nd 3D printer, so I've used a lot.  No doubt most of the slicers out there are extremely confusing to anyone, old or new to 3D printing.




> And the beauty of s3d is that once you've got settings that work. They stay saved and always work. 
> The layout does seperate similiar elements which makes it easier to use.


That's no big deal, most slicers I've used are good a saving settings.  Not sure why this is an issue that needs to be solved?  And the FlashForge slicer also has element control similar (though easier) than S3D.




> But it's like everything - you have to learn how to use things to make things.
> 
> I always more detail than less. Which equates to more control. 
> You can use s3d in idiot mode - where you just pick between different preset settings. 
> I have ever tried that - as I pretty much change certain things for every print. And they use way more infill than I tend to on most models. 
> 
> There are many options I've never messed with in s3d - because you don't need to.


Herein lies the problem...  The learning cycle.

First, I've found the preset settings, like most 3D slicers, don't work well.  You ALWAYS have to change something.  You stated that you always change settings too, so not sure why you'd recommend defaults...
Second, there are so many software packages for so many purposes today that show you don't have to hide things to make them simple.  It's all a matter of interface design, and to me S3D's interface sucks big time.   Seriously sucks.  This is why I rated it "not simple"
Last, if there is an option there you never use, why not?  Was it too confusing or not well described or difficult to use?  Possibly not needed, but how would you know of all the ones you've not used since there are no real instructions and the poor layout and design makes it difficult to learn their use and results.

While I'm not saying it's a total waste of a program, it is powerful.  What I'm saying is the term "simplify" was poorly chosen.  "Empowered 3D" would be much more applicable to this software's abilities.  Not Simple.  Not at all.

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## 34Ford

> I loved that too...which is why I do a couple rounds of a skirt.  Gets rid of any hangies.



After hours of trying different codes I did get simplify to do a pool in the corner and lay down a line to the part, but only for the one part.
Problem is, simplify puts in its code after the initial start code which kills the code I put in the start code. Doh!

So I went in and deleted the purge, and like you, I just let it do a skirt to get the flow we need.

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## curious aardvark

Nargg - if you know so much and have so much experience - why are you wingeing about things round here ? 

Settings you don't need to change - are simply that settings you don't need to change. 
The fact that you have the option is good. There might one day be a reason to change it. 

I find s3d very easy to use and extremely well laid out. 
You don't - but why argue about it ?

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## Todd-67

I love S3D.... I have had my FF Dreamer for less than a month and I can make ABS prints that I am quite satisfied with. PLA is a no brainer. The support structure control lets me create some pretty good parts with a fair amount of overhang. There are not too many options. There could be a few more actually. The layer controls for height, speed and temp help me out a lot in getting the print to stick and not curl. On models like this that have multiple overhanging structure that have to come together it helps a lot. I am not disappointed at all with the price/features.
20150417_152518.jpg
20150417_153456.jpg

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## AmyInNH

> After hours of trying different codes I did get simplify to do a pool in the corner and lay down a line to the part, but only for the one part.
> Problem is, simplify puts in its code after the initial start code which kills the code I put in the start code. Doh!
> 
> So I went in and deleted the purge, and like you, I just let it do a skirt to get the flow we need.


If you want it to save your changes to the profile so it'll do that same purge every time, you'd have to select "Update Profile", near the top.

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## gigix

Hello, I bought Simplify3d some day ago. I have some problems with the top and bottom layer. Printed with Flashforge Creator pro anc Colorfabb pla/pha silver.

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## wachuko

> I hate the purge simplify does before printing.   I  love the way RepG feeds a little pool onto the corner then continues feeding the filament out while traveling to your part.


I love this too...

I need to find what the gcode is to get that back in Simplify3D... I still have not started using it (bought it on Sep 5th)... still using ReplicatorG

I have been reading the manual... and reading the tips on the forum.  Learned to day that I can remove/modify the amount and location of the supports.  This is great.  
I need to get off my as* and get the darn software configure/fine-tuned to my printer.  Default settings were definitely not optimal... reason why I went back to ReplicatorG to finish what I was doing.  And also, doing this at 3am is not the best time to think clearly, lol.

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## curious aardvark

The new version 3.0 - has gone back to the way makerware starts. A line along the front of the build plate, and doesn't need a skirt anymore. 
The last inch or so the head slows down and whatever they've done it keeps the filament in the nozzle and now starts printing immediately. 

Between that and proper solid infill - I'm a seriously happy bunny :-)

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## wachuko

> The new version 3.0 - has gone back to the way makerware starts. A line along the front of the build plate, and doesn't need a skirt anymore. 
> The last inch or so the head slows down and whatever they've done it keeps the filament in the nozzle and now starts printing immediately. 
> 
> Between that and proper solid infill - I'm a seriously happy bunny :-)


Yeah... but I have not been able to get it to print correctly... I could not take the time yesterday to troubleshoot... will do so during the weekend.

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## curious aardvark

so what's not working ?

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## wachuko

> so what's not working ?


I select a printer: Replicator Dual
Load an object (that prints great using ReplicatorG)
Generate code
Send to print
Get that line in the front of the build plate
Goes to print the part and it just makes a mess... 

Print plate leveled with application from the printer (maybe I should try the level function that comes with Simplify3D??? )
Using ABS
Printing over tape (same type of tape that I have used to print all the parts I have so far)

I will give it a try tonight and take photos and video to share.

Fist time, it was using settings that were hotter than what I was using before... so I took the temp down from 230 to 210 and the base plate to 110 from 120... still made a mess...

So no way that it works straight out of installing the software, at least not for me.

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## curious aardvark

ah - next time I'm i the workshop I'll send you my profiles. 

basically you need to create a seperate profile for each head. and probably one for dual prints as well - not tried that yet. 

I find when you use a specific profile for each head it all works much much better. 

It seems weird that the gcode you change is just what head to use or not use, but it definitely effects other stuff as well. Don't know why. 
The profile for my Klick-n-print that comes with s3d - drops the build plate abouta mm each layer. 
Changed to custom rep dual profile - works perfectly. Yet nothing I changed referenced the layer height or z axis at all. 

Also the knp has a weird size build plate that wasn't in the s3d profile. its 234mmx155x150

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## wachuko

> ah - next time I'm i the workshop I'll send you my profiles. 
> 
> basically you need to create a seperate profile for each head. and probably one for dual prints as well - not tried that yet. 
> 
> I find when you use a specific profile for each head it all works much much better. 
> 
> It seems weird that the gcode you change is just what head to use or not use, but it definitely effects other stuff as well. Don't know why. 
> The profile for my Klick-n-print that comes with s3d - drops the build plate abouta mm each layer. 
> Changed to custom rep dual profile - works perfectly. Yet nothing I changed referenced the layer height or z axis at all. 
> ...


Thank you!  I sent you my email address via PM.

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