# Specific 3D Printers, Scanners, & Hardware > RepRap Format Printer Forum >  Did I break my hot end?

## TehStranger

Hey guys.

I'll start from the beginning. I tried printing something yesterday and I noticed halfway through the print filament wasn't extruding, so, I stopped the printer and tried to manually extrude the plastic but nothing came out, I then pulled out the filament and noticed some pretty bad grinding, I cut the grinded part off and tried pushing the filament down through the hot end but nothing was coming out...  :Frown:  So now I took the extruder apart and removed the hot end, disassembled the hot end (removed the brass nozzle and heat block (while they were still hot)) and gave them a soak in paint thinner to clean them up, but then I noticed the top part that screws into the heat block (don't know the proper names, pics will be below. sorry :'( ) was clogged with filament so I heated up a thin, long piece of metal and pushed it down into it, all the plastic came out and it was nice and clean. Ok so now everything is clean, I assembled it, heated up the hot end, loaded the filament and began manually extruding....but nothing came out.... so I kept turning it and bam, the whole heat block pops off.... Pics below so you get a better understanding of what I mean (hopefully). I'm writing this super tired so I apologize for any mistakes I might of made.

Cheers.

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## TehStranger

Also, I tried pushing it back in and heard a click noise, but it still comes out with very light pulling or pushing (when I put filament through)

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## Geoff

> Also, I tried pushing it back in and heard a click noise, but it still comes out with very light pulling or pushing (when I put filament through)


There is supposed to be a thread that screws into the heatsink... to me it looks like you have barely any thread at all.. it can't be tapped since there is no meat left... hmm I personally would go and spend $50 on a new extruder

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## TehStranger

> There is supposed to be a thread that screws into the heatsink... to me it looks like you have barely any thread at all.. it can't be tapped since there is no meat left... hmm I personally would go and spend $50 on a new extruder


 this part you mean?

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## TehStranger

> There is supposed to be a thread that screws into the heatsink... to me it looks like you have barely any thread at all.. it can't be tapped since there is no meat left... hmm I personally would go and spend $50 on a new extruder


Do you know of any good hot end I should look for?

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## Mjolinor

> Any recommendations?


You just quoted his recommendations. Go and buy a new one.

Unless there is some reason why you can't in which case you need to pull it apart and see where it is broken.

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## TehStranger

> You just quoted his recommendations. Go and buy a new one.
> 
> Unless there is some reason why you can't in which case you need to pull it apart and see where it is broken.


oops. What I meant was does he have any suggestions for a hot end. I'll edit that now lawl.

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## Mjolinor

If you are happy with the way that one worked then buy one the same. Personally I would mend it, there is no rocket science in there, something is broken and you can get all the bits fairly easily. It doesn't seem worth buying a whole new one just for that unless you have a desperate need to mend it NOW or you are not inclined to bother, both good reasons for not mending it.

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## Geoff

> If you are happy with the way that one worked then buy one the same. Personally I would mend it, there is no rocket science in there, something is broken and you can get all the bits fairly easily. It doesn't seem worth buying a whole new one just for that unless you have a desperate need to mend it NOW or you are not inclined to bother, both good reasons for not mending it.


Hey, if it can be fixed, fix it!

The only thing that concerns me is the nozzle going back in crooked, you would not want that it would make some messy prints or hit the build surface.

I just checked, and you can get them even cheaper, spend $35 and buy a new one, its easier and yours looks like it's had a good workout  :Smile: 

NOTE the one below does not state 1.75 or 3mm, you would need to ask them, but seeing the nozzle diameter is 0.4 or 0.3 I would hazard a guess its for 1.75 mm filament.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3D-extrud...2f15c7d&_uhb=1

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## TehStranger

> Hey, if it can be fixed, fix it!
> 
> The only thing that concerns me is the nozzle going back in crooked, you would not want that it would make some messy prints or hit the build surface.
> 
> I just checked, and you can get them even cheaper, spend $35 and buy a new one, its easier and yours looks like it's had a good workout 
> 
> NOTE the one below does not state 1.75 or 3mm, you would need to ask them, but seeing the nozzle diameter is 0.4 or 0.3 I would hazard a guess its for 1.75 mm filament.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3D-extrud...2f15c7d&_uhb=1


I'll definitely look into that one, is there any real difference between a J-head and hexagon hot end?

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## TehStranger

> If you are happy with the way that one worked then buy one the same. Personally I would mend it, there is no rocket science in there, something is broken and you can get all the bits fairly easily. It doesn't seem worth buying a whole new one just for that unless you have a desperate need to mend it NOW or you are not inclined to bother, both good reasons for not mending it.


I was thinking of welding it or even using the cement stuff some people use to secure their thermistor but I need to find out why it's clogging up with filament, you got any idea why it's doing it?

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## Geoff

> I was thinking of welding it or even using the cement stuff some people use to secure their thermistor but I need to find out why it's clogging up with filament, you got any idea why it's doing it?


is it clogging to the point of pushing that off is it? that's a bit different, as it's got unnatural force on it, apologies if I missed that in your first post.

Have you got some electric guitar string? light gauge? 

There are two things that would probably cause that sort of blockage to the point of forcing it out (and you must have some good filament to not shred itself before that happens!) so it's either a blockage or for me, when it's that bad generally I am not printing hot enough for that particular filament.

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## TehStranger

> is *it clogging to the point of pushing that off is it?* that's a bit different, as it's got unnatural force on it, apologies if I missed that in your first post.
> 
> Have you got some electric guitar string? light gauge? 
> 
> There are two things that would probably cause that sort of blockage to the point of forcing it out (and you must have some good filament to not shred itself before that happens!) so it's either a blockage or for me, when it's that bad generally I am not printing hot enough for that particular filament.


Yep.

I don't have any guitar string or light gauge  :Frown: .

I've only used PLA so far and I print at 225c because I got the best results out of that and its also REALLY cold where I live so... ye

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## MK-X

Do not go cheap on the hotend. Other than the cold end portion, the hot end is the most important part of a 3D printer. Invest in an authentic J-head or if you want high end, E3DV6.

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## TehStranger

> Do not go cheap on the hotend. Other than the cold end portion, the hot end is the most important part of a 3D printer. Invest in an authentic J-head or if you want high end, E3DV6.


Hmmmm, been spending too much money lately  :Frown: 

Can you tell me the difference between a J-head and hexagon hot end?

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## MK-X

First off, the Jhead has a ptfe liner and cannot heat up as high as an all metal hot end like the hexagon hotend or the E3DV6. However, the jhead is essentially one piece, leaks and jams don't occur often and I, personally have never had my jhead jam or leak. It's reliable like an old toyota or honda. It just keeps on going. I haven't used a Hexagon hotend, but I have heard of leaks and jams are a common issue. Not to say that the E3D doesn't have those issues either, but it is a reputable brand used by many, many people.

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## TehStranger

> First off, the Jhead has a ptfe liner and cannot heat up as high as an all metal hot end like the hexagon hotend or the E3DV6. However, the jhead is essentially one piece, leaks and jams don't occur often and I, personally have never had my jhead jam or leak. It's reliable like an old toyota or honda. It just keeps on going. I haven't used a Hexagon hotend, but I have heard of leaks and jams are a common issue. Not to say that the E3D doesn't have those issues either, but it is a reputable brand used by many, many people.


So I will only be able to print with ABS and PLA?

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## MK-X

With the Jhead? Yes.

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## TehStranger

> With the Jhead? Yes.


Hmm I am tempted to buy the E3DV6. Should I go for the one with Bowden extras? is it any easier or harder to manage a Bowden setup?

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## MK-X

A bowden setup will let you travel faster, less weight on the effector. However, you have to deal with hysterisis and retraction settings on the E3DV6

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## TehStranger

> A bowden setup will let you travel faster, less weight on the effector. However, you have to deal with hysterisis and retraction settings on the E3DV6


Will the E3DV6 be compatible with my Wades extruder straight out of the box?

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## MK-X

That all depends on your hotend mount.

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## printbus

> Will the E3DV6 be compatible with my Wades extruder straight out of the box?


In part of  Makerfarm Prusa 10" i3v Available!, usarmyaircav was recently dealing with that very question.   It appears to need a different thickness mounting plate (6mm vs the 4.5mm one you likely have now).

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## TehStranger

This whole situation SUCKS  :Frown: 

I'm gonna try to weld my one and if it doesnt turn out good I'll just buy an E3DV6.

Thanks for all your help guys!

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