# Specific 3D Printers, Scanners, & Hardware > FlashForge Forum >  creator pro 2016 help needed please

## huntleybill

I recently purchased a FFCP and have been having issues with the extruders that stop extruding during printing. The printer continues going through the motions but no filament comes out. I then stop the print job and go through the filament loading process and the extruders extrude just fine. At first I though it was possibly a corrupt file but I have tried it with several models. Usually it happens with bigger models but extrusion works fine for about 5% to 10% into the print and then just stops extruding. I am wasting a lot of filament and this is becoming very frustrating. 

I do not hear any "clicking".
This can happen with either extruder.
I am using the ABS filament that came with the printer.
The extruder temp is set to 225 degrees.
The speed is set to 40

Thank you in advance for your help
Bill

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## huntleybill

Ummm...any one?

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## wirlybird

Other than loose wires or a faulty board some things are these.

Did you do a firmware update on the printer from the flashprint software?  Mine told me to do that when installing.

Are you printing from USB?  If so turn off power saving for the ports.  Also if you are on a USB 3 port give a USB 2 a try.

Maybe up the extruder temp a bit to 230 and make sure there are no pinch spots in the travel path for the filament.  Also make sure the filament hasn't gotten crossed on its self on the reel, like the end got under a few loops and is crossed over itself and starts to tighten as it feeds.
What software are you using>

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## AmbientG

I had trouble with my printer feeding properly without the filament getting caught on the spool until I printed a filament guide like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:409297. I am not sure if that is your issue but thought I would mention it.

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## Sebastian Finke

> Did you do a firmware update on the printer from the flashprint software?  Mine told me to do that when installing.


The FFCX does not use Flashprint.




> Are you printing from USB?  If so turn off power saving for the ports.  Also if you are on a USB 3 port give a USB 2 a try.


It is not a USB issue as the printer continues to 'go through the motions'. The USB problem is common to all FFC_ printers but will stop the printer completely.




> Maybe up the extruder temp a bit to 230 and make sure there are no pinch  spots in the travel path for the filament.  Also make sure the filament  hasn't gotten crossed on its self on the reel, like the end got under a  few loops and is crossed over itself and starts to tighten as it feeds.
> What software are you using>


If the filament got snagged there would definitely be a clicking noise so I would rule out that.

I had something like this once, way back with some bad PLA. It would break in the feeder tube (probably too dry/brittle). What little was still clamped by the extruder wheel would go through and then nothing else came out despite the printer still printing. Re-load filament and try again. So on and so on until I finally got it. 

It could be a loose cable to the extruder. Check those too. And definitely run the print on the other extruder in the meantime.

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## wirlybird

> The FFCX does not use Flashprint.
> 
> 
> 
> It is not a USB issue as the printer continues to 'go through the motions'. The USB problem is common to all FFC_ printers but will stop the printer completely.
> 
> 
> 
> If the filament got snagged there would definitely be a clicking noise so I would rule out that.
> ...


WOW, full attack mode on my suggestions.  That's what I get for trying to help?

He said it was a "FFCP" not a "FFCX" thus it came with Flashprint - at least mine did.

I asked about the USB since mine was problematic on a USB 3 port but fine on a USB 2 and if he is printing from a card then that is ruled out.  When I turned off power management on all USB ports things improved and I am able to use the USB 3.  The point is to rule out possible communication issues.

I have had filament "snag"  or rather the spool was dragging after time due to the spool changing position and rubbing on the holder and it simply stripped out the filament and no "clicking".  

And since you feel the need to pick my efforts to help apart, he already stated that it is having the issue on BOTH extruders so using the "other" one would seem pointless.

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## Sebastian Finke

Sorry it came across like that. Not picking on you. 

For the record The FFCP works best with either S3D or Makerware. Flashprint is not the preferred option. FP was initially brought out with the Dreamer as an attempt at a Stratasys/3D Systems-like setup. Not too popular if I recall.

The USB issue goes far deeper. In a nutshell using USB for printing is asking for trouble. Stick to memory card or wifi.

If you had no clicking then your filament idler wasn't exerting enough pressure the the extruder gear. Easily remedied. And may be the case here although its unlikely.

Missed that part about both extruders. Whatever the OP tries to fix the issue he should try on both extruder to make sure it replicates.

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## wirlybird

> Sorry it came across like that. Not picking on you. 
> 
> For the record The FFCP works best with either S3D or Makerware. Flashprint is not the preferred option. FP was initially brought out with the Dreamer as an attempt at a Stratasys/3D Systems-like setup. Not too popular if I recall.
> 
> The USB issue goes far deeper. In a nutshell using USB for printing is asking for trouble. Stick to memory card or wifi.
> 
> If you had no clicking then your filament idler wasn't exerting enough pressure the the extruder gear. Easily remedied. And may be the case here although its unlikely.
> 
> Missed that part about both extruders. Whatever the OP tries to fix the issue he should try on both extruder to make sure it replicates.



No problem!!

I agree on the flashprint.  The only reason I brought it up was that during my setup the instructions said to run it and do a firmware update.  Don't know if it actually did anything but didn't seem to break it.

Yes, USB can be an issue and probably the most common thing aside from the ports powering down is people using cables that are to long or extension cables.  USB 3 can also be problematic depending on the driver/printer combo.  I have one printer that will not run off a USB 3 but works fine on USB 2 ports, two others work fine on the USB 3's.  I do have a tested USB solution for those interested.  I use a USB extender via network cable.  I run 3 printers off 3 75 foot runs and have no issues.  I just like to monitor on S3D!  

Yes on the extruders or it was still moving just a slight bit of filament and spinning its wheels.  Either way a definite possibility.

I was wondering if his issue could be heat related.  It really sounds more electrical to me especially on a new machine.

Thanks for the commentary - I am always needing to learn more also and apologies for being a little over reactive!!

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## jfkansas

The newest version of Flashprint supports the Creator Pro and similar clones. You can even open a .x3g file in flash print to view and check out layers.

Older versions of Makerware are OK with FFCP, but newer desktop versions are buggy. I've read that it has trouble with heating the the correct extruder. 

S3D is the way to go though. IMO, everything else is a waste of time to spend time to learn. 




> Sorry it came across like that. Not picking on you. 
> 
> For the record The FFCP works best with either S3D or Makerware. Flashprint is not the preferred option. FP was initially brought out with the Dreamer as an attempt at a Stratasys/3D Systems-like setup. Not too popular if I recall.
> 
> The USB issue goes far deeper. In a nutshell using USB for printing is asking for trouble. Stick to memory card or wifi.
> 
> If you had no clicking then your filament idler wasn't exerting enough pressure the the extruder gear. Easily remedied. And may be the case here although its unlikely.
> 
> Missed that part about both extruders. Whatever the OP tries to fix the issue he should try on both extruder to make sure it replicates.

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## djprinter

My guess would be that the filament isn't freely coming of the spool.

But your temperature is also low for ABS.  I'd suggest printing at 240.

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## huntleybill

Actually, I stopped using ReplicatorG and switched to Flashprint and so far, I have not had the issue. I have only done a couple of things so I am not convinced that the issue is solved but things are going in the right direction.

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## Todd-67

> My guess would be that the filament isn't freely coming of the spool.
> 
> But your temperature is also low for ABS.  I'd suggest printing at 240.


 That is what I was wondering as well. I have had some materials that require a fair amount more heat than others of the same type.

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## wirlybird

> That is what I was wondering as well. I have had some materials that require a fair amount more heat than others of the same type.


If you don't go to all metal hot ends you will start to have issues with the PTFE tube once you start going over 230.  I'd check that out first to see.

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## wirlybird

> Actually, I stopped using ReplicatorG and switched to Flashprint and so far, I have not had the issue. I have only done a couple of things so I am not convinced that the issue is solved but things are going in the right direction.


Good to hear.  I haven't actually done a print with Flashprint but my FFCP's run great with S3D.

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## huntleybill

Thank you for that info wirlybird. I am printing with a temp of 230 and N.F. pretty much oozes out like crazy at that temp.

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## huntleybill

> For the record The FFCP works best with either S3D or Makerware.


What version of Makerware would you recommend? Or will any version work?

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## Sebastian Finke

Actually I have to recant my comments about Flashprint. After reading jfkansas's comment I downloaded it and gave it a whirl. Its not bad actually. Calibrations values are a bit different so it took me a while to get materials dialed but now its running very well. Haven't tried a dual extrusion yet as I am busy with a large project. Hopefully I will be able to complete it by Saturday evening and then do some dual stuff on Sunday. 

Anyway... Flashprint is in some ways better than Makerware: it has a fresh look to it, all the settings are there that I need to fiddle with, it doesn't do that stupid purge line along the front of the HBP, manual support placement, random layer start points to name a few. I heard (but not tried) that supports and rafts are as junk to remove as with Makerware so that's not good. Ultimately I will invest in S3D.

Makerware 2.4 is the preferred MW release. There are download links in the Flashforge section.

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## huntleybill

S3D is $150...yikes!!!!
Flashprint....Free!

hmmmm...what to do.

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## wirlybird

Can't tell you what to do about S3D but I started with it straight out of the gate and like it.  I have tried some of the others a little and found them a pain and the prints weren't as good.  I am biased though!

Messed with the new flashprint and it seems ok.  Plenty of features.

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## huntleybill

OK...so what does S3d do that others can't? I mean for $150, there should be a significant improvement in quality of prints I would think. Or at least make coffee.  :Wink:

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## wirlybird

Very flexible.  Many many settings you can mess with but that can get you in trouble quick also.  It is very fast on slicing.
On one of my printers I can do a print with the supplied software (it is free so it is what it is!) and the print is ok.  The same print in S3D is much better but there is a lot more to know about using it.

The response I usually see is people love it.  Some have not liked it at first until they got things set up right and got an understanding of what all of the settings do and how they can affect each other.
There is a good support forum, it is not monitored by S3D but many members.
S3D support has been good and responsive for me.

Bottom line, I have had a good experience with it.  It may not be for everyone.  I am sure the other packages have their strong points also.  There is no ultimate solution but maybe in time you find different slicers can be better at different things.

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## huntleybill

Maybe I need to reconsider S3d. I have a part I need to print out. It is printed with Ninja-Flex. I can't get a good print because it needs supports (I think). All I get is a stringy mess with dual extrusion. I have made so many adjustments to temp, speed, supports, no supports, etc. Maybe I need another opinion. Can I send you the file to print with S3d to see if it comes out any better? Or, maybe you can look at the file and suggest a better way to print it. I'd attach the file here but don't see how to do it.

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## wirlybird

I see what you are up against.  I am guessing it is the corners?

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## curious aardvark

does it have to be ninjaflex ? 
straight ninjaflex is the hardest flexible filament to use well. 
My favourite is polyflex - a flexible pla. 
ninjatek semi-flex might also be an option. It's a little stiffer and thus much easier to print with. 

What filament were you using as support ?

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## huntleybill

> I see what you are up against.  I am guessing it is the corners?


Yes...the corners mostly.

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## huntleybill

This part will act as a seal and vibration damper. The rubber texture and flexibility of ninja seems to work well. I know ninja is not real rubber but does poly flex have the same characteristics? I'm not dead set on ninja if something else will work better and give me the results I need. 

I have tried several support materials including PLA, ABS and desolvable.

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## huntleybill

Forgot the answer you about semi-flex. I have that as well but the prints come out a little too stiff.
Maybe it's just me and I am doing something wrong. I am new to the FFCP, so with your experience maybe you can suggest a better settup.

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## Sebastian Finke

You can print ninjaflex on your printer. It requires a quick mod to your extruder (takes a couple of minutes) and you're set. I described the mod some here on the boards, can't find it right now but search shouldn't be too hard.

PTFE begins to degrade to 260 degrees. Depending on the grade you have its anywhere from 260 -290 actually. People state 240 degrees as a safe zone. Beyond 260 and you will after time have to replace your PTFE tube and definitely work in a ventilated space as the fumes can cause flu like symptoms in humans. I print Ninjaflex at 240ish on an FFCX and it works fine.

I don't know what you are printing. Upload a photo?

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## curious aardvark

Nope polyflex is a lot stiffer than ninjaflex. 
If you have to have ninjaflex - then go for Green ninjaflex. For some reason it prints much better and easier than any other colour. I actually printed a really clean marvin with green ninjaflex. have yet to get any other colour to work on the creator.

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## Todd-67

Another vote for simply 3D here

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## huntleybill

Thanks Todd but the $150 is a lot if S3d doesn't print this any better than the free software. I can email you the file if you want to try it out on S3D.  :Wink:

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## huntleybill

As you wish Sebastion......
Front looks great!! (2nd pic)
Back...not so much. I did this print with NO supports at all. The printer and ninja-flex actually almost did it.

20161010_183500 (800x800).jpg

20161010_183507 (800x800).jpg

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## Sebastian Finke

Am I right in assuming that the 'front' was on the build plate and the 'back' was facing up? If so I reckon you may have a calibration issue. If not then try flipping it around so you don't need supports.

Can you upload the file? Or email to sebastian@ecadesign.co.za?

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## Bassna

S3D is almost as important as buying the printer itself :P

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## curious aardvark

what's supposed to be wrong with that print ? For ninjaflex, it's pretty clean.

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## huntleybill

You are correct Mr. Aardvark. I was trying to use supports for the overhangs. that is when things went horribly wrong! I discovered that to use supports with ninja-flex, you have to use ninja-flex (using the same extruder) or you get a stringy mess!

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## towatson

> Actually I have to recant my comments about Flashprint. After reading jfkansas's comment I downloaded it and gave it a whirl. Its not bad actually. Calibrations values are a bit different so it took me a while to get materials dialed but now its running very well. Haven't tried a dual extrusion yet as I am busy with a large project. Hopefully I will be able to complete it by Saturday evening and then do some dual stuff on Sunday. 
> 
> Anyway... Flashprint is in some ways better than Makerware: it has a fresh look to it, all the settings are there that I need to fiddle with, it doesn't do that stupid purge line along the front of the HBP, manual support placement, random layer start points to name a few. I heard (but not tried) that supports and rafts are as junk to remove as with Makerware so that's not good. Ultimately I will invest in S3D.
> 
> Makerware 2.4 is the preferred MW release. There are download links in the Flashforge section.


I am admittedly a newbie on 3D printers but I have a FFCR and I cannot get Flashprint to print even though it appears to talk to the FFCP. I keep getting in a loop when I try to print is pops up a window with parameters and when I continue it asks to save the file. When I do that it goes back to the point where it has the print.

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## wirlybird

Flashprint does not print via USB for the Flashforge Creator Pro.  You must save to SD card and print from that.





> I am admittedly a newbie on 3D printers but I have a FFCR and I cannot get Flashprint to print even though it appears to talk to the FFCP. I keep getting in a loop when I try to print is pops up a window with parameters and when I continue it asks to save the file. When I do that it goes back to the point where it has the print.

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## towatson

Thanks! As I said, I am a newbie  :Smile: .

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## wirlybird

Happy to help!  There is so much to this stuff it can get overwhelming easily.




> Thanks! As I said, I am a newbie .

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## towatson

Just one more question (for now)- are there any slicers that do talk to the FFCP over USB?

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## wirlybird

Simplify 3D.




> Just one more question (for now)- are there any slicers that do talk to the FFCP over USB?

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