# Specific 3D Printers, Scanners, & Hardware > Other 3D Printers / Scanners / Hardware >  Longer LK5 Pro Help.

## Mathius

Hello everyone.   I could really use some help here.  

I have a Longer LK5 Pro.   The short version is, I bought the printer and it mostly worked.  I installed the official Longer fan upgrade kit and made some adjustments and this happens:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ujeam3fs6j...02758.mp4?dl=0

Hopefully that video link works (EDIT: Tried it after posting, seems to work.  You can X out of dropbox login, you do NOT have to sign up).

That's the short version.   If someone could help.




Here is a more detailed explanation:

I bought the printer from Amazon in Nov of last year:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JPRL5BJ
The official web page is here:  https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk...fdm-3d-printer

The printer mostly worked if I printed something straight up and down.  If I tried to print anything on an angle I got stringing and furryness.  In hindsight, knowing what I know now, I should have started with a simple temperature test, but it's too late for that.

Researching the printer, I found several youtube reviews stating the cooling fans weren't sufficient.  They showed their own print and modify methods to add extra fans.  I opted to buy the official kit from Longer:  https://www.longer3d.com/products/lo...blower-fan-kit

I followed the "not great" video instructions from Longer:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEA-eM5sfho

The installation mostly went ok... I did NOT realize the pins for the fan had some type of adhesive to hold them to the board and I had some issues there, but after assembly the printer functioned.

I first had issues leveling the bed.  The software on the printer sends the print nozzle to the 4 corners of the bed and then the center in it's leveling process.  Spot #5 (the center) appeared to be high.  After leveling 1-4 with feeler gauges, 5 would always be closer and the feeler gauge wouldn't clear.  Unfortunately, 5 being the center of the bed, there's no adjustment knob there, only at the 4 corners.

I later cut some aluminum shims at work, but they proved not to be enough and I never got a chance to install a 2nd set of shims.  I should also point out that my glass print plate is held using the binder clip method and adding the first set of shims felt like it was getting close to stretching the clips.

Anyways, I elected to set the print head to spot #5 and then I sort of fudged the outside settings, giving them a bit more clearance than I would.   My first print (2x2 square) had some elephant's foot, but a bit more dialing in and I got a successful print.  But I was a bit discouraged by the bed issue, and I also began to realize that the entire print head assembly felt loose on the gantry and the entire apparatus could be lifted up and down with the filler gauge or my finger.

I searched online and one day found out about the eccentric nut adjustment.  I tightened the nut until the head felt firm and moved by hand, but was disappointed to find out when I started the printer back up, the head wouldn't move at all now.  So I backed it off.  It still felt loose, but the print head would move when directed by the software.

But then I tried to level the bed again and the print head slammed against the left side of the gantry over and over again as though it were ignoring the end stop, until finally I got an error message and it stopped.  I attempted to turn it back on and home the printer and I kept getting a homing error.

More research and I realized by unplugging and plugging in the x axis end stop, I could get the printer to home.   But then when I went to level the bed it would move from spot 1 (sw) to 2 (se), and then to 3 (ne), but when I went to move it to 4 (nw), I began to get that same repeated ramming motion.   I have been searching online for a solution and have found nothing.  I elected to record the issue and post it on a board for help.  When I went to record the video I was unable to even more it from position 1 to position 2 (which is what is happening in the video.)

Longer appears to be a foreign (probably chinese) company that relies heavily on translators.  They have a facebook group support page, but I refuse to join Facebook.

I was hoping someone here could tell me what's going on.  I'm sure there's a chance I could loosen the eccentric nut and the print mechanism would move along the gantry again, but then that leaves me with a semi-loose print head.

Longer also seems to have discontinued the BR Touch kit for their printers.  The link is still on the web page but it says "Sold Out" with a notation that they will no longer be selling it.

Thank you for your time.

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## gus

I found that my 5K pro was roughed up in shipping.  There are vids that go down in the weeds to verify the hardware.  I liked video titled:  Longer LK5 Pro - bigger, better ender 3 (review and upgrades).

I found that I needed to to get the frame square in X,Y, and Z.  I used a couple of squares to verify how true the axis were and then work the get them square.  The X axis was off 3mm in 100 mm.  That made the table leveling not able work.  I have a new version which came with a cable support that became part of the leveling.  A good part but it does reduce the adjustment range.   All the bearings needed to be adjusted.  I also found sheet metal parts twisted which put things out of square.  Perhaps some folks would say that the frame does not need to be square in three axis, just not me.

I did measure temperatures and found the table temperature was 10 C low,  the head output temperature was also low.  I noticed that often there are different setting for the first print that touches the table top.  You may want to do the same.  The Keyboard does allow for a pause and adjust, then continue.  Hence this would be one way to run two sets of settings (I adjust the flow rate and speed down by 20% for this)

I view a video that put all this in the right perspective for me.  He had these type of printers are hobby machines and one needs to know what the want from the machine and build and adjust it accordingly. 

Lastly take reviews of any 3D printer delivered to a users for a review with a grain of salt.  My printer would never even function due to a cabling error at the factory.  When i watch those vids for the 5K pro I see those machines have been setup and tested before the reviewer received it.  I would say that obviously did not happen with our machines.

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