# Specific 3D Printers, Scanners, & Hardware > Other 3D Printers / Scanners / Hardware > M3D Forum >  new to 3D printing, help please

## DaleSabers

Hey guys,

I just got my printer this week and I've done everything that I could to get the printer to work but I'm running into issues with the prints. I'm constantly getting the prints to come off the rafts and every time I try to calibrate the bed it's never consistent with the extrusion. I've taken my calipers to the test print, adjusted accordingly to have it to go to .4mm but it changes every which way possible. 

I'm running it on a vista OS system so I'm thinking it may be it but any support would be great.

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## Alibert

Make of 3D printer?
Type of filament?
Dimensions of object?
Heated bed and nozzle temperatures?
Optional: picture?

Without the above there is not much help we can give you....

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## DaleSabers

Sorry, it's a M3D Printer with PLA white pearl filament, and the objects are varied in size. The bed is not head and the temperature is set to 215 as per the instructions and preset.

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## Alibert

OK, that clarifies some issues.




> I'm constantly getting the prints to come off the rafts


You are printing on a raft which does stick to the bed, but the object detaches from the raft during the printing? Is this correct?  Can you upload a picture?

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## LambdaFF

Hi Dale, I have to agree with the above : post a few pictures, take the time to describe and provide side information.

Also, why do you say the bed is not consistent with extrusion ? This is not clear to me. And what do you mean you measured it to go to 0,4mm ?

As things are, it could be a number of things.

For instance, have you looked at your print while it was being done ? If so, how did it fail ? 
- the hotend bumped into overflow material and the raft link to the printed object failed. (in which case you should hear a rapping sound several times before).
- the printed object warped and the hotend bumped into it and the raft link to the printed object failed.  (in which case you should hear a rapping sound several times before).
- the raft link to the printed object was too weak due to under extrusion (you should be able to see if the object was firmly held or not)

Why do you use raft ? the bed is not flat / level ? I personnally seldom do rafts if at all.

This may have little to do with your issue, but have a look at this, it may help you describe your issue to us. https://www.simplify3d.com/support/p...oubleshooting/

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## DaleSabers

When I say it's not consistent for a border test, I mean it's not consistent. If I tell it to reduce the height, it doesn't reduce or it will reduce just not the amount I'm wanting. The bed is level as I've taken a digital and torpedo level to both surface and bed. I'm hearing some clicking when it goes over the prints but the company says it's normal to hear it according to the users guide. So it's likely hitting the prints but since I can't get the calibration to be consistent. 

I've managed to get a batarang from batman beyond printed but the material curls from the bed just ever so slightly. I'm doing up a small print right now and will post pictures of everything once it's done.

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## curious aardvark

> Make of 3D printer?
> Type of filament?
> Dimensions of object?
> Heated bed and nozzle temperatures?
> Optional: picture?
> 
> Without the above there is not much help we can give you....


lmao - check the forum section before asking what printer :-)

Sounds like the bed material isn't as sticky to pla as it should be. 
So you're getting a slight warp. Cheap pla will warp a bit. 

Try rubbing a gluestick over it - pla loves pv-alcohol (the main active adhesive in glue sticks)
That will let the pla stick much better to the bed. 
A couple layers should do to start. 

I usually run the stick over the bed before a print and after removing one from the bed - that tidies up any gaps from pva sticking to the print.

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## Alibert

If I interpret the post correctly he does not have issues with the first layer sticking to the bed, but with the object delaminating off the raft.....    ?

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## curious aardvark

won't need a raft if he uses gluestick :-)

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## garitheous

I am having the same issue with the pearl white filament. I also have the Onyx Black filament but that one works perfectly. This is what happens with the pearl white. I have tried to lower and raise the temperature but I have yet to have a successful print with the white.  20160102_083015.jpg

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## Alibert

Is that a Buildtak bed (PEI)?

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## garitheous

Yes, it is the default bed that came with the M3D.

Also, this works fine for the Onyx black filament, but not the Pearl White. Is there a setting that I should alter for the white?

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## Alibert

My experiences with buildtak are very poor. But I have heard that the trick is to get the (first-layer) gap between the nozzle and the buildtak just right for a particular filament. Too small and you can't get the part off without destroying the buildtak, too large and it won't hold at all. As with Goldilocks it has to be 'just right'. But again, that is what I heard. After ruining two sheets with parts that would not come off without tearing the stuff, I went to glass and hairspray and never looked back. You could try to reduce the gap by 0.05-0.10 mm and see if that helps?

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## PrintPunk

I've always had trouble with the M3D Pearl White PLA and never was able to get a 'good' print with it.  Others in their support forum report the same/sim issues.

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## Duck

The buildtak is pretty but it doesn't really work well at all, I've found.  The blue painter's tape gives better results but still pulls up (often lifting the tape off the buildtak!).

IMG_9563.JPG

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## PrintPunk

Printing with PLA or ABS?
Maybe try cranking the heat down a bit see if that helps with the blue tape pulling up.

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## chaotic1

I just this week got mine up and running and have made two prints. I too had the problem of the print not sticking to the bed or raft (my first one I used a raft, not knowing that it wasn't necessary. The raft would come loose and of course mess up the print so I finally taped the corners down and it worked. I used the honey clear ABS for that print and it required a lot of cleaning up afterward but I am pretty happy with the print. Did not use the slowest or best resolution as it was a trial run. I then learned I did not need to use a raft but didn't have any glue stick. Learned about using blue mask tape too late for this one. I did a flat design of a dragon head, this time using deep crimson PLA and I too had some problem with delamination, pretty much as did garitheous did. I finally watched it printing and when the plastic started to come loose I held it down while the machine played more material. I had to do this a number of times until the first layer was done but afterward it mostly worked okay and I got a completed print. I was not particularly happy with the red PLA as it skipped a few times and as I was doing the finish work on it the base layer totally delaminated in bits. I now believe it was meant to d that. The piece required a lot of trimming for which I used an xacto knife, a Dremel tool and even a fingernail clipper! If anyone has suggestions on cleaning up a print I would love to know what you do.
IMG_1758.jpgIMG_1765.jpg    The first is the item as it came off the printer and the 2nd one is mostly cleaned up. A lot of work!

I am wondering if those of you with experience have a preference for PLA or ABS on the M3D printer? Also is it better to feed the plastic ink from the bottom or from outside the printer? Will higher res and longer print times give me a much smoother print with less cleaning up? I want to design and make miniature furniture and other items.

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## PrintPunk

> I am wondering if those of you with experience have a preference for PLA or ABS on the M3D printer? Also is it better to feed the plastic ink from the bottom or from outside the printer? Will higher res and longer print times give me a much smoother print with less cleaning up? I want to design and make miniature furniture and other items.


- Getting good (quality, consistent) prints with ABS on M3D Micro is very difficult to achieve. The lack of a heated bed makes printing ABS problematic.
- Use the external filament feed method (print one of the external spool holders for the Micro from thingiverse). The internal feed method often causes tension (pull) on the print head and results in layer shifting / failed print.
- From my experience, medium fill / medium quality gives the best results on the Micro.

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