# Specific 3D Printers, Scanners, & Hardware > RepRap Format Printer Forum > MakerFarm Forum >  Itty Bitty Double FLEX V2

## clough42

I just released Version 2 of the Itty Bitty Double FLEX extruder.

IBDF2-UpperRight-e.jpgIBDF2-Top-e.jpgIBDF2-Right-e.jpgIBDF2-BackCornerDetail-e.jpg

This version has a bunch of changes to improve function and ease of use and incorporates several user suggestions:


*Better flexible filament control* - A couple of people have reported trouble with flexible filament coming out of the channel and jamming under the hobbed bolt.  This version has a much more tightly-constrained filament path, both above and below the bolt to keep the filament in place.  It also supports using 1.75mm E3Dv6 hot ends with a PTFE liner, all the way up to the bolt.*Improved printability* - I redesigned many of the parts to make them easier to print.  The forks on the idlers were difficult for many printers to reproduce; they're gone now, replaced by a filament feed hole.  The square inside corners have been redesigned with an overshoot area in each corner to make the corners come out square and clean on even poorly-calibrated printers.  Now the parts fit together easily without cleanup.  The hot end cooling shrouds have been redesigned with support material that holds securely to the print bed, pops off easily when cool and peels off the part cleanly.  The filament channels have been adjusted for a better fit, with and without a liner.  The fingers on the part cooling fan shroud have also been adjusted so they fit cleanly without sanding or trimming.*Hexagon AO support* - A new fan shroud is provided for the shorter Hexagon AO high-heat-capacity hot ends.*Leveling X Carriage plate* -An X carriage plate with an extra eccentric cam hole makes leveling the hot end nozzles easy and repeatable.*Broader Z probe switch support* - The Z probe has been redesigned with more holes to accommodate snap switches with and without arms and wheels, while still keeping the contact point directly under the servo pivot.*Low-profile shelf brackets* - The shelf brackets now recess into the back plate, leaving a smooth side to register underslung X limit switches.  This allows enough X travel on the 12" printers for the left nozzle to reach the entire bed area for single-material prints.

This new version retains all of the features from its predecessors:


Supports E3Dv6 and Hexagon hot endsDesigned for Hexagon or E3Dv6 hot ends on 27mm centersShort, straight filament path to accommodate flexible materialsUses the same hardware kit as all Itty Bitty Double ExtrudersNEMA 14 motorsSilent GT2 belt drives with printed pulleysIntegrated servo Z probeCam-lock idler bearing pinsUses Clough42 custom hobbed bolts or standard MakerFarm boltsLighter than a stock single Accessible ExtruderIntegrated hot end coolingMounting hardware for Prusa i3v printers

The parts are free to download:


From my web site:  http://clough42.com/go/itty-bitty-double-flex-v2/From Thingiverse:  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1234779

Detailed assembly instructions are here:  http://clough42.com/go/ibde-assembly/

If you don't want to track down all of the hardware to build one yourself, complete hardware kits, hobbed bolts, motors, servos and even the printed parts are available.

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## clough42

Here's my test extruder.  I've been using it for a few months now for production printing.

IMG_2396.jpg

I have had a few people ask if it was possible to print everything on a single plate.  Yes, it is.  Here's a print in progress on my 12" MakerFarm.

2015-12-24 15.08.17.jpg

And the completed parts:

IBDF2-Parts-H.jpg

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## beerdart

Fantastic and good timing as I was just getting ready to print the Flex.

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## Chadd

sorry if this is mentioned somewhere but what parts are actually different from the original double flex? I am in the process of assembling the double flex and don't want to reprint any unnecessary parts.

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## clough42

> sorry if this is mentioned somewhere but what parts are actually different from the original double flex? I am in the process of assembling the double flex and don't want to reprint any unnecessary parts.


The extruder blocks themselves are different, with a new enclosed guide hole and tweaked tolerances in the filament channels.  This is the most critical change for performance.

The idler blocks are different, with the forks removed, but the old extruder blocks with the forks on them will still fit and work fine if you already have them.

You will want the new Z probe with the extra holes if you're using a snap switch with an arm on it.  The extra holes allow you to position the tip of the switch under the servo pivot, to reduce error sensitivity.

I think everything else will work fine, if you already have them printed and fitted.  The new parts will print more easily and cleanly and will fit in most cases without any cleanup.  The V1 parts needed a bit of trimming and sanding to fit together.

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## beerdart

Is it possible to make a 3mm filament block with 20mm spacing and NEMA 17 steppers.

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## ServiceXp

Looks like a little V8 engine..  :Embarrassment:

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## clough42

> Is it possible to make a 3mm filament block with 20mm spacing and NEMA 17 steppers.


The Itty Bitty Double FLEX is on 27mm centers to accommodate E3D hot ends, but also because the mechanics of the two extruder bolts require more than 20mm.

The original Itty Bitty Double Extruder does have the hot ends on 20mm centers, but the filament channels are longer and curved, to make room for the bolts. It's designed for NEMA14 motors, but RobH2 posted a derivative for NEMA17 motors here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:581839

I've never tried it, but I think a few other people have.

Oh...ha!  Now that I read through the comments, he mentioned that you provided feedback at the time (December '14).

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## clough42

> Is it possible to make a 3mm filament block with 20mm spacing and NEMA 17 steppers.


Yeah, that's kind of fun.  I started with the geometry of the hot ends, bolts, bearings and drive pulleys and everything else grew from there.  It's pretty cool sometimes to see where a design leads.

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## gddeen

Quickly: Servo doesn't rotate with M280 P0 S100... Thermisters in JHead show 989C. 

I was assembling an Itty Bitty Flex V2 and have finally gotten to the electronics/firmware.
I am not "really" learned in RAMPS 1.3/.4, Makerfarm, HICtop, etc.
My printer is HICtop Prusa i3dp08.

I believe it uses a MKS 1.3 base board which has 5 servo controller plugs, 3 thermister spots, 6 end stop spots, A11, D11, A12, D12
and an unknown connector. (And a display)

The clough42.com website "kinda" skips by saying how to connect the extruders to the boards and goes straight to firmware.
HICtop didn't supply firmware. But the firmware I got from someone that bought a HICtop and was given the firmware
shows the board as "33" not "34"... (33 doesn't handle multiple extruders and fails an arduino build.)

So I set to board as 34. The servo doesn't move. It is connected to 3 pins labeled "D11." I am going to check soldering/wiring/shorts. I believed they were done well. I was very careful.

Are there any customers that have used a MKS 1.3 board?

I went through the "unknown" configuration for HICtop and compared it line by line. The X axis homed in the wrong
direction. Which did NOT match their configuration.h, nor your configuration.h. Hmmmm.

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## clough42

My experience is with RAMPS.  Hopefully someone here can help.

Ultimately, you need the firmware configured to output a servo signal on one pin and arrange for 5V and GND on the two others.  Some boards, like RAMPS, have provisions for the power.

Look through the firmware and see what it's doing when you set to 34.  34 normally changes the fan output to be a second extruder heater and moves the fan to another pin.  Sometimes it's D11, so make sure you aren't trying to put the fan and the servo on the same pin.  The fan output should be straight-up PWM, and a servo will look like a 1-2ms pulse every 22ms.  You should be able to find the servo outputs with an oscilloscope, if you have one, but be aware that the signal may go away if you have SERVO_DEACTIVATION_DELAY set.

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## gddeen

- When I switch from E0 to E1 the drive goes 10 times faster

G91:T1:G1 E0.5 F30:T0:G1 E5 F300:G90

Both drives do about the same thing, T1 sounds rougher.

I HAD them both doing the same. Now they aren't. 
I believe an M221 S87 jumped it into rough mode.
I had gotten it back with a M501. But, now it is staying rough.

I set micro steps to 16. I did a M502 (reset values), M500 (write them)
and that doesn't fix it.

I've changed so many settings that I think I just need to start over.

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## clough42

I know nothing about those drivers.  Are they entirely software controlled?

I typically run 1/16 microstepping.  Usually when I hear that one extruder "extrudes about ten times as much plastic" the person has added a new driver to a RAMPS board without installing the microstepping jumpers.

I'm not sure what you mean by "rough mode."  Just thinking out loud about things to try:


Is microstepping set the same?Is the motor current set the same?If you swap the motor wiring at the board, does the problem move to the other extruder (i.e. is the problem in the controller or in the motors or wiring?)

James




> - When I switch from E0 to E1 the drive goes 10 times faster
> 
> G91:T1:G1 E0.5 F30:T0:G1 E5 F300:G90
> 
> Both drives do about the same thing, T1 sounds rougher.
> 
> I HAD them both doing the same. Now they aren't. 
> I believe an M221 S87 jumped it into rough mode.
> I had gotten it back with a M501. But, now it is staying rough.
> ...

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## gddeen

The firmware/software/hardware goes a long way to hide the details.
I've a lot to do so everyone can go to sleep while I do the work.

[servo signal]
At the Code level micro stepping for each stepper is set at 16. The hardware is labeled A11, A12, D11, D12 each with 3 pins. Which I assume are +,-,signal for D11. The LCD control board has a good 5v power which I am using to drive an auto leveling servo.

[steppers]
there are 5 stepper ports. I have done no research as to how they are addressed/driven or what 'micro stepping is' and if it is performed at the hardware level. I assumed they are output ports driven with processor interrupt timers and Those signals go straight to power switching circuits for output. 
Each have their own separate analog adjustment to keep the voltage at the appropriate level. I have not calibrated the output.

The problem follows the port. So my first step will be to adjust the current.
I had seen both working very well at the same time sequentially one after the other.
[ I don't know what RAMPS means to people. Ibuprofen or Motrin? ]

I'm moving to get the single nozzle up and the servo. The fans, heaters, end stops,thermistors are working.

Home and auto leveling are working (with a servo workaround).

The LCD displays are off. They are turned on by including the drivers into the
firmware. I need to do this also.

[Firmware]
Marlin 1.1.0.RC3 has support for MKS which sets up the heater bed as PWM on pin 7. I was kinda hoping it would have explained a bit about the board so I don't have to look up what the processor pins are... My understanding so far is that there are a bunch of ports and the processor seems to be able to assign/reassign them as pins.
These possibly refer to a standardized GPIO bus used during the 70s... (It will be easy to understand when I go read it.)




> I know nothing about those drivers.  Are they entirely software controlled?
> 
> I typically run 1/16 microstepping.  Usually when I hear that one extruder "extrudes about ten times as much plastic" the person has added a new driver to a RAMPS board without installing the microstepping jumpers.
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean by "rough mode."  Just thinking out loud about things to try:
> 
> 
> Is microstepping set the same?Is the motor current set the same?If you swap the motor wiring at the board, does the problem move to the other extruder (i.e. is the problem in the controller or in the motors or wiring?)
> 
> James

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## jackal24

Would this work on a Pegasus?

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## gddeen

Is it a Marlin firmware? Do you have access to update it? Do you have 5 stepper drivers? Do you have  spot for an extra thermistor?
If so... Will it fit your bed?

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## jackal24

The Pegasus is another makerfarm kit. It looks to be mostly the same as the i3v, but using metal extrusions instead of wood. It also comes with direct drive extruders. The electronics should be able to handle it, I was more interested if it will fit the backplate correctly.

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## clough42

> Would this work on a Pegasus?


Yes, I think it will fit the Pegasus.  The back plate is different on the Pegasus, though, so you will need to print a compatible back plate.  I have one available on Thingiverse here:  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:945613/#files

If you just want a stock plate, you want the NoCams version.

The only possible difference would be if the spacing of the X axis extrusions is different.  Colin tells me it's the same, but it's easy to measure.  My two i3v printers measure 59.2mm and 59.7mm across the outside of the two horizontal extrusions.  If yours are close to that, the above back plate should work for you.

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## jackal24

Thanks for the info

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## gddeen

Also, I can modify any STL or CAD to allow you to make a back plate. (As can lots of people...)
Do you currently print with a J-Head? If so, it's a no brainer.

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## gddeen

For HICtop Prusa i3pd08 with MKS 1.3 board:

pins_MKS_BASE.h
/**
 * MKS BASE 1.0 – Arduino Mega2560 with RAMPS v1.4 pin assignments
 */


#include "pins_RAMPS_13_EFB.h"


#undef HEATER_1_PIN
#define HEATER_1_PIN        7


#undef SERVO0_PIN                // This pin is signal to bed level servo
#define SERVO0_PIN         11 // pin/value 11 is label on MKS board D11, pin/value 12 is label D12


//#undef Y_MAX_PIN           // GDD I run Z_MIN_PIN & Z_MIN_PROBE. I OVERLAP Y_MAX_PIN (15) wire as Z Min Probe pin
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN    15 //

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## hernejj

Clough42,

I'm thinking of buying & building a Flex v2. I currently have a Hex hot end I got with my i3v. If I buy an e3d v6, can I use that and my existing Hex hotend on the Flex without any issues?

Another cool idea: Do you happen to have a version of he Flex that works with the e3d Chimera?

One more.... Any chance of Flex v2 being compatible with the new Makerfarm Pegasus?

Thanks for your hard work and your time.

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## gddeen

- There are STLs made for the Hex hot end.  It runs with both.

- e3d Chimera is 18mm center to center on each throat.  I think the Flex V2 is 27mm center to center.
So, it would not fit. The groove plate is made to lock a J-head hotend onto the extruder base. So, even
the mechanics aren't right. (Good luck with that one!!!)

- I'm NOT Mr J Clough though...
It IS a cool little extruder.

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## hernejj

If I use a Hex and an E3d v6 In the Dual Flex extruder, is there a way to shim the e3d to match the height of the Hex? I assume I need them both to be at the exact same height relative to the bed.

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## gddeen

Hmmm... good idea! Not without a redesigned groovemount

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## gddeen

If you do get any ideas... I've been wondering also.  The current way is to rotate the entire mount on the horizontal axis making it not perpendicular to the axis with the adj backplate.  Then rotating the right threaded rod until level.

That doesn't work well on my printer.

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## clough42

> Clough42,
> 
> I'm thinking of buying & building a Flex v2. I currently have a Hex hot end I got with my i3v. If I buy an e3d v6, can I use that and my existing Hex hotend on the Flex without any issues?
> 
> Another cool idea: Do you happen to have a version of he Flex that works with the e3d Chimera?
> 
> One more.... Any chance of Flex v2 being compatible with the new Makerfarm Pegasus?
> 
> Thanks for your hard work and your time.


The E3Dv6 and the Hexagon are different lengths, so they don't really work well together on the same extruder.  You need the nozzles level to print without crashing into the part.

Gary is right... The Chimera has a different center-to-center distance, but it might be possible to run it if you designed a dual Bowden adapter.

Yes, the Itty Bitty Double FLEX is compatible with the Makerfarm Pegasus if you use my adjustable X carriage plate: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:945613

There is a version of the plate that takes the normal one eccentric on the bottom, and a version that takes an additional eccentric on top for leveling.

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## hernejj

Clough,

awesome! Thank you very much. I'll likely be ordering a hardware kit, motors, light springs, etc etc from you soon  :Smile:

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## clough42

> Clough,
> 
> awesome! Thank you very much. [...]


You're welcome.  Always glad to help.

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## gddeen

> You're welcome.  Always glad to help.


I've been playing a lot with Auto Bed Leveling and Mesh Bed Leveling on a non-makerfarm printer.

ABL really doesn't work on my system. (Probably because it isn't setup correctly.
I'm a senior software engineer... It should be easy.)

MBL always works but is a hassle.

A major problem is I built a plate that mounts to the X-carrage that does not allow tilting.
I've made shims to adjust the height of each nozzle. Mine if 2mm different. It prints fine
but I've pulled lots of teeth to get here...

A big thing is a Prusa i3 cannot have an X-Axis that is not perpendicular to the Z axis.
If it is off, it causes major strain on parts...

I've had GREAT fun with this head. I print PLA and PETG.

But, Try and understand how everything works...

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## clough42

> I've been playing a lot with Auto Bed Leveling and Mesh Bed Leveling on a non-makerfarm printer.
> 
> ABL really doesn't work on my system. (Probably because it isn't setup correctly.
> I'm a senior software engineer... It should be easy.)


Which firmware are you using?  I have working config files for a couple of versions of Marlin if it would help.

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## gddeen

> Which firmware are you using?  I have working config files for a couple of versions of Marlin if it would help.


I'm using RC6 4/20/16 ... I had configured auto bed leveling on that but it doesn't DO anything.
I switched that to Mesh Bed Leveling with a Z Stop. (You have to level it with a piece of paper.
It ignores the Z-probe for G29 S1 or S2.)  And somehow M420 S1 has to actually enable it???
It doesn't really 'say' in the code. (firmware. One is supposed to know.)
BUT, RC6 lowers the probe and smashes it into the bed (ignoring the z-probe) with a G28 X Y:G28 Z
---

Mesh bed level really doesn't know where the probe is. It assumes one levels with a piece of paper.
But it now uses the probe (but doesn't know if actually isn't even over the bed, how high, etc. Nightmare.)

Auto Bed Level knows where that probe REALLY is. But, takes the nozzle and grinds it into the bed (because
it actually isn't doing any Z adjustment...)

--

However, I went and fixed the firmware. But, my X axis NEEDs to be level or all heck breaks loose. So I shove
a shim to try and get the nozzles level... They are perfect right now. I'm using MBL not ABL. I have a Z min stop,
a Z probe, min and max stops all around.

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## clough42

> I'm using RC6 4/20/16 ... I had configured auto bed leveling on that but it doesn't DO anything.
> I switched that to Mesh Bed Leveling with a Z Stop. (You have to level it with a piece of paper.
> It ignores the Z-probe for G29 S1 or S2.)  And somehow M420 S1 has to actually enable it???
> It doesn't really 'say' in the code. (firmware. One is supposed to know.)
> BUT, RC6 lowers the probe and smashes it into the bed (ignoring the z-probe) with a G28 X Y:G28 Z


Huh.  That's weird.

Here's the Configuration.h file I'm using with RC3 on my 12".

https://github.com/clough42/Marlin/b...onfiguration.h

If you use this, check the thermistor settings.  I'm running an industrial silicone heater and some other odd stuff.


And this is my start GCODE:



```
M80  ; power on
M42 P5 S255 ; light on
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed to heat up
M104 S[first_layer_temperature_0] T0 ; start heating T0
M104 S[first_layer_temperature_1] T1 ; start heating T1
G1 Z15 F120 ; lift nozzle
G28 ; home X and Y axes
G29 ; auto bed level
G1 X313 Y12 F15000 ; move to side
G1 Z0 ; Level for wipe
M109 S[first_layer_temperature_0] T0 ; wait for heat
M109 S[first_layer_temperature_1] T1 ; wait for heat
G90 ; absolute
T0 ; extruder 0
G92 E0
G1 E12 F50 ; extrude
G1 X0 F15000 ; wipe
G1 Y15 ; slightly forward so other wipe won't overlap
T1 ; extruder 1
G92 E0 ; reset extrude
G1 X0 E12 F50 ; extrude
G1 X250 F15000 ; wipe
```

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## gddeen

Thanks.

- Filament was ALWAYS breaking and getting crumpled up in the hotends. 
I fixed this by building a pipe from the hotend to the base.  There was too much play.

- Keeping the nozzles level is now the biggest trick. Setting it once, easy enough. But I need
something slightly faster, accurate and repeatable. Now I shove a shim, tighten, move to bed,
measure, move back up and repeat until close.

- I've got mesh bed leveling working and setup up BED Z and he other parameters.
I fixed that by just turning on SAFE_HOMING. A G28 uses the probe. But, when almost anything
happens, MBL is turned off again. M502: G29 S1: G29 S2: M500 sets it on.
(But the Z axis isn't rotating like it should... Which is OK. The bed is level to .15 anyway.)

- I went to 24V it just took way too long to heat up the bed. (Had to adjust PID and PWM rates
so extruders don't burn out prematurely.) All fans get PWM modified to run at half current or so.

-------

I'm back to the point where I can use the printer again.

------
Next I'll fix ABL...

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## gddeen

I can BARELY tell the difference between YOURs and mine...

config.jpgUntitled 6.jpg

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## clough42

> I can BARELY tell the difference between YOURs and mine...
> 
> config.jpgUntitled 6.jpg


I can see why that might be confusing.  They're pretty close.

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## gddeen

I like just printing OOZ Shields too.

2016-05-13 09.26.47.jpg

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## gddeen

This test print is a little better...

2016-05-13 09.50.24.jpg
I find several type of 2 color dual extrusion objects. Side by side stuff (embedded) and overlapping.

I use two different types of nozzles, one very pointy and one flat.

Questions:
I set my steps per unit to 660...  I find a flow rate of 80% in Cura (not from printer) works well.

- Should I remove nozzle, set to extrude 300mm, measure and repeat until it is exactly 300 mm?

Or, should I calculate 80% of the cross sectional area by length (volume) and use THAT as length?

- Different filaments PET-G, verses pure PLA, verses other PLA have different flow
rates at different temperature/pressure extrusions. Noticably so... I use flow rate
on the printer to correct (that affects RETRACTION!!!)

A) Is there a formulae for setting temperature / flow rate?

B) Does one switch to hardware retraction or just overkill it in cura so lowering the flow rate won't leave filament too close to the nozzle causing more ooze?

- Changing 660 steps per mm unit to 614 decreases or increases the amount of filament extruded?




```
// GDD // Explanations are here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunte...ibration_Guide
    // GDD //----------------------------------------------------------My Settings ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    // GDD // NEMA 17 with standard pitch M8 threaded rod:
    // GDD //(200 * 16) / 1.25 = 2560
    // GDD // NEMA 17 with SAE 5/16" threaded rod. It has 18 threads per inch (25.4mm / 18):
    // GDD //(200 16) / (25.4 / 18) = 2267.7165355
    // GDD // E-Steps: small_gear (motor) drives big_gear turns hob_bolt friction pushes filement.
    // GDD // e_steps_per_mm = (motor_steps_per_rev driver_microstep) (big_gear_teeth / small_gear_teeth) / (hob_effective_diameter pi)
    // GDD = (200steps/rev x 16microsteps) * (80teeth / 20teeth) / (6.325 mm * 3.14159) = 644.2
    // GDD James Clough (Manufacturer of hob gear & Itty Bitty Flex Extruder) suggests starting at 615


    // default settings

    #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {80,80,2560,660.0}
```

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## clough42

Gary,

I get the best results with two identical hot ends.  If you're trying to mix and match, you can probably make it work, but you're making it harder on yourself.  I find that the same filament needs different settings in different hot ends--even temperature.  ABS that prints great at 245C in a 3mm Hexagon may need 255C in a 1.75mm E3Dv6 to get the same layer adhesion.

I guess the real question is what you're trying to accomplish.  If you want to *play with a 3D printer*, by all means buy whatever strikes your fancy and have fun tuning and trying.  If you want to *make thing**s with a 3D printer*, I recommend getting a matched pair of genuine E3Dv6 hot ends in 1.75mm and climbing the learning curve once.

As far as adjustment, I get as close to 1:1 filament movement as practical with the E-Steps setting in the Marlin firmware and then tune from there based on how the prints are turning out.  I don't typically tune in the slicer.  I just dial the E-Steps up and down with the printer control panel.  If the top is a little overfilled, I turn it down.  If it's got gaps, I turn it up.  If I have layer adhesion problems, I make sure that my extrusion width is at least 120% of the nozzle size, and then turn it up slightly or raise the temperature.

If you're using my hobbed bolts in a 4:1 drive extruder (all of the Itty Bitty extruders) I recommend starting at 615.  My printers are all set between 600 and 625.  The differences are probably just due to the tolerances on the 3mm and 1.75mm filament I have.

James




> This test print is a little better...
> 
> 2016-05-13 09.50.24.jpg
> I find several type of 2 color dual extrusion objects. Side by side stuff (embedded) and overlapping.
> 
> I use two different types of nozzles, one very pointy and one flat.
> 
> Questions:
> I set my steps per unit to 660...  I find a flow rate of 80% in Cura (not from printer) works well.
> ...

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## clough42

> This test print is a little better...
> 
> 2016-05-13 09.50.24.jpg


Yes, that's a lot better.  It still looks a little overextruded to me.  Here's an example of one I pulled out of my scrap box:

IMG_2552.jpg

This one is definitely underextruded.  I think it was printed with eSteps set at 610.  The top isn't quite filled in and the centers of the letters aren't closed.  But it is clean.

There's a little curling of the bottom layers where the 45 degree overhang is because I wasn't running a cooling fan for this print.

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## clough42

Here is a double extruder print I did last week.

IMG_2550.jpgIMG_2554.jpg

I printed this with the Itty Bitty Double FLEX v2, two 1.75mm E3Dv6 hot ends and my custom milled bolts.  Layer height is .2mm, print speed was 80mm/s.  It was sliced with Simplify3D with the ooze shield.  This was mostly an experiment to see how well the ooze shield would protect a print with lots of crazy curves.  There isn't much it can do when you're printing white, and the purple nozzle is rubbing on a white part of the print, so there are a few imperfections, but overall I'm very pleased with the result.  I did no temperature tuning.  Both nozzles were running at 255C, so there's definitely opportunity to reduce ooze with temps, but this was just a test of the ooze shield.

You can see that the top edges aren't quite filled in.  This was also printed with eSteps at 610.  Something like 625 would probably be much better.

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## hernejj

My parts kit arrives tonight  :Smile:  I am planning on staying with Marlin 1.1.0 RC5. Does anyone happen to have a config I can start with? I tried diffing mine with the default config that Clough42 provides in his preconfigured Marlin download but there have been so many changes to Marlin it is impossible to see what is related to a dual extruder setup vs just cleanup/additions to the config file.

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## clough42

> My parts kit arrives tonight  I am planning on staying with Marlin 1.1.0 RC5. Does anyone happen to have a config I can start with? I tried diffing mine with the default config that Clough42 provides in his preconfigured Marlin download but there have been so many changes to Marlin it is impossible to see what is related to a dual extruder setup vs just cleanup/additions to the config file.


Sorry for the very late reply.  I didn't get a notification, or if I did, I didn't see it.

Here's what I'm using on my 12" double right now:  https://github.com/clough42/Marlin/b...onfiguration.h

I think that was for RC4, but it should be a lot closer than the stuff currently on my web site.

----------


## gddeen

And here is another example you can use. Both Auto Bed Leveling and Mesh Bed Leveling work. But, Mesh Bed Leveling
needs to be limited to 2x2 or 4 points so a single plane is created (so it mimics ABL).

I've changed PID values because I went to 24v.
I have a ZProbe on Ymax. I have Xmin,  Ymin, Zmin, Zmax.
Zmin is set to nozzle touching bed.

SORRY for the HUGH post.

/**
 * Marlin 3D Printer Firmware
 * Copyright (C) 2016 MarlinFirmware [https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin]
 *
 * Based on Sprinter and grbl.
 * Copyright (C) 2011 Camiel Gubbels / Erik van der Zalm
 *
 * This program is free software: you can redistribute it and/or modify
 * it under the terms of the GNU General Public License as published by
 * the Free Software Foundation, either version 3 of the License, or
 * (at your option) any later version.
 *
 * This program is distributed in the hope that it will be useful,
 * but WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; without even the implied warranty of
 * MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE.  See the
 * GNU General Public License for more details.
 *
 * You should have received a copy of the GNU General Public License
 * along with this program.  If not, see <http://www.gnu.org/licenses/>.
 *
 */

/**
 * Configuration.h
 *
 * Basic settings such as:
 *
 * - Type of electronics
 * - Type of temperature sensor
 * - Printer geometry
 * - Endstop configuration
 * - LCD controller
 * - Extra features
 *
 * Advanced settings can be found in Configuration_adv.h
 *
 */
#ifndef CONFIGURATION_H
#define CONFIGURATION_H

#include "boards.h"
#include "macros.h"

#undef Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN // GDD
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN 15 // GDD y Max, to ground...

// GDD 02/18/2016 Double extruder support with Z Arm stop on HICTop Prusa with MKS BASE Version 1.3 Arduino Board with AtMEGA2560 16AU processor
//                LCD2004 controller and SDCard
//                - Z isn't stored across boots? It should at least keep it when PS Off!!!
//                - M206 Z axis isn't loaded with M501, maybe M500 isn't saving?
//                - How the HECK does one get to [0,0,0] if position is at [30,30,30] and unknown? When G28 says HOME, (endstops) [X,Y,Z] should be set! G92 My friend...
#define ITTY_BITTY_DOUBLE_FLEX // GDD
#define ADDED_Z_PROBE // GDD
#define HICTOP_PRUSA_i3_3DP08 // GDD

//==================================================  =========================
//============================= Getting Started =============================
//==================================================  =========================

/**
 * Here are some standard links for getting your machine calibrated:
 *
 * http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration
 * http://youtu.be/wAL9d7FgInk
 * http://calculator.josefprusa.cz
 * http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunte...ibration_Guide
 * http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5573
 * https://sites.google.com/site/reprap...of-your-reprap
 * http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:298812
 */

//==================================================  =========================
//============================= DELTA Printer ===============================
//==================================================  =========================
// For a Delta printer replace the configuration files with the files in the
// example_configurations/delta directory.
//

//==================================================  =========================
//============================= SCARA Printer ===============================
//==================================================  =========================
// For a Scara printer replace the configuration files with the files in the
// example_configurations/SCARA directory.
//

// @section info

#if ENABLED(USE_AUTOMATIC_VERSIONING)
  #include "_Version.h"
#else
  #include "Version.h"
#endif

// User-specified version info of this build to display in [Pronterface, etc] terminal window during
// startup. Implementation of an idea by Prof Braino to inform user that any changes made to this
// build by the user have been successfully uploaded into firmware.
#define STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR "(none, default config)" // Who made the changes.
#define SHOW_BOOTSCREEN
#define STRING_SPLASH_LINE1 SHORT_BUILD_VERSION // will be shown during bootup in line 1
#define STRING_SPLASH_LINE2 STRING_DISTRIBUTION_DATE // will be shown during bootup in line 2

// @section machine

// SERIAL_PORT selects which serial port should be used for communication with the host.
// This allows the connection of wireless adapters (for instance) to non-default port pins.
// Serial port 0 is still used by the Arduino bootloader regardless of this setting.
// :[0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7]
#define SERIAL_PORT 0

// This determines the communication speed of the printer
// :[2400,9600,19200,38400,57600,115200,250000]
#define BAUDRATE 250000

// Enable the Bluetooth serial interface on AT90USB devices
//#define BLUETOOTH

// The following define selects which electronics board you have.
// Please choose the name from boards.h that matches your setup
#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
//  #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB
    #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_13
#endif

// Optional custom name for your RepStrap or other custom machine
// Displayed in the LCD "Ready" message
//#define CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME "3D Printer"
#define CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME "RC6 042616" //GDD

// Define this to set a unique identifier for this printer, (Used by some programs to differentiate between machines)
// You can use an online service to generate a random UUID. (eg http://www.uuidgenerator.net/version4)
//#define MACHINE_UUID "00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000000"
#define MACHINE_UUID "033c7bda-411a-4305-a1b4-b5d8504f1257" //GDD

// This defines the number of extruders
// :[1,2,3,4]
#define EXTRUDERS 2

// Offset of the extruders (uncomment if using more than one and relying on firmware to position when changing).
// The offset has to be X=0, Y=0 for the extruder 0 hotend (default extruder).
// For the other hotends it is their distance from the extruder 0 hotend.
//#define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 20.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis
//#define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 5.00}  // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis
#define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 26.465} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis
#define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 0.905}  // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis

//// The following define selects which power supply you have. Please choose the one that matches your setup
// 1 = ATX
// 2 = X-Box 360 203Watts (the blue wire connected to PS_ON and the red wire to VCC)
// :{1:'ATX',2:'X-Box 360'}

#define POWER_SUPPLY 1

// Define this to have the electronics keep the power supply off on startup. If you don't know what this is leave it.
//#define PS_DEFAULT_OFF

// @section temperature

//==================================================  =========================
//============================= Thermal Settings ============================
//==================================================  =========================
//
//--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
//
//// Temperature sensor settings:
// -3 is thermocouple with MAX31855 (only for sensor 0)
// -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)
// -1 is thermocouple with AD595
// 0 is not used
// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
// 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
// 3 is Mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup)
// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
// 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 71 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAF-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)
// 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)
// 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)
// 11 is 100k beta 3950 1% thermistor (4.7k pullup)
// 12 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup) (calibrated for Makibox hot bed)
// 13 is 100k Hisens 3950  1% up to 300°C for hotend "Simple ONE " & "Hotend "All In ONE"
// 20 is the PT100 circuit found in the Ultimainboard V2.x
// 60 is 100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermistor beta=3950
// 70 is the 100K thermistor found in the bq Hephestos 2
//
//    1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k
//                          (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
// 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)
// 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)
// 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (1k pullup)
//
// 1047 is Pt1000 with 4k7 pullup
// 1010 is Pt1000 with 1k pullup (non standard)
// 147 is Pt100 with 4k7 pullup
// 110 is Pt100 with 1k pullup (non standard)
// 998 and 999 are Dummy Tables. They will ALWAYS read 25°C or the temperature defined below.
//     Use it for Testing or Development purposes. NEVER for production machine.
//#define DUMMY_THERMISTOR_998_VALUE 25
//#define DUMMY_THERMISTOR_999_VALUE 100
// :{ '0': "Not used", '4': "10k !! do not use for a hotend. Bad resolution at high temp. !!", '1': "100k / 4.7k - EPCOS", '51': "100k / 1k - EPCOS", '6': "100k / 4.7k EPCOS - Not as accurate as Table 1", '5': "100K / 4.7k - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head)", '7': "100k / 4.7k Honeywell 135-104LAG-J01", '71': "100k / 4.7k Honeywell 135-104LAF-J01", '8': "100k / 4.7k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT", '9': "100k / 4.7k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1", '10': "100k / 4.7k RS 198-961", '11': "100k / 4.7k beta 3950 1%", '12': "100k / 4.7k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (calibrated for Makibox hot bed)", '13': "100k Hisens 3950  1% up to 300°C for hotend 'Simple ONE ' & hotend 'All In ONE'", '60': "100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermistor beta=3950", '55': "100k / 1k - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head)", '2': "200k / 4.7k - ATC Semitec 204GT-2", '52': "200k / 1k - ATC Semitec 204GT-2", '-3': "Thermocouple + MAX31855 (only for sensor 0)", '-2': "Thermocouple + MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)", '-1': "Thermocouple + AD595", '3': "Mendel-parts / 4.7k", '1047': "Pt1000 / 4.7k", '1010': "Pt1000 / 1k (non standard)", '20': "PT100 (Ultimainboard V2.x)", '147': "Pt100 / 4.7k", '110': "Pt100 / 1k (non-standard)", '998': "Dummy 1", '999': "Dummy 2" }
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_3 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1

// This makes temp sensor 1 a redundant sensor for sensor 0. If the temperatures difference between these sensors is to high the print will be aborted.
//#define TEMP_SENSOR_1_AS_REDUNDANT
#define MAX_REDUNDANT_TEMP_SENSOR_DIFF 60 // 10

// Extruder temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success
#define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 10  // (seconds)
#define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 3       // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one
#define TEMP_WINDOW     1       // (degC) Window around target to start the residency timer x degC early.

// Bed temperature must be close to target for this long before M190 returns success
#define TEMP_BED_RESIDENCY_TIME 10  // (seconds)
#define TEMP_BED_HYSTERESIS 4 //3       // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one
#define TEMP_BED_WINDOW     2 //1      // (degC) Window around target to start the residency timer x degC early.

// The minimal temperature defines the temperature below which the heater will not be enabled It is used
// to check that the wiring to the thermistor is not broken.
// Otherwise this would lead to the heater being powered on all the time.
#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_1_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_2_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_3_MINTEMP 5
#define BED_MINTEMP 5

// When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but *NOT* from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 290
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 290
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_3_MAXTEMP 275
#define BED_MAXTEMP 150

// If you want the M105 heater power reported in watts, define the BED_WATTS, and (shared for all extruders) EXTRUDER_WATTS
//#define EXTRUDER_WATTS (12.0*12.0/6.7) // P=U^2/R
//#define BED_WATTS (12.0*12.0/1.1)      // P=U^2/R

//==================================================  =========================
//============================= PID Settings ================================
//==================================================  =========================
// PID Tuning Guide here: http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning

// Comment the following line to disable PID and enable bang-bang.
// GDD DO NOT use these PID values they are for GDD only
#define PIDTEMP
//#define BANG_MAX 255 // limits current to nozzle while in bang-bang mode; 255=full current
#define BANG_MAX 90 // GDD limits current to nozzle while in bang-bang mode; 255=full current
#define PID_MAX BANG_MAX // limits current to nozzle while PID is active (see PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE below); 255=full current
#if ENABLED(PIDTEMP)
  //#define PID_AUTOTUNE_MENU // Add PID Autotune to the LCD "Temperature" menu to run M303 and apply the result.
  //#define PID_DEBUG // Sends debug data to the serial port.
  //#define PID_OPENLOOP 1 // Puts PID in open loop. M104/M140 sets the output power from 0 to PID_MAX
  //#define SLOW_PWM_HEATERS // PWM with very low frequency (roughly 0.125Hz=8s) and minimum state time of approximately 1s useful for heaters driven by a relay
  //#define PID_PARAMS_PER_EXTRUDER // Uses separate PID parameters for each extruder (useful for mismatched extruders)
                                    // Set/get with gcode: M301 E[extruder number, 0-2]
//  #define PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE 10 // If the temperature difference between the target temperature and the actual temperature
  #define PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE 40 // If the temperature difference between the target temperature and the actual temperature
                                  // is more than PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE then the PID will be shut off and the heater will be set to min/max.
  #define PID_INTEGRAL_DRIVE_MAX PID_MAX  //limit for the integral term
  #define K1 0.95 //smoothing factor within the PID

  // If you are using a pre-configured hotend then you can use one of the value sets by uncommenting it
  // Ultimaker
//  #define  DEFAULT_Kp 22.2
//  #define  DEFAULT_Ki 1.08
//  #define  DEFAULT_Kd 114

// Switched to 24 V, lowered PWM_MAX, 1st couldn't keep 240 going. redid higher PWM
// M502
// M303 P0 S240 C8
// M500

  #define  DEFAULT_Kp 3.99 // 4.2
  #define  DEFAULT_Ki 0.26 // 0.26
  #define  DEFAULT_Kd 15.6 // 17.02

  // MakerGear
  //#define  DEFAULT_Kp 7.0
  //#define  DEFAULT_Ki 0.1
  //#define  DEFAULT_Kd 12

  // Mendel Parts V9 on 12V
  //#define  DEFAULT_Kp 63.0
  //#define  DEFAULT_Ki 2.25
  //#define  DEFAULT_Kd 440

#endif // PIDTEMP

//==================================================  =========================
//============================= PID > Bed Temperature Control ===============
//==================================================  =========================
// Select PID or bang-bang with PIDTEMPBED. If bang-bang, BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING will enable hysteresis
//
// Uncomment this to enable PID on the bed. It uses the same frequency PWM as the extruder.
// If your PID_dT is the default, and correct for your hardware/configuration, that means 7.689Hz,
// which is fine for driving a square wave into a resistive load and does not significantly impact you FET heating.
// This also works fine on a Fotek SSR-10DA Solid State Relay into a 250W heater.
// If your configuration is significantly different than this and you don't understand the issues involved, you probably
// shouldn't use bed PID until someone else verifies your hardware works.
// If this is enabled, find your own PID constants below.
//#define PIDTEMPBED

//#define BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING

// This sets the max power delivered to the bed, and replaces the HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER option.
// all forms of bed control obey this (PID, bang-bang, bang-bang with hysteresis)
// setting this to anything other than 255 enables a form of PWM to the bed just like HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER did,
// so you shouldn't use it unless you are OK with PWM on your bed.  (see the comment on enabling PIDTEMPBED)
#define MAX_BED_POWER 255 // limits duty cycle to bed; 255=full current

#if ENABLED(PIDTEMPBED)

  //#define PID_BED_DEBUG // Sends debug data to the serial port.

  #define PID_BED_INTEGRAL_DRIVE_MAX MAX_BED_POWER //limit for the integral term

  //120V 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
  //from FOPDT model - kp=.39 Tp=405 Tdead=66, Tc set to 79.2, aggressive factor of .15 (vs .1, 1, 10)
  #define  DEFAULT_bedKp 10.00
  #define  DEFAULT_bedKi .023
  #define  DEFAULT_bedKd 305.4

  //120V 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
  //from pidautotune
  //#define  DEFAULT_bedKp 97.1
  //#define  DEFAULT_bedKi 1.41
  //#define  DEFAULT_bedKd 1675.16

  // FIND YOUR OWN: "M303 E-1 C8 S90" to run autotune on the bed at 90 degreesC for 8 cycles.
#endif // PIDTEMPBED

// @section extruder

//this prevents dangerous Extruder moves, i.e. if the temperature is under the limit
//can be software-disabled for whatever purposes by
#define PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE
//if PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE is on, you can still disable (uncomment) very long bits of extrusion separately.
#define PREVENT_LENGTHY_EXTRUDE

#define EXTRUDE_MINTEMP 165
#define EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH (X_MAX_LENGTH+Y_MAX_LENGTH) //prevent extrusion of very large distances.

//==================================================  =========================
//======================== Thermal Runaway Protection =======================
//==================================================  =========================

/**
 * Thermal Protection protects your printer from damage and fire if a
 * thermistor falls out or temperature sensors fail in any way.
 *
 * The issue: If a thermistor falls out or a temperature sensor fails,
 * Marlin can no longer sense the actual temperature. Since a disconnected
 * thermistor reads as a low temperature, the firmware will keep the heater on.
 *
 * If you get "Thermal Runaway" or "Heating failed" errors the
 * details can be tuned in Configuration_adv.h
 */

//#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS // Enable thermal protection for all extruders
//#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED     // Enable thermal protection for the heated bed

//==================================================  =========================
//============================= Mechanical Settings =========================
//==================================================  =========================

// @section machine

// Uncomment this option to enable CoreXY kinematics
//#define COREXY

// Uncomment this option to enable CoreXZ kinematics
//#define COREXZ

// Enable this option for Toshiba steppers
//#define CONFIG_STEPPERS_TOSHIBA

//==================================================  =========================
//============================== Endstop Settings ===========================
//==================================================  =========================

// @section homing

// Specify here all the endstop connectors that are connected to any endstop or probe.
// Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the
// extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes.
#define USE_XMIN_PLUG
#define USE_YMIN_PLUG
#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG
//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG

// coarse Endstop Settings
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors

#if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)
  // fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined
  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE
#endif

// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup).
const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

//==================================================  =========================
//============================= Z Probe Options =============================
//==================================================  =========================

// Enable Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP to use _both_ a Z Probe and a Z-min-endstop on the same machine.
// With this option the Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN will only be used for probing, never for homing.
//
// *** PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BELOW FOR SAFETY! ***
//
// To continue using the Z-min-endstop for homing (G28)gdd, be sure to disable Z_SAFE_HOMING.
// Example: To park the head outside the bed area when homing with G28. (gdd No, probe isn't over bed. IT IGNORES Z_MIN!))
//
// To use a separate Z probe, your board must define a Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN. (I do gdd)
//
// For a servo-based Z probe, you must set up servo support below, including
// NUM_SERVOS, Z_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR and SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES.
//
// - RAMPS 1.3/1.4 boards may be able to use the 5V, GND, and Aux4->D32 pin.
// - Use 5V for powered (usu. inductive) sensors.
// - Otherwise connect:
//   - normally-closed switches to GND and D32.
//   - normally-open switches to 5V and D32.
//
// Normally-closed switches are advised and are the default.
//
// The Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN sets the Arduino pin to use. (See your board's pins file.)
// Since the RAMPS Aux4->D32 pin maps directly to the Arduino D32 pin, D32 is the
// default pin for all RAMPS-based boards. Some other boards map differently.
// To set or change the pin for your board, edit the appropriate pins_XXXXX.h file.
//
// WARNING:
// Setting the wrong pin may have unexpected and potentially disastrous consequences.
// Use with caution and do your homework.
//
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP

// Enable Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN to use the Z_MIN_PIN for your Z_MIN_PROBE.
// The Z_MIN_PIN will then be used for both Z-homing and probing.
//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN

// To use a probe you must enable one of the two options above!

// This option disables the use of the Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN
// To enable the Z probe pin but disable its use, uncomment the line below. This only affects a
// Z probe switch if you have a separate Z min endstop also and have activated Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP above.
// If you're using the Z MIN endstop connector for your Z probe, this has no effect.
//#define DISABLE_Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP

// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1
// :{0:'Low',1:'High'}
#define X_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0
#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders

// Disables axis stepper immediately when it's not being used.
// WARNING: When motors turn off there is a chance of losing position accuracy!
#define DISABLE_X false
#define DISABLE_Y false
#define DISABLE_Z false
// Warn on display about possibly reduced accuracy
//#define DISABLE_REDUCED_ACCURACY_WARNING

// @section extruder

#define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER true //disable only inactive extruders and keep active extruder enabled

// @section machine

// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.
#define INVERT_X_DIR false
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false
//true
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true
//false

// @section extruder

// For direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false.
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false
#define INVERT_E3_DIR false

// @section homing
#define MIN_Z_HEIGHT_FOR_HOMING 15 // (in mm) Minimal z height before homing (G28) for Z clearance above the bed, clamps, ...
                                    // Be sure you have this distance over your Z_MAX_POS in case. (You are at Z Max you cant home because it will hit top)ggg
#define MIN_Z_HEIGHT_FOR_XYPOINTS 0 // GDD This is as height above MESH_BED_SLEW_Z for each G29 S2 point when no Z probe is used

// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
// :[-1,1]
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

#define min_software_endstops true // If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS.
#define max_software_endstops true  // If true, axis won't move to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.

// @section machine

// Travel limits after homing (units are in mm)
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS 204
#define Y_MAX_POS 255
#define Z_MAX_POS 210

//==================================================  =========================
//========================= Filament Runout Sensor ==========================
//==================================================  =========================
//#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR // Uncomment for defining a filament runout sensor such as a mechanical or opto endstop to check the existence of filament
                                 // In RAMPS uses servo pin 2. Can be changed in pins file. For other boards pin definition should be made.
                                 // It is assumed that when logic high = filament available
                                 //                    when logic  low = filament ran out
#if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR)
  const bool FIL_RUNOUT_INVERTING = true;  // Should be uncommented and true or false should assigned
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_FIL_RUNOUT // Uncomment to use internal pullup for filament runout pins if the sensor is defined.
  #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT "M600"
#endif

//==================================================  =========================
//============================ Mesh Bed Leveling ============================
//==================================================  =========================

// GDD (TEST ABL) #define MESH_BED_LEVELING    // Enable mesh bed leveling.
#define QUICK_HOME
#if ENABLED(MESH_BED_LEVELING)
  #define MESH_MIN_X 30
  #define MESH_MAX_X (X_MAX_POS - (MESH_MIN_X)-10) // GDD 
  #define MESH_MIN_Y 30
  #define MESH_MAX_Y (Y_MAX_POS - (MESH_MIN_Y))
  #define MESH_NUM_X_POINTS 2  // Don't use more than 7 points per axis, implementation limited.
  #define MESH_NUM_Y_POINTS 2
  #define MESH_HOME_SEARCH_Z 13.9  // Z after Home (G28, G28 Z,G29), bed somewhere below but above 0.0. GDD If 6, Nozzle moves 6mm toward bed
  #define MESH_HOME_SLEW_Z 4 // GDD Height to move to next point at this height, and move to that height at point

  #define MANUAL_BED_LEVELING  // Add display menu option for bed leveling.

  #if ENABLED(MANUAL_BED_LEVELING)
    #define MBL_Z_STEP 0.025  // Step size while manually probing Z axis.
  #endif  // MANUAL_BED_LEVELING

#endif  // MESH_BED_LEVELING

//==================================================  =========================
//============================ Bed Auto Leveling ============================
//==================================================  =========================

// @section bedlevel

#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_FEATURE // GDD Delete the comment to enable (remove // at the start of the line)
#define DEBUG_LEVELING_FEATURE
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_REPEATABILITY_TEST  // If not commented out, Z Probe Repeatability test will be included if Auto Bed Leveling is Enabled.

#if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_FEATURE)

  // There are 2 different ways to specify probing locations:
  //
  // - "grid" mode
  //   Probe several points in a rectangular grid.
  //   You specify the rectangle and the density of sample points.
  //   This mode is preferred because there are more measurements.
  //
  // - "3-point" mode
  //   Probe 3 arbitrary points on the bed (that aren't collinear)
  //   You specify the XY coordinates of all 3 points.

  // Enable this to sample the bed in a grid (least squares solution).
  // Note: this feature generates 10KB extra code size.
  #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID

  #if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID)

    #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 5
    //15
    #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 150
    //170
    #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20
    #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 200
    //170

    #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10 // The Z probe minimum square sides can be no smaller than this.

    // Set the number of grid points per dimension.
    // You probably don't need more than 3 (squared=9).
    #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS 3

  #else  // !AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID

    // Arbitrary points to probe.
    // A simple cross-product is used to estimate the plane of the bed.
    #define ABL_PROBE_PT_1_X 15
    #define ABL_PROBE_PT_1_Y 180
    #define ABL_PROBE_PT_2_X 15
    #define ABL_PROBE_PT_2_Y 20
    #define ABL_PROBE_PT_3_X 170
    #define ABL_PROBE_PT_3_Y 20

  #endif // AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID

  // Z Probe to nozzle (X,Y) offset, relative to (0, 0).
  // X and Y offsets must be integers.
  //
  // In the following example the X and Y offsets are both positive:
  // #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10
  // #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10
  //
  //    +-- BACK ---+
  //    |           |
  //  L |    (+) P  | R <-- probe (20,20)
  //  E |           | I
  //  F | (-) N (+) | G <-- nozzle (10,10)
  //  T |           | H
  //    |    (-)    | T
  //    |           |
  //    O-- FRONT --+
  //  (0,0)
  #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -25 //10  // X offset: -left  +right  [of the nozzle]
  #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -5 //10  // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
  #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -13.9 //0   // Z offset: -below +above  [the nozzle]

  #define XY_TRAVEL_SPEED 8000         // X and Y axis travel speed between probes, in mm/min.

  #define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 17 //15   // How much the Z axis will be raised before traveling to the first probing point.
  #define Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS 4 //5  // How much the Z axis will be raised when traveling from between next probing points.
  #define Z_RAISE_AFTER_PROBING 5 //15    // How much the Z axis will be raised after the last probing point.

  #define Z_PROBE_END_SCRIPT "G90\nG1 X0 Y0 Z10 F12000" // These commands will be executed in the end of G29 routine.

  //#define Z_PROBE_END_SCRIPT "G1 Z10 F12000\nG1 X15 Y330\nG1 Z0.5\nG1 Z10" // These commands will be executed in the end of G29 routine.
                                                                             // Useful to retract a deployable Z probe.

  // Probes are sensors/switches that need to be activated before they can be used
  // and deactivated after their use.
  // Allen Key Probes, Servo Probes, Z-Sled Probes, FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE, ... . You have to activate one of these for the AUTO_BED_LEVELING_FEATURE

  // A fix mounted probe, like the normal inductive probe, must be deactivated to go below Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER
  // when the hardware endstops are active.
  //#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE

  // A Servo Probe can be defined in the servo section below.

  // An Allen Key Probe is currently predefined only in the delta example configurations.

  // Enable if you have a Z probe mounted on a sled like those designed by Charles Bell.
  //#define Z_PROBE_SLED
  //#define SLED_DOCKING_OFFSET 5 // The extra distance the X axis must travel to pickup the sled. 0 should be fine but you can push it further if you'd like.

  // A Mechanical Probe is any probe that either doesn't deploy or needs manual deployment
  // For example any setup that uses the nozzle itself as a probe.
  //#define MECHANICAL_PROBE

  // If you've enabled AUTO_BED_LEVELING_FEATURE and are using the Z Probe for Z Homing, (G28 Z) gdd
  // it is highly recommended you also enable Z_SAFE_HOMING below!

#endif // AUTO_BED_LEVELING_FEATURE


// @section homing

// The position of the homing switches
//#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS  // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
//#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0  // If defined, the center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)

// Manual homing switch locations:
// For deltabots this means top and center of the Cartesian print volume.
#if ENABLED(MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS)
  #define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0
  #define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 0
  #define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0
  //#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 402 // For delta: Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing.
#endif

// Use "Z Safe Homing" to avoid homing with a Z probe outside the bed area.
//
// With this feature enabled:
//
// - Allow Z homing only after X and Y homing AND stepper drivers still enabled.
// - If stepper drivers time out, it will need X and Y homing again before Z homing.
// - Position the Z probe in a defined XY point before Z Homing when homing all axes (G28).
// - Prevent Z homing when the Z probe is outside bed area.
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING

#if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)
  #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT ((X_MIN_POS + X_MAX_POS) / 2)    // X point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28).
  #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT ((Y_MIN_POS + Y_MAX_POS) / 2)    // Y point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28).
#endif


// @section movement

/**
 * MOVEMENT SETTINGS
 */

// GDD // Explanations are here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunte...ibration_Guide
// GDD //----------------------------------------------------------My Settings ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
// GDD // NEMA 17 with standard pitch M8 threaded rod:
// GDD //(200 * 16) / 1.25 = 2560
// GDD // NEMA 17 with SAE 5/16" threaded rod. It has 18 threads per inch (25.4mm / 18):
// GDD //(200 16) / (25.4 / 18) = 2267.7165355
// GDD // E-Steps:
// GDD // e_steps_per_mm = (motor_steps_per_rev driver_microstep) (big_gear_teeth / small_gear_teeth) / (hob_effective_diameter pi)
// GDD = (200steps/rev x 16microsteps) * (80teeth / 20teeth) / (6.325 mm * 3.14159) = 644.2
// GDD James Clough (Manufacturer of hob gear) suggests starting at 615

#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0}  // set the homing speeds (mm/min)

// default settings

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {80,80,2560,655.8}  // default steps per unit for Ultimaker
//#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {80,80,4000,500}  // default steps per unit for Ultimaker
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          {300, 300, 5, 25}    // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      {3000,3000,100,10000}    // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for Skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.

#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          3000    // X, Y, Z and E acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  3000    // E acceleration in mm/s^2 for retracts
#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION   3000    // X, Y, Z acceleration in mm/s^2 for travel (non printing) moves

// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instantaneously)
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK                14.0 // 20.0    // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK                 0.4     // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_EJERK                 5.0    // (mm/sec)


//==================================================  ===========================
//============================= Additional Features ===========================
//==================================================  ===========================

// @section more

// Custom M code points
#define CUSTOM_M_CODES
#if ENABLED(CUSTOM_M_CODES)
  #if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_FEATURE)
    #define CUSTOM_M_CODE_SET_Z_PROBE_OFFSET 851
    #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -20
    #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 20
  #endif
#endif

// @section extras

//
// EEPROM
//
// The microcontroller can store settings in the EEPROM, e.g. max velocity...
// M500 - stores parameters in EEPROM
// M501 - reads parameters from EEPROM (if you need reset them after you changed them temporarily).
// M502 - reverts to the default "factory settings".  You still need to store them in EEPROM afterwards if you want to.
//define this to enable EEPROM support
#define EEPROM_SETTINGS

#if ENABLED(EEPROM_SETTINGS)
  // To disable EEPROM Serial responses and decrease program space by ~1700 byte: comment this out:
  #define EEPROM_CHITCHAT // Please keep turned on if you can.
#endif

//
// Host Keepalive
//
// By default Marlin will send a busy status message to the host
// every couple of seconds when it can't accept commands.
//
#define DISABLE_HOST_KEEPALIVE // Enable this option if your host doesn't like keepalive messages.
#if DISABLED(DISABLE_HOST_KEEPALIVE)
  #define DEFAULT_KEEPALIVE_INTERVAL 2 // Number of seconds between "busy" messages. Set with M113.
#endif

//
// M100 Free Memory Watcher
//
//#define M100_FREE_MEMORY_WATCHER // uncomment to add the M100 Free Memory Watcher for debug purpose

// @section temperature

// Preheat Constants
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 180
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 70
#define PLA_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 0   // Insert Value between 0 and 255

#define ABS_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 240
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 110
#define ABS_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 0   // Insert Value between 0 and 255

//==================================================  ===========================
//============================= LCD and SD support ============================
//==================================================  ===========================

// @section lcd

//
// LCD LANGUAGE
//
// Here you may choose the language used by Marlin on the LCD menus, the following
// list of languages are available:
//    en, pl, fr, de, es, ru, bg, it, pt, pt_utf8, pt-br, pt-br_utf8,
//    fi, an, nl, ca, eu, kana, kana_utf8, cn, cz, test
//
#define LANGUAGE_INCLUDE GENERATE_LANGUAGE_INCLUDE(en)

//
// LCD CHARACTER SET
//
// Choose ONE of the following charset options. This selection depends on
// your physical hardware, so it must match your character-based LCD.
//
// Note: This option is NOT applicable to graphical displays.
//
// To find out what type of display you have:
//  - Compile and upload with the language (above) set to 'test'
//  - Click the controller to view the LCD menu
//
// The LCD will display two lines from the upper half of the character set.
//
// See also https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Ma...i/LCD-Language
//
#define DISPLAY_CHARSET_HD44780_JAPAN        // this is the most common hardware
//#define DISPLAY_CHARSET_HD44780_WESTERN
//#define DISPLAY_CHARSET_HD44780_CYRILLIC

//
// LCD TYPE
//
// You may choose ULTRA_LCD if you have character based LCD with 16x2, 16x4, 20x2,
// 20x4 char/lines or DOGLCD for the full graphics display with 128x64 pixels
// (ST7565R family). (This option will be set automatically for certain displays.)
//
// IMPORTANT NOTE: The U8glib library is required for Full Graphic Display!
//                 https://github.com/olikraus/U8glib_Arduino
//
//#define ULTRA_LCD   // Character based
//#define DOGLCD      // Full graphics display

//
// SD CARD
//
// SD Card support is disabled by default. If your controller has an SD slot,
// you must uncomment the following option or it won't work.
//
#define SDSUPPORT

//
// SD CARD: SPI SPEED
//
// Uncomment ONE of the following items to use a slower SPI transfer
// speed. This is usually required if you're getting volume init errors.
//
//#define SPI_SPEED SPI_HALF_SPEED
//#define SPI_SPEED SPI_QUARTER_SPEED
//#define SPI_SPEED SPI_EIGHTH_SPEED

//
// SD CARD: ENABLE CRC
//
// Use CRC checks and retries on the SD communication.
//
//#define SD_CHECK_AND_RETRY

//
// ENCODER SETTINGS
//
// This option overrides the default number of encoder pulses needed to
// produce one step. Should be increased for high-resolution encoders.
//
//#define ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP 1

//
// Use this option to override the number of step signals required to
// move between next/prev menu items.
//
//#define ENCODER_STEPS_PER_MENU_ITEM 5

//
// This option reverses the encoder direction for navigating LCD menus.
// By default CLOCKWISE == DOWN. With this enabled CLOCKWISE == UP.
//
//#define REVERSE_MENU_DIRECTION

//
// SPEAKER/BUZZER
//
// If you have a speaker that can produce tones, enable it here.
// By default Marlin assumes you have a buzzer with a fixed frequency.
//
//#define SPEAKER

//
// The duration and frequency for the UI feedback sound.
// Set these to 0 to disable audio feedback in the LCD menus.
//
// Note: Test audio output with the G-Code:
//  M300 S<frequency Hz> P<duration ms>
//
//#define LCD_FEEDBACK_FREQUENCY_DURATION_MS 100
//#define LCD_FEEDBACK_FREQUENCY_HZ 1000

//
// CONTROLLER TYPE: Standard
//
// Marlin supports a wide variety of controllers.
// Enable one of the following options to specify your controller.
//

//
// ULTIMAKER Controller.
//
//#define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER

//
// ULTIPANEL as seen on Thingiverse.
//
//#define ULTIPANEL

//
// PanelOne from T3P3 (via RAMPS 1.4 AUX2/AUX3)
// http://reprap.org/wiki/PanelOne
//
//#define PANEL_ONE

//
// MaKr3d Makr-Panel with graphic controller and SD support.
// http://reprap.org/wiki/MaKr3d_MaKrPanel
//
//#define MAKRPANEL

//
// Activate one of these if you have a Panucatt Devices
// Viki 2.0 or mini Viki with Graphic LCD
// http://panucatt.com
//
//#define VIKI2
//#define miniVIKI

//
// Adafruit ST7565 Full Graphic Controller.
// https://github.com/eboston/Adafruit-...ic-Controller/
//
//#define ELB_FULL_GRAPHIC_CONTROLLER

//
// RepRapDiscount Smart Controller.
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller
//
// Note: Usually sold with a white PCB.
//
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER

//
// BQ LCD Smart Controller shipped by
// default with the BQ Hephestos 2 and Witbox 2.
//
//#define BQ_LCD_SMART_CONTROLLER

//
// GADGETS3D G3D LCD/SD Controller
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.3/1.4...eld_with_Panel
//
// Note: Usually sold with a blue PCB.
//
//#define G3D_PANEL

//
// RepRapDiscount FULL GRAPHIC Smart Controller
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscoun...art_Controller
//
//#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER

//
// MakerLab Mini Panel with graphic
// controller and SD support - http://reprap.org/wiki/Mini_panel
//
//#define MINIPANEL

//
// RepRapWorld REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD v1.1
// http://reprapworld.com/?products_det...Path=1591_1626
//
// REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD_MOVE_STEP sets how much should the robot move when a key
// is pressed, a value of 10.0 means 10mm per click.
//
//#define REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD
//#define REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD_MOVE_STEP 10.0

//
// RigidBot Panel V1.0
// http://www.inventapart.com/
//
//#define RIGIDBOT_PANEL

//
// BQ LCD Smart Controller shipped by
// default with the BQ Hephestos 2 and Witbox 2.
//
//#define BQ_LCD_SMART_CONTROLLER

//
// CONTROLLER TYPE: I2C
//
// Note: These controllers require the installation of Arduino's LiquidCrystal_I2C
// library. For more info: https://github.com/kiyoshigawa/LiquidCrystal_I2C
//

//
// Elefu RA Board Control Panel
// http://www.elefu.com/index.php?route...&product_id=53
//
//#define RA_CONTROL_PANEL

//
// Sainsmart YW Robot (LCM1602) LCD Display
//
//#define LCD_I2C_SAINSMART_YWROBOT

//
// Generic LCM1602 LCD adapter
//
//#define LCM1602

//
// PANELOLU2 LCD with status LEDs,
// separate encoder and click inputs.
//
// Note: This controller requires Arduino's LiquidTWI2 library v1.2.3 or later.
// For more info: https://github.com/lincomatic/LiquidTWI2
//
// Note: The PANELOLU2 encoder click input can either be directly connected to
// a pin (if BTN_ENC defined to != -1) or read through I2C (when BTN_ENC == -1).
//
//#define LCD_I2C_PANELOLU2

//
// Panucatt VIKI LCD with status LEDs,
// integrated click & L/R/U/D buttons, separate encoder inputs.
//
//#define LCD_I2C_VIKI

//
// SSD1306 OLED full graphics generic display
//
//#define U8GLIB_SSD1306

//
// CONTROLLER TYPE: Shift register panels
//
// 2 wire Non-latching LCD SR from https://goo.gl/aJJ4sH
// LCD configuration: http://reprap.org/wiki/SAV_3D_LCD
//
//#define SAV_3DLCD

//==================================================  ===========================
//=============================== Extra Features ==============================
//==================================================  ===========================

// @section extras

// Increase the FAN PWM frequency. Removes the PWM noise but increases heating in the FET/Arduino
//#define FAST_PWM_FAN

// Use software PWM to drive the fan, as for the heaters. This uses a very low frequency
// which is not as annoying as with the hardware PWM. On the other hand, if this frequency
// is too low, you should also increment SOFT_PWM_SCALE.
//#define FAN_SOFT_PWM

// Incrementing this by 1 will double the software PWM frequency,
// affecting heaters, and the fan if FAN_SOFT_PWM is enabled.
// However, control resolution will be halved for each increment;
// at zero value, there are 128 effective control positions.
#define SOFT_PWM_SCALE 0

// Temperature status LEDs that display the hotend and bet temperature.
// If all hotends and bed temperature and temperature setpoint are < 54C then the BLUE led is on.
// Otherwise the RED led is on. There is 1C hysteresis.
//#define TEMP_STAT_LEDS

// M240  Triggers a camera by emulating a Canon RC-1 Remote
// Data from: http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/rc-1_hacked/
//#define PHOTOGRAPH_PIN     23

// SkeinForge sends the wrong arc g-codes when using Arc Point as fillet procedure
//#define SF_ARC_FIX

// Support for the BariCUDA Paste Extruder.
//#define BARICUDA

//define BlinkM/CyzRgb Support
//#define BLINKM

/**************************************************  *******************\
* R/C SERVO support
* Sponsored by TrinityLabs, Reworked by codexmas
**************************************************  ********************/

// Number of servos
//
// If you select a configuration below, this will receive a default value and does not need to be set manually
// set it manually if you have more servos than extruders and wish to manually control some
// leaving it undefined or defining as 0 will disable the servo subsystem
// If unsure, leave commented / disabled
//
#define NUM_SERVOS 1 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command

// Servo Endstops
//
// This allows for servo actuated endstops, primary usage is for the Z Axis to eliminate calibration or bed height changes.
// Use M851 to set the Z probe vertical offset from the nozzle. Store that setting with M500.
//
//#define X_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 1
//#define Y_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 2
#define Z_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 0
#define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {{0,0}, {0,0}, {/* 130 */ 90,1}} // X,Y,Z Axis Extend and Retract angles M401 extend,M402 Retract
//#define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {{0,0}, {0,0}, {70,0}} // X,Y,Z Axis Extend and Retract angles

// Servo deactivation
//
// With this option servos are powered only during movement, then turned off to prevent jitter.
#define DEACTIVATE_SERVOS_AFTER_MOVE

#if ENABLED(DEACTIVATE_SERVOS_AFTER_MOVE)
  // Delay (in microseconds) before turning the servo off. This depends on the servo speed.
  // 300ms is a good value but you can try less delay.
  // If the servo can't reach the requested position, increase it.
  #define SERVO_DEACTIVATION_DELAY 300
#endif

/**************************************************  ********************\
 * Support for a filament diameter sensor
 * Also allows adjustment of diameter at print time (vs  at slicing)
 * Single extruder only at this point (extruder 0)
 *
 * Motherboards
 * 34 - RAMPS1.4 - uses Analog input 5 on the AUX2 connector
 * 81 - Printrboard - Uses Analog input 2 on the Exp1 connector (version B,C,D,E)
 * 301 - Rambo  - uses Analog input 3
 * Note may require analog pins to be defined for different motherboards
 **************************************************  ********************/
// Uncomment below to enable
//#define FILAMENT_WIDTH_SENSOR

#define DEFAULT_NOMINAL_FILAMENT_DIA 1.75 // 3.00  //Enter the diameter (in mm) of the filament generally used (3.0 mm or 1.75 mm) - this is then used in the slicer software.  Used for sensor reading validation

#if ENABLED(FILAMENT_WIDTH_SENSOR)
  #define FILAMENT_SENSOR_EXTRUDER_NUM 0   //The number of the extruder that has the filament sensor (0,1,2)
  #define MEASUREMENT_DELAY_CM        14   //measurement delay in cm.  This is the distance from filament sensor to middle of barrel

  #define MEASURED_UPPER_LIMIT         2.10 //3.30  //upper limit factor used for sensor reading validation in mm
  #define MEASURED_LOWER_LIMIT         1.40 //1.90  //lower limit factor for sensor reading validation in mm
  #define MAX_MEASUREMENT_DELAY       20     //delay buffer size in bytes (1 byte = 1cm)- limits maximum measurement delay allowable (must be larger than MEASUREMENT_DELAY_CM  and lower number saves RAM)

  #define DEFAULT_MEASURED_FILAMENT_DIA  DEFAULT_NOMINAL_FILAMENT_DIA  //set measured to nominal initially

  //When using an LCD, uncomment the line below to display the Filament sensor data on the last line instead of status.  Status will appear for 5 sec.
  //#define FILAMENT_LCD_DISPLAY
#endif

#include "Configuration_adv.h"
#include "thermistortables.h"

#endif //CONFIGURATION_H

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## clough42

> And here is another example you can use. [...]


Thanks, Gary.

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## plackslayer

So I'm wanting to upgrade to this but until my i3v 12" gets back to working order and printing as expected I can't.  I want to print the parts because it's fun and I enjoy printing upgrades but until I can - I'll keep watching you update such a great looking dual extruder.

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## clough42

Thanks.  I hope you enjoy the extruder.

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## plackslayer

In  the process of building it now - soldering is going slow because I keep getting interrupted...  

Question, if the nozzles are about 26.5mm apart is this ok or do they need to be exactly 27mm.  Is there some way to calibrate the difference in Marlin?

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## clough42

> In  the process of building it now - soldering is going slow because I keep getting interrupted...  
> 
> Question, if the nozzles are about 26.5mm apart is this ok or do they need to be exactly 27mm.  Is there some way to calibrate the difference in Marlin?


They don't have to be exactly 27mm.  You can calibrate the actual distance in software.

You can do it in Marlin, but I find it easier to manage in the slicer.  I've done it in Slic3r and in Simplify3D, and that's what I recommend.

Instructions for calibration and a calculator to help are here:  http://clough42.com/instructions/dou...r-calibration/

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