# Specific 3D Printers, Scanners, & Hardware > Peachy Printer Forum >  Diy it?

## Chayat

Well now it's all on github who is considering trying to build a peachy from parts themselves?


Ive got a lasercutter so I'm atleast going to be making some of those parts.

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## Waldschratt

i think i will go this way .. have a  lasercutter too :-) (and at least the nealy 1000$ are not lost this way  :-)

i think of not using the coils  , instead small stepper's  as mini galvo's.

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## oninoshiko

> Well now it's all on github who is considering trying to build a peachy from parts themselves?
> 
> 
> Ive got a lasercutter so I'm atleast going to be making some of those parts.


I don't have a lasercutter, but none of the support structure type stuff should really require it. We can probably do most of that with a extrusion printer (which I have access to at the local makerspace). Why don't we use this thread to coordinate our efforts, maybe setup a wiki so others who come along don't have to redo what we're doing.

There's a lot there on github, so do you guys know what is what? I'd like to take a look at some of the CAD work, if possible. Adapt it to be 3d printed. I should be able to merge what are designed to be snap-fitted into one solid piece. Also, we should start documenting where to source things like the laser from.

@rylangrayston can you arrange to sell just the unpopulated PCBs and maybe that huge sheet of coils, and/or possibly the mirrors: basically the stuff that seems can't be gotten just off the shelf? It seems to me that wouldn't be classified as a laser power supply, and therefor would no longer require the certification. You've got them and don't need them, we want them and don't have them. Seems like a win-win to me.

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## oninoshiko

OK, the boards are in https://github.com/PeachyPrinter/peachyprinter-pcb it looks like every version rylan's done in a single directory. I understand why it's this way, but that's going to be a mess to work with. Also they are in eagle format. While it's probably small enough to work with the free (as in beer) version of eagle, I would just rather stick with what I've been using, the open-source Kicad. I've forked it in github (https://github.com/oninoshiko/peachyprinter-pcb), and am going to clean this down to just the board (rather then every version) and in Kicad's format. That should make things much easier for people looking at this for the first time. It will probably be monday before I'm done (sorry, I have to work).

Here we go, the physical bits are https://github.com/PeachyPrinter/PeachyPrinterHardware. Again I've forked it to https://github.com/oninoshiko/PeachyPrinterHardware and will be working on getting this to something designed for 3d printing rather then laser cutting. While laser-cutting is probably better for mass production, I think having one geared for 3d printing will be easier for most to get ahold of. In my experience more makerspaces have extrusion printers then have lasercutters.

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## Chayat

I'm happy to send lasercut parts to people at cost. Once I've made mine I'll know what that will be

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## rylangrayston

WOW 
This Thread makes me so happy! 
Infact I was planing to start a thread like this focused on making a printer with Lego... an idea i toyed with quite some time ago  :Smile: 


I will be back here to help.
If Peachy Printer INC goes dormant for a while Id love to send some of the parts out to a person that can distribute them amongst the community as needed. 
That might be the best thing while Im trying to piece my life back together here lol.
Another thought is getting the arduino uno to replace the circuit,  Im sure this is possible, and would be much easer than populating your own smd peachy board.

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## read write execute

As one of the many silent backer the recent news was a bummer, but I think every question and sentiment has already been covered to both the negative  and positive extremes, so I'd rather look at how we can move this  project forward.

Now that Rylan has kindly opensourced a lot of the info; which personally means a lot more than any of the moaning no matter what went on. Looking through these files a thought occurs - Instead of this crowd sourcing funds rubbish which only really guarantees the money and interest that kickstarter takes (remember the house always wins) what about coming up with a "crowd building" plan and cutting out the parasites altogether by pooling our resources to adapt viable sub-project that would help restart the main project?  

*i.e.* Chayat_ (hey btw) has a laser cutter and is happy to send parts at cost, but if too many people took this kind offer up it may well becoome unviable. If however we as a community resolve what tasks remain, we could develope a system like 3dhubs or their ilk for each remaining component/process/requirement. Say we start this process with something like the scanner, this could be used to raise funds through the sale of further units, resources could be listed in a shared booking document along the lines of: 

Book1.jpg
_ 
_Organising this kind of thing could possibly be a positive way for rylangrayston etc.. to regain faith, reputation and all that - without further expense or liability.
___________________________________________________  __________________________________________________  __________________________________________________  _
_“It is a law of nature we overlook, that intellectual versatility is the  compensation for change, danger, and trouble. An animal perfectly in  harmony with its environment is a perfect mechanism. Nature never  appeals to intelligence until habit and instinct are useless. There is  no intelligence where there is no change and no need of change. Only  those animals partake of intelligence that have a huge variety of needs  and dangers.”   HG Wells, The Time Machine_

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## oninoshiko

OK, I've started "virtually assembling" this into a frame that can be 3d-printed. If anyone wants to help, feel free to fork and work on it, but please try to do pull requests early and often, so we aren't duplicating work.

The file I'm working on is /peachy_printer/printer_parts/assembled.scad in my fork of the PeachyPrinterHardware repo. I'd love to have something I can print on saturday, when the Urbana Makerspace has open access.

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## amoose136

@rylangrayston, I have a little electrical experience that might be enough to make an Arduino version. What sort of specs does the peachy board have? I.E. At what frequency are the coils driven at and at what maximum and nominal power and voltage? I need some design constraints if I'm going to make an electrically near drop in replacement board. Also we need to find a good source for compliant laser diodes in multiple countries.

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## Waldschratt

i worked on alternative mirror mounts  quiet a while ago .. will search for my "peachy-box" this weekend  and reactivate the project :-) but i am not realy good in electronic ..  my knowlege begins when it gos digital .. arduino , etc  , if someone coud help with all the volts and amperes and such :-)

is anyone from switzerland here ?

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## Mjolinor

If there are enough people then you should stick with the original PCB. You can get 10 blank PCBs made by dirtyprototypes for $20 or so. I am sure that someone will take that task on if there are enough people to pay for them.

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## jontelling

Hi all.
I'm glad we're looking at DIYing this. It was something I always thought would happen even before the "big bad news". Just like reprap....?

Times like this we need to 'lay' everything we have on the table and make an assessment.


What hardware does Peachy inc have in either storage or still waiting to be delivered?
What skills does the community have?
Locations of the community members?
What’s left to finish, anything?

My thoughts at the moment. I know we can do this and slowly work to bring the peachy from the dead. It will take time but that’s how things go.
The mention of using a wiki is a great idea.

With regards to distributing the remaining stock. One way would be for someone to take that take on, then maybe offload distribute to volunteers for different countries?
The first person in this chain should ideally be local to Peachy inc (to reduce the initial shipping cost).
I’m more than happy to be a distribute point for the UK (I’m South Yorkshire based).


I’ll have to look at the regulations regarding shipping laser diodes. I’m not sure but I think you only need the certification if it’s a user product, which in our case if it was just the component we’re clear (after all, it was shipped to peachy inc).

One of the most important things to consider. Who is the driver of this? There always needs to be someone keeping an eye on the ball or things really start to slip or simply donot happen…. Rylan….. or are you a broken man now? Lol.

Last but not least, I made a joke.

With a peachy printer and a big enough build area you can build a boat. With enough backers you can build a house.  :Big Grin: 

My few thoughts at the moment.
So… Who wants to build a wiki? (It’s easy btw).

EDIT: My skill set:
I've worked with an arduino, well, more of the atmega chips directly (cheaper, something like 75p each) so I can help with that side of things. 
I'm a little rusty but still sharp.  :Smile:  my gut says try an arduino... just because they're so common... Even reprap changed to the atmega chips. 
Other skills, coding, I've done a good chunk of it, but it's not my day job (I'm a sysadmin for a datacentre).
IT man... and I have a normal fdm 3d printer.

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## Waldschratt

For big prints perhaps a cluster of printhead's ? :-)

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## Chayat

> I’m more than happy to be a distribute point for the UK (I’m South Yorkshire based).


Oh I'm north lincs,

Skillset wise I've tinkered with arduinos and I've quite a bit of experience lasercutting things.

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## oninoshiko

OK, I'm getting close to having everything in position so I can start simplifying it. Here's what I don't get: 
How does laser mount A & B attach/work? 
How does static dampener A & B attach/work? 
What is the "standoff" for? 
How does the PCB mount? 

most of what I've done so-far, is from looking at the completed images but these four parts differ enough from what I've found that I'm having trouble identifying where they go and how they attach. Any insight anyone can provide would help me out a lot.

EDIT: I just realized im working with the scads for the oil-dampened version, rather then the magnetic dampened version. That will have to be fixed.

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## Alchemy

Sorry for a really noob question.

I assume the files in the repository were written with some free software. Whats the best to use. I really just want to see a part list in English not in scad and dxf. Simple questions like what's the laser used I couldn't answer.

OpenSCAD opens the files but I'm still confused. I saw the instructional video had a printed part list shouldn't that document file be somewhere?

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## oninoshiko

> Sorry for a really noob question.
> 
> I assume the files in the repository were written with some free software. Whats the best to use. I really just want to see a part list in English not in scad and dxf. Simple questions like what's the laser used I couldn't answer.
> 
> OpenSCAD opens the files but I'm still confused. I saw the instructional video had a printed part list shouldn't that document file be somewhere?


The PCBs where done with a package called "Eagle" which is not FOSS, but does have a limited version avalible hobbist use. I haven't done much with them yet, but the peachy should be a simple enough design that it should work with the free version of Eagle. I plan on converting them to an open source package called "Kicad" to make it easier on us hobbiests.

You've already discovered OpenSCAD, which takes some getting used to, but works well for this type of thing (particualarly for the programming-inclined). I'm not suprised it's what Ryland decided to work with, because (dispite our differences in style) it's exactly what I would have used.

I'm not sure where the partlist is, we're still getting a handle on things. Right now it's a bit like comming into to Pripyat once the dead-zone is decalared "safe": everyone dropped what they where doing and fled, so entering now noone knows what's where. We're trying to sort through it and get things working again, but it's likely going to take a month or so.

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## curious aardvark

when you've got a $100 kit that doesn''t need soldering - I'll buy one :-)

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## amoose136

Wiki and discussion.

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## rylangrayston

> ............. There always needs to be someone keeping an eye on the ball or things really start to slip or simply donot happen…. Rylan….. or are you a broken man now? Lol.............
>  .


Not Broken at all  :Smile:  
Currently spending some time trying to fix this in a big way by talking to investors. 
The beautiful thing about a freedom respecting project is that no one persons actions can kill it, 
but any one person can keep it going.  Great work everyone, great Ideas here.

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## rylangrayston

> OK, I'm getting close to having everything in position so I can start simplifying it. Here's what I don't get: 
> How does laser mount A & B attach/work? 
> How does static dampener A & B attach/work? 
> What is the "standoff" for? 
> How does the PCB mount? 
> 
> most of what I've done so-far, is from looking at the completed images but these four parts differ enough from what I've found that I'm having trouble identifying where they go and how they attach. Any insight anyone can provide would help me out a lot.
> 
> EDIT: I just realized im working with the scads for the oil-dampened version, rather then the magnetic dampened version. That will have to be fixed.


mirror frame A is called "A" because its holds the first mirror that the laser hits, B holds the second mirror that the laser hits. 
The 2 galvos in the peach printer are identical, they simply go in differnt places. 

As you have realized your other questions pertain to very old verson of the printer. 

I think you would be most interested to look at the blender animation ( work incomplete) 
there you can see the V1 printer fly together. 
https://github.com/Rylangrayston/pea...safety/blender

This animation was created with the some previous iteration of the files linked to above:




A big part of why we didn’t release these repo's earlier is because of the lack of documentation... they make sense to the employees that built them and that’s about it.

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## rylangrayston

There is lots of info in this forum where we were/are :S supporting those who actually have a V1 kit
http://peachyprinter.ipbhost.com/

Your Right oninoshiko It will take much time and effort for the community to get a grasp of all the work reviled. 
I can only help so much as much of the work is only fully understood by the engineers that did it....

Here is a incomplete list of things I have a deeper understanding of:

-There drip bubler system with all the hoses ( me and Erik came up with that)
-Printer assembly ( the animation work in the above video is all me)
-Over all printer functionality, names of all the parts and how they should behave. Fundamental concepts like how dose magnetic dampening , spring force, drip counting work. 
-openScad files - I could be of use here, Erik wrote most of the code for this but we invented each part together. There are a few parts that are my code like the dripper, and the the newest laser aperture.
-Laser safety, laser diode operation, laser testing, 
-Resin behaviours, surface tension , viscosity, adhesion, surface flow, oxygen inhibition etc.  Gavin worked on this as well 
-Printer testing and debugging, I wrote some code called G code writers for testing the printer. Gavin worked on this as well
-slicer settings and bugs. 
-printer maintenance
-safety interlock features
-coils                              ( me and Erik designed this)
- parts and part specs ( Nathan did alot of work here with supply chain communication) 
-magnetic dampening   ( me and Erik designed this, with a great Ideas from Tony and Scott and a very wise guy from the US military. )
-mas production processes,   I designed many of these my self and built task specific machines for production, many of which are not documented at all. There designs live in my head. 
with a few important numbers jotted down in a project note pad. 
-stepper motor moving platform (instead of dripper) - designed and coded some of these my self.    Erik and Will have added to this now also. I have a very good understanding of features that handle resin flow. 
- peristaltic pump design - Erik Did lots here To. 
- software user interface - I understand every setting and its purpose, including how to add additional functionality via arduino 
- hardware "dead ends"- I did many many hardware spikes, printers that have only one mirror, printers that have coils right on the moving galvo, air dampening, oil dampening, etc.  I have tried many many very different ways to make this printer. 



And an incomplete list of Things I dont know the iner workings of (don’t let the size of the list deceive you these are BIG things) :

- haven’t read a line of firmware code, I know how the firmware should behave but don’t know how to change it, This work was done by Tony and Will.
- software- I have very little knowledge of the code, I know how it should behave but don’t know how to change it. This work was done by James 
- Circuit board design - again very limited knowledge here, I know how it should behave and I can rattle off a few external behaviours like Max 100 mA per coil, and 48 MHz chip but Tony single handedly designed our V1 circuit. 
- USB driver - all I know is we send positional data to the printer about 1000 times per second using the proto buff protocol, Tony and James did this work so well I was only involved in the first meeting
- old audio version of the printer Scott and James cooper did most of this work. 


My day Job at peachy Is team development lead, A normal day for me at peachy is to communicate with about 6 employees, engineers, programmers, drafter, physicist etc,  making sure they have what they need to work 
and that they are working towards the right goals despite the problems that each of them run into every day.   After 8 hours of that, then I would also do a night shift working on some other part of the printer, that didn’t have an engineer delegated to it yet. 

Hope that helps people get a general understanding of my knowledge, 
One thing is for sure this project has been a team effort ever since I joined a my local hacker space. 
No one person knows everything about it,  but Im definitely the guy who knows who to ask  :Smile:

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## Combustible Lemons

> There is lots of info in this forum where we were/are :S supporting those who actually have a V1 kit
> http://peachyprinter.ipbhost.com/
> 
> Your Right oninoshiko It will take much time and effort for the community to get a grasp of all the work reviled. 
> I can only help so much as much of the work is only fully understood by the engineers that did it....
> 
> Here is a incomplete list of things I have a deeper understanding of:
> 
> -There drip bubler system with all the hoses ( me and Erik came up with that)
> ...


This is great to hear, Rylan, would you be able to provide the community to those who might still be interested with coils/other difficult to manufacture parts?

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## rylangrayston

Yes in fact for some of the parts we have more then enough for all the backers, simply because minimum order quantities forced us to purchase more. 
For example the elastic thread we have enough for 80 thousand printers, which cost only about 60 dollars.  I have coils that are of an old design that work just fine but are harder to use ( they don’t snap in to place perfectly) 
I would prefer to ship a bunch of parts to one or two community members, and then let those members distribute them as people ask. 
Also some parts are so inexpensive that its no problem to send a few  out for community use.  
Would anyone be willing to receive and distribute these parts amongst the community here?

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## jontelling

> Yes in fact for some of the parts we have more then enough for all the backers, simply because minimum order quantities forced us to purchase more. 
> For example the elastic thread we have enough for 80 thousand printers, which cost only about 60 dollars.  I have coils that are of an old design that work just fine but are harder to use ( they don’t snap in to place perfectly) 
> I would prefer to ship a bunch of parts to one or two community members, and then let those members distribute them as people ask. 
> Also some parts are so inexpensive that its no problem to send a few  out for community use.  
> Would anyone be willing to receive and distribute these parts amongst the community here?


I volunteer as tribute for ditsrict UK. 
Jon.

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## Synchron

I could do that for Germany

EDIT:
Skillset: Java, Openscad, html/css/etc. and a little bit of arduino, dart and i am able to learn new stuff  :Smile: 

Is there someone who has an overview or is able to get this overview and could create a task/bug/todo-list or something like that?

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## jontelling

> ........Is there someone who has an overview or is able to get this overview and could create a task/bug/todo-list or something like that?


I can't say I'll have total overview, but I'll try my best to work a frame-work out and place it on the wiki. Some bones to which we can add some meat... 

A trick I've taken from working in IT and progressing projects is to make notes, notes on everything and anything. Spellings ignored etc etc, free flowing words of your current thoughts.. 
Then later tidy and share. That's what I'll do when writing a framework. 
Jon.

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## oninoshiko

@rylangrayston Thanks, between that animation, and the .blends used to make it, that helps me out a lot. Unfortunately for me, I've hit a snag: someone managed to break the Lolzbot at my local makerspace. If noone's fixed it by Wednesday, I'll be taking the printhead apart.

I wish I could help with the distribution stuff for the US, but I have too much stuff going on right now.

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## au_wirt

I volunteer for Australia.

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## oninoshiko

@rylangrayston Hey, I'm looking at the 1.0 repo now, things make a lot more sense. I am noting a number of things in there only have the .smc files, T.scm is that one I'm looking at hardest (which I think is the base T shaped frame?). Is there an scad of this, or atleast a drawing defining all the dimensions?

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## amoose136

So I think I'm going to try and build one of these the Lego/Arduino route as a first attempt and then maybe upgrade to a dedicated solution later. What kinds of coils will do as substitutes? Are the official coils custom wound? If so, what gauge and how many turns? Additionally would something like this do for the laser diode. I assume any old 365-405nm laser diode should work provided it's at least 100mW. Lastly is there anything special about the mirrors? Are they a COTS part or if not, will a small fragment of a well cleaned standard bathroom mirror do?

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## harpo99999

amoose136, as one of the betas (and one of the 10) the coils are of a very thin wire(that is quite hard to see without magnification)(seems to be about 0.02mm thick) and custom wound, and the coil impeadance is appoximatly 30-38 ohms in the v1 coils, can not measure the pp29 coils as I could not remove the insulation on the wire of the coil during my attempt at building the pp29

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## Mjolinor

I thought he said there were box loads of them. Would be a nice gesture to give them to people trying to make the thing.

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## amoose136

> I thought he said there were box loads of them. Would be a nice gesture to give them to people trying to make the thing.


According the graph from the summary they should have box loads of them but not enough for everyone. According to the extracted data from the graph they have around 1200 coils but many other parts they either haven't gotten at all or have barely enough to even cover those who want to build their own.

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## thej

Hi everyone !!
I'm really glad to see the community coming together around this project!
Just like you, I REALLY want a Peachy printer

I would like to throw my 2 bits onto the table and say that I can get access to a 4'X8' Laser Cutter for cutting the structural pieces for the Peachy.

I need to know:
-What kind of plastic sheeting is required?
-What thickness ? ..and any other specific spec for the sheets
-What kind of company would sell this stuff (there are people locally that could help me with that part too)

Also.
A wiki page for DISTRIBUTORS needs to be made.
It should list all people who:
-have a stock pile of parts
-How to contact them
-What region they will serve

Budget and time allowing (can't see how it could be that expensive...Time is another thing altogether) I will purchase the plastic sheets, cut them and distribute.

Thej (Jason)

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## harpo99999

from what I remember 'hearing' the plastic sheet is recycled black abs and measures approx 2.93 mm thick(my guess would be any plastic sheet about 3mm thick), also I can scan the entire existing v1 abs sheet design as I have one unused, one partly (one part removed) and one mostly used sheets

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## thej

@Rylan
Where did you get your PCB's built? Was it a Canadian manufacturer?
Would you recommend using them?

Also
Which parts will be difficult for individuals to source?
Right now I'm thinking Mirrors and Coils (you have stock for now)

Thanks!
J

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## rylangrayston

> @Rylan
> Where did you get your PCB's built? Was it a Canadian manufacturer?
> Would you recommend using them?
> 
> Also
> Which parts will be difficult for individuals to source?
> Right now I'm thinking Mirrors and Coils (you have stock for now)
> 
> Thanks!
> J


We used macrofab... they are amazing .. definitely use them!

The hard to source parts ill list them from hardest to easiest. 
coils
very thin first surface mirror
tiny magnets
Ciruit 
laser
lycra Thread

I have lots of these in stock and as you will see in my next post Im working on a solution which involves me shipping out some of the tricky parts.

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## rylangrayston

Ok so there will be many many ways to DIY a Peachy Printer. 
and I think laser cutting parts is still a good DIY way, as well as 3d printing parts. 
I dont want to hijack this thread with the lego way, so Iv posted about a DIY lego peachy printer here:
http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...9264#post89264

Lets also keep talking about other ways to do it in this thread. 
I may be able to offer a small supper cut down parts package, that has the tricky to make/find bits like coils 
and mirrors.

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## thej

@Rylan
That's awesome! My question was a poorly timed as your latest update answered many questions (I even caught "MicroFab" on the boxes ;-)

On another note, I'm planning a trip out your way in about a month and I would like to meetup with you briefly as I'm passing through.
I would like to continue this conversation via email.

Email me at thej@?sha?w?.?c?a  (remove the obvious char) and let me know what you think!

j

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## rylangrayston

> @Rylan
> That's awesome! My question was a poorly timed as your latest update answered many questions (I even caught "MicroFab" on the boxes ;-)
> 
> On another note, I'm planning a trip out your way in about a month and I would like to meetup with you briefly as I'm passing through.
> I would like to continue this conversation via email.
> 
> Email me at thej@?sha?w?.?c?a  (remove the obvious char) and let me know what you think!
> 
> j


cool Yes Id love to show you everything in person! ... emailing you now

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## oninoshiko

GOOD NEWS EVERYBODY!

I've converted the PCB to Kicad, for anyone who would rather use that then eagle. (I have kicad installed, and would rather not have to have eagle installed as well)
https://github.com/oninoshiko/peachyprinter-pcb


This repo ONLY has the mini-1.14 version, which I believe is the version Peachy was preparing to ship. I'm still working on cleaning it up a little, so, YMMV.

EDIT: I've got it down to 5 ERC errors... (I'm not really sure about fixing these, so I'm leaving them for now. When/if I have some free time, I'll revist that cleanup)

EDIT 2: Hey @rylangrayston, can we get an offical license for these? There isn't one there, so my repo is probibly (technicaly) violating your copyright.

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## cephdon

> GOOD NEWS EVERYBODY!


I totally read that in Professor Farnswort's voice.


Now that the board is progressing, the only component I personally need are the mirrors. I can probably source everything else locally. 

@rylangrayston I am sure you tested numerous mirrors, which company produced the ones you have now? 

I will gladly pay for postage if you can pop 2 sets of mirrors into an envelope and send them to me. 😆

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## Waldschratt

I have a little Question abou the printing itself .
On earlyer video's i saw oszilated lines  from the laser .. like a full picture at once ..  in the last one i think i see just a wandering point  (more like the extruder type of printing , the movement i mean) 

Is my observation corect ? does the galvo just have to make slow movements ?

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## rylangrayston

> I have a little Question abou the printing itself .
> On earlyer video's i saw oszilated lines  from the laser .. like a full picture at once ..  in the last one i think i see just a wandering point  (more like the extruder type of printing , the movement i mean) 
> 
> Is my observation corect ? does the galvo just have to make slow movements ?


In real time the galvos make slow wandering movements... the laser dot moves at about 100 mm per second. 
In a time laps video, with the camera shutter exposing for many seconds you get to see the laser as a path rather than a spot.

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## thej

How do you download from The Github repositories? Other github repositories I've used had a "download files" button and signing up appears to create a new repository.
I've been copy & pasting from the RAW text view into notepad but this is getting tedious fast!
Please enlighten this Git nub.

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## Mjolinor

Install git then git clone the files.

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## CescoAiel

> How do you download from The Github repositories? Other github repositories I've used had a "download files" button and signing up appears to create a new repository.
> I've been copy & pasting from the RAW text view into notepad but this is getting tedious fast!
> Please enlighten this Git nub.


http://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+to+use+git

 :Stick Out Tongue:  :Stick Out Tongue:  :Stick Out Tongue:  :Stick Out Tongue:  :Stick Out Tongue:  :Stick Out Tongue:  :Stick Out Tongue:

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## Reonarudo

> In real time the galvos make slow wandering movements... the laser dot moves at about 100 mm per second. 
> In a time laps video, with the camera shutter exposing for many seconds you get to see the laser as a path rather than a spot.


Is this a limitation of the resin?

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## CescoAiel

The resin needs to be exposed to UV light "X" amount of time to set. You can do that in 2 ways: quick repeated passes (so you would actually see it as lines, not a dot) or slowly so it only needs a single pass... Total amount of exposure time required remains the same in both options!
The latter allows for more accuracy...

Which one would you prefer?   :Wink:

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## amoose136

> The resin needs to be exposed to UV light "X" amount of time to set. You can do that in 2 ways: quick repeated passes (so you would actually see it as lines, not a dot) or slowly so it only needs a single pass... Total amount of exposure time required remains the same in both options!
> The latter allows for more accuracy...
> 
> Which one would you prefer?


But with a more powerful diode it should be possible to speed up the laser to the limit of the accuracy of the galvo system. There might be hard chemical/physical limits to the curing speed though so it might be that adding more light won't make it cure any faster beyond a certain point.

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## CescoAiel

True, but it also increases the risk of UV light bleeding through in to deeper layers and curing deeper/more than intended...
So it's a balancing act really and their original goal of a less than $100 printer also set some limits...  :Wink:

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## amoose136

I was thinking about that and ideally I would think you would want a system to maintain the resin layer depth at the desired thickness of each layer and then have the laser intentionally cure it all the way through.

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## CescoAiel

Not really, since the amount of resin used will not be constant, so you'd need a way of measuring that, and that is ignoring viscosity and flow rate challenges...
This system works because the cured layer will absorb the UV so lower layers can't be accidentally cured along. But when the UV light gets more intense that may not be the case anymore!

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## amoose136

You wouldn't need to measure the amount of resin used just the thickness of the layer above the saline and if it's not enough, add more. If the interface wasn't moving this would actually be quite easy to do using a variation of the old auto refilling dog bowl trick and some clever pneumatic valves.

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## CescoAiel

Viscosity and flowrate remain a problem in your scenario, the idea behind the thick layer of resin is to provide a bit of a buffer so that the resin can fill the gaps quick enough! With a layer of less than 1mm the surface tension would be a problem and might even lead to pearls of resin floating on top of the water due to hydrophobic behavior!...

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## thej

@Rylan
The structural parts were laser cut from "ABS", correct?
Did you experiment with Acrylic? Did it work?

Apparently, laser cutting ABS produces Hydrogen Cyanide...sooooo, my local maker space will not allow it to be used even though it is well vented. Can't say I blame them!

Acrylic is a safe plastic to laser cut.
I got to test out the cutter tonight and I cut a few parts. Just need to review to assembly instructions to test them out. :-)

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## harpo99999

@thej, it should work assuming you have a sheet at approx the right thickness (I think I had measured it at approx 3mm thick), and the gasses released are part of the issue with the FFF printers and abs also

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## Reonarudo

> The resin needs to be exposed to UV light "X" amount of time to set. You can do that in 2 ways: quick repeated passes (so you would actually see it as lines, not a dot) or slowly so it only needs a single pass... Total amount of exposure time required remains the same in both options!
> The latter allows for more accuracy...
> 
> Which one would you prefer?


Can you provide some reference to this or elaborate? It isn't a very scientific explanation.  
Will a more powerful laser need less time? 
Is it irrelevant the laser power because the curing time only depends on the resin? 
Why does a single pass offer more accuracy? Its counter intuitive for me, could you elaborate?

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## CescoAiel

It is all about inertia and inertial dampening...

Slower means the mirrors need to move less, and not as fast. For a magnetically activated *and* dampened system that certainly makes a difference. 

Compare it to a car: can you make a tight turn better at 5MPH or 50MPH?

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## thej

I'm still trying to find the most current version of the structural pieces in the git repository.

I printed the "all.dxf" file on the laser cutter last night and when I  compared them to the assembly animation Rylan posted (page 3 of this  thread), they are NOT the same!! These are possibly the "oil dampened  version" as discussed in this thread.

In "PeachyPrinterHardware/peachy_production/"  these files here appear to be the scanner.
In "PeachyPrinterHardware/peachy_printer/ there is a collection of SMC files that COULD be the right files but I can't open them to verify.
I know these SMC files were created by the Laser Cutter's software but what is that software and can I download it?? (Ok, Duh, it's "SmartCarve")
Are there DXF versions of these files somewhere?
Has someone found the most current files?

The laser cutter at my local MakerSpace uses RD Works (I'll be getting a copy soon). This outputs RDL files not SMC. I can not open them with RD Works :-(

help

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## oninoshiko

> I'm still trying to find the most current version of the structural pieces in the git repository.
> 
> I printed the "all.dxf" file on the laser cutter last night and when I  compared them to the assembly animation Rylan posted (page 3 of this  thread), they are NOT the same!! These are possibly the "oil dampened  version" as discussed in this thread.
> 
> In "PeachyPrinterHardware/peachy_production/"  these files here appear to be the scanner.
> In "PeachyPrinterHardware/peachy_printer/ there is a collection of SMC files that COULD be the right files but I can't open them to verify.
> I know these SMC files were created by the Laser Cutter's software but what is that software and can I download it?? (Ok, Duh, it's "SmartCarve")
> Are there DXF versions of these files somewhere?
> Has someone found the most current files?
> ...


Hey there, that repo is all old stuff, you want this one: https://github.com/PeachyPrinter/pea...terhardware1.0

Totally threw me for a loop at first to!

MOST of the items have .scad files for them. This is a format used by OpenSCAD, it's really just a text file containing a script that defines the object. I'm not sure about converting this to RD Works, I do know that it can output at least a .stl file.

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## thej

Thanks! I dug through those files before but I really didn't know what I was doing yet ! I will check them out again :-)
RD Works will take a DXF so converting the SCAD models to DXF will work just fine.

J

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## Reonarudo

> It is all about inertia and inertial dampening...
> 
> Slower means the mirrors need to move less, and not as fast. For a magnetically activated *and* dampened system that certainly makes a difference. 
> 
> Compare it to a car: can you make a tight turn better at 5MPH or 50MPH?


The galvo works with an electro-magnet, a well modelled system can take that into account and compensate the inertia. Am I wrong? Certainly for faster speeds it gets tricky but looking at the current state it just looks *way* too slow. If the resin curing speed is not the issue then at least a 2x speed increase would be great if possible.

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## CescoAiel

> The galvo works with an electro-magnet, a well modelled system can take that into account and compensate the inertia. Am I wrong? Certainly for faster speeds it gets tricky but looking at the current state it just looks *way* too slow. If the resin curing speed is not the issue then at least a 2x speed increase would be great if possible.


Please read carefully what I typed before: it is a combination of factors: cost (laser diode prices increase substantially as they become more powerful, goal was a sub C$100 printer), curing time (the resin curetime is the main determining factor) and accuracy (if it takes x seconds to cure a layer either way, move slower as it increases accuracy)...

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## Reonarudo

Is there a datasheet for the resin?

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## CescoAiel

> Is there a datasheet for the resin?


I've not seen one on peachyjuice, but any UV curable resin should be usable, so pick your favorite one...  :Wink:

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## oninoshiko

You also need to concern yourself with the specific gravity, as it does have to float on the the saline.

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## CescoAiel

> You also need to concern yourself with the specific gravity, as it does have to float on the the saline.


Yes, resin specific weight/density should be close to that of normal water (1kg/l) but definitely less than that of the saline water (>1kg/l)!

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## Compro01

> Is there a datasheet for the resin?


You'd probably want to contact makerjuce for that kind of info, as they were the ones making the peachy resin.

https://www.makerjuice.com/pages/contact-us

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## hebbster

> Is there a datasheet for the resin?


Can't speak to what was used with the later stuff, but for the beta users it was "PeachyJuice Stiff or MakerJuice SubG/SubG+ resin". I got Stiff in the beta shipment. 

You can search the internet for the Makerjuice SubG/SubG+ MSDS sheets - what I just tried is a little different but I can't seem to upload it due to the file size (197 kb). probably not current anyway, it was from 2014.

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## au_wirt

Can I please have some advise/help with the files on github. I am unable to find all of the parts of the peachy printer because some are only in .smc format. I plan to laser cut the parts out. The parts I can't find are the legs and the T shaped chassis/frame. It would be greatly appreciated if someone can offer some assistance.

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## rylangrayston

> @Rylan
> The structural parts were laser cut from "ABS", correct?
> Did you experiment with Acrylic? Did it work?
> 
> Apparently, laser cutting ABS produces Hydrogen Cyanide...sooooo, my local maker space will not allow it to be used even though it is well vented. Can't say I blame them!
> 
> Acrylic is a safe plastic to laser cut.
> I got to test out the cutter tonight and I cut a few parts. Just need to review to assembly instructions to test them out. :-)


Acrylic works and its is what we original planed to make printers with.. abs is better because acrylic often breaks on the fine snap fit tabs, but it still works 
and a bit of hot glue can solve any problems you have with it. I think that 1/8 inch birch plywood would also work and so would petg. petg would be the strongest. 

We have been doing the parts in 3mm thick plastic but because we designed in openScad it should be relatively easy to cut parts from other thicknesses 
try playing with the SheetThickness variable in the openSCad files. 

Sorry Im not in here answering more questions right now.. Im in the middle of moving, so I spending lots of time boxing and cleaning, loading trucks etc.

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