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Thread: Show your MODS
08-11-2014, 12:35 AM #21
I didn't care for the add-on spool mount MakerFarm includes for the i3v, so I went with a top-side mount - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:192510 (not my design). There are several designs that hang a spool off to the rear of the i3/i3v , but these brackets keep the weight of the spool in-line with the frame uprights. I've had three full spools on this mount with no issue. The 1.75mm filament clip I found that fits on all three of the different types of spools that I have is http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:181356.
Rather than repeat them here, all my details for "modding" the 8-inch i3v kit into a fairly refined printer are in my build thread at MakerFarm 8" i3v Prusa build by Printbus.
Last edited by printbus; 05-29-2015 at 10:37 AM. Reason: migrated to offsite image storage due to 3DPrintBoard issues
08-11-2014, 09:11 AM #22
08-11-2014, 09:48 AM #23
I was going to ask about the sleeves on the cables. Glad you mentioned the name of it. It looks nice.
I also see a new connection method for the Z Rods to the stepper motors. Is that a standard part for the i3v or a mod? I find that my rubber connections are prone to slipping. They do provide some protection in a head crash as they will release and push off, but as even the lightest lubrication eventually makes its way to the bottom, it discolors in the vinyl tubes, so I know it's there. They aren't as tight as they used to be.
08-11-2014, 09:59 AM #24
The coupler is designed to allow the shaft to flex as it rotates, but it also essentially suspends the weight of the X assembly on an aluminum spring, and it rings as the Z axis turns. They're really designed to be used with ball screws that have thrust bearings in the mounts. I went ahead and slid the threaded rods all the way down so they actually contact the motor shaft, and this stopped the ringing noises.
I'm not worried about a crash, because the nuts will ultimately pop out of the traps, limiting the downward force that can be applied.
08-11-2014, 10:24 AM #25
08-11-2014, 10:52 AM #26
08-11-2014, 11:02 AM #27
I've been using the cheap stuff, sold on eBay by seller "furryletters". It can unravel, but I just cut it with scissors and try to be careful with it. I secure the ends with heat shrink and zip ties. Another approach is hot glue lined heat shrink. I've been known to cut a sliver off a hot glue stick and shove it in the heat shrink to help secure the sheathing so it doesn't pull out. Zip ties are easier.
One other tip: the sleeving melts very easily. Be careful when shrinking the tubing. I actually use a hot air solder rework station, which is way overkill, but really easy to control.
08-11-2014, 11:03 AM #28
08-11-2014, 11:06 AM #29
Is that worth $200 to you? It was to me.
It also gave me the chance to lacquer the frame black.
08-11-2014, 11:38 AM #30
Last edited by printbus; 08-11-2014 at 11:42 AM.