Results 1 to 10 of 12
Thread: M3D Printer
-
12-20-2015, 11:10 PM #1
- Join Date
- Dec 2015
- Posts
- 5
M3D Printer
I recently got a 350$ 3D printer for my birthday. It is a Micro 3D printer, or an "M3D" printer.
After two weeks, I have not gotten one successful print.
Problems:
Doesn't stick to print bed properly - I took some advice from youtube videos and just put Elmers Purple School Glue on the print bed, works great
Shifting and stuff - something that is supposed to be straight is completely shifted and tilted.
Doesn't stick to raft - causes a big plasticky mess
Extrusion - Running PLA at 240 C, sometimes filament literally just wont't extrude
fragile - my halfway completed prints are flimsy as hell!
I callibrate all the time, callibrating bed location and drive system with their automatic program.
wat do.
EDIT: BTW I use internal loading of filament
-
12-21-2015, 01:38 AM #2
Congrats on your purchase and welcome
Your issues are not uncommon for a beginner so lets go through them...
I don't know anything about the M3D printer so I would have to ask whether or not it has a heated bed. If yes then it would behove you to invest in a glass sheet to use as build platform and coat it with hairspray. If not then you should cover the platform with blue painters tape.
NOTE: If using a glass sheet be sure to put a shim of equal thickness under z end stop.
The printer will only do as commanded by the program. Shifting and tilting prints are the result of not mastering platform adhesion.
Woah!! PLA extrudes at approximately 200 C. You will ruin your PTFE tubes by running PLA that hot. Again, a good guide line for PLA: extruders at 200C, heated bed at 60C.
Master the above first. You will need to calibrate you extruder too but I don't really know much about M3D printers, it may be the same as other printers though.
Give us a bit more info about your setup i.e. slicer, filament type and brand, printer specs, object to be printed, etc...
-
12-21-2015, 06:06 PM #3
- Join Date
- Dec 2015
- Posts
- 5
Hey~! First of all, thanks for replying, after two weeks of failure, anything helps.
So if I were to cover my build platform in blue painters tape, would it make prints innaccurate due to leveling issues and the nozzle being too close to the bed for the tape. I don't know much about printers, as I am new, but those were some concerns.
So are you saying that if I get my print to fully stick to the bed, shifting would not occur? I am just looking to clarify.
So my program originally ran PLA at 215 C, and when I complained to support, they said to up it bit by bit. And by the way, I do not have a heated print bed.
My Filament- 1/2 Pound of the PLA plastic from the M3D website http://store.printm3d.com/#filaments_head_scroll
Printer Specs
Supports many different materials: ABS, PLA, nylon, professional, chameleon
50-350 micron layer resolution
15 micron X and Y positioning accuracy
Filament: standard 1.75mm. 1/2lb rolls fit within print bed and allow you to try a variety of materials and colors for less! Standard filament rolls also supported.
Print height: 116mm (4.6")
Base Print Area: 109mm x 113mm
Print Area Above 74mm: 91mm x 84mm
Removable Print Bed Size: 128x128mm
Printer Dimensions: It's a cube, 7.3 in (185 mm) per side.
Printer weight: 1kg (2.2 lbs)
Package weight: 2kg - 2.7kg (4.4 lbs - 6 lbs)
USB Compatible
(Copy and pasted from their website)
The object that I experienced skipping with was the Body1.stl from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:557812/#files
I also experienced messy printing with Back_Hand_Right_Hand.stl from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:892654/#files
And I am going to be 100% honest I don't know what a slicer is.
EDIT: Alright so recently I just tried to print a test border at 210 C and it only printed 1 side, i think because of how cold it isLast edited by parkbobo; 12-21-2015 at 06:46 PM.
-
12-21-2015, 08:32 PM #4
- Join Date
- Dec 2015
- Posts
- 5
by the way would you know a good resource to learn about 3D printers? Most of the things you mentioned (PTFE tubes) are not familiar to me
-
12-22-2015, 12:17 AM #5
Your bed doesn't appear to be heated so yes, you must cover it in blue painters tape. Then you will need to re-level the bed to ensure the correct distance between the tape and the nozzle.
You can google this. The typical PLA temp is between 190C to 210C.
That's a very ambitious print. Start with something simpler and get to learn your printer.
A slicer is the software that slices the model and creates the gcode eg: Simplify 3D, Makerware, Slic3r, Kisslicer, Cura, etc.
Sounds more like bad levelling to me. Take your time and start simple.
The internet is a treasure trove of information. Google google google!!
-
12-22-2015, 12:18 AM #6
-
12-22-2015, 02:45 AM #7
- Join Date
- Dec 2015
- Posts
- 5
Hey man! So after you posted I have been working slowly bit by bit on my printer, and here is what I return with
Alright, so after some tests and stuff, THE LOWEST temperature I could even extrude at was 230 C. I went up from 200 by 5 degree increments. I am just wondering if it is safe to run at this temperature.
EDIT: I have found another error. So recently I started loading filament externally instead of internally, to make sure the device would print correctly. In the middle of a GREAT print, no errors, no nothing. It just stops, and freezes. I got these two errors that repeated in my "Spooler Log"
There was an exception writing to the port: A device attached to the system is not functioning
There was an exception writing to the port: The semaphored timeout period has ended
I had to execute a power cycle by disconnecting the power cable. Even before that I executed an Emergency Stop code and it didn't do anything. I'm worried that I might have broke something running at high temperatures like you said. Keep in mind, I have been printing for like 3 days on 240 C on semi big prints.
Also, after restarting I can still print, however I am not sure if the error will occur againLast edited by parkbobo; 12-22-2015 at 05:19 PM.
-
12-30-2015, 10:32 AM #8
- Join Date
- Sep 2013
- Location
- Saskatchewan, Canada
- Posts
- 294
Tape shouldn't be needed. The printbed on the M3D comes stock with Buildtak on it.
-
12-31-2015, 08:13 AM #9
is the m3d auto calibration ?
And can you adjust it ?
If not you might need blue tape to tighten your calibration manually.
Got some build-tak - not tried it yet :-)
-
02-09-2016, 09:24 AM #10
- Join Date
- Feb 2016
- Posts
- 14
This issue sounds like the ceramic heating element is not making good contact with the hot end of the extruder shaft. As a result the hot end is actually colder than is being reported. It has either slid up the shaft or is loose. On the m3d it is only held in place by a silicone cover. I'd recommend opening up the extruder and using a small piece of aluminum foil to wrap the end of the hot end and provide a more snug fit for the heating element.
This problem is not uncommon on the m3d.
Ender 3v2 poor printing quality
10-28-2024, 09:08 AM in Tips, Tricks and Tech Help