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Thread: M3D Printer

  1. #1

    M3D Printer

    I recently got a 350$ 3D printer for my birthday. It is a Micro 3D printer, or an "M3D" printer.

    After two weeks, I have not gotten one successful print.

    Problems:
    Doesn't stick to print bed properly - I took some advice from youtube videos and just put Elmers Purple School Glue on the print bed, works great

    Shifting and stuff - something that is supposed to be straight is completely shifted and tilted.

    Doesn't stick to raft - causes a big plasticky mess

    Extrusion - Running PLA at 240 C, sometimes filament literally just wont't extrude

    fragile - my halfway completed prints are flimsy as hell!

    I callibrate all the time, callibrating bed location and drive system with their automatic program.

    wat do.

    EDIT: BTW I use internal loading of filament

  2. #2
    Congrats on your purchase and welcome

    Your issues are not uncommon for a beginner so lets go through them...

    Quote Originally Posted by parkbobo View Post
    Doesn't stick to print bed properly - I took some advice from youtube videos and just put Elmers Purple School Glue on the print bed, works great
    I don't know anything about the M3D printer so I would have to ask whether or not it has a heated bed. If yes then it would behove you to invest in a glass sheet to use as build platform and coat it with hairspray. If not then you should cover the platform with blue painters tape.

    NOTE: If using a glass sheet be sure to put a shim of equal thickness under z end stop.

    Quote Originally Posted by parkbobo View Post
    Shifting and stuff - something that is supposed to be straight is completely shifted and tilted.
    The printer will only do as commanded by the program. Shifting and tilting prints are the result of not mastering platform adhesion.

    Quote Originally Posted by parkbobo View Post
    Doesn't stick to raft - causes a big plasticky mess

    Extrusion - Running PLA at 240 C, sometimes filament literally just wont't extrude
    Woah!! PLA extrudes at approximately 200 C. You will ruin your PTFE tubes by running PLA that hot. Again, a good guide line for PLA: extruders at 200C, heated bed at 60C.

    Quote Originally Posted by parkbobo View Post
    fragile - my halfway completed prints are flimsy as hell
    Master the above first. You will need to calibrate you extruder too but I don't really know much about M3D printers, it may be the same as other printers though.

    Give us a bit more info about your setup i.e. slicer, filament type and brand, printer specs, object to be printed, etc...


  3. #3
    Hey~! First of all, thanks for replying, after two weeks of failure, anything helps.

    So if I were to cover my build platform in blue painters tape, would it make prints innaccurate due to leveling issues and the nozzle being too close to the bed for the tape. I don't know much about printers, as I am new, but those were some concerns.

    So are you saying that if I get my print to fully stick to the bed, shifting would not occur? I am just looking to clarify.

    So my program originally ran PLA at 215 C, and when I complained to support, they said to up it bit by bit. And by the way, I do not have a heated print bed.

    My Filament- 1/2 Pound of the PLA plastic from the M3D website http://store.printm3d.com/#filaments_head_scroll

    Printer Specs
    Supports many different materials: ABS, PLA, nylon, professional, chameleon
    50-350 micron layer resolution
    15 micron X and Y positioning accuracy
    Filament: standard 1.75mm. 1/2lb rolls fit within print bed and allow you to try a variety of materials and colors for less! Standard filament rolls also supported.
    Print height: 116mm (4.6")
    Base Print Area: 109mm x 113mm
    Print Area Above 74mm: 91mm x 84mm
    Removable Print Bed Size: 128x128mm
    Printer Dimensions: It's a cube, 7.3 in (185 mm) per side.
    Printer weight: 1kg (2.2 lbs)
    Package weight: 2kg - 2.7kg (4.4 lbs - 6 lbs)
    USB Compatible
    (Copy and pasted from their website)

    The object that I experienced skipping with was the Body1.stl from
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:557812/#files
    I also experienced messy printing with Back_Hand_Right_Hand.stl from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:892654/#files

    And I am going to be 100% honest I don't know what a slicer is.

    EDIT: Alright so recently I just tried to print a test border at 210 C and it only printed 1 side, i think because of how cold it is
    Last edited by parkbobo; 12-21-2015 at 07:46 PM.

  4. #4
    by the way would you know a good resource to learn about 3D printers? Most of the things you mentioned (PTFE tubes) are not familiar to me

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by parkbobo View Post
    So if I were to cover my build platform in blue painters tape, would it make prints innaccurate due to leveling issues and the nozzle being too close to the bed for the tape. I don't know much about printers, as I am new, but those were some concerns.

    So are you saying that if I get my print to fully stick to the bed, shifting would not occur? I am just looking to clarify.
    Your bed doesn't appear to be heated so yes, you must cover it in blue painters tape. Then you will need to re-level the bed to ensure the correct distance between the tape and the nozzle.

    Quote Originally Posted by parkbobo View Post
    So my program originally ran PLA at 215 C, and when I complained to support, they said to up it bit by bit. And by the way, My Filament- 1/2 Pound of the PLA plastic from the M3D website
    You can google this. The typical PLA temp is between 190C to 210C.

    Quote Originally Posted by parkbobo View Post
    The object that I experienced skipping with was the Body1.stl from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:557812/#files
    I also experienced messy printing with Back_Hand_Right_Hand.stl from
    That's a very ambitious print. Start with something simpler and get to learn your printer.

    Quote Originally Posted by parkbobo View Post
    And I am going to be 100% honest I don't know what a slicer is.
    A slicer is the software that slices the model and creates the gcode eg: Simplify 3D, Makerware, Slic3r, Kisslicer, Cura, etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by parkbobo View Post
    Alright so recently I just tried to print a test border at 210 C and it only printed 1 side, i think because of how cold it is
    Sounds more like bad levelling to me. Take your time and start simple.

    The internet is a treasure trove of information. Google google google!!


  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by parkbobo View Post
    by the way would you know a good resource to learn about 3D printers? Most of the things you mentioned (PTFE tubes) are not familiar to me
    PTFE tube are thermal barriers used in certain nozzle types. All metal hotends are the other kind. Don't know what you have.


  7. #7
    Hey man! So after you posted I have been working slowly bit by bit on my printer, and here is what I return with

    Alright, so after some tests and stuff, THE LOWEST temperature I could even extrude at was 230 C. I went up from 200 by 5 degree increments. I am just wondering if it is safe to run at this temperature.

    EDIT: I have found another error. So recently I started loading filament externally instead of internally, to make sure the device would print correctly. In the middle of a GREAT print, no errors, no nothing. It just stops, and freezes. I got these two errors that repeated in my "Spooler Log"
    There was an exception writing to the port: A device attached to the system is not functioning
    There was an exception writing to the port: The semaphored timeout period has ended

    I had to execute a power cycle by disconnecting the power cable. Even before that I executed an Emergency Stop code and it didn't do anything. I'm worried that I might have broke something running at high temperatures like you said. Keep in mind, I have been printing for like 3 days on 240 C on semi big prints.
    Also, after restarting I can still print, however I am not sure if the error will occur again
    Last edited by parkbobo; 12-22-2015 at 06:19 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sebastian Finke View Post
    Your bed doesn't appear to be heated so yes, you must cover it in blue painters tape.
    Tape shouldn't be needed. The printbed on the M3D comes stock with Buildtak on it.

  9. #9
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    is the m3d auto calibration ?
    And can you adjust it ?

    If not you might need blue tape to tighten your calibration manually.

    Got some build-tak - not tried it yet :-)

  10. #10
    This issue sounds like the ceramic heating element is not making good contact with the hot end of the extruder shaft. As a result the hot end is actually colder than is being reported. It has either slid up the shaft or is loose. On the m3d it is only held in place by a silicone cover. I'd recommend opening up the extruder and using a small piece of aluminum foil to wrap the end of the hot end and provide a more snug fit for the heating element.
    This problem is not uncommon on the m3d.

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