Auto_Bed_Leveling: Enhanced G29 command

[AbuMaia]

Any ideas yet on my Z home problem? For some reason it seems 4mm is being added somewhere. Let me know what files I need to upload to help.

[Roxy]

Any ideas yet on my Z home problem? For some reason it seems 4mm is being added somewhere. Let me know what files I need to upload to help.

Do you have this code in your ConfigurationStore.cpp file? If not... Let's get it in there and do a M503 command:

SERIAL_ECHO_START;
SERIAL_ECHOLNPGM("Home offset (mm):");
SERIAL_ECHO_START;
SERIAL_ECHOPAIR(" M206 X",add_homeing[0] );
SERIAL_ECHOPAIR(" Y" ,add_homeing[1] );
SERIAL_ECHOPAIR(" Z" ,add_homeing[2] );
SERIAL_ECHOLN("");

SERIAL_ECHO_START;
SERIAL_ECHOPAIR("Z_Probe_Offset (mm): ",zprobe_zoffset); // Added by Roxy to Complete Diagnostic print out
SERIAL_ECHOLN("");

#ifdef DELTA
SERIAL_ECHO_START;
SERIAL_ECHOLNPGM("Endstop adjustement (mm):");
SERIAL_ECHO_START

Let's make sure we know what numbers its getting from the EEPROM before we dig in.

[AbuMaia]

I have EEPROM disabled on my printer. I've never used it. Do you need me to activate it?

Here are the numbers you asked for. EEPROM is still disabled in my firmware.

>>>M503
SENDING:M503
echo:Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z4000.00 E900.00
echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
echo: M203 X250.00 Y250.00 Z2.00 E22.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
echo: M201 X1000 Y1000 Z5 E1000
echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration
echo: M204 S500.00 T500.00
echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z0.40 E5.00
echo:Home offset (mm):
echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:Z_Probe_Offset (mm): 10.90
echo:PID settings:
echo: M301 P24.49 I2.34 D64.21

[sprocket1597]

Any ideas yet on my Z home problem? For some reason it seems 4mm is being added somewhere. Let me know what files I need to upload to help.

I think i was having this problem before, had it all dialed in, go to do a print, went off to get a beer or 2 thinking its all good, came back to find that it was trying to plow up the bed with the nozzle. I was having to increase z offset, then decrease it. Ended up blocking the nozzle and pushing the barrel out of the peek block. So after getting a whole new hot end and it has been spot on for the past 20 prints. its possible that my hot end was pushing itself apart which is why i wasnt able to get z ofset to stay constant.

Although since the new hot end I have not touched the raise before probing settings at all. I think that might be where the difference was being introduced.

Couple of other point:

Roxy, your a legend!

I have found fine tuning the z offset by 0.03 is the difference between prints peeling sometimes and not coming off at all.

[Roxy]

I have EEPROM disabled on my printer. I've never used it. Do you need me to activate it?

Here are the numbers you asked for. EEPROM is still disabled in my firmware.

No! We don't need that activated. I was just worried we were getting bad numbers from it. There has been a rash of those kind of problems!

I'll review and commentin the morning. (My comments wouldn't be worth much right now any way!)

[Roxy]

Roxy, your a legend!

I have found fine tuning the z offset by 0.03 is the difference between prints peeling sometimes and not coming off at all.

I don't really know how to explain it... But I have to see the first layer go down. And from that I can tell whether the nozzle is a little bit too high, or a little bit too low. Using a business card to get the initial spacing works well. But then I have to watch it do the first layer.

[sprocket1597]

I don't really know how to explain it... But I have to see the first layer go down. And from that I can tell whether the nozzle is a little bit too high, or a little bit too low. Using a business card to get the initial spacing works well. But then I have to watch it do the first layer.

Thats how I got mine dialled it, eyballed 0 to start with and they adjusted based on how it was putting down the print. I noticed with that small adjustment on mine, after the print is done, the bottom surface is either totally flat with the adjustment or there are small grooves between the passes. I guess increasing the flow rate for the first layer some how, would have the same effect. It works so im not complaining

[DarkAlchemist]

I don't really know how to explain it... But I have to see the first layer go down. And from that I can tell whether the nozzle is a little bit too high, or a little bit too low. Using a business card to get the initial spacing works well. But then I have to watch it do the first layer.

As do I because my numbers keep changing from 1.8 to 2.0 distance (not that it really is changing but the bed has changed). So, if I can see very clearly through the layer, or it isn't sticking, I stop it as it is too far off the bed. I much prefer to have it deeper into the bed than not but too deep you go back to having a thin layer because it is pressing too hard.

[Roxy]

I have EEPROM disabled on my printer. I've never used it. Do you need me to activate it?

Here are the numbers you asked for. EEPROM is still disabled in my firmware.

AbuMaia... Does it print correctly? Are we trying to get your printer to work? Or are we trying to understand an abnormality? (Either way, we can proceed... But I'm trying to understand what is going on.)

When you say you Home the Z-Axis, are you pressing the Z-Home button on PronterFace, or are you giving the printer a G28 Z command? I'm trying to duplicate what you are seeing.

[AbuMaia]

Yes, it prints correctly. The G29 calculations seem to work, and do not add the extra 4mm that the G28 does. As for pushing a button or sending a G28 command, both. Home All, Home Z, G28, and G28 Z all have the same effect of adding 4mm to Z.