Results 31 to 39 of 39
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09-03-2014, 06:56 PM #31
I have noticed that sometimes when the printer is printing in a small spot for to long, the standard temp that works for everything else can actually be too hot. Almost like it is just re-melting the piece and pushing it around. That's why I like to have a little temp control, while printing. Repetier allows for this, Makerware doesn't. It just takes a little experimenting with temp. I will admit I haven't done much on printing figurings, but I have seen a difference of small print area to large print areas. Maybe, try printing two of those small prints, on the same print, to see if it helps.
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09-04-2014, 03:06 AM #32
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09-04-2014, 05:12 AM #33
- Join Date
- Sep 2014
- Posts
- 22
I am also looking for a 3D printer doing the same task of jobs as you do. Your final product seems a bit non-smooth. How would you overcome this issue? Polish it?
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09-04-2014, 08:18 AM #34
First off; check out this entire topic; somebody here already makes a lot of figurines and paints them, you can see the result that a FDM printer can have there.
Then it depends on what kind of models you want to make; with FDM you will keep having these small lines; but with the right settings they can be not that noticeable / easily filled with some primer. - OR in the case of smooth 'ceramic'-like statues you can use ABS and use the acetone vapor chamber.
If you want models right out of the printer that resemble the PVC figurines then you should probably look into a SLA printer... but I'm not 100% sure since I don't have experience with it.
The reason I went with a FDM printer even though SLA delivers higher quality finish is because FDM printer are cheaper, and allow for more prototyping/testing (because of the lower cost) - and I love to keep testing different things. If I really need a high quality print I can always send it to Shapeways/3D hubs. My printer is for prototyping and other in-house usage. + it's also quite fun, and the lower cost allow you to keep having fun.
If you have any more question please ask; but know that I've only recently started this and there are many more experienced people out here.
Regarding the products I showed here; these are still tests, I'm not sure if I will ever show a finalized product here, but I'll probably show better test-products in the near future (still learning.)
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09-11-2014, 01:23 AM #35
I tested about 180 different FDM printers. I definitely got the best results printing figurines with the Zortrax M200 (best closed source solution) and with 3NTR A4 (best open source, dual extruders solution).
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09-11-2014, 02:36 AM #36
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09-11-2014, 01:35 PM #37
Rewiew
No, I am sorry, I do not have a document about the comparison. The different printers have been tested during a quite long period (about 6 months), both in my workshop and in other places. To make a real benchmark, it would be needed to test all the printers to be considered in the
same period (hardware, software and firmware are upgraded within time). Also to have a really significative result it should be needed to test all the printers with the same models, filaments and in the same environmental conditions, and so on.
The "rough" thought expressed in my previous post is just a kind of "juice" of what I have seen using different printers models.
In other words, if I should print small figurines with a medium budget, and I should buy today, I would choose a Zortrax. A good alternative (in terms of quality and capability to print small details) is the Afinia, but for figurines the handling of support removal is very important, and from this point of view (and considering the overall mechanical and electronics features) I definitely prefer the M200.
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10-03-2017, 09:33 PM #38
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- Oct 2017
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- 1
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10-04-2017, 06:47 AM #39
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