Hictop prusa i3 3dp-11 firmware update(no save fnc on lcd?) and aut.lvl.Z etc probl.

[Warmaster]

Hey
I bought this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HICTOP-Aut...3D141913024926
sorry for horrible link
HICTOP Auto Level Calibration Prusa I3 Reprap 3D Printer MK8 24V Power Supply


So I guess it is 3dp-11 with autolevel sensor for Z-axis.
Few problems. First there is not save option on LCD and guess what? the seller does not answer me nor does hictop. I have adjusted the autolevel sensor sn04-n many times but since I dont have a good guide I have tried and error. I cannot chance the Z axis offset because there is not save function so I guess they just have this old board lying around and did not upgrade it to support all features.

Ok tonight after like week of losing my nerves on this infernal machine, it decides to print me a tiny robot(yay!) but guess what happened when I tried again?
It tried to pierce the bed and draw lines on it until I pulled a plug. I'm starting to think that the autolevel sensor is useless. I am not sure but doesn't it run on 5v on this machine? and on sensor 6v is lowest operating voltage. that might make the sensor read wrong from time to time, dont you think?
Also I thought maybe the aluminium warm bed might change shape and sensor goes wild or something but that is quite a big no I think. 50celsius aluminium should not expand that lot in thickness?

So question really is, can I use this guide to upgrade the firmware and does that 24v version make some difference?
Machine is quite ok built. I have checked everything twice or more times.

THESE BELOW KINDA ANSWERED

I list questions here for easier answer.
1) can I use the newest marlin? I THINK I CAN, JUST NEED HELP WITH RIGHT SETTINGS
2) Should I throw the autolevel sensor out of window and just use end-stop? DID THIS ALREADY
2.5) or does anyone else have advice for that sensor sn04-n. How lot does it actually get voltage? I could not measure cus I was not sure how. GETS APPROX 5V AND MIN IS 6V, CAUSES ACCURACY PROBLEMS?
3) any good first calibration guide for this machine? I have used a paper to roughly adjust the bed so theres tiny friction between nozzle and paper. DOING THIS LIKE ALL ELSE
4) please tell if something should be upgraded instantly or suggestions so I would not waste more time trying to make this work with not proper parts. RESEARCHING, BEARINGS ARE BAD AND SLIDERS WOBBLY
5)is glass a good idea to put over that aluminium bed? (well not using that before I fix the autolevel or stop) NOT GOOD IDEA WITH SN04-N BECAUSE IT CANT READ SO FAR AND GOOD
6)if I remember correct, you cannot get the original rom from the board to computer? I mean "download" I have played with arduinos but now my memory tricks me. POSSIBLE BUT THE VERY ORIGINAL I ALREADY FLASHED OVER

if any kind soul could answer soonish. Im going home in about 4 hours and would love to start making this work again.

[Warmaster]

it is actually 3dp-12 when with autolevel. I got new firmware from supplier but is there anything I should do to it before flashing or should I go with marlin firmware?

[Warmaster]

Ok I threw the autolevel sensor away since it was not accurate at all. Its rated 6-36v and when measure from board pins it gives 4,94v only so I guess the accuracy goes way too low. Led lights ok etc but i noticed that tiniest nudge on same spot might turn it off.

I put in a microswitch like on other axis and flashed firmware to disable the autolevel bed feature.

Now when I setup Z-axis and table just right on all 4 corners and even on middle its looking great. I autohome it goes great too but when printing it does same routine but stays about 2-3mm from bed, not the adjusted so i can just slip a paper and feel little friction.
using cura 14.12, could not figure the repetier to work and noticed that manual control on repetier is easy way to crash and burn since it ignores(?) stop switches.

Is there a guide or something to help me configure the newest Marlin firmware for this? or someone has basic settings that are similiar to my setup?
I would be very happy. I have been fighting this thing over 1 week soon.

All specs I can tell you about this is
Hictop Prusa i3 3dp-11/12 or something because came with autolevel kit.
I got a 3dp12 firmware from seller and said to config myself. I tried my best but then I took 1.06 one version modified for i3 by someone called chip.
Now I have the same version mentioned earlier on it as firmware
MPX-3 board red one (1.3ramps?) board 33 says on supplied firmware
24v 15a power supply
1.75mm extruder
goldenmotor.cn servosteppers came with
8mm rods with 1.25mm raise calculated 2560 and updated to firmware

also i get err: too far when i try to access home offset on screen.

Please can someone help or give advice where I can get self help. Surfing net has not helped at all, dont seem to get any definitie help to setup the firmware right to this one.

I can supply the firmware that seller send me if needed.

[Warmaster]

Yeah im moron. did not read that there are calibration instructions on firmware but still other guestions are open..

[Roberts_Clif]

1. Yes you can, I am using Marlin-RC8BF-HICi3.zip
2. No. Print a adjustable Bearing Bracket here or a my modified one here.
3. That is the way we all started. After you get the Auto Bed Leveling down this is no longer a problem.
4. I am using the Firmware form here
5. I Have a BuildTac surface, and guess what I use a piece of Vinyl Transfer Paper to Print on.

T1.jpg

6. Original Firmware can be downloaded from here.

[Roxy]

Ok I threw the autolevel sensor away since it was not accurate at all. Its rated 6-36v and when measure from board pins it gives 4,94v only so I guess the accuracy goes way too low. Led lights ok etc but i noticed that tiniest nudge on same spot might turn it off.

I put in a microswitch like on other axis and flashed firmware to disable the autolevel bed feature.

If you bring up the UBL Bed Leveling System, the accuracy of the Z-Probe doesn't really matter. If the probe is super accurate, it save 10 or 15 minutes of setup time. But even with a horrible Z-Probe (or no Z-Probe) you can generate a mesh and fine tune it in 30 or 40 minutes. And from then on... Your "Good to Go".

[Roberts_Clif]

If you bring up the UBL Bed Leveling System, the accuracy of the Z-Probe doesn't really matter. If the probe is super accurate, it save 10 or 15 minutes of setup time. But even with a horrible Z-Probe (or no Z-Probe) you can generate a mesh and fine tune it in 30 or 40 minutes. And from then on... Your "Good to Go".

I too have rid myself of the SN04-N, But not because it was not accurate. It worked faithfully for 8 months.
Changed because wanted a proximity sensor that could be placed within 10mm of the nozzle. Chose the TL-W3M and Decided on 25mm to center of the sensor.
The Proximity sensor Mount adjustment screw allows me to change and calibrate bed surface within a couple of minutes.

Have three bed Surfaces I use, The one you see is the most used surface as adhesion is the great, and calibration takes only a minute. you do not have to be within a micron for it to work well.
This surface is Medium tack Transfer Tape for Vinyl lettering. As tape widths can range from 2 inches to 36 inches, I can install the transfer tape in one piece, using a Vinyl Transfer Applicator of my own design. Apply the Medium tack Transfer Tape right over the BuildTac surface. Trim the Vinyl Transfer paper to the Shape of the bed.
Best of all can use many time without changing the adhesive paper between prints.


The Other surface used is a BuildTac with which have problems with adhesion and takes many times longer to get a correct calibration, and still will not have adequate adhesion on complicated designs.


Now for the last Surface a Releasable Pressure Sensitive Adhesive.

A Releasable Pressure Sensitive Adhesive applied the Vinyl Transfer Paper to the Bed.
Start with applying the Vinyl Transfer Paper to the Bed, Sand with a 1000 grit sand paper, and wipe the dust from the Transfer Paper with a dry cloth.
The Transfer paper need not be trimmed at this time

A Releasable Pressure Sensitive Adhesive such as a Carper glue can be applied to the Vinyl Transfer Paper in a very thin layer.
Using a putty knife dip out about 2 teaspoons of carpet glue spread across the Vinyl Transfer Paper to a thin even level, apply more Glue as needed. Allow 20 minutes drying time to translucent.

Trim the Vinyl Transfer paper to the Shape of the bed. Now you are ready to print.
This works on very complicated shapes at high speeds. Nozzle height is barely an issue.
And I have printed multiple items of the same in the same spot without reapplying glue, and if a spot gets thin apply a drop of glue with your finger to re cover the bare spot.

If you get into a hurry with the Releasable Pressure Sensitive Adhesive it is a mess getting off the parts as it is a permanent glue when used wet.
However when wet the glue is water soluble.

Best method is the Vinyl Transfer Paper.


T1.jpg

Sample bed leveling
Auto home, lower nozzle to lowest z -axis level test for correct height.
If height incorrect adjust Proximity sensor thumb screw. Repeat until desired height acquired (If no Proximity sensor adjust Z-Axis end-stop switch this too could have a calibration thumb screw adjustment made to fit)

when desired height is acquired. Disable steppers and move bed and nozzle to a corner, and adjust bed leveling thumb screw to desired height.
repeat for all four corners and center of bed

Bed Leveling is complete. (This assumes that the X-Axis is level if not level X-Axis first)

Or you can Use Auto Bed Leveling Linear with a G29 command in the Cura G-Code, that is if your Firmware has this Auto Bed leveling feature. Bed leveling has to be preformed for every print, no save feature in Marlin as of this date.