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  1. #3901
    Interesting to know, I didn't find that info anywhere. It's only drawing 0.6% of the 375w PSU's reserves (converter is >85% efficient at 2w) so I'm not concerned. It will also let me string up more 12v LED strips if I choose. I've tested them with 48 LED's for a few hours w/o issue and several lesser applications. If I really need more power I've got some slim 750W HP PSU's that I can put in series for 24vdc. Individually they're about 2/3 the size of that "Meanwell".

    What I'm liking more and more is the rotated switch, it wasn't easy to access on my desk.

  2. #3902
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    KS
    Posts
    907
    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    I rarely turn my printers off, and if I do I switch off the UPS they are plugged into.

  3. #3903
    I have a question for all the QIDI Guru's out there, (Yous guys)

    I have found that I need to replace my extruder motors, and they are as follows:

    42HB34F08AB rated at .8 amps.

    I have found motors that meet most all needs except they are either 0.4, 1.2, or 1.5 amp rated....

    Will this matter, or damage anything if I go up higher than .8 amps? Can the power supply handle it? Should I go with the lower 0.4?

    Also, most of the ones found are a little longer at 40mm, versus the 34mm of the stock, will this effect anything??

    Thanks in advance!!!

    Also if anyone has a link to a replacement extruder motor that is pug and play let me know!!!

  4. #3904
    Do you have a link to this?

  5. #3905
    Quote Originally Posted by wirlybird View Post
    You basically go to a Bowden type setup to get it to work. Google it.

    Go with JF's cooling block setup and get Micro-Swiss all metal hot ends. It's a bolt on.
    Do you have a link to this??

  6. #3906
    Technician
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    80
    So, question for everyone. I've just finished a weeks-long printing of a deluxe Catan board. The reason this matters is because I'm printing fairly flat, relatively thin pieces. Not that thin, but thin enough. Basically, various hexes from this:

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1238980

    Anyway, long story short, as I finished each piece I found that I couldn't get my blue tape up off the bed without it tearing around the pieces and, therefore, still leaving the pieces attached to the bed (albeit, with a piece of tape under them doing me exactly no good whatsoever).

    So, the two ways I found to get things loose were:

    Heat the bed once a print was finished, and then use my putty knife to pop the piece loose. Of course that meant I was actually deforming my piece. At best, I'd take a notch out of it as I got the knife under, at worst, I'd end up basically curling the side of my piece.

    Heat the bed once a print was finished, and then detatch the tape from the edge of the bed, and using that, pry up the piece using the tape itself as the putty knife (basically). Sometimes this would work fine, if the piece popped off. Sometimes it would work poorly, if the piece did more of a slow bull and got a bit cupped. And sometimes it went terribly, and I would have the tape rip around the piece and I'd have to go back to Plan B with the putty knife.

    So, I'm not looking for ideas on how to get prints to stick, because from what I've seen enough work leveling will get you there eventually. My issue is getting the pieces off the bed without damaging them. Any suggestions?

  7. #3907
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Northern Ohio
    Posts
    198
    Glass bed, glue stick if prints are not sticking, freezer if the prints don't pop right off after cooling.

  8. #3908
    Technician
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    80
    So, just something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-H...3D171977598512

    connected with these: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1596076/#files

    Or is there a better choice?

  9. #3909
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Northern Ohio
    Posts
    198
    I use a similar setup on my ff machines but read the fine print on the glass. It states the size may vary by 1-3cm. That is way too much for those clips to work. Look for a local glass ahop and have them cut one to your specs.

  10. #3910
    Technician
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    80
    Actually, with some more research I think I'm going to try some regular picture frame glass with these clips, unless someone cautions against it: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:570406

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