Itty Bitty Double Extruder

[clough42]

Mine is the same way, I have my right hand extruder connected to T0. I think it sees T0 as the primary extruder and places it in the first or left position on the display.

Interesting. I wired mine with extruder 0 on the left, as viewed from the front, to match the display. I had it wired the other way around at first, but swapped the connectors because it was confusing.

[clough42]

Hello can I order a hardware kit to be shipped to New Zealand?

I just updated the listing to allow shipping to NZ. I had intended to offer global shipping all along, but apparently the category I chose (Industrial plastics machinery) was excluded from the program. It's now listed as computer/printer spare parts, and offering shipping to NZ.

I also had a query about Bulgaria, and that's now available as well.

[Errol]

Cool thanks. Have ordered the kit. Am really looking forward to getting it up and running. I have a prusa i3v 10"

[clough42]

Is there any printed part of this extruder that would be damaged by acetone vapor smoothing? I like the shiny red look in the renderings, and I want to try to achieve that look.

Go for it. And upload pictures. I haven't tried it, but I'm interested because of the added layer adhesion.

The bearing pockets are the only part of the extruder with critical tolerances.

[clough42]

Sorry for all the late replies. My notifications started going to spam around the start of the year.

[usarmyaircav]

Sorry for all the late replies. My notifications started going to spam around the start of the year.

Mine did too, I actually had to create a filter in gmail, to get it to stop sending 3dprintboard notifications to spam

[kfahn]

Has anyone had issues with their hexagon hot ends being different lengths? I ordered two new ones from Makerfarm, and they are ~0.5mm diffferent in length from end to end. There also seems to be a slightly updated design from before. (see this other thread on the topic: http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...4357#post44357 )

This difference in lengths could pose a problem for us since there isn't any way to level the hexagons. Clough42, did you see anything like this when you were getting yours set up?

[clough42]

Has anyone had issues with their hexagon hot ends being different lengths? I ordered two new ones from Makerfarm, and they are ~0.5mm diffferent in length from end to end. There also seems to be a slightly updated design from before. (see this other thread on the topic: http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...4357#post44357 )

This difference in lengths could pose a problem for us since there isn't any way to level the hexagons. Clough42, did you see anything like this when you were getting yours set up?

I didn't have any trouble. I bought two hot ends directly from RepRapDiscount, and they were exactly the same length once I disassembled them, cleaned them out, heated and tightened them.

I would disassemble the blocks and nozzles and look for any flashing or other imperfections in the metal that might be preventing them from seating properly. Then heat up the block to your printing temperature, tighten the nozzle first and then tighten the barrel into the block with the wrench.

Note that you can adjust the heights a little bit by racking the whole X carriage left and right. Just turn the Z screws by hand to tip the axis and level the nozzles. As long as you're using auto-bed-leveling, this will work fine.

I am in the process of getting a web site set up with detailed assembly and calibration instructions. I developed a couple of calibration objects to make it easier. More on that soon...

[Poindexter]

Hey everyone,
I'm having some trouble with getting the servo to respond. My setup is as follows: RRD fan extender from makerfarm (D4 and 5 pins?). D5 is set to auto cool when hotends are above 35, which works. M106 command successfully controls the print cool fan, though I'm unable to determine which pin it is defined to (its plugged into lower right corner of fan extender). This leaves me with the option to power my servo from D40. I have found others who did it but altering my pins.h file as they did didn't have any effect. Im running the Marlin firmware with the config.h and configadv.h files from this thread. Anyone have some insight? I'm so close! Thank you

[clough42]

Hey everyone,
I'm having some trouble with getting the servo to respond. My setup is as follows: RRD fan extender from makerfarm (D4 and 5 pins?). D5 is set to auto cool when hotends are above 35, which works. M106 command successfully controls the print cool fan, though I'm unable to determine which pin it is defined to (its plugged into lower right corner of fan extender). This leaves me with the option to power my servo from D40. I have found others who did it but altering my pins.h file as they did didn't have any effect. Im running the Marlin firmware with the config.h and configadv.h files from this thread. Anyone have some insight? I'm so close! Thank you

The fan extender board only uses D4 and D5, even though it also covers D6 and D11, where the servo would normally be connected. If you solder a 3-pin header to the back of the fan extender board, to the top of the D11 pins, you can still connect the servo there, and you don't have to do anything special in firmware.

The connections you show for the cooling fans are correct. The print fan is on D4 and the hotend fan is on D5.