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  1. #191
    Student OldSourKraut's Avatar
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    Yes, the display shows both temps however mine is reversed and I can't figure out why. The right-hand temperature readout is of the left-hand hot end.
    Mine is the same way, I have my right hand extruder connected to T0. I think it sees T0 as the primary extruder and places it in the first or left position on the display.

  2. #192
    Engineer-in-Training beerdart's Avatar
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    Just view the printer from the back bam all good lol

  3. #193
    Student
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    Hello can I order a hardware kit to be shipped to New Zealand?

  4. #194
    Engineer
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    Is there any printed part of this extruder that would be damaged by acetone vapor smoothing? I like the shiny red look in the renderings, and I want to try to achieve that look.

  5. #195
    Super Moderator RobH2's Avatar
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    I wouldn't think so as long as you don't overdo it and you give it time to re-harden. It might change the tolerances for the bearing holes. You could split the main body and just print one of the holes and smooth it to test it. That way you wouldn't waste 8 hours of printing. There isn't anythng that is dependent on really exacting tolerances. As long as the bearings aren't loose and knocking around you'd be OK. The rest of it has a lot of tolerance really.

    If you do it please post photos. I'd love to see a real one that was fire engine red and shiny...
    Bambu P1S/AMS
    NVision4D http://nvision4d.com

  6. #196
    Engineer
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    Should I be using ABS to print it?

  7. #197
    Super Moderator RobH2's Avatar
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    You could use PET or PLA as well. Any rigid filament will work. If you want to smooth it like some other are suggesting then use ABS. Acetone won't smooth PLA or PET. They can be smoothed but I don't think you want to mess with the nasty chemicals that can do it.
    Bambu P1S/AMS
    NVision4D http://nvision4d.com

  8. #198
    Engineer
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    im not worried about smoothing it. just for strength and whats appropirate as an extruder

  9. #199
    Super Moderator RobH2's Avatar
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    Sure, I assumed that. You'll be good with any of the three I mentioned. They are all strong. PLA has the lowest melting point so I'd say ABS and PET are better marginally. There's some heat to deal with at the hot ends so you do want as much temp resistance as you can get. You'll need an insulator between the hot ends and the air intake to keep that shroud from deforming no matter what material you use.
    Bambu P1S/AMS
    NVision4D http://nvision4d.com

  10. #200
    Engineer clough42's Avatar
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    May 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by adamfilip View Post
    Should I be using ABS to print it?
    I use ABS and recommend it. In addition to the higher melting point, it has less surface friction, so the filament should feed a little better than PLA.

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