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  1. #1
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    So I am working on bed leveling some more. I am having problems with larger prints adhering to the build plate. I have completed the standard g29 with adjustment to make all three x,y,z points within 0.02 min-max. I then did the same ( really it was ok after the g29's) with G32 S2 which calculates and stores the z-plane. The next step in the process is to generate a bed height map (tools-> Bed height Map in repetier host), then generate a distortion correction map using G33 ( video shows g29, but this was replaced by g33 in firmware 92.8 ). So the generating the map went ok (except for a glitch? in the first point (still need to understand that)) but when I went to do the G33, it was unrecognized command. Apparently, the firmware for the K200 choose not to compile it in.
    Now that leaves me trying to get the exact configuration.h file used to generate the existing code loaded, so I can make a simple modification.

    I guess the point of all this is 3 fold:
    1- Do you have a contact for Wendy at reprapmall (?) so I can contact her and request this information?
    2- Do you happen to have this? I have looked on facebook -. K200 group, but not sure what the origin of the files are.
    3- Any other thoughts? how 'smooth, distortion free' is thee print bite? Ever run the bed height tool?


    My output of the bed height tool:
    Code:
       
     X:        -55.00    -27.50    0.00    27.50    55.00
    y:55.00        79.49    79.94    79.89    79.85    79.84
    y:27.50        79.79    79.81    79.76    79.71    79.73
    y:0.00        79.73    79.73    79.74    79.74    79.74
    y:-27.50    79.84    79.77    79.81    79.87    79.89
    y:-55.00    50.26    80.11    80.14    80.19    80.16

  2. #2
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    LOL, nice work, guys. I did one of those helmets the old fashioned way back in the 80s with cardboard and paper mache, and some red yarn for hair. Also made a wooden sword and a tunic of sorts. It has seen better days, now with a little duct tape, but still works to scare the kids when they come 'round. May need to reprise this with the 3d Printer.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Printbite base is smooth, with a very faint dimpled pattern. You can see it but you can't feel it. And it is really flat.
    never needed to do anything but the physical - actual - bed level.
    All the topographical system does is compensate for a non-level bed. My bed is level, so no compensation needed.

    Just pm wendy, she's perfectly friendly :-)

    Raylo - pics need re-uploading. Interesting to see your viking helmet.

    ***

    Ah ha pic showing up now.
    lol that's more of a minotaur hat than viking - love it.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 10-11-2017 at 05:32 AM.

  4. #4
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Metal motor brackets arrived today, still waiting on wheels. But I think I've now got all the bits to do the belt setup and finish the cornerpiece design with sprocket (?) holder added and some more bolt holes.

    Oh yeah had a company call me this morning who want my old dead crap - uh, used computers.
    So with luck that'll clear a fair bit of space in my workshop. Particualrly as most of the old dead base units are being used as 'shelves' for more crap, which I will be forced to throw away to get at the base units.

    The stack of dead laptops is up to about 3 feet tall, the dead harddrives are probably in triple figures and I have - literally - no clue how many dead base units there are, 'cos they're covered in piles of junk everywhere you look.

    I've got to send some pics of the crap, hopefully that won't scare these guys off.
    Local council tip won't take dead pc's from professionals, won't tell me where to dump them and the only other people who've contacted me wanted paying to take it away. This morning's call said they'd do it for free.
    Not sure how much recoverable gold and and the like there is in these things - but if they help clear my workshop, then they are more than welcome to it :-)
    Hell I'll even throw in some dead motherboards and whatever new parts are no longer useable.
    I did have a stack of isa network cards at one point, no clue if I've still got them or not.

    So fingers crossed :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 10-12-2017 at 06:27 AM.

  5. #5
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    0.4mm layer height. My new favourite layer height :-)
    Runs nicely at 210c and 100mm/s, ideal for my 0.5mm nozzle.
    Makes big things fast and as long as there's no complex over or underhangs - looks pretty good.
    Currently using it for my clay glande moulds.
    78 cubic cm in under 3 hours. Dimensions are bang on too :-)

    The interesting thing about these moulds is that the two halves slice completely differently.
    The tongue half is always super smooth on the inside, while the groove always has issues - if you print them seperately.
    If I print both together, both are equally smooth, and no stringing either.


    The numbers refer to the length and diameter of clay cling bullet they make. The 70x46 could probably be used for hunting elephants. It's a big glande.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 10-13-2017 at 10:26 AM.

  6. #6
    Technologist
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    hey ca, quick question, in S3D, what do you have your build volume set to? 140x140? I had mine at 200x200, but that is obviously too big. S3D says diameter * .707 .

    With the 0.5 mm nozzle, how is the detail? Got a close up print of your latest setting ( 0.5 nozzle with 0.4 layer height???

  7. #7
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    140x140

    Hmm, keyboard needs cleaning :-)

    Fine detail wise, go find the iris box pictures., few pages back i think.
    Also the acorn brooch.

    Honestly I've not noticed any difference between the 0.4 and 0.5 as far as quality and detail goes.
    But if you tryn and print 0.4 with a 0.4mm nozzle simplify3d complains. It does still work, but there's some reason you shouldn't do it. You don't get that issue with the 0.5.

    I've actually got a 0.8mm nozzle that I'll have to try out at some point. Bought a bag of cheap 0.5's, asI'm on the second nozzle already.
    Nearly up to 1.5km of filament used on Alexa !
    Which is around 5kg, I think.
    Not bad for just over 4 months and primarily small items.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 10-13-2017 at 02:20 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    Hmm, keyboard needs cleaning :-)

    Fine detail wise, go find the iris box pictures., few pages back i think.
    Also the acorn brooch.


    Nearly up to 1.5km of filament used on Alexa !
    Which is around 5kg, I think.
    Not bad for just over 4 months and primarily small items.
    I saw the iris and broaches. They look great. And that was a .5 mm nozzle? nice.

    5 kg of filament is a lot for 4 months. On my first printer, I think I did a kg a month for the first 34 months.
    This one, not so much yet.

    Spent the last several days trying to get the bed level. Could get the 3 points no problem, but it was far from smooth and level. the center dipped and the area between x and z was high. I now have 6 points around the perimeter level but the center is still down 0.1mm. Have to live with it for now. Had to get rid of the glass, as that was causing some issues.
    Probably need the print bite.
    Also will have to (want to ) compile in the distortion correction feature in repetier.

  9. #9
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    So here's the thing, printing fast at fairly large layer heights is ENTIRELY dependant on the filament.
    So far the flashforge filament has done absolutely everything I've asked it to - flawlessly.
    So someone asked for a yellow mould.

    I've got some dayglo yellow from reprapper tech.
    Complete and total bastard !
    Dropped to 0.3mm and 75mm/s - and it's still not brilliant. I have finally got it to stick and apart from a slightly dodgy corner it's currently looking quite good.
    I'd forgotten what it's like to have first layer issues

    I was talking to the last filament manufacturer in the uk at tct, and we got on to how colourant effects filament behaviour.
    he was saying the filament extruders run all day and you add colourant for whatever colour you want, you don't stop the machine when you add the colour.
    Unless you add yellow and then he said it'll pretty much always jam.
    After 2 hours fighting this stuff last night - I know exactly what he means !

    This is the first and last yellow mould !
    lol
    had to up the print temp to 220, slow it right down and smoosh it to the point that I was just barely beyond the point where the nozzle is blocked.

    The only other time I've used this stuff was a couple of years ago, And that was just little pumpkins, much easier first layer to print.
    Can't remember if I had problems then or not.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 10-14-2017 at 08:52 AM.

  10. #10
    Technologist
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    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    I'd forgotten what it's like to have first layer issues
    It is a sad club to join / be in. very frustrating.

    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    Unless you add yellow and then he said it'll pretty much always jam.
    Sorry ca, can you explain what a little more? Is he saying it will pretty much jam up in the extruder? Cause adhesion issues? I don't quite follow.

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