Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[Merijeek]

This is Hatchbox Orange PLA, since it's what I had the most of. No, not exactly the best color for a skull.


This picture was done at a retraction of 1.5 and a temperature of 215c.

[DaveB]

This is Hatchbox Orange PLA, since it's what I had the most of. No, not exactly the best color for a skull.


This picture was done at a retraction of 1.5 and a temperature of 215c.

Stringing is also often related to temperature. As 215 is a bit high for most PLA, you might drop it to 200-205 to see if that improves things.

You might also check out the S3D support page:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/p...ging-or-oozing

[Syd_Khaos]

Stringing is not really that big a deal. Sometimes ya just gotta live with a bit if everything else is looking good.

Strings are also about the most easy printing defect to remove post-print. Go to Harbor Freight, or Northern tools (or comparable discount tool store) and get adjustable heat gun for $10-15. Heat the print and just wipe away all the strings with a shop rag.

And like Dave said, you may want to try and dial in the nozzle temp a bit. 215c is a bit hot for PLA. Most run it just over 200c. I use 190-200c for PLA myself.

[wirlybird]

I need to print a piece that is 170 by 170. It will not be very tall so that is not an issue. Has anyone tried a slightly larger piece of glass or other method to extend the bed for special circumstances? this would only be for occasional use!
I am thinking for limited use I may go to the hardware store and just get a piece cut. It will be printed in PLA so temp isn't to bad.

[jfkansas]

I need to print a piece that is 170 by 170. It will not be very tall so that is not an issue. Has anyone tried a slightly larger piece of glass or other method to extend the bed for special circumstances? this would only be for occasional use!
I am thinking for limited use I may go to the hardware store and just get a piece cut. It will be printed in PLA so temp isn't to bad.

I'm not sure if there is enough travel for that, it would be very close to tripping the Y switch or hitting the front. 160 might be do able. You might have to split and glue that one.

[wirlybird]

I'm not sure if there is enough travel for that, it would be very close to tripping the Y switch or hitting the front. 160 might be do able. You might have to split and glue that one.

I haven't been able to open the file yet to get the exact dimensions but they told me 170X160. I'll have to measure the machine when I get home and see what I can do.

I figured for a one shot deal I might be able to get a chunk of window glass or something thin so heat moves faster and cut it to size.

Since it will be PLA and the part is about 10mm thick heat (heated bed) may not be a big issue.

[wirlybird]

Anyone read up on this yet? Looks interesting.

http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printe...l-upgrade.html

[Talon 3D]

Looks very very interesting indeed.
I would love one of those. I keep seeing things to upgrade on the printer and some that make me want to get second printer. LOL
I like the idea of 4 at once. That would actually solve my issue of making a 3 color print with support. Could throw the support material on one and the other three are open for colors.
The dual extrusion the QIDI is nice when using support material. Saves on cost with more expensive materials.

Anyone read up on this yet? Looks interesting.

http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printe...l-upgrade.html

[DaveB]

Anyone read up on this yet? Looks interesting.

http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printe...l-upgrade.html

Very interesting. I am not clear on how the color change works. The "multiplexer" obviously handles the electrical split across the 4 extruder stepper motors. The video seems to suggest a massive filament retraction between colors, but I have to wonder what the previously "melted" end of the filament is like and how jams of that retracted and misshapen end would be prevented? Particularly when the distorted filament end must again be (re-) used.

Also, does the height of the "waste tower" pace the height of the printed object? Is that parity maintained for filaments that are unused up to that point in the print?

[wirlybird]

Very interesting. I am not clear on how the color change works. The "multiplexer" obviously handles the electrical split across the 4 extruder stepper motors. The video seems to suggest a massive filament retraction between colors, but I have to wonder what the previously "melted" end of the filament is like and how jams of that retracted and misshapen end would be prevented? Particularly when the distorted filament end must again be (re-) used.

Also, does the height of the "waste tower" pace the height of the printed object? Is that parity maintained for filaments that are unused up to that point in the print?

Good questions.