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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by Firepower View Post
    I failed. It did not warp but one end came off and went crunch crunch with the head until I stopped it

    I was on 75 degrees on the bed and 240 degrees. I thought it was a bit hot and took it to 230 degrees and 10 seconds later one end came off. Reducing the temperature may not have caused it to come off?

    Probably hard to do as it it fairly long and the sides are very thin.
    You will want the bed at 110C once the print has started. I start with 75C then ramp up to 110C after the bottom layer in order to reduce waiting times for the bed to heat up. So that's your first problem. Nozzle temperature should not affect bed adhesion.

    Quote Originally Posted by Firepower View Post
    I got to .08" before it came off. The rest was stuck good and put the diluted PVA on the Kapton.
    Was that a mis-type, and did you mean "diluted ABS"?

  2. #2
    Engineer-in-Training iDig3Dprinting's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by danilius View Post
    You will want the bed at 110C .....
    we second this, 75C is too low for the heated bed for ABS, 100-110 is more usual.

  3. #3
    Hi iDig3Dprinting

    I am inn the process of changing back to PLA to do a few things. I could not push through the PLA but must have been I did not have the new PLA lined up with the hole. So I pulled the head apart but it was easy to push through the ABS.

    The ABS kept bending up from the ends at the 100-110 and it was mentioned to try the 75 degrees for the first few layers. I'll get back to ABS sometime soon but will try PLA for a while.

    Wondered if I could just put glass on my bed and what thickness glass if you are you are using glass. Mine is a
    Cocoon Printer (Wanhao Duplicator i3).

  4. #4
    Seeing I am only new to the 3D printing it is good to see the PLA works great.

    I'll get back to the ABS soon and thanks for all the information.PLA.jpg

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by danilius View Post
    You will want the bed at 110C once the print has started. I start with 75C then ramp up to 110C after the bottom layer in order to reduce waiting times for the bed to heat up. So that's your first problem. Nozzle temperature should not affect bed adhesion.



    Was that a mis-type, and did you mean "diluted ABS"?

    I did use diluted PVA glue but I'll use the diluted ABS next time and I have plenty of lacquer thinners.

    The PVA made it stick a lot better on the kapton.

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