MakerFarm 10" i3v build

[dacb]

Yeah, that shroud design is pretty poor. It certainly wasn't tested much by whoever came up with it. I think more than one user here has thought their hot end was leaking when it was likely only the shroud melting. I now trim out the bottom, flat part of the shroud to clear the aluminum block.

That is a great idea. For some reason, I thought you had also switched to clough42's extruder fan setup.

I need to figure out how to remove the melted plastic from the extruder. Maybe soak it in acetone overnight.

[printbus]

That is a great idea. For some reason, I thought you had also switched to clough42's extruder fan setup.

I need to figure out how to remove the melted plastic from the extruder. Maybe soak it in acetone overnight.

Nope. I have LEDs mounted under the carriage and had glued-up the X-carriage prior to painting so for now I'm stuck. To clean mine up, I just turned on the heater and wiped it off carefully as the block got hot.

[dacb]

Nope. I have LEDs mounted under the carriage and had glued-up the X-carriage prior to painting so for now I'm stuck. To clean mine up, I just turned on the heater and wiped it off carefully as the block got hot.

Again, this is great information. I actually copied your approach for the LED strips under the X-carriage, but haven't wired them up yet. I'm thinking of putting them on D9 (IIRC) of the RAMPS board so they only run during the print process.

[printbus]

Again, this is great information. I actually copied your approach for the LED strips under the X-carriage, but haven't wired them up yet. I'm thinking of putting them on D9 (IIRC) of the RAMPS board so they only run during the print process.

There's nothing wrong with wiring them to D9, but you'll have to remember to tell your slicer to enable cooling so that D9 gets turned on for the print. Personally, I'd save D9 for the option of adding a print cooling fan. You may find you want those LEDs on more than you think - when checking bed clearance, when manually extruding after a color change, when wiping off the hot end nozzle, etc. If you followed my LED scheme, note that clough42's revised hex hot end shroud system uses a different baseplate on the X-carriage that has a 25mm fan right where you probably have those undercarriage LEDs.

[dacb]

There's nothing wrong with wiring them to D9, but you'll have to remember to tell your slicer to enable cooling so that D9 gets turned on for the print. Personally, I'd save D9 for the option of adding a print cooling fan. You may find you want those LEDs on more than you think - when checking bed clearance, when manually extruding after a color change, when wiping off the hot end nozzle, etc. If you followed my LED scheme, note that clough42's revised hex hot end shroud system uses a different baseplate on the X-carriage that has a 25mm fan right where you probably have those undercarriage LEDs.

Very useful details, thank you. I hadn't thought about the other ways the lighting might be useful.

Actually, the need to replace the baseplate for clough42's fan is a big concern I've had. Among other things, I worry that the ABS might heat up and sag.

How is your pot holder/trivet that you mentioned in your build thread working? I think the cardboard I'm using isn't providing enough insulation and this causes the bed temp to drop from 110 to 100 during the start of the printing process (I'm doing ABS right now). I will mention that I did apply Kapton tape the underside of the bed per your idea, to prevent scratching the traces while removing the clips.

[printbus]

Very useful details, thank you. I hadn't thought about the other ways the lighting might be useful.

Actually, the need to replace the baseplate for clough42's fan is a big concern I've had. Among other things, I worry that the ABS might heat up and sag.

How is your pot holder/trivet that you mentioned in your build thread working? I think the cardboard I'm using isn't providing enough insulation and this causes the bed temp to drop from 110 to 100 during the start of the printing process (I'm doing ABS right now). I will mention that I did apply Kapton tape the underside of the bed per your idea.

The pot holder thing seems to be working fine, although I unintentionally ended up with a pretty good air gap under the heat bed too. I adjust all four corners of the bed now, and I'll bring the bed down a bit the next time I'm adjusting the Z endstop. 10 degrees seems like a pretty hefty temperature drop. The 10-inch comes with a heat bed relay; I'd probably start by measuring the voltage at the output of the relay and seeing how much it changes when you see the temperature drop. That might at least eliminate concerns that the power supply is dropping or that the wire gauge to the relay is too small.

Seems like a smart move on the kapton under the edges of the heater circuit board. I haven't had things apart enough to install it yet.

[dacb]

I wanted to make a note for anyone who upgrades to the aluminum spiral couplings like I did: you will need to put some foil tape around the lead screw to make it large enough to fit a 5mm coupling. Also, the two different brands of couplers I tried (one from MakerFarm and another random from ebay) obscured the Z end-stop so that it is nearly impossible to adjust. That is remedied by either taking your 5mm hex wrench and cutting 7mm or so off the short leg so that there is room to work behind the coupler or better yet, moving to the screw adjustable end-stop for the 10" from MiniMadRyan.

10 degrees seems like a pretty hefty temperature drop. The 10-inch comes with a heat bed relay; I'd probably start by measuring the voltage at the output of the relay and seeing how much it changes when you see the temperature drop. That might at least eliminate concerns that the power supply is dropping or that the wire gauge to the relay is too small.

Great suggestion. I used two 16 gauge ATX power supply wires into the heat bed relay from the PS. This should be enough for the current the bed draws. For the next print I do, I'll put a voltmeter on the relay and set it up next to the camera. I note that I don't have any temperature drop for PLA when I run the bed at 70. I'm wondering if the extruder fan shroud is blowing air down onto the bed and cooling it faster than it can reheat. Once my working piece of ABS gets a centimeter or more tall or wide enough, the temperature goes back up to 110. I'm using the stock fan shroud model, though I have had to print it as the original melted before I discovered your trick if cutting it out and using Kapton tape.

[printbus]

I don't recall which thread mentioned it, but 1stage has tweaked the extruder base a bit to provide more adjustment room in the NEMA17 holes - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:409162. Even this was still tight on my extruder rebuild, and I used a needle file to lengthen the slots a bit more. I then also use longer bolts on the motor so the heads are on the rear side of the plate, ensuring I can use as much of the increased slot length as I can (otherwise the recessed bolt head will still be limiting this). I also believe the original Wades design had gears with straight teeth. I've wondered whether the tightness issue is with whoever adapted to the herribone gear design.

EDIT: Here's the post where 1stage mentioned the revised base - http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ll=1#post15505

[dacb]

I note that the adjustable Z-end stop has moved from Thingiverse to Youmagine. Here is the new link: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ma...top-bracket--2

[mikamiko]

"It is very easy to build" like it