Hi

The smaller power supply fits fine on the "standard" mounts supplied with the kit. If you are buying parts to go with a kit, that's the one to get.

The kit shows up in a great big box. The V-Slot is all in a big bundle. There are a couple of plastic boxes with parts in them and a few other bundles of parts in the box. It's not a fancy shipping approach. It does the job and everything got here in fine shape.

First step in the instructions is to build up the bottom of the frame. The *real* first step is to find a place to build the printer. You want a *flat* surface. Do *not* do as I did and check the surface after the build is almost done. While you are at it, grab a level. Don't just check the surface for flatness. Check it for level as well. Later in the process this will come in handy. If you have a fancy machinist's level, use it. If yours came from Home Depot, it will do an better job than guessing.

You essentially build a square out of V-Slot in the first step. After it's together, make sure it's planar (flat). Also check the diagonals of the square. String is an adequate way to do the job. They just need to be equal. No need to invest in that 30" caliper Before you put the assembly aside, put a sticker on it to identify front from back. You go back and forth between assemblies. Without some sort of identification, it's *very* easy to get things rotated.

The next step involves doing the same thing with the top of the cube as with the bottom. The same approach applies. One thing not in the instructions - if you have a dual extruder kit, there are *two* spool holders. The second spool holder goes on opposite the one shown in the instructions.

Next up is to put the uprights on the lower frame. That involves positioning the uprights that will support the X axis carriage. The trick is to get them the same. It may be easier to find a ~ 140 mm spacer than to try to measure both distances. Getting them the same to within 1 mm is far more important than getting them to exactly 140.

You would *think* the next step is to put on the top of the assembly. Nope. There is a bunch more to do before that happens. See why we wanted a label on the upper assembly ? .

Mounting a bunch of hardware to hold the motors and belts goes pretty well. There are a couple of bumps in the road:

You set the distance to the left hand Y rail as part of this process. The 78 mm number in the instructions sets the bed a bit to the left of the assembly. With the smaller power supply (remember that) there is no real need to push it that far over. If you go up to about 100 mm, the bed will be centered. That gives you the max print area with dual extruders.

There is a lot of fiddly stuff to get the Y rails flat and properly spaced. Don't bother with that at this point. Simply accept that they will be re-done later. You may just wait to space the left rail at that point.

The second bump is the structure for the front bearing on the Y axis belt. This is not unique to this kit. The simple answer is to get a shorter bolt for the bearings. Mr Metric on the web or Home Depot are your choices. Don't get me wrong, the supplied bolt *does* work. It's just a bit of a pain to adjust.

This is also the first point that you are playing with wires. Hopefully you read the other thread and are working with 1/4" nylon jacketing for the wires. I like to color code mine with 3M colored plastic tape. That cuts down on the fray bundle at the end of the wire. A small nylon tie over the tape keeps everything in place.

Enough for now. Back to printing upgrades !!

Trust me, it's worth doing this printer right. Once you get it working, it does very good prints. Take your time. Get it done right. Mess up the details and you will be going a bit crazy for a long time ...

Bob