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Thread: Diy it?
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05-13-2016, 04:40 AM #11
- Join Date
- Jun 2014
- Location
- Burnley, UK
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- 1,662
If there are enough people then you should stick with the original PCB. You can get 10 blank PCBs made by dirtyprototypes for $20 or so. I am sure that someone will take that task on if there are enough people to pay for them.
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05-13-2016, 06:46 AM #12
- Join Date
- May 2015
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- 43
Hi all.
I'm glad we're looking at DIYing this. It was something I always thought would happen even before the "big bad news". Just like reprap....?
Times like this we need to 'lay' everything we have on the table and make an assessment.
What hardware does Peachy inc have in either storage or still waiting to be delivered?
What skills does the community have?
Locations of the community members?
What’s left to finish, anything?
My thoughts at the moment. I know we can do this and slowly work to bring the peachy from the dead. It will take time but that’s how things go.
The mention of using a wiki is a great idea.
With regards to distributing the remaining stock. One way would be for someone to take that take on, then maybe offload distribute to volunteers for different countries?
The first person in this chain should ideally be local to Peachy inc (to reduce the initial shipping cost).
I’m more than happy to be a distribute point for the UK (I’m South Yorkshire based).
I’ll have to look at the regulations regarding shipping laser diodes. I’m not sure but I think you only need the certification if it’s a user product, which in our case if it was just the component we’re clear (after all, it was shipped to peachy inc).
One of the most important things to consider. Who is the driver of this? There always needs to be someone keeping an eye on the ball or things really start to slip or simply donot happen…. Rylan….. or are you a broken man now? Lol.
Last but not least, I made a joke.
With a peachy printer and a big enough build area you can build a boat. With enough backers you can build a house.
My few thoughts at the moment.
So… Who wants to build a wiki? (It’s easy btw).
EDIT: My skill set:
I've worked with an arduino, well, more of the atmega chips directly (cheaper, something like 75p each) so I can help with that side of things.
I'm a little rusty but still sharp.my gut says try an arduino... just because they're so common... Even reprap changed to the atmega chips.
Other skills, coding, I've done a good chunk of it, but it's not my day job (I'm a sysadmin for a datacentre).
IT man... and I have a normal fdm 3d printer.Last edited by jontelling; 05-13-2016 at 08:23 AM.
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05-13-2016, 06:53 AM #13
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- May 2014
- Posts
- 5
For big prints perhaps a cluster of printhead's ? :-)
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05-13-2016, 08:00 AM #14
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05-13-2016, 10:38 AM #15
- Join Date
- May 2014
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- 60
OK, I'm getting close to having everything in position so I can start simplifying it. Here's what I don't get:
How does laser mount A & B attach/work?
How does static dampener A & B attach/work?
What is the "standoff" for?
How does the PCB mount?
most of what I've done so-far, is from looking at the completed images but these four parts differ enough from what I've found that I'm having trouble identifying where they go and how they attach. Any insight anyone can provide would help me out a lot.
EDIT: I just realized im working with the scads for the oil-dampened version, rather then the magnetic dampened version. That will have to be fixed.Last edited by oninoshiko; 05-14-2016 at 12:11 AM.
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05-14-2016, 04:04 AM #16
- Join Date
- Jan 2016
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- 14
Sorry for a really noob question.
I assume the files in the repository were written with some free software. Whats the best to use. I really just want to see a part list in English not in scad and dxf. Simple questions like what's the laser used I couldn't answer.
OpenSCAD opens the files but I'm still confused. I saw the instructional video had a printed part list shouldn't that document file be somewhere?Last edited by Alchemy; 05-14-2016 at 04:18 AM.
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05-14-2016, 10:31 AM #17
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- May 2014
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- 60
The PCBs where done with a package called "Eagle" which is not FOSS, but does have a limited version avalible hobbist use. I haven't done much with them yet, but the peachy should be a simple enough design that it should work with the free version of Eagle. I plan on converting them to an open source package called "Kicad" to make it easier on us hobbiests.
You've already discovered OpenSCAD, which takes some getting used to, but works well for this type of thing (particualarly for the programming-inclined). I'm not suprised it's what Ryland decided to work with, because (dispite our differences in style) it's exactly what I would have used.
I'm not sure where the partlist is, we're still getting a handle on things. Right now it's a bit like comming into to Pripyat once the dead-zone is decalared "safe": everyone dropped what they where doing and fled, so entering now noone knows what's where. We're trying to sort through it and get things working again, but it's likely going to take a month or so.Last edited by oninoshiko; 05-14-2016 at 10:49 AM.
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05-15-2016, 10:47 AM #18
when you've got a $100 kit that doesn''t need soldering - I'll buy one :-)
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05-18-2016, 12:04 AM #19
Wiki
Wiki and discussion.
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05-18-2016, 06:08 PM #20
- Join Date
- Sep 2013
- Posts
- 308
Not Broken at all
Currently spending some time trying to fix this in a big way by talking to investors.
The beautiful thing about a freedom respecting project is that no one persons actions can kill it,
but any one person can keep it going. Great work everyone, great Ideas here.
Holes and pockmarks in print walls
06-04-2024, 09:14 AM in General 3D Printing Discussion