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  1. #1381
    Technologist cncartist's Avatar
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    Dark - Modular meaning connecting special USB extension wires instead of soldering. Similar to what I did with the Arduino project box I designed, breadboard jumpers everywhere I could instead of soldering to make it easier for others to build.

    rcleav, thanks for the link! It seems like that's the manual that should've come with the printer.

    Quote Originally Posted by JimHs1 View Post
    My printer was delivered today. Orange PLA and white ABS. Will assemble and try it out tomorrow.
    Very nice! I replied to your question in the Qidi group on the forum. Using the pause function, one time I re-bonded a piece of support to the build plate using acetone weld. That was intense!

  2. #1382
    Quote Originally Posted by cncartist View Post
    Dark - Modular meaning connecting special USB extension wires instead of soldering. Similar to what I did with the Arduino project box I designed, breadboard jumpers everywhere I could instead of soldering to make it easier for others to build.

    rcleav, thanks for the link! It seems like that's the manual that should've come with the printer.



    Very nice! I replied to your question in the Qidi group on the forum. Using the pause function, one time I re-bonded a piece of support to the build plate using acetone weld. That was intense!
    I only briefly looked at your project box and was saving it for when I try and build one but this extension wiring you mentioned I need to look at. How would that be better, or worse, than having it at the back where the current USB is at?

  3. #1383
    Technologist cncartist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkAlchemist View Post
    I only briefly looked at your project box and was saving it for when I try and build one but this extension wiring you mentioned I need to look at. How would that be better, or worse, than having it at the back where the current USB is at?
    You showed an image of one last page, they are just special length USB extensions with unique ends that eliminate soldering from the board. It really doesn't matter where the board is placed if it works long term, but having it extended gives more positional freedom if the design/wiring calls for it during prototyping.

  4. #1384
    Quote Originally Posted by cncartist View Post
    You showed an image of one last page, they are just special length USB extensions with unique ends that eliminate soldering from the board. It really doesn't matter where the board is placed if it works long term, but having it extended gives more positional freedom if the design/wiring calls for it during prototyping.
    Okay I just wanted to make 100% sure you were talking about that and why I was going to do it that way but it is the end I am mainly concerned about and how to attach it without drilling for those two screws (one on each side) since people don't like drilling.

  5. #1385
    Are the extruders the same that are on the flash force / makerbot? I'm looking at getting a 0.2mm nozzle though it's for a makerbot. Will it fit this?

  6. #1386
    Quote Originally Posted by electrichammer View Post
    Are the extruders the same that are on the flash force / makerbot? I'm looking at getting a 0.2mm nozzle though it's for a makerbot. Will it fit this?
    MK10 is MK10 so as long as it says MK10 it will fit but make 100% sure it is not a MK8 style as those will not fit (I prefer a MK8 myself).

  7. #1387
    no feedback to my last pic? i will put here again and hope someone can tell me what could be the problem... also is it really necessary to open up the door and remove the hood when printing pla?

    DSC_0746.jpg

  8. #1388
    Any idea how to change the e-steps values on this thing?

    Also on a side note, im having issues with simplify3D. I print a 0.4mm wall and it turns out 1.4mm.

    Print the same 0.4mm wall in makerbot and its correct. This tells me its a setting issue within simplify3d, but i have no idea what it could be!

    Any ideas on this issues as well?
    Last edited by electrichammer; 05-06-2016 at 03:52 AM.

  9. #1389
    I have a "turbo fan" question. So, the printer instructions say that when printing with PLA to use the turbo fan. To do so I should select "Set Cooling Fan OFF" in the printer menu. That seems backwards. Is the fan talked about in the menu a different fan than the "turbo fan" and by setting it to OFF turns OFF the regular fan and turns ON the turbo fan? Something is getting lost in translation for me here. Ideas?

    Todd

  10. #1390
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    5 minutes of warm up time is nothing really when you compare it with the typical print being 2-5 hours or more. As a percentage of time it just isn't that big of deal.


    Quote Originally Posted by cncartist View Post
    I just started another print and the heat times aren't bad. It definitely isn't a machine for mass production as it does take ~5 minutes but I agree with Syd above. The only beef I have with it is that it doesn't start heating the extruder when the build plate gets to 80/110C or something similar. It might even be possible already but we just don't know how.




    I also wish the machine had more customization in firmware/software but that level of customization isn't for everybody. Yes, Sailfish wasn't documented yet from what I know but hopefully it will be in the near future.

    If you end up swapping the board out that would be something I'm sure people would be very interested in. If you would like to document the procedures that would be awesome to see a full tutorial.

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