Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[Syd_Khaos]

is this a different brand from what you have used in the past?
I hear different colors even from the same mfg. can have slightly different temp settings.
Also check the Dia. of the filament.

Nope, this stuff is from Orb, same as my last roll of ABS, but that roll is black.
This is happening on filament load so its at 230c.
I messured in 6 different places over about 2 meters of filament. Got 1.68 to 1.74.

[rcleav]

Should be ok but how does it compare to the black ABS?

[Syd_Khaos]

Should be ok but how does it compare to the black ABS?

The color is great, past that not sure how it prints as I can't get it to feed properly.

[Syd_Khaos]

Ok, I found the issue. Was a clog just after the feed gear and prior to the PTFE tube.

I have a new issue that is far worse now. To clear the clog I had to remove the spring loaded arm (that holds the smooth feed wheel) and when I did a little brass tube fell out. I did not see where it came from, nor can I see any obvious place for it to go.
Working on the left side, it seemed to come from upper right of the mount arm, but not sure.

[kaznad]

Hey Guys,

I am wondering on the bed leveling, if I am doing it right.

So we have do it all manually right? So I use the utilities to bring the print bed up then I manually move the extruder (right extruder) right over the front right wing nut and adjust it till a business card slightly touches the tip. Then I move the extruder over to the left wing nut and adjust the same way and then do the same thing at the back wing nut.

I read that we need to disable the stepper motors while doing the leveling? Do you guys level the bed before every print?

Thanks.

[rcleav]

After starting the leveling process you don't need to do anything but move the extruders around to several points. Front Corners, Rear Center, Rear Corners, Left middle, Middle and Right Middle.

[Syd_Khaos]

Hey Guys,

I am wondering on the bed leveling, if I am doing it right.

So we have do it all manually right? So I use the utilities to bring the print bed up then I manually move the extruder (right extruder) right over the front right wing nut and adjust it till a business card slightly touches the tip. Then I move the extruder over to the left wing nut and adjust the same way and then do the same thing at the back wing nut.

I read that we need to disable the stepper motors while doing the leveling? Do you guys level the bed before every print?

Thanks.

I use the 'Home Axis' command for leveling. Gets the machine to the same point, but also zeros out the axis.

When you level the plate make sure you are leveling to the nozzle you intend to use for the print. Start with the nozzle over the front 2 mount screws. Once ya get it nice n level on those 2 move to the back mount. Once the plate is showing level over all 3 mount screws you should check a few other places on the plate, depending on the print. If its a smaller print check the level in a few spots around the center of the plate. For large prints check dead center of plate and a few random spots around the edge.

You should check level between prints, but typically I only have to relevel my plate every few prints. This can change depending on what you print, you will get a feel for it. Doing a long print with complex shapes (causing the extruder trolly to make lots of rapid changes) has a much greater chance of unleveling the plate than printing a small box would for instance.

Stepper motors, by nature, will free-spool when not being told to move. Once you use 'Home Axis' or the leveling command and it comes to rest you should be able to move any of the steppers by hand without an issue.

One last tip...something that got me when I first started printing. DO NOT let your hand rest on the wingnuts while you check the level. Adjust the wingnut and REMOVE you hand then check the level, rinse and repeat ya. After a while I realized I was putting a bit of upward pressure on the plate when leaving my fingers on the wingnut without noticing.

[caall99]

Here is quick update on my 12mm rod upgrade. The 12mm rods are installed and I've been printing on them for a few days. They work and the platform seems more steady while printing. There is definitely less side to side movement. I haven't noticed a huge increase in print quality, the quality wasn't that bad to start with and it is still pretty good. I tried to do a before and after test print but it looks about the same, not sure If my test print was the right structure to see a different.

So was the upgrade worth it? I only spent about $45 on the upgrade. It was kind of a pain to disassemble the entire machine (I had to do it about 3 times to get the adapter parts designed right). It was kind of fun to do so yes I think it was worth it, at least for me. I'll try to get the parts posted to Thingiverse in the next week or so, maybe somebody else can do it and figure out better test structures to test before and after.

Here are some pictures:

Bearing adapters (Also designed a new shim for 1/8" glass to fit the new bearings)
Attachment 9151

Bottom adapter
Attachment 9152

Top adapter
Attachment 9153

Kludge! I love what you did here. Looks very professional! I assume disassembly is limited to the rear panel? I am interested in attempting this mod as well, but am more focused on pertinent issues, such as a flat build plate.

My MagHold aluminum plate, much like yours, is in fact warped. The middle front being the highest point, followed by the middle back, and the corners being the lowest points. I checked this with multiple test prints, and a couple stainless steel flat edges. I am currently unable to print across the entire build area without having poor adhesion (if any) on the sides, and a severely squashed first layer in the middle. I have sent a request for a replacement, but worry this is the nature of aluminum. As I heat the build plate the warping gets worse, but still noticeable even at room temperature. This is really unfortunate, because I believe the MagHold idea is by far the most convenient and enjoyable improvement to hobby grade 3D printing... I just don't know if the aluminum can be kept from warping...

[jfkansas]

That brass thing is a pivot bushing for the arm.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:857200

There is a video of it on this item. Can also print these much better feeder plastics while you are at it. :-)

Ok, I found the issue. Was a clog just after the feed gear and prior to the PTFE tube.

I have a new issue that is far worse now. To clear the clog I had to remove the spring loaded arm (that holds the smooth feed wheel) and when I did a little brass tube fell out. I did not see where it came from, nor can I see any obvious place for it to go.
Working on the left side, it seemed to come from upper right of the mount arm, but not sure.

[rcleav]

My MagHold aluminum plate, much like yours, is in fact warped. The middle front being the highest point, followed by the middle back, and the corners being the lowest points. I checked this with multiple test prints, and a couple stainless steel flat edges. I am currently unable to print across the entire build area without having poor adhesion (if any) on the sides, and a severely squashed first layer in the middle. I have sent a request for a replacement, but worry this is the nature of aluminum. As I heat the build plate the warping gets worse, but still noticeable even at room temperature. This is really unfortunate, because I believe the MagHold idea is by far the most convenient and enjoyable improvement to hobby grade 3D printing... I just don't know if the aluminum can be kept from warping...

Not to sound like a broken record but using glass is just as easy and there is no warping issues.
Even 1/8" glass plates would solve the warping issue and it's much cheaper.