Results 561 to 570 of 4110
Thread: Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone
-
03-16-2016, 12:50 PM #561
- Join Date
- Feb 2016
- Posts
- 96
A million times yes! It's very hard to find a proper 1/8" shim that fits the QIDI Tech. I've tried slicing off 1/8" from the standard 1/4" shims but due to how they are modeled (or my bad editing), it produces "thin ceilings" sort to speak.
Edit: The reason I went with 1/8" glass is that's the standard depth of glass. I went to a framing shop and they said all their glass is 1/8" and 1/4" is "only used for mirrors, typically". I didn't want to pay $20 + shipping for 1/4" glass from McMaster. Where did you guys all get your 1/4" glass? I am surprised that's the standard.
-
03-16-2016, 01:21 PM #562
I ordered a kit from makersome.com and paid $40 for it. I was kicking myself once I realized I could get it from McMaster for $20... should have known to check there first. The kit came with the Z-Axis shim and the corner mounts which neither worked for me and I had to print my own. The glass corners aren't even square and it fits on my bed a little crooked, I've been debating order some glass from McMaster but I've already spent enough on the printer as it is.
http://makersome.com/store/glass-bed-upgrade-kit/
Can anybody think of a reason not to use a mirror to print on? Will the standard 1/4" mirror glass stand up to the heat cycling? I've also been thinking of going to a local glass shop to see how much it would cost to cut me a couple extra.
-
03-16-2016, 01:23 PM #563
- Join Date
- Feb 2016
- Posts
- 360
I ordered a 1/4" plate from MCMasterCar. Seems like the majority of those printing on glass are doing so on either 5mm or 1/4" plates.
For me it was also easy choice due to what there is locally. Best stuff I can get intown is some cooking grade 'pyrex' glass. The stuff McMasterCar sells is double tempered borosilicate glass, its couple grades above the cooking stuff.
What software are you using to try and modify the shims? I didnt have any issues shaving a bit off the shim in Blender.
-
03-16-2016, 04:48 PM #564
- Join Date
- Feb 2016
- Posts
- 96
I am using Tinkercad. Mind you, it's not just shrinking the height that's the problem. Depending on the design (like if it fits over a lip or is "multi-tiered", you might end up with either too little plastic left (weak, thing ceilings, floors) or the measurements are off. I am not saying it can't be done and yes it seems really simple but I just had issues. I might just stick with the one Kludge made and try to account for the extra spacing with the adjustment screws. I hope they have enough travel.
Edit: What was your shipping cost for the 9x6 1/4" glass from McMasterCarr? Also, does anyone know if the bed sizes for the Qidi differs from the Flashforge? All the corner brackets I have seen on Thingiverse are designed for glass that is too small for the base. Like people buy 9x6" glass but the bed is slightly larger so it creates like a lip. So confusing. Here's an example - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:613685
-
03-16-2016, 06:41 PM #565
- Join Date
- Feb 2016
- Posts
- 360
Does TinkerCAD not allow you to scale mesh on a single axis? I have never used it before.
When I redid my z-shim I just loaded it in, layed it 'flat' and scaled it on z axis only.
It really does not have to be super durable. Not alot of pressure being applied to the shim in normal operation.
Was $6-7 for shipping on the glass from McMasterCar, somewhere in there, dont recall exactly.
edit:
If your having issues scaling the shim down you could always just lower the area that touches the limiter switch. You really only need the little bit that contacts the limiter (and like 5mm on each side for breathing room) to be the correct height. May be a workaround for the flimsy issues you were having.Last edited by Syd_Khaos; 03-16-2016 at 07:52 PM.
-
03-16-2016, 11:51 PM #566
- Join Date
- Mar 2016
- Posts
- 45
-
03-17-2016, 02:02 AM #567
- Join Date
- Feb 2016
- Posts
- 96
You got us. Maybe this printer isn't for you.
-
03-17-2016, 02:14 AM #568
- Join Date
- Feb 2016
- Posts
- 57
Can someone confirm if these settings are correct with all these left and right extruder inconsistencies?
Edit: Actually it looks like whoever made these settings in the first place had their left extruder named T1 and their right extruder T0 for some reason.
Edit: I just tried these scripts in my gcode, and the head banged into the far left side.Last edited by dspdrew; 03-17-2016 at 10:48 AM.
-
03-17-2016, 03:19 AM #569
- Join Date
- Mar 2016
- Posts
- 45
-
03-17-2016, 07:51 AM #570
I originally had that problem and found that I had to change this line of code in each of the scripts:
Code:G1 X-110 Y-75 Z30 F9000 ; Move to wait position off table
New to 3d printing looking for...
05-20-2024, 12:56 AM in Tips, Tricks and Tech Help