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  1. #12
    Technician
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    80
    I wouldnt have bought those mirrors, B&Q are expensive as hell!

    And yeah, I had red tape on mine as well, but it loses adhesion very quickly, hence why your prints are coming off as well.

    I then used normal masking tape and cheap pritt stick from poundland.
    I then printed these bed extenders: http://www.thingiverse.com/bigo93/co...s/ctc-upgrades
    There are only 2 files but you need 2 of each print.

    And then as I said, again from poundland, buy a 8x10 inch photo frame/mirror
    The photo frame glass is very thin as I said, not sure how thick the mirror one is though so you might want to get that instead. But my guess is same thickness.

    So once you finally get the extenders printed, add them and the glass.

    If you are using PLA then buy some hairspray or use the pritt stick on the glass.
    I've used more ABS for my parts as it has a higher melting temp than PLA.
    Even though printing these upgrade parts in PLA is OK, I'd rather stay safe and print with ABS since some pieces are close to the hot areas of the printer.

    Since installing my glass plate and buying the pure acetone, I have used ABS juice.
    And since then not had a single print come loose.

    If you get thicker glass you then need a shim to place at the back on the Z axis: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:911247/#files
    You need to print the Adapter and the required shim for whatever thickness your glass is.
    The adapter goes on the wooden bit, then the shim into the slot of the adapter.
    What this does is push the Z axis switch earlier when you level the bed to compensate for the extra thickness of the glass you use.


    To alter makerware profiles, you need to create a custom profile first. This then allows you to click Edit in Text Editor when you click advanced.
    This opens it in wordpad and you can edit and save it there.

    Again as these are cheap printers, the thermocouples are cheap ones as well.
    This means that the temperature may not actually be the temperature the printer says it is.
    Thats why I'm buying that laser temp gun. As well as for fun.

    Oh and if you ever need a belt tension spring, try this first: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgOsRUsS4VI

    Then there is calibration that needs doing.
    I found this link http://www.instructables.com/id/Cali...imal-filament/
    But no idea how to save the new steps/mm to the printer.

    Just found this link https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1623
    Gonna try the trial of S3D when I get my printer as ready as much as I can, then try this then.
    Last edited by bigo93; 01-22-2016 at 08:46 PM.

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