Quote Originally Posted by BLKKROW View Post
...I just tried to print with it and I ran into the same issue, the funny thing is that the last few times I attempted a print and then later found it air printing, I noticed the filament is being folded over inside the area around the hobbled bolt.
Um, what is the "same issue"? Filament being notched by the hobbed bolt? Are you saying the Hatchbox filament did not fold over like others had before?

I don't think you previously mentioned the filament folding over, even though that is critical info. Of course, once the filament has folded the fact that the filament is carved by the hobbed bolt is pointless to pursue. The filament folding over opens up new possibilities. A few others have battled that. One possible take is that you have issues since you're using 1.75mm filament in an extruder body really better suited for 3mm - a minor detail Colin won't admit to you. The feed hole below the hobbed bolt has to be large enough to pass 3mm filament. 1.75mm will fit, but with slop around it than can encourage some slight bending in the filament that could be the start of the folding problem. One way to try eliminating that is to add a liner tube to the feed hole below the hobbed bolt in the extruder base. Before I revamped the extruder design to fix the issue for real, I used 2mm ID aluminum tubing. Someone had reported a length of empty ink tube from a Bic pen worked fine as well. Of course, the E3Dv6 hot end provides a PTFE tube that can pass up through that hole. Also, envision the difference between 3mm and 1.75mm filament being pressed between the hobbed bolt and the guidler bearing. When you use 1.75mm filament, the filament has to be pushed over to the hobbed bolt side, leading to a misalignment between the filament and the feed hole in the extruder base. This often works OK, but perhaps in some cases this misalignment leads to a problem. The extruder design revamp that I've linked to previously makes it easier to adjust both of these issues as part of optimizing a Wades extruder for your particulars.

The one thing that it could be but I highly doubt is the fact I lost the heat sinks for the stepper drivers, so they have been running without them. I am going to contact Collin and see if I can get some replacements. If that doesn't fix the issue the only thing left is the Hexagon Hot End which I have been reading online has had issues with the 1.75mm filament not working.
You've lost me, and likely others. What issue are you having that could be caused by the missing heatsinks on the stepper drivers? The heatsinks would make a difference in whether the drivers would overheat. If they overheat, they simply don't step. Folded filament or the filament being carved by the hobbed bolt would not be a symptom of this.

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You previously mentioned you were going to try printing at 230 degrees. Did you try that? Don't fret over the absolute temperature number, at least for test prints. Maybe even try a higher temperature than 230. Print at whatever temperature setting works for you. A temperature is too hot only if the print is demonstrating features of the filament being printed too hot. The uncalibrated thermistor scheme used in the rep rap printers is generally known to only be good to +/- 20 or 30 degrees - it could be that your setup is reading high for some reason. Are you still running MakerFarm provided firmware, or your own build? If the latter, are you sure the firmware was built with the proper thermistor type selected? You should be able to feel a difference in how filament can be manually pushed through the hot end as the hot end temperature is changed - use that as input in figuring out what a good printing temperature is, not what a filament manufacturer, Colin, your neighbor, or anyone else says you should print at.