Aluminum bed upgrade?

[super fly]

That cord should be fine. Many people just cut the end off an extra computer or similar power cord that they had laying around. The power supplies don't have an on/off switch. If you don't want to unplug the printer to shut it off, a common solution is to plug the printer into a switched outlet strip.

On the aluminum plate, note that the aluminum plate may weigh considerably more than the stock wood one. Worst case, you might need to slow down the acceleration settings for the Y axis in Marlin to keep the Y motor from skipping steps at movement starts/stops. If you have a digital scale that can read grams or fractions of ounces, be sure to weigh both the wood bed and the aluminum bed and report back on what you measure. People have been wondering what these new aluminum beds weigh - an obvious detail that MakerFarm hasn't listed.

I was originally going to get an 8". Now I have my eyes on getting a 10" i3v, I figure for the price it will be nice to have the extra space just in case. I have been talking with Colin and doing quite of bit of research. Here is what I got from him on the wood vs aluminum bed weights.

I have the weights for the 12" heat bed mounts, which should be similar to the 10", just lighter.

The 12" aluminum bed is 1lb 11ounces, the 12" wood mount is 1lb 6 ounces so only 5 ounces different. My guess is the 10" difference is less, maybe 4 ounces.

What I'm thinking is 10", E3Dv6 .4mm 1.75mm filament, standard electronics and extruder. I'm not sure on the aluminum bed yet though. That's what led me to this post. Not to hijack the thread but thoughts/comments welcome. Thanks!