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  1. #11
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    Add BradR97 on Thingiverse
    It finished a while ago and upon inspection it is a bit better, i measured the diameter of the filament at it was 1.8mm so I put that into Slic3r settings. I used the red ABS from PrintME3D this time. I'l post pictures tomorrow (UK time) when its a bit better lighting.

    I need to get some more filament but I am unsure whether to get ABS or PLA. I can't seem to get the PLA I have to print properly without it jamming up and making an awful clicking sound after about 2 minutes. Does anyone know how to fix this? It's a shame because I've heard PLA is "easier to print" and is more suitable for most applications but with my experience I just want to avoid it.

    Finally, Are any brands better than others? I'm looking at getting some PrimaABS or PrimaPLA rather than PrintMe3D's filament although I can't decide for the life of me whether to get bright green, orange, yellow, blue or grey received_967774903265133.jpg
    Last edited by BradR97; 07-14-2015 at 04:48 AM. Reason: Added picture

  2. #12
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    Add BradR97 on Thingiverse
    Quote Originally Posted by Feign View Post
    This is caused by the same mechanism as curling and delamination; the ABS shrinking as it cools pulls the layer inward and out of alignment with where it should be. The reason it causes it to curl upward rather than split is that the layer below is still just a little soft from having been printed so recently. If they are large pieces, try printing more slowly, if the're small, try printing a "cooling tower". It's a narrow, simple piece the same height of your main print way off on the opposite corner of the print bed to give the print head some time off of your print after each layer.

    Alternately, if you don't want to throw away a tower, make small prints in batches, which you space at the far corners of the print bed to fill the same function.

    It also looks like you are printing in a very high layer height, Overhangs generally improve far above the usual feature when you print at a finer z-axis resolution.

    Also, your problems stem from material shrinkage, and I've not used PrintME3D's filament, so it might be a problem there too.
    The settings I have at the moment are the standard for Slic3r. What do I need to adjust and to what extent? Does one need to be adjusted if another value is changed?

    Permimeters: 60mm/s
    Small perimeters: 15mm/s
    External Perimeters: 50%
    Infill: 80mm/s
    Solid Infill: 20mm/s
    Top Solid Infill: 15mm/s
    Support Material: 60mm/s
    Support Material Interface (Greyed out): 100%
    Bridges: 60mm/s
    Gap Fill: 20mm/s

    SPEED FOR NON PRINT MOVES
    Travel: 130mm/s

    MODIFIERS
    First Layer Speed: 30mm/s

    ACCELERATION CONTROL
    Perimeters (Greyed out): 0mm/s2
    Infill(Greyed out): 0mm/s2
    Bridge(Greyed out): 0mm/s2
    First Layer(Greyed out): 0mm/s2
    Default: 0mm/s2

    AUTOSPEED:
    Max Print Speed: 80mm/s
    Max Volumetric Speed: 0mm3/s
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by BradR97; 07-14-2015 at 06:08 AM. Reason: Speed settings

  3. #13
    Staff Engineer LambdaFF's Avatar
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    For PLA it always helps to have an additional fan blowing on the part to cool it further.

    The clicking sound is usually due to hot end jamming. In this case it can be due to switching from ABS (higher temp) to PLA (lower temp) if you have a little left in, it is too cool to melt and jams the hot end.

  4. #14
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    205 seems a bit cool for abs.

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