Results 21 to 29 of 29
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06-05-2015, 12:39 AM #21
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
- Location
- San Diego, CA
- Posts
- 107
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06-07-2015, 12:45 AM #22
I had no problems at all with 3 prints of Ninjaflex. Printed similar to PLA at 230 temp, 60 on the bed. Cleaned out the extruder setup as much as I could before printing though.
I agree with jfkansas that the disassemble of the extruder head is easy, though I hope they work to make it easier in the future. This seems to be a vital part of 3D printing, keeping the head working cleanly and well. It should be a simple process to remove and clean it as needed. The latest Makerbot printers have a very simple print head removal design, but expensive. Lots of work needs to be done here....
For future Ninjaflex, I got some .6mm print extruders: http://vod.ebay.com/vod/FetchOrderDe...749403038&qu=1Last edited by Nargg; 06-07-2015 at 12:52 AM.
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06-07-2015, 01:54 AM #23
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06-09-2015, 08:01 PM #24
- Join Date
- Apr 2015
- Posts
- 24
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06-10-2015, 10:40 AM #25
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06-10-2015, 12:57 PM #26
Yes it can, but some mods to the electrical need to be done. Actually after the mods the Dreamer will be better. Terminating the Thermocouple in a heated chamber is bad. The reason the thermocouple design is bad in the heated chamber is it reads a temp at the hot end, then reads temps at the board on top of the extruder. It keeps reading and thinks it needs to keep heating the extruder because it is looking for a difference in the heater block and thermocouple. Eventually the heater gets too hot and melt down commences.
Physically it will mount up, but you would need to get creator thermocouples and heaters to run directly to the board. This the proper way to do this anyway. Then the fans would need rewired because they terminate in the junction box also.
Last is the fan that mounts on the side. I provide one hole to mount the bracket. The clamping system is in the way of adding a second. A simple support bracket from the top hole to the stepper is all that would be needed.
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06-10-2015, 04:07 PM #27
- Join Date
- Apr 2015
- Posts
- 24
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06-10-2015, 11:07 PM #28
@jfkansas
Awesome post. Thanks for the info.
I'm in a tizzy about your statement on the termination at the extruder. That is one reason I bought the Dreamer, was the termination there. Seemed to me to be easier to take the extruder off and work on it. I see what you mean about the temp problem, however there is no thermocoupler on the termination board, unless you mean the connection can gain resistance due to heat? (A little EE schooling here, so I understand that much...) Though I've learned the Creator extruder is actually quite a bit more simple than the Dreamer in many way. And the Dreamer termination board is not quite what I thought it would be. Oh well. Live and learn....
I'm also thinking the side fan could just go away. I have a lot more extruder clogging issues on the left side than I do the right. So I'm thinking the heating envelope is messed up with the fan being there.
I may just get a Creator wiring bundle from FlashForge and wire it from the main board up to the new extruder setup. Time will be my enemy there, as any pause in printing projects is hardly bearable these days, if you know what I mean
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06-11-2015, 04:35 AM #29
That sounds good, if you get my extruder setup and it doesn't work out on the Dreamer I will refund if you send it back. I haven't tested it on the Dreamer, but I have looked at all the information I can find and from what I can see it will fit if you remove the box and rewire things. Ya, I'm not a fan of blowing that much air on one nozzle like that. If you are using ABS in a heated chamber you really don't need the fan either, but it can help bridging somewhat. I have run ABS almost exclusively in my Creator pro and have never had a cooling fan...
As for the thermocouple issue, this isn't my finding, it is from some very experienced guys on another board and they can probably explain it more precisely. When you terminate the pipe in the box it creates false readings because it is in a heated environment. Essentially it throws the PID settings all out of whack since it is part of the feedback loop. This isn't a problem if you are printing PLA or flex filaments in an open air printer.
http://www.sterntech.com/pdfs/thermocouples.pdf A nice little pdf on thermocouples. What we have on the dreamer is illustrated on page 4. If T2 and T3 were the same temp it isn't an issue. However T3 would be in a heated environment and T2 on the mainboard and not heated. T3 would be hotter than T2 and would throw off temp measurements. The temp would keep reading low, so the heater would engage to keep up, but it would always be low and temps would runaway and eventually start melting plastic parts.Last edited by jfkansas; 06-11-2015 at 05:26 AM.
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