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Thread: swapping to glass bed
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03-22-2015, 03:49 PM #21
use pet tape, heat bed to 60-70c and when bed cools prints just lift off.
Most prints will lift at about 30c.
Much warmer than that and the pla is still soft.
So far I've had some realy great results with this combination. Only thing that hasn't worked is a chainmail bracelet.
They always printed - sort of - on blue tape but tended to break when trying to remove.
I'll keep fiddling.
But other than that - clean, flat non-warped prints. And a roll of tape will probably last years. As so far I haven't had to touch it with a scraper.
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03-22-2015, 04:22 PM #22
- Join Date
- Dec 2014
- Posts
- 61
After a lot of messing around I find that blue tape, no heat works reliably on my Creator PRO. The bed leveling seems to be more critical.
Nol luck with the blue pad they are shipping now.
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03-23-2015, 03:51 PM #23
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
- Posts
- 4
Added a 1/8" thick high temp glass plate to our 3D printer. Found the bracket from thingivers to convert the printer to work with a glass plate. I CNC'd the bracket as the plastic one warps over time. I do about 3 good coats of hairspray letting the plate dry between sprays for getting the parts to stick. Works great with ABS and PLA, haven't had an issue with it yet and the hair spray leaves a more even coating then glue stick in my opinion. This makes it easier to level the build trey. When the part is done, I let it sit and wait for the glass to cool. the part comes off on its own when the plate cools with no force from pulling whats so ever
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04-27-2015, 10:47 AM #24
- Join Date
- Oct 2014
- Posts
- 93
so after some play in the glass bed, i realised the corner brackets wernt holding the glass still (im aware its due to the heated plate) so i redesigned them to fit tighter and also stop the z movement by introducing a 45deg bevel, this however cause its own unique issue of coliding with the hotend when it extrudes at the end of the bed before printing.
so i have now made clearence for this.
only time will tell if its any better or worse, but for now it seems alot better as there is no movement at all in the glass now. and yes they are still hot swappable as i retained the 2 rear ones in there original design.
corner_clips_preview_featured.jpg
here they are and heres the link http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:795832
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05-06-2015, 12:38 AM #25
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
- Location
- California
- Posts
- 28
We made a video detailing the install and what is needed. Check it out and let me know if you have any questions.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNqkgjplGhc
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05-06-2015, 06:59 PM #26
- Join Date
- Apr 2015
- Posts
- 24
Thanks for the video, I ordered one of your beds this morning.
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05-07-2015, 10:17 PM #27
I put 4 of the corner brackets on the bed to hold the glass even firmer in place. I also have a few glass beds, so I can easily pop one out after a print to remove the model from that glass while another print starts going. A really quick, nice method to large print projects....
Only trouble I've run into is that the corner brackets are way too close to the filament spools, and sometimes even make contact. I'm trying right now to re-do some of the filament spool holders off thingiverse so that they hold the spools a little farther away from the bed.
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05-30-2015, 12:43 PM #28
- Join Date
- Oct 2014
- Posts
- 93
ok guys, this is an interesting one.
while at work yesterday i ws thinking (i think alot at work), why not put kapton tape on glass as my only real issue was removal of print due to the fixed alu build platform, so today i wrapped one of my 4 glass platforms in kapton (i thought this stuff was redundant) and am now printing on it without any issues, parts are sticking like they should, not sure about removal yet, but as i can take the platform out now it should be easier.
on a side note i bought an action cam, so i can film things being printed now (well in a few days when it arrives) lol..
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05-30-2015, 01:06 PM #29
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05-30-2015, 01:39 PM #30
- Join Date
- Oct 2014
- Posts
- 93
well first print was perfect, abit tought to remove, but not as hard as it was, just needed to twist the part correctly (also a painters paint spatula helped).
second print is going now and alll looks good on layer 1, ill report back in an hour when its finished.
printed spot on, and came away perfectly, didnt even need the spatula this time..Last edited by Ghosty; 05-30-2015 at 02:32 PM.
Ender 3v2 poor printing quality
10-28-2024, 09:08 AM in Tips, Tricks and Tech Help