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Thread: swapping to glass bed
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02-20-2015, 12:04 PM #1
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- Oct 2014
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- 93
swapping to glass bed
ok, i see how ie i can see the 11 hex head fixings but what size are they, as a 2.0 is 2 big and a 1.5 is 2 small i wasnt aware there was anything inbetween those sizes. so could someone tell me how to remove the bolts as i want to remove the alu bed and print on removable glass beds.
on the subject of glass beds what temps do i need for the heated print bed i will only be using pla, i may use some abs to run out what i have. also i have some blu glue stick (pva i think) will that help addesion or make it worse
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02-20-2015, 12:25 PM #2
On glass with PLA, I normally go with 60C and Elmer's Purple Glue Stick. When the glass cools off, you hear a few little cricks and cracks and then a crack as the part pops loose on it's own...
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02-20-2015, 12:43 PM #3
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- Jan 2015
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- Texas, USA
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I didn't remove the aluminum bed. I went to thingiverse and printed some corner clips that holds the new glass bed on top of the built-in aluminum one. Look at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:546851 and http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:427689.
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02-20-2015, 12:56 PM #4
I didn't remove the aluminum bed either. I made somewhat similar corner clips out of some aluminum stock that I had on hand.
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02-22-2015, 10:53 AM #5
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- Dec 2014
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02-22-2015, 12:22 PM #6
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- Feb 2015
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When adding a glass plate, is it necessary to do some other settings to account for the loss of the added Z height? Or is there a sensor in the extruder module that will sense this?
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02-22-2015, 01:05 PM #7
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- Oct 2014
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the loss in z height is why i want to remove the alu bed, i have already made my own corner and side brackets that will stablise the glass and stop it from moving.
glass is 3mm same as alu bed so should not need any adjustment to work right (z axis wise) i know ill have to level it.
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02-22-2015, 01:57 PM #8
First off, you don't need a heated bed for PLA, generally. And if you heat it should only be around 40c. Second, generally you can just clip the glass on top of aluminum build plate. You will need to lower the build plate by compressing the springs or if that isn't enough you might need to shim where the switch is activated.
You can remove the aluminum though, it should just be phillips head screws. I think though you will have problems because the leveling screws would need to go through the glass. I guess you can have them drilled but I don't think glass likes to be drilled/chamfered and have screws tightened into it. It probably will break. The heat plate is a little too thin to countersink into.
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02-22-2015, 03:10 PM #9Hex3D - 3D Printing and Design http://www.hex3d.com
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02-22-2015, 03:25 PM #10
Ya, I can see that but definitely not ABS plate temps. They also say Nylon doesn't need heat, but mine works best at 80c. My experience with PLA is limited, but have ran some since I needed a color that I only had in PLA. Used Glue stick I think.
Ender 3v2 poor printing quality
10-28-2024, 09:08 AM in Tips, Tricks and Tech Help