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Thread: Print bed leveling problem ?
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11-30-2014, 09:50 AM #11
On my Powerspec 3D Pro (Flashforge Creator Pro clone), for PLA I go with this on my glass (using an Elmer's glue stick on the glass):
extruder temp - 200 (works for Microcenter's house brand and for Dremel's brand of filaments)
bed temp - 40
Everything else depends on what I'm printing.Last edited by ssayer; 11-30-2014 at 11:06 AM.
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11-30-2014, 11:12 AM #12
- Join Date
- Nov 2014
- Posts
- 35
On the levelling issue....
if if your adjustment nuts are all the way and still do not touch.....it should be possible to be adjusted in Z offsets. I have no experience in this, but physically that is the only solution other then shimming.
As for rafting...I have had rafts get stuck in certain places, completely bonded. I only use them when I absolutely have to, a tall thin parts.
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11-30-2014, 04:39 PM #13Hex3D - 3D Printing and Design http://www.hex3d.com
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12-02-2014, 04:24 PM #14
- Join Date
- Jul 2014
- Location
- EU
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- 26
I assume you got one of the Creators.
Beds on these tend to distort with temperature, so if you preheat to 120 it's good to recalibrate.
I would also advise to remove one of the springs from the print bed to get a 3 point leveling (left-back is my fav), with 4 points you'll always get tension on the bed. If the bed is warped by default, you can try to use the 4 screws to compensate the warping, though.
Dreamer comes with glass bed and 3 point bed calib by default.
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12-06-2014, 03:14 PM #15
- Join Date
- Nov 2014
- Location
- Aberystwyth
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- 19
It comes with a 3 point levelling system already
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