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10-29-2014, 02:38 AM #22
Yep, same problem!
I'll post some numbers that I've used below;
Just a 3k Ultimaker? We'll get it to print much better than that!
Yes, I understand. Perhaps I'll make some parts out of aluminum as soon as I've got a CNC router to improve it a tiny bit more.
And even though my photo doesn't show it, in the last picture there is also some of this shadowing going on, but it's almost not visible (and you can't feel it with your nail) - so with some finish (paint) it'll look very clean.
Ok. Some numbers I tested yesterday - as a disclaimer; I just lowered it by a large amount and didn't test anything time-effeciency-wise yet. NOR have I tested any preferred settings. This will all be done over the following weeks.
Not at home, so have not got exact screenshot, but the acceleration settings can be changed by going to: RepG->Machine->Onboard Preferences->Acceleration
There you will see:
I am using Sailfish 7.7 and I pressed 'Reset motherboard to factory settings' to get standard values.
Then I took the 'X acceleration rate (mm/s²)' and 'Y acceleration rate (mm/s²)' and set them to 100 (because standard is "1000" and not "1" ... man I would've figured this out sooner if us Dutch people would use international standard regarding commas and dots...)
Also changed the 'X/Y max junction jerk (mm/s)' to 8
Press 'Commit Changes'.
..
and that's it that's were the fine-tuning will start. (because this specific setting made it so that prints take about twice as long! - but you'll really see and feel what the machine is doing, which is very interesting and useful! I think that with a lowered acceleration setting you can easily up the maximum speed.)
If you want to test stuff, good luck and please post pictures and/or settings!
Qidi X Plus 3 Paper thin first...
05-27-2024, 01:15 AM in General 3D Printing Discussion