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  1. #11
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    If the hex hot end build video doesn't appear to apply to the hex hot end you received, it could be you're at the point where you need to contact MakerFarm for help. Colin has been good at responding quickly when people ask questions.

    I replayed the hex hot end build video. I don't see any discrete nut being mentioned, but mine did have the described flats on the brass nozzle and on the narrow shaft above the aluminum block. Has the hex hot end been changed? Tightening should have been done when before the hot end was used and would now have to be done with all traces of filament removed from the mating surfaces. Maybe someone has successfully tightened things with the nozzle at temperature so the filament is fluid, but I don't know that.
    Last edited by printbus; 07-14-2014 at 04:47 PM.

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  3. #13
    Super Moderator Roxy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TehStranger View Post
    My recommendation would be to go through a complete calibration cycle. I would start with trying to get the temperature right:
    This may or may not help you. But it will give you a little bit of perspective. With PLA, I typically print at about 195. If you raise the nozzle 50 or 75 mm above the bed so you have some room, you may want to try this. Set the temperature to a point where you can manually extrude some material without using a lot of force. By manually, I mean turn all the stepper motors off (big button in the upper left of PronterFace) and gently turn the extruder gear. Then, raise the temperature 10 degrees and let things stabilize. Turn the gear again by hand. Perhaps repeat this process a couple more times at 210 and 220 degrees.

    You will see and feel a couple of things. First, the filament almost starts to squirt out as the temperature gets too high for PLA. And you will feel the extruder gear requiring less force to turn as the temperature goes up. You may have a clogged up nozzle. I don't know, but most of the problems are pretty simple if you can get to root cause. It is figuring out what is wrong that is difficult.
    And then, I would check that the amount of filament extruded exactly matched reality. That print looks horrible, but I'm thinking with the temperature right and the extruder putting out the right amount of filament it will look good.

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Roxy View Post
    My recommendation would be to go through a complete calibration cycle. I would start with trying to get the temperature right:


    And then, I would check that the amount of filament extruded exactly matched reality. That print looks horrible, but I'm thinking with the temperature right and the extruder putting out the right amount of filament it will look good.
    Sorry I forgot to make a post saying I fixed it. The problem was I forgot to load the config in Slic3r... Silly me haha. I printed a fan duct and it looks amazing!

    So now the only problem is the filament leaking from the top of the heat block and I think that's my fault because I unscrewed it today and I may have damaged it while trying really really hard to tighten it :'(

    Is there anything I can use to patch it up?

    I just noticed there is some white stuff on my cogs, any idea what it could be?
    Last edited by TehStranger; 07-15-2014 at 07:49 AM.

  5. #15
    Super Moderator Roxy's Avatar
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    If you post some pictures, somebody might know.

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Roxy View Post
    If you post some pictures, somebody might know.
    I was going to but I guess I forgot, my bad. I spoke with Colin and he told me it's normal though, they are just wearing in. Here is a pic anyway if anyone wants to see it for whatever reason: https://www.dropbox.com/s/67s45985amzgl6b/DSC_0693.jpg

  7. #17
    Hey guys, I was just wondering is it safe for my dog to be breathing this PLA stuff?

  8. #18
    Technologist Tachout's Avatar
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    You know a funny thing I have the opposite problem as you. I do not sure hair spray or anything, as I am printing right on the glass, and it is all I can do to get the objects off the glass. What is the easiest way to get them to release?

  9. #19
    Technician paradiddle65's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tachout View Post
    You know a funny thing I have the opposite problem as you. I do not sure hair spray or anything, as I am printing right on the glass, and it is all I can do to get the objects off the glass. What is the easiest way to get them to release?
    Printing with a substantial brim helps hold it to the bed but also makes it easier to get a knife underneath to pry the part off.

    I actually use a thin steal plate supplied by GeckoTek that I place directly on top of the heated print bed. If a part is too hard to take off by hand, I remove the plate and flex it slightly. The part pops right off.

  10. #20
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tachout View Post
    You know a funny thing I have the opposite problem as you. I do not sure hair spray or anything, as I am printing right on the glass, and it is all I can do to get the objects off the glass. What is the easiest way to get them to release?
    Not sure whose post you're referring to, but are you using PLA? If so, are you letting the bed cool down to room temperature to remove the prints? They should come off without any problems once the bed cools down.
    Last edited by printbus; 07-18-2014 at 07:21 AM.

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