Heaven help me - I've just bought a delta kit :-)

[mjf55]

One at a time prints ok, but a pair causes a slant, weird indeed. How does it look in the slicer, layer view prior to printing? If you pass me the STL and or the gcode, I will give it a shot on my printer. ( unless its too big ).

So I took my printer apart again to get to the board to get to the bottom of my fan issue. I was able to capture a good clear photo that shows a burn mark and rework on the MOSFET driver for the fan. Hopefully, HE3D will now send a replacement board as I cannot repair it ( my skills are not up to it ).. Attached snippet of the photo.

HE3D-Bad-Component.JPG

Finishing the install of the PrintBite. Got acetone and will be heat soaking tonight.

[curious aardvark]

heat soaking ?
Just stick it to the bed, over time all the air bubbles will disappear.

I'll stick a pic of the moulds up later, it's really bizarre.

[mjf55]

Yeah, heat soak. Instructions say to heat bed to 110*c with a wet cloth on top of it for an hour. let it cool and do it again.

Funny, the hotbed could not get past 90* with that wet cloth on it. Anyway its done. Re-calibrated the flatness and levelness of the bed. First 3 point manually level ( with screws )and then 6 point ( 5 perimeter and center ) , only one point of the 6 is 0.05 mm off. Check Flow ( Extruder Multiplier) at 95% for best single line width. Probably do dimensional calibration tomorrow as on a 50 mm square, one side is 50.12 and the other is 50.5 . I guess I like to tinker.

Right now, I like Printbite. Once the printer was fairly calibrated, PLA ( @ 50* ) it sticks well and actually releases when cooled back to ~ 30*. No more chiseling the part off.

[curious aardvark]

yep - after a short while you forget all about the print sticking and releasin part of 3d printing and just get on with the 3d printing.
All the messing about with glue, freezers, tape etc - just not necessary :-)

I genuinely am not getting paid to recommend it - I just think everyone should have it to take most of the hassle out of 3d printing.

How'd you do the 6 point calibration ?

[mjf55]

OOPS 7 point. Basically followed this http://escher3d.com/pages/wizards/wizarddelta.php and this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDLbqLve128 . It is all manual as you use manual controls/ gcode to lower the head to the plate and use paper as a thickness gauge. I choose 85 mm as my print radius. Enter the results for each of the 7 points remaining z-height when you have the appropriate z height clearance. The result will suggest changes to delta rod length, delta radius, tower angle changes and end stops. I use it the first time and make suggested changes. The second time, it seems to get worse. So what I do is keep measuring the nozzle height error ( i.e. remaining z-height ) and calculate the end stop steps required to make the x,y,z tower positions equal. When you have the 3 tower points ok, usually the in-between tower points are ok and just correct the center. Delta rod length effects this. Too long of a rod causes a dip in the center ( appears that the bed has a dent in it. see http://boim.com/DeltaUtil/CalDoc/Calibration.html

Clear as mud. I can explain better if you like.

[curious aardvark]

lol I'll stick to the three point and screws until it stops working :-)

[mjf55]

lol I'll stick to the three point and screws until it stops working :-)

That how I start the calibration. 3 points and manually level using the bed screws. Then by using the endstop correction, which in Repetier is measures in steps, I can make fine tune changes of 0.0125 mm per step which is better than I can do with the screw.

[curious aardvark]

screw is infinitely adjustable.

I've got all three within 2 100ths. It's good enough.

Got some i3 parts to make for someone, interested to see if they come out okay.

[mjf55]

Post the pictures when you print them. Always interested in seeing results.

[curious aardvark]

I'm getting paranoid. Test part looks fine, but I keep trying to see the slant. lol