HICTOP DIY Prusa I3 - Finished assembling but auto home does nothing

[Roberts_Clif]

With Power disconnected.
Measure resistance across RT1 (Thermal Fuse ) or (Thermal Resistor) is should have very low resistance.
and Please do the Same for the Fuse. Did you remember to switch SW1 the 220/120 volt switch to 120volt.

The reason I ask is fuses do not normally have a black ring around the glass, unless the fuse is blown.

[ddoiron]

I dont have much experience in electronics. I am learning.
I have a soldering kit.

I found this, looks like its the right fuse.
https://www.amazon.com/T6-3AL250V-T6.../dp/B008QYY03K

I dont mind soldering to try to fix the issue.
But getting a 8$ fuse to fix a 35$ PSU...

Might be worth buying new PSU...

[Roberts_Clif]

Might be but look at all the fun you will miss out on. Plus learning how to solder.
Before you spend the money as a temp test you can jump the fuse to see if the supply still works.
I would disconnect it from the Controller first, just in case.

I would use this fuse. and buy the way Fuses should be way less than $8 each
https://www.ebay.com/p/2pcs-6-3a-Cer...d=151254574054


You could get the fuse at any appliance repair shop

[ddoiron]

Yeah, just did resistance test and a continuity test and nothing registers.
So yeah. fuse is in fact blown

[Roberts_Clif]

Yeah, just did resistance test and a continuity test and nothing registers.
So yeah. fuse is in fact blown

When you need more help Just POST. Have questions POST.

My first supply died, I jumped RT1 it was bad and replaced the Fuse. Only because I believe that having both was redundant, going on 1 year without RT1.

I also soldered wires onto a standard 7A fuse. But care must be taken not to heat the fuse too much or it can die.
Sand the ends of the fuse lightly tin the ends of the fuse tack a bare wire on both sides test too see if still good, solder into circuit.