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Thread: Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone
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02-04-2017, 06:57 AM #3931
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- Dec 2016
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- 2
I've been using borosilicate glass for a couple of weeks now. I started with Aquanet just as others have. I found it messy and sticking too well with ABS even when cooled down. I've gone back to the standard glue stick. This is working great for me. Clean up is a breeze with soap and water after 2-4 prints. BTW, I use one large binder clip with corner clips. The top "handle" of the binder clip is bent down to provide clearance from the stepper belt.
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02-04-2017, 01:37 PM #3932
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- Sep 2016
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- 80
I ordered 3/16ths, since that was recommended.
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02-04-2017, 01:55 PM #3933
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- Sep 2016
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- 80
Just this morning, while printing my 5mm spacer, I had the print fail (and the dry box get yanked across the shelf to the printer, yay!) by a filament that was...badly spooled, so that it eventually hit a point where the filament wouldn't feed because it was pinned against the spool by another thread of the filament.
A terrible explanation, but I'm betting everyone gets what I mean.
Anyway, this is probably the second or third time this has happened to me, each time with a different roll. Is there a good way to handle this, other than to suck it up and start your print again?
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02-04-2017, 10:55 PM #3934
I just don't understand how a company can spool a roll and an end get tucked under another end. It seems physically impossible with a continuous strand. I guess consider a different brand...
Some mount up a Tunnel brand filament monitor that pauses print when the filament runs out or stops moving. Toy Builder Labs has carries them.
Last edited by jfkansas; 02-05-2017 at 01:29 AM.
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02-04-2017, 11:04 PM #3935
I've heard of the chunking issue before and it has happened to one of my pieces before. I just use the other side and has been good since. You can try to call McMaster if you got it from them. Some have said they will replace the glass. I guess they can have a defect and chunk out on occasion. Try not to lift straight up when removing an object. ABS if done right will auto release when fully cooled. Don't over do it with the "Stick Um" stuff or what ever you use.
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02-04-2017, 11:43 PM #3936
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- Sep 2016
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- 80
Yeah, it's kind of mystifying to me too. I don't think I've had it happen with Hatchbox yet.
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02-05-2017, 06:16 AM #3937
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- Dec 2016
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- 2
I had a similar tangle a few days ago with Hatchbox blue ABS. Not sure how it happens with plastic extruders but I worked in a wire plant years ago and saw similar. Bottom line, poor operators not paying attention and covering up errors to maintain production!
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02-05-2017, 11:59 AM #3938
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- Sep 2016
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- 80
I am having a hell of a time here with Hatchbox wood PLA. It just doesn't seem to want to flow smoothly. I'm about to do an attempt at the max temp listed in the spool (250c) but don't have all that much hope.
Anyone have any specific S3D settings that might help?
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02-05-2017, 12:07 PM #3939
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- Jun 2016
- Location
- Oklahoma
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- 904
I use basic PLA settings. You go to 250 and you will cook the PTFE tubes and then have bigger issues!
Slow way down is one thing. I think I may have been at 1500mm/min or less. About 200 temp. I don't remember on retraction. I googled it a lot and used what seemed to make sense.
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02-07-2017, 12:28 PM #3940
- Join Date
- May 2016
- Location
- Annapolis, MD
- Posts
- 523
I use 1/4" boro from McMaster as well. Had a small chunk of the glass come out with an ABS print, but I think I may have been too rough with it when removing the print. I flipped the glass over and have intentionally been more gentle. That was about 6 months ago and I've not repeated the problem.
Printer will print perfect...
06-14-2024, 10:44 AM in Tips, Tricks and Tech Help