Results 1 to 8 of 8
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12-14-2016, 11:56 AM #1
- Join Date
- Dec 2016
- Posts
- 2
New to 3d printing, already damaged heat plate
Hi all,
Learning all about 3d printing and I've already screwed up. Had a failed print this morning that seemed to be fused to the bed. Tried to remove it by tugging on it, using a scraper, and then finally deciding that I needed more leverage, I got out a flathead screwdriver and attempted to pry the print up. That turned out to be a mistake. The flat head put some gouges into my heat plate. See picture here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9-...ew?usp=sharing
The question I have is this mostly cosmetic? Or will it affect prints in the future? I'm planning to put down a glass bed (I was previously using the blue 3m sheet that came with the flash forge). I am worried that these "dings" will cause cold spots in the glass bed causing issues. A new heated bed is $98 from flashforge and I'd like to avoid that if possible.
Any repair options for this?
Thanks!
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12-14-2016, 12:15 PM #2
- Join Date
- Jun 2016
- Location
- Oklahoma
- Posts
- 902
I can't see the pic right now but with a glass bed you will probably be ok. I would make sure that the bed is smooth though for the glass to sit on. Nothing sticking up from the dents.
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12-14-2016, 02:57 PM #3
- Join Date
- Dec 2016
- Posts
- 2
Cool. I am thinking of using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to fill in and seal the gouges. Should get everything back to right again hopefully. Will sand down the tips of the gouges to make sure nothing is sitting up.
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12-21-2016, 06:04 PM #4
- Join Date
- Apr 2016
- Posts
- 120
A few minor scratches won't make a lot of difference. Unless you are trying to print at sub 0.1mm layer heights - or looking for a mirror smooth finish to the bottom of your prints I doubt you would even notice the dints.
I have found that a butter knife works well, with a flat bladed craft knife for any really solidly bonded bits. I use Print Tak on top of the standard stainless plate and I am 500 hours and quite a few prints in without any serious issues. I find a sheet lasts about 40-80 prints - so long as I look after it. In fact, the last one was changed as it had picked up a sticky residue and everything was sticking to it! Trying to work out what it was, as I reckon I could get grease to stick to it
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12-21-2016, 09:27 PM #5
- Join Date
- Apr 2015
- Location
- Northern Ohio
- Posts
- 198
Get the glass. Make it so you can remove the plate so you don't try to get stuff unstuck while its attached to the printer. The gouges should not affect heating of the glass plate. They are cosmetic for the most part just make sure they are all lower than the rest of the bed. If not sand the burrs down.
This is why people use glass or other removable build surfaces.... yank the plate... let it cool and and save the printer the abuse of a stuck print. When you get brutal with a print like that while in the printer you mess with the bed levelers and other bendable parts.
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12-22-2016, 09:14 PM #6
- Join Date
- Dec 2016
- Posts
- 7
try the glass or buildtek sheet on the bed
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12-23-2016, 12:19 PM #7
use glass and put a sheet of printbite on top.
No more glue, no more tape, no stuck prints - ever !
Best thing I ever did. These days I don't worry if a print will stick - I know it will. And I also know that it will come off the plate, hassle free every time :-)
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12-24-2016, 11:51 AM #8
- Join Date
- Oct 2014
- Posts
- 441
Like others have said, just save yourself the trouble and move to glass beds. They really are much nicer. Get a few extras so you can just swap them out when prints are done.
Idk what Printbite is, but I use "Aquanet Extra Super Hold" hairspray on the glass, works like a charm. Like $1 for a huge bottle. Bottle is like a purple color.
You could even go the extra mile, and get glass cut at the local hardware store (maybe) to this size, and install my larger clips to have a pretty nice size printable bed. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1127638 . I use it on all my printers.
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