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  1. #1
    Engineer
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    498

    Simplift 3d ABS config

    I am having trouble finding the right settings for use with Simply 3d for 3mm ABS
    if you guys could assist i would appreciate it

    I am levelling my bed to .01mm

    .4 nozzle
    .93 extrusion multiplier
    .68 extrusion width
    1mm retraction
    .2mm layers
    80% first layer height
    130% first layer width
    50% first layer speed
    3 shells
    245 hotend temp
    110 bed temp
    60mm/s speed
    50% outline
    80% solid infill

  2. #2
    Engineer
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    752
    what you have there are typical settings except your extrusion width is a little wide for a .4 nozzle. you can do it if there is a specific reason for it on a model but for normal printing .48-.55 would be fine. maybe people could help you more if you explained the specific problems you were having. pictures help also.

  3. #3
    Engineer
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    498
    im using abs juice, but i still cant get it to properly adhere to bed

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by adamfilip View Post
    im using abs juice, but i still cant get it to properly adhere to bed

    try bumping your bed temp up to 120, also don't be afraid to try other things. it's around 5$ for a 3 pack of the glue sticks, you can also do blue painters tape, hairspray, and of course ABS Juice.

    I've gotten blue painters tape to work for ABS in combination to glue stick, Hairspray, and glue stick directly on glass. I also tried the method of acetone on the bed and rubbing with a messed up/warped part... but that didn;t work out for me. It really is just a matter of testing. Don't limit yourself, to one thing.

    I did ultimately go with glue stick because of the low odor factor, as i have kids that are nearby and it cleans up with windex or water. Hairspray has a pretty rough odor, as does acetone. More than anything for initial prints just getting something to work well is a huge confidence booster, after that things tend to start working better because if you NEED a part printed you can get it done no matter what and aren't dependent on luck and the right conditions. An enclosure also helps if your printer is in a drafty area as a slight draft of cool air blowing across a part will warp it without a moments notice.

  5. #5
    Engineer
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    752
    calibrate your z height. you could be printing your first layer too far from the bed.

  6. #6
    Engineer
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    498
    i have a feeler guage and im 100% at .1mm

  7. #7
    Engineer
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Eastern Colorado
    Posts
    536
    Be careful with your adhesive attempts though. I once tried blue painter's tape, with hair spray on it, with ABS juice on top of that, to try to stop a part from warping. The part still warped, but it held so well the warping broke the glass plate.

  8. #8
    My house is really old and drafty the best thing i ever did was build and enclosure. Its not 100% sealed and only stays around 40c-45c but is a consistent constant temp with no drafts and with clough42s hit end shroud no air from the hot end blows across the parts either and with those 2 issues handled all my prints come out looking great :-) if the slicer isnt bugged and since you use simplify3d you shouldnt have that issue ever.

  9. #9
    Engineer
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    498
    I have my printer in my laundry room that also has the furnace, a pretty small space and it's warmer than any other part of the house. I was hoping that this would help me not need an enclosure

  10. #10
    Engineer
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    498
    I'm hoping that once I get auto bed levelling setup, I will have better luck with adhesion

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