..as to the Kapton tape..the huge wide rolls seem thinner & more prone to damage than the ~1/2" rolls for some reason.
Found an interesting method to dealing with the huge rolls on another forum. (need 3 pieces of ~1/2"dowel, ~12" long)
If one can eventually manage to unroll an inch or 3 off the roll ..intact (I stick it to the kitchen counter),
One sticks a dowel (~1/2 " or whatever diameter, aluminum or wood or..) - a few inches longer than the roll - under the leading edge and roll it up a bit.
The rolled dowel should be pretty much parallel with the main roll,..now carefully draw out the length you need for the bed and a few more inches, then put another dowel underneath the tape - about 1-2" out from roll of Kapton, making sure it's "stuck well".
Add a third dowel, stuck right next to the roll,..to pull the kapton off next time you need it (trust me, it works.. and saves you a lot of frustration)
Cut the kapton between the two dowels that are next to the roll (probably need a second person to help!)
Now you should have two dowels/sticks with a sheet of kapton in between. (good for capturing bugs or..)
"I" heat the bed to ~50/60C- with the bed as low as it will go & carefully lay the Kapton on from one side to the other.
Lay it on & "squeegee" it with a piece of soft plastic or whatever..there may be bubbles, but they seem to work their way out after a few prints.
Only tried the water thing once,..it sucked..it's OK for vinyl applications/windows, but not a heated bed IMHO

As to sticking on Kapton, I always use the ABS glue (with MEK) and wipe it with MEK between prints.
Let the bed cool, drizzle on IPA, wait 30 seconds & bop the prints off with a maple stick & rubber hammer.

My 2 cents anyway..