Using a Raspberry Pi + Octopi to manage your printer

[dacb]

... Are you able to auto level the bed from OctoPi? (maybe that would get me interested :P)

In as much as you can issue a G28 X0 Y0 Z0 followed by a G29 in the Gcode terminal through the web interface. That terminal is pretty nice once you click the checkbox to suppress the M105 request/responses.

I should add that I've also begun uploading firmware via the Pi. There are two ways to do this:
1. There is a post in this thread that describes the command line setup of ino (a command line version of the Arduino IDE) and using it to upload to an Arduino board. Compilation is slow and you have to munge the .ino file to get it to work correctly with the Marlin.ino
2. Install avrdude and send the .hex file to the Pi and upload with avrdude at the command line. This is what I am doing. E.g.

• Install avrdude, on the Pi as pi@octopi:

sudo apt-get install avrdude

• Upload your hex to your Pi (pi@octopi). When you 'verify' (i.e. the check in the upper left corner which does a build without upload) the Marlin firmware in the Arduino IDE, the full path of the temporary .hex file will appear in the log at towards the end of the output. Note: for newer versions of the Arduino IDE, you will have to turn on "Show verbose logging" during compilation in the preferences. I use scp via the command line to copy that .hex file to the Pi (usually just into the root of the pi user home directory). For OS/X, Linux, and Windows there is almost certainly an sftp/scp GUI client. E.g. (example only!!!! where the hex ended up in /var/folders/nw/_0y0_37s63z_zj3kz42zw9jc0000gn/T/build6973326520497902471.tmp/Marlin.cpp.hex ):

scp /var/folders/nw/_0y0_37s63z_zj3kz42zw9jc0000gn/T/build6973326520497902471.tmp/Marlin.cpp.hex pi@octopi:

• Use avrdude to upload the .hex to the Arduino. Instead of using the Arduino IDE to upload the .hex, use the avrdude tool you installed. Behind the scenes, the Arduino IDE is using avrdude to upload the sketch. Skip the IDE an do it from the command line (for example with your firmware in the current working directory called Marlin.cpp.hex):

avrdude -p m2560 -c stk500v2 -P /dev/ttyACM0 -b 115200 -F -U flash:w:Marlin.cpp.hex

Warning: Use this at your own risk: Don't try this for your first Marlin firmware change. Make sure you can do that, at will, without problems on some other platform. That way, if this process doesn't work for you, you can reinstall the firmware with your known working method. Disclaimer end.

[gmay3]

In as much as you can issue a G28 X0 Y0 Z0 followed by a G29 in the Gcode terminal through the web interface. That terminal is pretty nice once you click the checkbox to suppress the M105 request/responses.

Sounds pretty awesome! Are you able to completely print and level remotely with a good success rate?

Agreed on the firmware changes, I definitely would take your advice to do the first one the traditional way but this sounds like a really cool feature! Thanks for the guide!

[dacb]

Sounds pretty awesome! Are you able to completely print and level remotely with a good success rate?

Yes. However, OctoPi doesn't give you anyway to remove the print from the bed!

[gmay3]

Very cool, I must say that is tempting then. Maybe I should look into auto bed leveling. Although it seems a little complex at the moment.

Yes. However, OctoPi doesn't give you anyway to remove the print from the bed!

WE HAVE THE TECHNOLOGY!
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[dacb]

Or: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:407800