One thing I did was to take an old inner tube and cut a 2"x5" strip and fold that in half so that I now have a 2"x2.5" folded piece. That size measurement isn't really critical as I just eyeballed them and just measured one so I could talk about it here. What they become are feet. They keep the printer from sliding around and dampen vibration even more. There are 6 of them under each main support position. It's simple and works very nicely.

Another mod I made was really easy because the frame is wood instead of metal. I've had a lot of issues getting the cooling fans I have to turn on and off at the right time. That's the fault of different slicers, not the frame. I drilled two holes in the frame and mounted two toggle switches that control the front and rear cooling fans I have for when I use PLA. That way I can override a fan that's blowing when I want it off. It also keeps the fans from blowing when using ABS should I find that the gcode has turned them on. I know I could just issue a kill code but it's really easy to just flip a switch. If the frames had been metal it would have been much more difficulty to drill the 1/2" holes I needed without putting a lot of force on the frame and possibly torquing everything out of shape.

So far I've pushed 4kg of filament through the printer and nothing has loosened up. Everything has stayed tight. Maybe I put enough initial torque on the frame when I built it. I did have one part break and I'm glad that I had printed new extruder parts from the very beginning. The pressure flap that pushes against the hobbed bolt cracked and my filament was not extruding. I simply swapped it out, printed a new backup and was on my way. I've had no other issues with the frame itself. All of my issues have been calibration related and that has little to do with the frame as long as things don't drift out of alignment on the frame.

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