Large Delta printer build - advice and suggestions welcome

[Trakyan]

I want a really nice quality print and a large print volume and am willing to spend the money on things that make a difference like linear rails and maybe even genuine Hiwin or equivalent as I have heard they are worth the money. Its sometimes a challenge figuring out what will really be worth spending on but there are certain things I know will help. anything that makes it run smoother basically so belts, bearings, pulleys, stepper drivers, linkages etc will not be where i will look to save.

Linear rails aren't bad, but I feel like it's a bit of a sledgehammer to swat a fly scenario. Lots of printers with round rails produce great results, even ones that are indistinguishable from those made on printers with linear rails. It's up to you, but I feel that many people go for linear rails because for the same reason they like to buy fancy cars. At the end of the day you're squirting molten plastic from a 0.4mm bore, and 0.2 is considered a good fitting tolerance, if your round rail can't hold that tolerance it's bent. The biggest practical advantage linear rails have on a 3D printer is that they can be fully supported, so on longer spans there isn't the bendy and flexible bit in the middle that can wobble under inertial forces (or sag if its not appropriated sized, but the rails on a delta are vertical so they wont sag).

This is even more so the case with idlers, pulleys and belts, the cheap stuff from china works fine and is manufactured to much higher tolerances than your printer will be outputting. Belts can sometimes cause problems from what I've heard with the rubber wearing off the belt, or not having fibre reinforcement but I've never run into these issues myself. Any difference someone claims between a chinese idler bearing and a name brand one is entirely in their head.

I just want to be smart about where i spend the money. A perfect example is the SKR board. It was like $30 CAD compared to a duet or others for $150-$300. I bought a clone E3D V6 but bought the genuine block sock and thermistor kit and hope to replace the heat break soon as well. I may stick to the 24V heatbed just to keep the costs down but may buy the 120v depending on how the budget is doing.

I don't know how much money, if any, you'll save buying a 24V bed vs line voltage, but at that size/power requirement I can virtually guarantee you'll spend more money than you saved on a 24V power supply that can handle that much current.