MakerFarm 8" i3v Prusa build by Printbus

[printbus]

For me, both the X and Y axis movements were reversed in Pronterface and Repetier-Host. I eventually got annoyed by it and swapped the motor directions (by rotating the motor plugs on RAMPS by 180 degrees) and by moving the endstop switch locations to the opposite ends of the travel. I'm pretty sure you can deal with all this in firmware changes, but I wasn't ready to jump into modifying the firmware at the time.

I've had the hex hot end fan pulling air from day one. It helps with ABS prints by reducing airflow pushing down on the print below the extruder.

[usarmyaircav]

For me, both the X and Y axis movements were reversed in Pronterface and Repetier-Host. I eventually got annoyed by it and swapped the motor directions (by rotating the motor plugs on RAMPS by 180 degrees) and by moving the endstop switch locations to the opposite ends of the travel. I'm pretty sure you can deal with all this in firmware changes, but I wasn't ready to jump into modifying the firmware at the time.

I've had the hex hot end fan pulling air from day one. It helps with ABS prints by reducing airflow pushing down on the print below the extruder.

Thanks Printbus and Gmay3. I will leave it as it is for now until it annoys me. I am pretty much planning on only doing ABS, so sounds like it should be fine.

I just need to figure out what is binding on the right side, get some more wire for the heat bed and I will be about ready to do a test print!!!!

[gmay3]

I've had the hex hot end fan pulling air from day one. It helps with ABS prints by reducing airflow pushing down on the print below the extruder.

This is good to know! I will be switching mine ASAP.

[printbus]

This is good to know! I will be switching mine ASAP.

Well, it is sort of a mixed bag. I noticed more airflow on the forward side of the heat bed with the fan reversed. On the few large ABS prints I've done, I added a piece of tape to the bottom of the fan, shaping it upwards a bit to help keep the draft off the bed.

[AbuMaia]

I've been using the split couplers from MakerFarm for a few months now with no problem, and no tape. I did find out that they have to be tightened down VERY tightly. When tightening the screw to clamp the split around the shaft, when you feel the screw bottom out, keep tightening it. Get it as tight as you can get it.

[usarmyaircav]

I've been using the split couplers from MakerFarm for a few months now with no problem, and no tape. I did find out that they have to be tightened down VERY tightly. When tightening the screw to clamp the split around the shaft, when you feel the screw bottom out, keep tightening it. Get it as tight as you can get it.

I will try that, than plain foil, and if that doesn't work, will get some of the foil tape. Anyone have a link to the 5mm couplers with set screws?

[usarmyaircav]

So I cranked down on the set screws as hard as possible. Will see how that works. Started running the wires to mount the ramps, and see that Colin made some changes to the frame design for the cable routing. Doesn't have the same cut outs as in the videos.

[AbuMaia]

Here's a link to some set-screw couplers. www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4VNAPA How did tightening your couplers work for you?

[usarmyaircav]

Here's a link to some set-screw couplers. www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4VNAPA How did tightening your couplers work for you?

I have not gotten to test it yet. I used the couplers I have and cranked them down as hard as I could. I got all the wiring done except for the power cord, which I picked up yesterday. I ended up going with what seems to be standard lamp cord, 16gage 2 wire. I will try that and if there is issue, I will get some 14x2. The only thing that I wasn't sure of, is that the 16x2 and the 14x2 are both rated for 15 amps, not sure if that makes any difference or not. Hoping I can run the power wires tonight and do some basic power on and move stuff. Soo excited, It has been a really long journey to get this far.

[printbus]

... I ended up going with what seems to be standard lamp cord, 16gage 2 wire. I will try that and if there is issue, I will get some 14x2. The only thing that I wasn't sure of, is that the 16x2 and the 14x2 are both rated for 15 amps, not sure if that makes any difference or not.

The difference in the 15-amp capacity of the 14 and 16 gauge wires is likely how they are rated. The 16-gauge is probably rated for a 90-degree C temperature, and the 14-gauge a lower temperature.