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  1. #1
    Technician
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    Aug 2017
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    95
    I've done it a couple of ways. I watched a youtube video and this guy said to spray a few heavy layers on and let it dry. That worked well, but I have fastened my glass to the bed and don't really want to be spraying inside the machine. So I came up with an alternate method to just spray a paper towel good and wet and apply by wiping to a preheated bed, like 60 degrees. Spray, wipe and repeat a couple of times. It dries pretty much instantly and you are ready to go. It seems to work well with most materials but best with ABS. When the bed cools the ABS part is totally unstuck. Amazing. PLA seems to stay stuck a bit even when it cools so sometimes takes some work to release.

    Edit: I don't really know how often to refresh the Aquanet or clean and reapply since I am pretty much printing on my original application after a couple dozen models.

    Quote Originally Posted by mjf55 View Post
    Meant to add what is your Aquanet application method, how much, how often, how do you know enough is enough. Sorry to take this thread in a slight detour.
    Last edited by raylo32; 10-01-2017 at 06:18 PM.

  2. #2
    Technologist
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    Jul 2017
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    193
    Quote Originally Posted by raylo32 View Post
    I've done it a couple of ways. I watched a youtube video and this guy said to spray a few heavy layers on and let it dry. That worked well, but I have fastened my glass to the bed and don't really want to be spraying inside the machine. So I came up with an alternate method to just spray a paper towel good and wet and apply by wiping to a preheated bed, like 60 degrees. Spray, wipe and repeat a couple of times. It dries pretty much instantly and you are ready to go. It seems to work well with most materials but best with ABS. When the bed cools the ABS part is totally unstuck. Amazing. PLA seems to stay stuck a bit even when it cools so sometimes takes some work to release.

    Edit: I don't really know how often to refresh the Aquanet or clean and reapply since I am pretty much printing on my original application after a couple dozen models.
    Thanks for that, I'll have to give it a try again.

  3. #3
    Technician
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    95
    I see a few folks have downloaded my KnP spool spacer over on Thingiverse. I have just uploaded a V2 design that includes some tabs to squeeze that make it much easier to remove. Not a huge deal or big change but that is one thing I found a little difficult with the original design.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2559323

  4. #4
    Engineer
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
    Posts
    523
    Well that's rather odd. The KNP is back down to $299. Go figure... Guess their sales dropped to zero when they bumped the price to $499.

  5. #5
    Technician
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    Aug 2017
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    I finished the Z=axis shim for adding a glass plate to the KnP, 3mm and 2mm sizes.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563761

  6. #6
    Technologist
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    Jul 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by raylo32 View Post
    I finished the Z=axis shim for adding a glass plate to the KnP, 3mm and 2mm sizes.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563761
    raylo32, it not there (yet?) did you actually publish it ( that bit me once )

  7. #7
    Technician
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    Aug 2017
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    Exactly right. It's up now.

    Quote Originally Posted by mjf55 View Post
    raylo32, it not there (yet?) did you actually publish it ( that bit me once )

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by raylo32 View Post
    I finished the Z=axis shim for adding a glass plate to the KnP, 3mm and 2mm sizes.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563761
    So, PLA will not stick to the platform as is?

  9. #9
    Technician
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
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    I doubt it but I didn't try. The build plate has kapton tape on it and I think that is supposed to be for ABS but not sure. Pull up the user manual to see what they recommend. It does discuss this. I have only used painters tape smeared with glue stick and glass with hairspray for PLA so I just went with what works for me. Others might be able to add to this....

    http://knp3d.com/manual/UM/KNP3D-UM.pdf


    Quote Originally Posted by NCFatBoy View Post
    So, PLA will not stick to the platform as is?
    Last edited by raylo32; 10-03-2017 at 05:56 PM.

  10. #10
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
    Posts
    8,816
    you know you can adjust up to at least 5mm z-height just by using the adjuster knobs ?
    ie: you simply don't need shims unless you're adding something really thick.

    Amazing how many people do things like that when it's not actually necessary.

    As far filament holding the best I've found is this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:430453
    I use it with 8mm diameter carriage bolts. I wrap some plumbers tape around the pointy end which also stops the reel sliding off.
    I've got filament spools with all sorts of different diameter holes. Everything from 10mm (flexismart 200gm roll), all taulman spools are around 12mm, on up to ones big enough to put my arm through. So the standard 30mm diameter shaft is pretty much useless.
    The long thin metal bolts work a lot better.

    On my delta I use an angled spoolholder which prevents filament tangling round the spool holder, and uses gravity to hold the spool against the machine. Would be pretty easy to make one for the replicator clone machines.

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