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06-29-2017, 06:29 AM #1
I just pick the filament off.
it goes down fairly slowly so you can pull the string off just before it hits the centre.
I always use a 2 line outline as well.
The bed takes a few minutes to heat up. But the print speed more than makes up for that :-)
For some prints it's saving me hours over the flashforge creator.
Plus with the new printbite, I find that I only need 50c for pla and 60c for petg. The flexibles don't need the bed heated at all.
Ah ha - found a bridging setting that makes it a lot more sensible. Plus added a wall down the middle to help as well.Last edited by curious aardvark; 06-29-2017 at 10:27 AM.
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07-09-2017, 03:18 PM #2
Here's a job for you. See if you can slice this with simplify3d.
Just crashes on me everytime.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1385312
It's the ideal model for the delta.
Reckon I could knock one out in about 8 hours.
Plus i have lots of the right sized ball bearings :-)
Only thing I've ever come across that crashes s3d though.
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07-09-2017, 05:37 PM #3
- Join Date
- May 2016
- Location
- Annapolis, MD
- Posts
- 523
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07-10-2017, 06:49 AM #4
yeah, cura says 10 - I reckon if it would slice it, I could fettle s3d to get it down to about 8.
Just a bunch of stuff cura won't do or I just can't find.
I remember it being a lot more user friendly a couple of years ago.
I can probably print at 150mm/s on a 0.2mm layer height.Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-10-2017 at 06:59 AM.
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07-16-2017, 11:35 AM #5
well sometimes the gods smile on you.
Cases just arrived and after unticking both y axis - text both displays and prints normally.
But when you go into tool-options it says I'm using a non-right handed coordinate system.
weirdos.
I'm more than happy with widdershins if it works :-)
yeah, that is ticked - otherwise it gets confused between which orinter you're using. Or something like that. That's always been ticked, as far as i can remember.
So basically what obviously happened was when it updated to version 3 - it automatically ticked the invert y axis box. Seems a bit bizarre to me.
But working now anyway :-)
Right off to build a system.
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07-17-2017, 11:54 AM #6
Ah the strutnuts print fine , but are too thick too fit in the struts and turn to lock.
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07-19-2017, 11:32 AM #7
Think I'll have a play with the laser tonight. See if i can't set fire to the workshop or blow something up :-)
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07-21-2017, 11:14 AM #8
found it !
they've got it listed under mainboard for the tricolor i3.
http://www.reprapmall.com/index.php?...product_id=175
$100 !
So if that's $100 by itself - how the hell are they making ANY money on the delta kit ?
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07-27-2017, 01:14 PM #9
Well it's a bit rough in places, but should work and black hides a multitude of sins. Might have to cut it a bit shorter. Not got time to mess about tonight, I'll fit it tomorrow evening. The cable fits good and snug too :-)
See my spool holder looks simple - but it will fit every spool on the market, right down to the bastard taulman 10mm ones :-)
The spools can't come off, the filament won't get trapped and it take about 20 minutes to print :-)
I actually prefer the spool holder on the right hand strut. Keeps the filament under deceht tension and leaves the underside of the extruder clear for fettling about when loading filament.Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-28-2017 at 05:31 AM.
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08-05-2017, 07:11 AM #10
okay this gets even weirder.
scrapped the sequential and used my normal one print profile via usb.
Turns out it's printing the first layer at z=269, then goes down to the bed for the rest of the print. WTF ?????????
Curious to see if the spiral prints anyway. But what the hell is going on.
I changed nothing but start height and first layer speed. Which i do a lot.
Bizarre.
Please explain to me how to...
05-17-2024, 12:15 PM in 3D Printer Parts, Filament & Materials