Heaven help me - I've just bought a delta kit :-)

[curious aardvark]

well that should have worked.
Got an extra 5.8 mm and the bed is absolutely rock solid.
Can't move it by hand with out proper serious effort and a hammer :-)
see how she goes :-)

[mjf55]

well that should have worked.
Got an extra 5.8 mm and the bed is absolutely rock solid.
Can't move it by hand with out proper serious effort and a hammer :-)
see how she goes :-)

Doesn't that take the shock absorption out of the sprints? Is that a side purpose of the springs, or are they there just to level the bed?

GOOD NEWS, Finally got my PrintBite today. Actually got 2 as Jason put an extra one in for my troubles. Cant wait to try them.

I have been working with the tech at HE3D for my inverse fan issue. It seems to have them baffled. He was going to try a firmware 'fix' but I dont want that as it will limit the firmware I can use. ( I am thinking of Marlin as it can autolevel, but not decided. ) Now he wants detailed photos of the top and bottom side of the board in the fan connector area. Doing that tonight, then relevel the bed ( tight like you did) and install PrintBite.

I have figured out how to correct the issue with our 42mm effector that I reported here http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...slicing-in-S3D . What I did was run the part thru Netfabb 2018 Premium trial ( 15 days left ) ( and I assume that the standard free netfabb 2018 would do it ) and somehow merged both parts into one, so the 'inner square' is now joined with the outer and all slicers (S3d, KISSlicer, Slic3r and Cura ) slice it correctly ( well at least without the box walls ). Do you want it to put in your package of Mods for thingiverse?

Replaced my first nozzle yesterday. Was not printing good, I think the wood filament I used (Hatchback, about 2/3 spool ) helped ware it out. Put in a ss 0.4 and so far, I like it.

Thats my updates for the last few weeks..............

[curious aardvark]

try a 0.5mm, lets you print 0.4mm layers without hassle.

With the printbite most things will need a heated bed. My standard is 50c for pla.
But some will print on a cold bed.

Flexibles don't need heated - but since I fettled the creator's extruder that's now my goto printer for flexibles, leaving alexa for all other single extrusions. I think I do use heated for colorfabbs wood filament (brilliant stuff) but pretty sure you could get away with printing it on a cold bed.
It does stick like a limpet.

And should you ever get any, under no circumstances attempt to prnt mymat nylon on printbite. Talk about a permament bond lol

[mjf55]

I think I will invest in a couple SS nozzles, adding 0.5 into the mix. I do usually use 50*c for PLA. Thanks for the heads up for the nylon, but I do not see that material in my future.

[curious aardvark]

well all I have to say is: AAAAARRRRGGGGGHHHHHHHH !!! BASTARD !

Still got weirdly slanted moulds if I do them in a pair.
Cannot find anything mechanically wrong with her.
Just printing out an ssd caddy - see how that turns out.

The other odd thing is that the moulds still work. Slot into each other and slide - no problem.
It's like one side has been shifted up slightly. But without any horizontal shift. First layer goes down clean, flat.
So how can it make a slant on the vertical axis without one on the horizontal as well ?
I have no idea, but it is.

****

ssd bracket printed perfectly, as did the two tall test prints I did when this started: a cylinder and a rectangle. So it's not necessarily an issue with the printer.
weird it is.

[mjf55]

One at a time prints ok, but a pair causes a slant, weird indeed. How does it look in the slicer, layer view prior to printing? If you pass me the STL and or the gcode, I will give it a shot on my printer. ( unless its too big ).

So I took my printer apart again to get to the board to get to the bottom of my fan issue. I was able to capture a good clear photo that shows a burn mark and rework on the MOSFET driver for the fan. Hopefully, HE3D will now send a replacement board as I cannot repair it ( my skills are not up to it ).. Attached snippet of the photo.

HE3D-Bad-Component.JPG

Finishing the install of the PrintBite. Got acetone and will be heat soaking tonight.

[curious aardvark]

heat soaking ?
Just stick it to the bed, over time all the air bubbles will disappear.

I'll stick a pic of the moulds up later, it's really bizarre.

[mjf55]

Yeah, heat soak. Instructions say to heat bed to 110*c with a wet cloth on top of it for an hour. let it cool and do it again.

Funny, the hotbed could not get past 90* with that wet cloth on it. Anyway its done. Re-calibrated the flatness and levelness of the bed. First 3 point manually level ( with screws )and then 6 point ( 5 perimeter and center ) , only one point of the 6 is 0.05 mm off. Check Flow ( Extruder Multiplier) at 95% for best single line width. Probably do dimensional calibration tomorrow as on a 50 mm square, one side is 50.12 and the other is 50.5 . I guess I like to tinker.

Right now, I like Printbite. Once the printer was fairly calibrated, PLA ( @ 50* ) it sticks well and actually releases when cooled back to ~ 30*. No more chiseling the part off.

[curious aardvark]

yep - after a short while you forget all about the print sticking and releasin part of 3d printing and just get on with the 3d printing.
All the messing about with glue, freezers, tape etc - just not necessary :-)

I genuinely am not getting paid to recommend it - I just think everyone should have it to take most of the hassle out of 3d printing.

How'd you do the 6 point calibration ?

[mjf55]

OOPS 7 point. Basically followed this http://escher3d.com/pages/wizards/wizarddelta.php and this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDLbqLve128 . It is all manual as you use manual controls/ gcode to lower the head to the plate and use paper as a thickness gauge. I choose 85 mm as my print radius. Enter the results for each of the 7 points remaining z-height when you have the appropriate z height clearance. The result will suggest changes to delta rod length, delta radius, tower angle changes and end stops. I use it the first time and make suggested changes. The second time, it seems to get worse. So what I do is keep measuring the nozzle height error ( i.e. remaining z-height ) and calculate the end stop steps required to make the x,y,z tower positions equal. When you have the 3 tower points ok, usually the in-between tower points are ok and just correct the center. Delta rod length effects this. Too long of a rod causes a dip in the center ( appears that the bed has a dent in it. see http://boim.com/DeltaUtil/CalDoc/Calibration.html

Clear as mud. I can explain better if you like.