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  1. #1
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    light for the printer - or something else ?
    There is a 'light' connector on the board.

    About to try some wood filament. - Works great :-)

    Also it's occured to me that unless you include a touch in the centre of the build plate as well as the three outside touches - how can you calculate any kind of topography map ?
    Just won't work.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-24-2017 at 11:11 AM.

  2. #2
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Not sure about the wooden one. Maybe varnish rather than colouring the cup green.
    Got a couple more printing.
    Unfortunately the brown filament has been discontinued. No idea why it's my all time best filament ever.
    And because it's semi-translucent, it really catches the light. Was reprapper tech ltd wood filament. The same stuff now just looks like chocolate. Completely different.
    My design and not shared :-)

  3. #3
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    I'll have a look - but the wire wasn't an issue when i was printing the viking helmet - thought it might be, but nope. The cable tie lift I'm using seems to do the trick.

    Curious to see this thing as the drawing made no sense to me :-)

    ***

    it's huge !
    you don't do delicate do you ? ;-)
    Can't see how it would fit with the fan duct though.

  4. #4
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    My wire doesn't come out of the y strut.
    That the best picture you got ? That could be almost anything, anything at all
    Definitely MIB - lmao

    Ah ! does it attach to the side strut and point up ?
    I can see the value of that. make it a bit smaller and out of stiff black rubber - of which I have an abundance, and we've got something. Black polyflex would also work.
    But I haven't tried the rubber on alexa yet :-)

    Also not sure if the acorns are better coloured or au natural:


    originally I was going to copper coat real acorns for selling as badges. After a number of attempts, came to the conclusion that it would be easier designing and printing an acorn instead.
    This wood filament is good stuff, they genuinely look and feel like wood. If I sanded the shine off the back, nobody would know any different - or have the slightest idea how they were made :-)
    Oh and it'll stick to cold bed as well :-)
    Weirdly the first layer goes down better at 15% than 7%. Still printing at 100mm/s.
    I'll try one at .16 and see if it's any difference to the standard 0.2.

    Sort out some packaging and should make some money from these. The original model is full acorn, earrings maybe :-)

    Now where did I put that copper filament ?
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-24-2017 at 02:17 PM.

  5. #5
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    You have to remember all three of my struts are in use.
    The right one (y?) has my filament and webcam holders
    Left has extruder and my psu is mounted on the back of the z ? one.

    So the cable bundle is just pushed into the left side top horizontal strut - I like your idea, needs refinement and possibly the addition of bolt free clipping and flexible filament :-)
    Well why stop now lol

    And how do you change filament on the balloon ?
    Not something I've ever done.

    And when you sand the shine off the back and smooth the edges - I'd defy almost anyone to know it wasn't made from wood :-)
    Which means I can sell them for more money :-)
    Helps that i live in the heart of the new english national forest for the blurb: ' Custom Made and Hand Finished in the Heart of the National Forest with Wood.'
    And not a word of that is a lie :-)
    Print up a little Curious Aardvark Designs, leaflet find some little cheap boxes and I reckon these could go for up to £10 a pop.

    Now where the hell did that copper filament go ?
    'cos: 'made in the heart of the national forest with real copper' - also sounds pretty expensive ;-)

    ***
    Damn ! you're right about the .16 layer height. Only take a few minutes longer and wow - huge improvement over 0.2.
    That one looks even more like wood than the others !
    Get sequential printing working and we're in production !

    I owe you a beer - look at this sucker:


    lol if you didn't know you would swear that was carved from actual wood. Get some light varnish and you'd never tell the difference.
    Might even see what it looks like with a dab of walnut oil.

    Now logically if .16 is better than 0.1 or at least as good, then 0.32, should be better than 0.3 !
    Let's try that.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-24-2017 at 03:42 PM.

  6. #6
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    huh, just like that :-)


    The .32 is a little worse than the 0.2 So
    we'll stick with 0.16 - found the copper filament - both samples :-)
    this should be good :-)
    And also prints on a cold bed.

    Umm, but probably better with heated bed lol
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-24-2017 at 04:17 PM.

  7. #7
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Third wire on the laser socket lets you change the power.

    So don't need that.
    So should still work with just the on/off setting and wires.
    right enough for today.

  8. #8
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    lol yeah the base plate I did was real scary at the end.
    Balloonj look fantastic - is it part of a 'scene' or you just like balloons ?

  9. #9
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    inside the balloons :-)

  10. #10
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Excellent !

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