Heaven help me - I've just bought a delta kit :-)

[curious aardvark]

S3d has all that stuff built in. So tend to use the printer control panel for that kind of stuff.
sppedwise i'm talking about overall maximum speed. I leave everything else to s3d. Never changed any of the default slow down speeds.
My mantra: if it's not broke, don't try and fix it :-)

You can switch off the updates in windows 10.
Right click start button, go to control panel, view large icons. Go to administrative, cluck services. Go down to windows update, right click, select properties, disable on startup and shutdown.

And no it's not a patch on 7 :-)

Mount wise i intend to use the metal struts Not the corner pieces. Fix the mount with 2 bolts and strutnuts - so they cannot move, and attach the springbolts to those.
Currently trying to decide how to mohnt a 350mm by 5mm (probably) bed.
will 3 5mm bolts and springd be enough. Or should i go for a 6 point mounting system. Weight wise it'll probably never have to suppirt more than a couple of kgs and the springs i have are pretty heavy duty. But when you look at the heatpad and printbite, it's going to be a seriouschunk of aluminium.
My bolts and springs are much shorter than the k200. all my electronics are roof mounted, the the springs are simply for physical bed levelling. They will be screwed up pretty tight.

Can't see how your bracket helps. The only real problem is stopping the bracket moving. If it's still only attached at one point and not locked into place, how is it an improvement ?

[mjf55]

Thanks for the W10 thing. I'll check it out. As far as my versions of the bracket, I am not sure it actually helps, but I like the fact that the spring is captured, at least on the bottom. This printer so far is a journey, so if a newer better bracket comes along, I go with it, ( at least it (the printer) reaches the level of perfection your Alexa reached. Then, like you , I will be hesitant to modify it. Again, if it ain't broke, dont mess with it )

My fans came in today, so I installed these part ducts (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2479638 ) and I did not like them. As you said, they interfere with the x and y belts, and they also don't point correctly. They point directly on the heater duct not the nozzle. Interesting experiment. I went back to your solution. I do think that your solution would be better with one of those turbo fans. Any desire to modify yours or release the design file. You design in openscad, correct?

Many pages ago you mentioned that the cooling fans were always on and asked if there was a way to turn them off. did you ever find that out?

It is weird re-reading this thread with so many posts gone.

On your BB, thats some chunk of aluminum bed. Do you know how you will heat that?
3 vs 6 mounting points, If you use 6, how to you level that. You have 3 point down pat.

Any pictures of the BB?


EDIT: I tried S3D at 60mm/s , 200/60 , 0.2mm on 0.4mm nozzle printing a benchy ( I know, but i like them and have enough to compare ). WOW. Near perfect. I can even read the printing on the stern. Only slight issue was incomplete filling of top layer on smoke stack.

I think I am a convert to S3D. Damn, its windowz based. ;-(

I do have stringy output from the extruder while it is heating up so the skirt has a trail of string while printing and can get caught anywhere. How do you combat that? retract at end of prior print and then prime on the start Gcode?

I think I'll try that next print.

Also time to get off of PLA any try PET-G