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Thread: About to try Marlin1.1.0RC4...
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04-11-2016, 12:11 PM #1
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This exact behaviour was observed by others when building with Arduino 1.0.6. The problem "magically" goes away when building with later versions of the Arduino IDE. I installed 1.6.8, and voila, printing from SD now works.
For reference: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/3229
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04-11-2016, 02:42 PM #2
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04-11-2016, 05:26 PM #3
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04-30-2016, 12:37 PM #4
Robocop - Are you printing with the bed heated? What hot end are you using, and how is the thermistor attached to it? How is the wiring to the hot end bundled and routed? I'll bet that what is happening is the cabling to the hot end is shifting as you print higher up, this causes the thermistor on the hot end to shift a bit, and the thermistor is no longer monitoring the hot end temperature properly.
Thermal runaway has nothing to do with motor temperature, driver temperature, or the temperature of your RUMBA board. Unless the new Marlin changed things, thermal runaway means either a hot end heater or the bed heater couldn't be kept at the set temperature for unusually long time. The suspicion here is that the heater is actually on constantly or close to it and there's a problem measuring the temperature correctly. If so, the heater could be in a thermal runaway situation where it is overheating. The printer shuts down as a safety precaution.
If a thermistor doesn't maintain good thermal connection to what it is measuring, it starts reading lower temperatures than it should, and the heater will have a tougher time maintaining the set temperature....Last edited by printbus; 09-24-2016 at 06:53 PM. Reason: fixed some thermal runaway inacuracies
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04-28-2016, 02:29 PM #5
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Does anyone have config files for Makerfarm I3V 12" with Marlin RC6 mesh and Rumba they can post ?
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04-28-2016, 07:24 PM #6
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I can share my current Configuration.h.
It is compatible with the RCBugFix branch of Marlin as of this writing, though you should review the diffs before applying them to your system.
It is configured for the following:
- Makerfarm I3V 12"
- RUMBA
- Hexagon HE (w/ associated thermistor)
- Standard LCD (i.e., not the "graphical"/big display)
- Manual Mesh Leveling is enabled.
- SD Card support is enabled.
It also includes optimizations based on the work of printbus:
The entire thread is worth reviewing.
Keep in mind you may need/want to tweak your slicer settings to align with the printbus changes.
I also made some minor tweaks regarding some dimensional settings, to allow for clips..., etc. I will probably revisit some of those changes in the future, but for now, they work for me.
I've attached the file..., hopefully it arrives intact.
Good luck! -- John
Configuration.h
Last edited by lakester; 04-28-2016 at 07:34 PM.
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04-28-2016, 09:57 PM #7
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Does anything need to be changed in config.adv ? How does mesh work with the fixed Z endstop on the i3v? Im having trouble understanding that. With the robo the xaxis lifts of the z rods which triggers the endstops so it basically z homes below the bed .With the makerfarm the fixed z endstop would be above the bed so how do you do the leveling process?
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04-28-2016, 10:38 PM #8
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I don't recall changing anything in config.adv.
The process is to first go through the regular mechanical leveling, setting the z-stop in the xy home position, and making sure that the other three corners are set to the same gap.
From that point, you go through the manual mesh leveling process, which allows for both positive and negative z-corrections..., wherein corrected/effective z can actually dip below the end-stop limited Z (but only by a very limited amount). So..., the bed has to be mechanically level within this z tolerance, and then you use mesh leveling.
Don't forget to store results in EEPROM when done.
FWIW, the steps I follow after burning new firmware are:
- from the control panel...
- reset to "factory" config (these are the settings you set in Configuration.h)
- store to EEPROM
- do manual mesh leveling.
- store to EEPROM
It's not clear to me what the compatibility is in EEPROM from build to build, so I go with better safe than sorry and redo it whenever I update the firmware.
Also, FWIW..., I have to do the full mechanical leveling very rarely these days, so maybe do the mesh leveling every couple of weeks or so. I have a fairly consistent heating "protocol", so things settle down pretty repeatably. Will be switching to a metal Y-plate when I have some tinkering time, which I assume will improve stability over time even further.
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04-28-2016, 08:03 PM #9
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Thanks . I apriciate it. I should be able to make any needed changes from here. My slicer is simplify3d
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04-30-2016, 02:01 PM #10
Here are two threads that talk about having thermal runaway problems on a MakerFarm printer -
http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...-ambient-temps - Here the problem was a bit too much print cooling fan airflow in at a cold ambient temperature tripping the hot end thermal runaway.
http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?10166-Thermal-Runaway-Protection-(Dual-Extruders) - Here the problem was the heated bed, but the OP didn't come back and say what he did to fix the problem. Like here, the thermal runaway problem showed up as soon as he enabled detection for it.
Please explain to me how to...
05-17-2024, 12:15 PM in 3D Printer Parts, Filament & Materials