Anyone used Printbite surface ?

[curious aardvark]

A quick wipe every couple of months with a little acetone on kitchen paper is all i do.

why would you sand it ?

[jeffmorris]

Before I sanded the surface, most prints failed because of layers lifting off the surface. My printer has dual extruders. I didn't know that I can use acetone to clean the surface.

[curious aardvark]

yes you can - I always have.

what do dual extruders have to do with it ?

[jeffmorris]

I think that the extruder not being used try to lift layers off the surface. I know that some of the new 3D printers have two extruders that move independently of each other.

[jeffmorris]

I tried cleaning PrintBite surface with acetone and it worked.

[curious aardvark]

ah right, yes if your nozzles aren't perfectly level they will cause problems. In the end I removed the right nozzle from my flashforge creator. Never used it. All that side has now is a printed stepper motor shape - you ned it to engage the endstop :-)

[R15]

I know the thread was revived after a couple years but just wanted to add some important info for others who get here from google.

There's a lot of misinformation in here.

Most notable fixes: don't use alcohol on printbite and increase bed temps slightly.

PrintBite has helpful instructions on their site:
https://flex3drive.com/wp-content/up...structions.pdf

[curious aardvark]

name the misinformation.
I've been a printbite user right from day one.
I have all three types.

Everything here is based on experience and extreme printbite usage.

I've only recommended using a quick wipe with acetone.

So unless you can specifically state the 'lot of misinformation' I suggest you change your post before I do.

[R15]

I see I've ruffled some feathers... are you always so hostile?

Wasn't attacking you or anyone else. Reading the thread again you seem to value your personal experience over what F3D or anyone else knows. The link I provided is a good starting point if you're curious though.


Since you asked here's some specific examples:

The front bead should be pretty much just a flat strip

Not always necessary, especially with printbite and is recommended to not do that as it makes removal harder (strange you had removal issues). Even on other print surfaces like PEI this gives too much adhesion and moving parts will be welded together.

The bed heat needs to be at least 60c for pla and most other filaments - never go lower

False - some filaments need lower or even no heat on printbite.

print your pla at least at 205 - 210-215 is usually better

False - different brands/blends need different temps. I have a plain pla with MAX temp of 210 for example and prints great under 200.

I tend to go back to 10% for the pet-g, whereas I can run the pla at 30% for the first layer.

Printers have wildly different print speeds, a percentage is meaningless. F3D has a great reference sheet with specific speeds as a good starting point for testing.

And here's you (not) recommending only acetone twice:

Alcohol would work just as well I guess

if it stays shiny - it's fine to use on the rest.

Some of this is admittedly nit-picky but it's good to remember that people (especially those new to 3d printing) will take what you say quite literally.

[curious aardvark]

none of that is untrue.
It might not be true for every one and every printer - but it is all true.
What the printbite guide says is also not strictly true for every occasion.
It claims polycarbonate sticks to printbite - it might, but you'd need an industrial machine with an enclosed and heated print volume. It definitely doesn't any other way.
Believe me I've tried.

This thread is a sort of record of my printbite experience and what I've done to get it to work.
You will find that for certain material - mainly flexibles, I do say no point in heating.

Removal problems ? Never had those with printbite, well unless you include mymat nylon. That's like gorilla glueing it. But even after using a metal chisel and hammer to eventually get it off - the printbite was untouched.
Manufacturers always give the most positive account of their products they can, while not necessarily stating the exact circumstances it's based on.
So all the materials claimed on the printbite website, won't necessarily stick to the sheet in your machine.
All I've done is list what's worked for me over the years and what hasn't.
I've communicated with jason - the guy who developed it and we're on good terms.

I stand by the statement that you need a level of smoosh to get a perfect print. I've used more filament brands and types than you can shake a pair of 3d printed maraccas at. I have the original printbite which I used extensively.
The 2nd generation is on my delta - which is my current every day printer - it needs less smoosh, but even with the best pla I've used it still needs some.

And I have the 3rd generation - thinner and with custom graphics - for the printer I'm currently building.
I do know what I'm talking about where printbite every day use is concerned. On my printers - and that's what I've detailed.
I can't say how it works on yours, but what I put here is what I've done and what works for me.
For the materials and circumstances, it is all true.

Hostile ? To people who appear out of nowhere and call me a liar - damn right.

Choose your words more carefully in future.