Anyone used Printbite surface ?

[jeffmorris]

Can I use glue sticks on Printbite?

[curious aardvark]

yes - but why ?
anything that sticks to gluestick will naturally stick to printbite.

The thing about printbite is that when it is hot most filaments will stick really well to it, when it cools down parts become loose.
If - like me - you are impatient then wait a few minutes and hit the part with a plastic hammer and it knocks it loose.
The other thing about printbite is that it is an extremely tough and hard surface that is perfectly smooth. Giving the base of the printer item a really smooth shiny finish.
Using gluestick on it will not only ruin the finish, but actually reduce it's usefullness by stopping the release of models when it's cooled down and also reducing the grip when it's hot.

Check my thread for things you don't use with printbite - so far just got a few. If you use a flexible rubber fliament you might - conceivably - use a very light layer of pva to stop it sticking too much to the printbite, but you'd be better off just switching to flexible pla - which works fine without pva.

The only thing I would absolutely not use on printbite is Mymat nylon. It end up with an almost permament weld. That said it works great on pva and is the only nylon filamet I've tried that does not warp and will print really well without a heated print volume.
It's just not compatitble with printbite.

[jeffmorris]

I thought that ESUN PETG doesn't stick well to Printbite. The first layer and especially supports don't stick well to Printbite. I set the heated bed temperature to 85 degrees. the parts come off Printbite very easily without using any force. I think that the bed leveling may be off.

[ssayer]

ESUN PETG sticks perfectly on clean glass that's at 80c. I've never needed anything else special to get it to stick.

[curious aardvark]

Esun Petg sticks great at 60c.
In fact I only use 60c for everything.
you do need a tighter calibration with the Petg than with pla
but other than that it works brilliantly. The esun Petg in particularly sticks really well and doesn't seem to warp at all

[Talon 3D]

I just ran a test print of two RPi camera ribbon clips with the ESun PeTG and it worked really well. I need to get some PrintBite though.
They cut and ship to size so that rules. Msg is being sent to them in a min for it.

Esun Petg sticks great at 60c.
In fact I only use 60c for everything.
you do need a tighter calibration with the Petg than with pla
but other than that it works brilliantly. The esun Petg in particularly sticks really well and doesn't seem to warp at all

[jeffmorris]

How should I clean the Printbite surface? I leveled the bed a few times and it appeared to work better. Curious Aardvark, what machine and slicer do you have?

[curious aardvark]

How should I clean the Printbite surface? I leveled the bed a few times and it appeared to work better. Curious Aardvark, what machine and slicer do you have?

The printbite is installed on abog standard (well slight modification) flashforge creator x. My slicer of choice if simplify3d - for dual material and tpu prints I also have a klick-n-print machine. Essentially an unenclosed crerator pro. I still use pva stick on that and use it mostly for flexible prints and dual extrusion.
At some point if i do more printing I'll set it up with a removeable printbite bed.

[curious aardvark]

like I said it's cheaper to buy an oversized piece and cut it yourself into two beds. I need to work out soe sort of temporary clip system for the knp.
Cut is the wrong word.
You just score it with a knife and then snap it - working in from the edges to the centre.

[Talon 3D]

Agreed and they are cutting two for me for the QIDI.

like I said it's cheaper to buy an oversized piece and cut it yourself into two beds. I need to work out soe sort of temporary clip system for the knp.
Cut is the wrong word.
You just score it with a knife and then snap it - working in from the edges to the centre.