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  1. #1
    Wow that is nice work. I like the setup.
    Great work.

    Quote Originally Posted by wirlybird View Post
    OK!! The dry box project is now functional. The first pic is the overall setup - pardon the mess in the background. The upper filament flanges where a first design where the box was going to be below the printer and that is why they are angled up. For now it will sit behind the printer hence the lower flanges. Five rolls can be loaded at once each on its own roller base making changes easier.
    The feed tubes go into the manifold on the back of the printer. The manifold has plugs for the filament that is not in use. The filament goes up through a small hole in the plug which allows you to grab the one you want and feed it from there rather than opening the dry box.


    [IMG][/IMG]


    A closer look at the manifold and the plugs. Also my first attempt at knurling.

    The tubes go in between and further out from the back of the two spools on the back of the printer allowing easy access to throw on a roll for a quick (in 3D printing terms) print.


    [IMG][/IMG]


    ON the inside we have dual rechargeable desiccant packs and a temp/humidity sensor in the middle.

    Each roll is on its own roller base so change out is easy and quick. There is also storage space behind the active rolls.



    [IMG][/IMG]


    Here is a close up of how the filament holder/plug works. I am guessing not much humidity will get past this.


    [IMG][/IMG]

  2. #2
    Excellent work. I think I might try this out as I learn more about 3D printing.


    Quote Originally Posted by wirlybird View Post
    OK!! The dry box project is now functional. The first pic is the overall setup - pardon the mess in the background. The upper filament flanges where a first design where the box was going to be below the printer and that is why they are angled up. For now it will sit behind the printer hence the lower flanges. Five rolls can be loaded at once each on its own roller base making changes easier.
    The feed tubes go into the manifold on the back of the printer. The manifold has plugs for the filament that is not in use. The filament goes up through a small hole in the plug which allows you to grab the one you want and feed it from there rather than opening the dry box.


    [IMG][/IMG]


    A closer look at the manifold and the plugs. Also my first attempt at knurling.

    The tubes go in between and further out from the back of the two spools on the back of the printer allowing easy access to throw on a roll for a quick (in 3D printing terms) print.


    [IMG][/IMG]


    ON the inside we have dual rechargeable desiccant packs and a temp/humidity sensor in the middle.

    Each roll is on its own roller base so change out is easy and quick. There is also storage space behind the active rolls.



    [IMG][/IMG]


    Here is a close up of how the filament holder/plug works. I am guessing not much humidity will get past this.


    [IMG][/IMG]

  3. #3
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    Has anyone done an extruder calibration? Measure 100mm of filament and see if it extrudes 100mm? S3D suggested this due to an issue I was having so just wanted opinion from the group on this.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by wirlybird View Post
    Has anyone done an extruder calibration? Measure 100mm of filament and see if it extrudes 100mm? S3D suggested this due to an issue I was having so just wanted opinion from the group on this.
    That is for marlin software or repitier I think. 100mm of filament will extruded way more than 100 mm of filament.

    Best filament calibration is a 20x20x10 100% infill cube. Follow sailfish recommendations for sailfish software.

    In S3d a good starting point for extrusion volume is 90%.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    That is for marlin software or repitier I think. 100mm of filament will extruded way more than 100 mm of filament.

    Best filament calibration is a 20x20x10 100% infill cube. Follow sailfish recommendations for sailfish software.

    In S3d a good starting point for extrusion volume is 90%.

    Ok, thanks. You may have told me that stepper calibration or this test is not needed on the QIDI/Sailfish.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by wirlybird View Post
    Ok, thanks. You may have told me that stepper calibration or this test is not needed on the QIDI/Sailfish.
    Calibration is arbitrary for the most part as a lot of other settings can affect extrusion volume. It is better to go by print quality and make adjustments from there.

  7. #7
    What nozzles do you guys recommend when it is time to replace them?
    I have seen a few in here with the Swiss Micro looked great but expensive.
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  8. #8
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    ABS and hairspray has never worked for me especially on large flat bottom parts. Small parts its ok. I've tried all the tricks, several coats, let it build up etc.

    Lately I've been scraping bed clean with a single edge razor window scraper. Then wiping the glass with AquaNet on a paper towel. Then heating bed to 70c and applying a thin coat of abs slurry. I have some white and clear mixed up and I keep in small mason jars. Also have some colors mixed up if needed. Once the bed fully cools the part generally just lays there un stuck to the glass and you just lift it off.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    ABS and hairspray has never worked for me especially on large flat bottom parts. Small parts its ok. I've tried all the tricks, several coats, let it build up etc.

    Lately I've been scraping bed clean with a single edge razor window scraper. Then wiping the glass with AquaNet on a paper towel. Then heating bed to 70c and applying a thin coat of abs slurry. I have some white and clear mixed up and I keep in small mason jars. Also have some colors mixed up if needed. Once the bed fully cools the part generally just lays there un stuck to the glass and you just lift it off.
    I've been working on printing JFkansas' extruder mechanism in ABS. This is my first tight tolerance experience with ABS. Had some serious over extrusion issues and have dropped the extrusion multiplier from 1.00 to 0.80. Switched to using ABS slurry, which adheres wonderfully with ABS (big surprise...not) but does not adhere so perfectly with the glass bed. I have found that for some prints I must turn on the blower to prevent thinner "shelves" from turning upward into the extruder.

    PLA was just easy, everything worked right off. ABS has been a fight every step of the way.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    ABS and hairspray has never worked for me especially on large flat bottom parts. Small parts its ok. I've tried all the tricks, several coats, let it build up etc.

    Lately I've been scraping bed clean with a single edge razor window scraper. Then wiping the glass with AquaNet on a paper towel. Then heating bed to 70c and applying a thin coat of abs slurry. I have some white and clear mixed up and I keep in small mason jars. Also have some colors mixed up if needed. Once the bed fully cools the part generally just lays there un stuck to the glass and you just lift it off.

    How do you usually apply the ABS slurry? I've been wiping it on with a paper towel.

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