Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[jfkansas]

That looks to me like a classic case of under extrusion. Up the flow rate a smidge which is sometimes called an extrusion multiplier.

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/p...enough-plastic

No you can't over extrude to fill in gaps where there is no tool paths. That is not how 3d print works. Fix the tool paths... Other parts of the print already show signs of over extrusion.

A 3d extruder isn't a caulk gun...

[DarkAlchemist]

Hey folks - So, I'm looking at purchasing my first 3D printer. I've been looking through this thread and you all seem pretty happy with the QIDI Tech 1. I'm trying to decide between that at $700 from amazon and the Makerbot Replicator 2 at $800 from amazon. The Replicator 2 is single nozzle, PLA-only and it doesn't have a heated plate. On the up side the Makerbot is name brand, USA company, easy to reach tech support via email or phone. Any thoughts? I'm really bewildered. Again, I'm VERY new to 3D printing.

Thanks!
Todd

Stay away from Makerbot who is probably going to go bust by the end of the year. They have already moved all production to China, reduced the price of the VERY ancient Rep 2 and is selling, globally, 8 printers a day. Don't fall for that Rep 2 trap as I think you will like the Qidi very much and their support is pretty awesome so I have been told.

[jfkansas]

Apparently you didn't read the link. Your fix is asinine to say the least by telling him to add more infill. WTH? His walls look precisely like those in the link and yes, some looks like over extruding but those walls being separated like that has nothing, absolutely nothing, to do with infill/overlap.

3d printing/extruding is precisely like a caulk gun (more like a hot glue gun but the same principle) when you get right down to it.

He may not have the right diameter set in either as I read the filament that comes with the printer isn't all that spectacular. In S3D it is a simple matter to dial in the filament diameter but if that filament strays too far it will over and under extrude as we all know. First thing anyone should do is measure the filament in 3 spots for 100cm and do an average and pop that number into the diameter setting. Once that is done then go from there.

Bull shit, the walls look just fine. 3d is nothing like a caulk gun. You never pump more and more plastic into a space like a caulk gun. You melt and smash a precise amount of plastic along a tool path. That's it. If there are gaps you have to fix the tool paths.

[jfkansas]

LOL to you and your primitive understanding. A caulk gun extrudes based on how much pressure you apply. Hmmmm, extruder extrudes based on how much pressure is applied. Hmmmm.

I suggest you zoom in on the walls of both pics and you will see the same in both of them. Look at the separation around the letters (the shells which is the same as walls) and they are separated the same in both pics. When I got the same freaking issue I was under extruding by about 10% so I set Marlin's E steps where it should have been and all gone.

No, an extruder pushes more plastic when it moves faster, and less when it moves slower. An extruder never stops to fill in an area, like a caulk gun. The print head moves from current position, to next, and extrudes a calculated amount of plastic when moving. Then does it again and again and again.

[jfkansas]

Nozzle size has nothing to do with it unless the nozzle is variable size while extruding. Of which I've never seen. Maybe they have those things in the Clay 3d world, but that isn't what we are talking about. Your making my head hurt, just like when I hear Trump talk. lol

[jfkansas]

No, nozzle size is constant. It is part of the calculation, but it isn't a variable like print head speed and extruder stepper speeds are.

[jfkansas]

Ah much better with his posts ignored. No value listening to him any more. Can only imagine when he gets the printer... Ug.

[DarkAlchemist]

Ah much better with his posts ignored. No value listening to him any more. Can only imagine when he gets the printer... Ug.

How do I ignore on here? Oh, it is Ugh and not Ug. I knew I smelt a BS artist when I first saw your posts and either you are one or completely ignorant but in either case I will find out how to ignore your posts on here if there is a way.

Found it and good bye to you - http://3dprintboard.com/profile.php?do=ignorelist

I apologize to the rest of you but he came off on me and I will attack back especially when I know something like the orifice size of a nozzle affects pressure and how much plastic can come out, or any material for that fact.

Back to the original post that started this fiasco I will simply say if you were using Marlin, instead of Sailfish, to do a test of 100mm of filament and extrude it and see if 100mm is extruded exactly (mid air not printing) and if not you adjust your e-steps. On Sailfish it is similarly done I do believe. Once you know that is perfect then go from there.

[electrichammer]

After a few test cubes I am pretty happy with it.

Did a test print of the 3D Benchy though there are a few issues with it that you all may be able to guide me to fix.

Mainly top layers seem too thin (see picture).

IMG_2562.jpg
Settings are as follows.

Printed setting in Simplify3D
High quality
PLA
Extruder layer 1 at 230 degress
layer 2 at 240 degrees
No heated bed

Capture.jpg

Capture2.jpg

Any advice on how to improve this would be greatly appreciated

[DarkAlchemist]

After a few test cubes I am pretty happy with it.

Did a test print of the 3D Benchy though there are a few issues with it that you all may be able to guide me to fix.

Mainly top layers seem too thin (see picture).

IMG_2562.jpg
Settings are as follows.

Printed setting in Simplify3D
High quality
PLA
Extruder layer 1 at 230 degress
layer 2 at 240 degrees
No heated bed

Capture.jpg

Capture2.jpg

Any advice on how to improve this would be greatly appreciated

WOW, way too hot for PLA. I haven't even seen ABS that I have purchased at 230c-240c. Try and lower those temps and repeat that test unless this PLA is an oddity demanding those sorts of temps. Most PLA I have used want around 200c (give or take 10c either way).